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THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, SATURDAY, MARCH 28, 1949.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
OUTSTANDING DESIGNS
Evening dress of copper slipper satin with apron skirt, by Victor Stlebel.
Clothes Grow When
Children
IT
WRS
Grow
By MELITA SPRAGGS
It is less than a
London.
year since four-year-old Mrs Marris started her business who of designing children's clothes daughter Karen inspired her mother to in Holbein Place, London.
which
Already "Roundabout" clothes "clothes design
have been ordered by various grow."
London houses and should be in Kaye Mrs
Hildyard-
the shops in spring patterns Marris, her mother, was n She textile designer. loved beautiful materials. And as a commerical artist she had a passion for good design.
But her daughter Karen grew out of clothes so fast it was hardly worth making them in expensive materials. Mrs Marris got to think- ing and measuring.
of chil Most designers
allow for dren's clothes bems to be-let-down. If the clothes cannot be let
soon.
IN
THE LONDON COLLECTIONS
ii n-d
casy.
The de-
anything but sigruara, for. some unknown
neckline to the hem, velling the shape of the body, and giving flowing vs Impression of a train. The gown itself is in the true romantic style-full-skirted. deep decollete, and softly folded for for his chu neckline.
Matti Juurneyed ino he had
Inspiration-to the French West vivid colourings Indies and the so beloved by the Creoles.
dress made shows an evening
handkerchief cotton.
TOW that the ban on By JOAN ERSKINE at the back falls from the
photographs sketches of the cou- To plek one outstanding ture collections (London's model from each collection is "Big Ten") has been lifted, it is possible to show you
Spring. some of the outstanding on, had a difficult task this
One fold designs seen a month ago. never before experienced
difficulty in designing, collec• Having been
Wik fold repeatedly tlon, that he glad it was that the general Une was simple,
and he was looking for sophisticated, and easy to war, hopefully to the autumn entirely of red-bordered Roosen most women immediately turned always an enjoyable time for a their attention eveningwards, couturier. and decided that if their day dresses were to be simple, their dinner gowns and ball dresses
would have to make up for it.
So with this in mind, I picked two of Victor Stiebel's most attractive creations to show you.
The first is an evening dress of copper slipper satin with on enormous opron skirt-a feature he has emphasised this season. The plunging
neckline new, and daring. The sleeves interesting-they are bandaged to show bure elbows, and tie in a bow just under- neath. Stiebel, who uses flowers invishly, finished his model with a spray of water-green llocs at tive waist.
This dress should appeal to the woman who wants il romantle, but not old-fashioned.
Severely Plain
THE second is a severely plain
black chilton dinner dress – always a reliable stand-by. Its main interest les in the short covering coat. This is made of white plque (enjoying a great wave QI popularity at the moment) and is cut with a deep yoke in the back from which Juls the short flared skirt The slcoves дго bracelet ragion length
women and
群
The older woman will Ko a long way to find a more flatter- Ing evening ensemble. She is by Peter Russell, catered for broko who
right away from the ume-honoured tradition that older
should dress quietly
produced brand-new colour to prove it. Mrs Marris is working on "Gardenia Green" he calls it, ideas for her autumn collection. and the material is stiff rustling front, long tight This she hopen will include new satin poult. Style is simpic-
fly-button designs for the junior winter sleeves, very full skirt, and the coat. Surely here is a sphere only ornamentation Is paillotte where life-extending possibili- | embroidery. ties will be welcomed heartily by mothers of young school children.
ward
However, In spite of this, there were some interesting ex- periments to be seen.
Victor Stiebel tried out the "Fragonard" back In a brown
chiffon evening dress. Fullness kit
Black
dinner. chiffon dress, with white pique short coat, also by Victor Stiebel.
Mrs Marris designs cluthes Before Your Home Permanent
for children up to 12 years. They are not necessarily all of the full "growing" type though most of them allow generous hems and turnings.
out around waists, or Finishing Done By Hand
chests, and in other places where children grow, their life is still too short, Mrs She did Marris concluded.
measuring on a a lot of lot of children and worked
Ág sums. out many
the "Roundabout" result, clothes she designs now grow in the places where children grow.
Marris
Serve Four Age Groups They are worked out for four age groups; from two to six years, three to seven years, four to eight years, und five to nine years. Mrs is patenting her and In Britain ideas America.
At four years old, Karen suit made in crisp, pink candy-striped pique. Its longevity is camouflaged with skilfully concealed tucks, in back overlap, and in generous middle seams which expand both ways.
wears
Kun A
Two years pass. Karen la six. In any ordinary suit, her mother would bo wrestling with "the In. back gap."
the "Round- about sult she merely movés the buttons and loops to a new position
ready-finished, ready-faced placket.
In a sult which has straps, pinafore style, there are two or three Geta
and of buttons
on a
bulionholes for easy lengthen
The clothes are. finished off by hand and many of the buster sulls and children's dresses are hand-embroidered or smocked.
For boys. Mrs Morris designs "bobble" suit with blb-front
pants and knee-length
with turnups similar in style to those worn by American boys. For 'Blster Sue the same design has pleated skirt inslead of This serves a dual purpose as it can be detached and worn separately with a tuck-in blouse when the top is outgrown.
♫
trousers
There are gay clothes, too, for bedtime. A girl's nightdress, for instance, is made in pink, red, yellow,
green candy strives and has puffed sleever and frilling round the yoke and neck.
or
Since she left art school, Mrs Marris has been keen to spread the doctrine of good design. Wir she gave During the handicraft classes in the Army Education Service.
to
Courtesy RKO Radlo Pictures Before having a permanent, hair should be conditioned with hot mineral oil, says Screen Star Jeff Donnell.
By HELEN FOLLETT
He
those
"Now the IS a hat- other models are only fit for the wasta basket."
STARS LIKE
HOSTESS
PYJAMAS
com-
Blanca Mosca Introduces the Farazio dresses and conts based on the cass and grace of native
The Moroccan dress. was oddly mediseval, effect oneer created by the sleeveless bodice,
ASK the girls in Hollywood tho in draped folds, and
to name the most slashed which was at back, front, and sides from fortable piece of apparel in the hem to the knees. The ef- their wardrobes, and nine fect was heightened, too, by the times out of ten they'll cast cholce of materials--one dress
their votes for slacks. Slacks comfortable as an are as Old Morris chair. But when a young damsel wants blend of smart sophistica-
in particular was in volle, gold- edged, over 黯 rich brocade under skirt.
Travel Cloak
IGBY Morton shows a plaid- tion and comfort in her out- DIGBY
Isced travel coat in yellow fit, slacks fall short of. fill. twood. It is full-length at thing the bill. To achieve the back, and rises to three-quarter casual simplicity on length in front
home front, Hollywood's
Norman Hartnell concentrates best-dressed
beauties are
on the truly romantic line, and staging a revival of an old- the embroideries for which his time favourite the hostess
name is famous. However, he deviated in onc
elaboratu pyjamas.
cocktail dress which he calls "Black Diamond." It has re- and a haller movable sleeves, collar of grey mesh diamonds,
Peter Hussall-carefully con- AG he told us veying sanity,
produced some
Barbara Stanwyck has added
a pair of dark green velveteen bostess pyjamas to her wardrobe. The trousers are slim
with some emphasis, neverthe-at the hips and quite full at the unusual hemline, With them, Babs metallic tennis a lemon yellow jersey
Jess
coat-frocks
silk surah.
in heavy
with unexpected sweater and a flashing bolt of
open low-walsted backs.
The
effect of seeing a large portion yellow, green and tangerine
of bare back, in a long-sleeved twisted rope.
"town" dress is staged
Hardy
Arnles.
with
pleats. Most unusual suit (in an unusual collection) was a
Yorkshire dark grey
-with double flap pockets on the
fated
was jacket. Interest in the skirt which was straight, where knife pleats fell from a V yoke in the skirt at the left side only.
Tulip Effect
One-pieco Outfit
When Gall Russell entertained worsted the cost and crew of "Night Has at her Eyes," A Thousand Hollywood home, she WOND trim one-piece pyjama outfit. It was styled of scarlet wool jersey and accented stencilled leopard. Gall carried out the leopard theme with a pair of matching scuffs.
HARLES Creed, when
CHAR
with o
belt of
we Of course, ony and every trend that Invades the
fashion world
I managed to stop loking at his new brilliantly coloured top coats, Hollywood
is
and original military-style suits, slated for an introduction to the in belge movie-going public sooner or
won with a dinner dress
grosgrain. draped effect was achieved
later. Lizabeth
Lo
to
Scott and
wahonda Fleming are the style-
in
wcar their
version
who will the material tightly from ankle wise damsels
Pyjamas a split at the hostess to waist with bottom to allow the model to forthcoming films. Lizabeth will
is-caused the material display the
of walk!This c
summer fold all the
way up, and cach the new fashion in her next film,
"Biller fold was held at the side by a
The outfit Victory." has selected features button. Elect-very tubular, the
with plunging extremely elegant. Other de binck linen top with tails-long slarves, plunging neckline and trousers of black neckline, upstanding smali linen print. Rhonda gives Bob
pocket?
collworth dressed up
1
a glimpse of the new oulat a black silk for the when she wears He shown a sult in Jersey blouse with pink and cream grosgrain with a scarlet black brocade trousers in scenes and black leaf design. (Gros in the comedian's next Blm,
afternoon.
grain is immensely popular this "East Does It."
with the now
season-ble cotton). Three-
quarter cuffed sleeves, flared
Basque
And enormous collar
were the detalls.
Molyneux's collection, too, emphasised femininity. On suits he used fluting and flouncing for sleeves, pockets, and basques. Most youthful was a full-skirted summer dress with scalloped Bounces,
Flowers For
Curls
RE your curls all wom out
A from too many haircuts?
WO-
Wear flowers in their place, suggests muiliner Walter Fiorell His idea that those short hair- cuts are going to leave men's
healls looking "all bristlyn
may be
to open his but challenge
solution
It's a gay and straw, The farther wig
rotary move-
Apply the oil generously to sounds "hairdo" of flowers and model as a
after the
Wartime "Art Classes Many a time she taught a and girls on the class of men
CINCE the home permanent thumbs, using a Kun sites. At the wall of the, siren they would hastily drop became a frenzy, pretties of ment
high school age are giving them- crayon, paintbrush, or em-
the hair.if it is the ends of selves end curls. These young broidery needip, and snatch up
Indles should know that, while shoulder length. steel helmets and gas masks.
the permanent treatment does away from the scalp, the drier curly pate of the god Apollo,
One of them uses roses for hadr the shafts: Pite the ends on top After the war, with the help
no real damage to the
of your head, put on a towel, of daughter Karen, she set out
shafts, it is necessary to do a
ringlets. Shiny pink to red satin buds stand up all over a design lovely, things for
little reconditioning now and turban style, and go to bed." children who would thus grow then.
The shampoo in the morning pink straw skullcap that com
hairline. up
to appreciate beauty.
a straightforward curls- Now her morel and assistant,
Three weeks before the curl- must be extra · thorough. Stort covers the
all-over coiffure,
but there four-year-old Karen, makes her Ing session is on, oil treatments with a rinsing of fairly hot a strong current mother fool she is on the right should begin so as to relax the water, using
No matter are variations. track. "Karen le most particular silky threads. Give the treaves from a bath spray.
mellum you For the linir-piled-on-top-the- about accessories already," her arousing brushing, strand by what shampoo
or oll-there head look, he offers a blonde mother save, "Hairbows and
strand. Send the brush through use-soup, cream
must be three applications and straw peak with great while
**** daisies
and black forget-me- handa must be just the
them with a rolling motion.
an many rinsings. Part
at various tlib hair Mrs Marris's children's clothes
One should have at least three note.
For the ladies who like n were shown at the British In- places, apply hot mineral all of these lubricating treatments duntries Fair in 1040. Sho is along the partings. You can before giving oneself, the per- pouff over one car, there are making arrangements to export use a small brush for the pur- manent. Let them bo one week cornflowers, massed heavily at But do tho brushing one side and trimmed at the "I like to use the very best
to
Australia and the United pose, a pledget of cotton or a apart.
When every single night. Nothing like back with a pink hair ribbon. large medicine dropper.
fen- British materials in designing Stater.
A Doll-Esque · creation children's clothes," Mrs Marris
"If I can help mothers to the oll is distributed, spread It. It is the best kind of a fold me. "Now with four years diss their children well, and fingers and thumbs over the tonte to make the hair grow tures gray straw,pink roses, of wear in prospect, mothers and at the same Ume help the scalp and give the flesh a brisk thick and long, to put the grapes, grape leaves and those on the corkscrew curled grape wings shimmer: friction.
fingers glamorous Hohl will get value from these good British export drive. I shall feel
with the glorious crest.
to point up the illusion. materials."
stationary, knead very happy," she said.
Ing.
At eight years, the fucks dig- appear altogether and there is All siill four-inch hem.
dresses havu "Roundabout" matching knickers.
n
Good Fabrics
the
Actress dancer Cyd Charisse models this two. plece swim suit made of changeable purpla" Jersey.", The wired bra leaves the Lick quite bare, og
f