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THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 5, 1949.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
DO YOU PLAN YOUR SPRING WARDROBE?
D
о
is
By JOAN ERSKINE
not comfortable
to are cloches,
in them. Her
aro choose
you plan your spring wardrobe? Do you decide on n colour schemo-and keep to it? Do you clothes because they are the "Intest fashion," or because they sult your particular per ted Honality? An astonishing num- ber of women with very metho- dical minds seem to suffer a temporary black-out when they begin buying clothes:
Why Is it? Probably because they are enticed by a pretty dress In shop-window; a certain celour combination beckons; a sult with a will o' the wisp waist persundes them to try it on, and the damage is done. They come away with yet an- olher plece of clothing to hang in the wardrobe because It does not match their new shoes, clashes with all their coats, does not look quite right with their latest hat.
I am going to pay an imaginary visit to the bedroom of a very good
friend, und mentally rummage
through her clothes closet. Most of
dress, us possens a friend with no
bank
sease and large bat balance.
1
And all of us, at some time or other, have thought how much bet-
ler we could dress, given un limited clothes. allowance. The friend I have
in mind is very tall, has
A reasonably good figure, likes stelding around the countryside, and is not happy In a town. But clr- cumstances force her to live in town and she reacts by feeling, self- consciously, that she must dress in "town" fashion.
She has two Atted' coats-one is donkey brown, the other black. Her day dresses have slim atting skirts; her afternoon dress is black draped silk jersey: evening dress is ankle- length and full-skirted with strap- less top. Her shoes are all high- heeled in spite of the fact that she
There seems to be nothing wrong with this selection, at first glance. But she does not walk well in high heels. Her short curly hair is dimet to confine under a cloche. The cle- fight-skirted dresses and
and tiny- ats make her movements coats awkward. Her ovening dress makes her seat taller and bonter than she really is. And because sofi Folours are fashionable, she wears donkey
brown: because she lives in town she chooses bincic And half-tones nre not kind to a fair person with an outdoor look about them. Conse- quently.
she never Tooks well- dressed,
4
Sho made the mistake of ignoring her own personality. I she had chosen wkle loose conts with flowing fines, in bold cheeks, or the season's newest plaid tartan; picked out one of the colours Inf
'Find out the colour which suits you best. Experiment with it and ind out what subsidiary colours it can take. Complement it with the the right make-up. If you tailored type, don't go in for frills and flounces. In the tropics your sult may be gabardine, sharkskin or colton pique. In a chilly country, it will be tweed, fine woollen cloth, or plaid from the Western Isles. Choose a matching top-edat, which can bo worn separately over lighter dresses, and with which you can wear a whole new set of accessories.
Illustrated here are two entirely different types of ouinis. One is from the Matita spring collection. It is a sult and top coat in multi- pink, navy and gold check. The unusual zig-zag button fastening in something the front of the the top cont for
suit is her day dress; bought a full-length
now. The buttoning is carried Corn it with a evening skirt and
through the back of the coat Into high-necked evening sweater in the
the, deep hemline. The hat, by John finest angora; and fitted herself out
Muir, is an unostentatious foll to the with town "casuals"--she would he
outt. able to stride along with the utmost confidence in her appearance. Soft Iarge berets would look better than claches, which are happiest on sleek hair-dos.
★
Instead, she letters unhappily around on her high heels, and longs for the week-end when she can. climb into corduroys and forget about clothes. It all seems such a waste.
It could be simply avolded. To be one of the world's, well-dressed women does not necessarily involve a great brain. It does mean good taste, unerring Judgment, and, above all, restraint. Smart women are not those who buy dresses by the dozen and suits by the score, but wamen who
plan their wardrobes with care, refuse to be side-tracked by on alluring advertisement, and ignore over-persuasive salesgirls.
Frederick Starke spring ensemble.
There's a wide range of lipstick colours
By HELEN FOLLETT
FASHION POINTS: It is a classic suit, so would never be unfashionable. All the spring collections have made great play with buttons, ornamental and otherwise, but the fastening on this suit is the most "out-of-the- ordinary yet.
COMMENT: Right for ппу woman who wants to look elegant in town, and happy in the country.
The second is a dress and jacket ensemble in surf green light-weight lambswool, and comes from the Frederick Starke spring collection. The matching casual Jacket intro- duces a iny orange spot, which is also used for the sash of the dress.
FASHION POINTS: High collar, swathed waist band, UNITOW skirt, and bracelet- length cuffed sleeves.
COMMENT: A great many women, giving one look at the elegance of the model wearing this outfit with supreme In-
difference, would Immediately consider IL quite
hopeless for
a
them. In actual tnet, It would sult any woman with waistline In the right place. The full loose jacket is always kind to hips larger than stock size; and a swathed waist-band can create quite un lusion!
Matita classic suit and topcoat.
DUCHESS OF KENT SETS THE PACE
FOR
By PATRICIA LENNARD-.
OR the last 10 years Britain 501 Din In shoes, with a 251. waist. has had a fast-dwindling 34, hips, has glowing ilght chestnut stake among the world's best hair, green-brown eyes; peach com-
plexion. dressed women.
This year, our most consistent re- presentative-and now sole survivor on the lists the Duchess of Kent.
Establishment of the Duchess of Kent as well-dressed by international standards of judgment was munde in the 1930's, by her good laste in- dividuality, grooming and the faca Jond figure of a modiet. She is about
That party suit and
how to wear it
to TWO years ago
most But now the old belted reefer coat TWO
suit was has disappeared and tailored coats Englishwomen a
with Indented waists and a centre- something_to_wear in the coun_back fullness have taken their place. try. Generally speaking it had I have even seen a miniature ver- a basic shape. The skirt was sion of the Parisian "Tent" coat made pleated back and front. The to fit a five-year-old. jacket had high revers
and
was
breasted
single- and the material was usually
tweed.
The effect was of good material, well-tallored-- but very dull. It was re markable how unimagina- tive women were with their
suits -- and they rarely wore them in
Jown,
Today something new 'Is happening Sults are being worn to Informal partics. They are made from materials which hitherto, were consi- dered quite unsust- able,
Corded silks, iridescent tuffeins, stlf, rich, excit- Ing materials which lift the ordinary suit out of its rut.
Dressmaker suits with a plain jacket and soft skirt are news.
Instead
The lipstick brush is a cute and rotary is frequently
Ione year, whits there are com- TT may interest you at this senson
plexion changes, when fashions over the red cream, rest your finger sirike a new note, to observe lip- On your
chin to stendy it, form atick offerings. You may be sur pleasing curves with the brush. Fal- prised to lud how many different low the natural lines as closely us colours there are. Also you inny possible. Then fill in. wonder just what shade is best for you.
ara
reds,
By this method you won't. have untouched areas, as may happen when you pass the rosy penell over your lips.
Divided into types there orange reda, clear reds, pink reds, fuchtips ami orchids, brown blue reds and deep wine tones that
blue reds, You ore deep realized, perhaps, there many colours, each one diminet in tidy attempts, Its way.
were
never
RO
The slightest inaccuracy In ap- plying colouring to the lips marks a woman as lucising fastidiousness. In daily observation one seer many un- and that's just too and because the most important rulo in make-up and hairdo is neatness. No scrambled tresses, no smeary blushes, patchy powder applications. or uneven ip borders.
The blonde should choose a pink red, as a rule, although she can get away with fuchsia if the skin has a golden cast. The brunette has a
It the lips are
ara thin, the pencli can wider choice, depending upon the to over the white surface ever colour of her complexion, that can slightly. The colour can be fairly be pale, rosy, creamy or golden. For vivid, though fire engine red--lika her there must be a certain amount ever eye shadows and green man- of experimenting. The girl with the cara-lo definitely out. It shows up olive skin can stick to her raspberry overy complexion defect and that is Up Unt and look ravishing,
not according to beauty Hoylo,
Smocked organdie party dress,
This swagger style Is hung in three full pleats at the back and buttoned high up to the neck in front.
in
It was a utility coa!
warm cherry-red cloth, and n
child could wear Innu-
The Duchess of Kenl is always sufficiently ahead of a new fashion to annke her the fashion leader, not merely in the fashion." She Ins been described as the "world's best because, unlike most shopper"
is willing lo try out Royalty, she new firms, new faces, new ideas.
What is the Duchess of Kent wearing at present? It is evident that her feeling for afternoon dresses In tle-silk, worn with a coat, will continue this spring. Latest outfit will be n dressmaker sult in very henvy pure silk with Π grained surface, in pearl grey, worn with a white lingerie blouse.
She likes soft greys, pale pinks, topaz mauves for these tie-slik dresses. She often brings her jewels to the dressmaker to decide colours.
Blanca Mosca makes many of her afternoon dresses, coats and soft tailored_suits.
A New Fashion
Many of her tailored suits, her summer prints and evening and cocktail dresses are made by Captain
often
her sends Molyneux. He skelches of designs created for her. dummy, made to her They have a measurements to COVO time In
attings.
Even if the new season's dress collection is entirely different from morable the one before, she is never afraid of woolles be- choosing a new fashion. And all the neath it in accessories must be suited-she cold weather
without look-
because it
18 new
Bover wears a piece of jewellery
or valuable. ing tight and
She always wears perfume, make- bunchy.
Cand.
noli varnish. She has had. Bird's-eye her hair dressed by a Bond Street
tweed in tur- quoise had a removable quilted lin- Ing. The brown half- collar looked like vel- vel, but it was netunlly fine wool with a suede Anish.
☆
Children's skinn chafe early, and it is important that coat colinrs should not be made from rough and hairy tweed,
For school wear- before uniform is the rule kilts with ከ
of the inevitable Inverted pleats and grey buttons, plain grey worsted is given black, shiny, buttons, velvet plain jersey are popular. They are
and a straight skirt.
warm, they "wear clean," and chil- dren like them.
Party dresses for children and teen-agers are also in the shops now." Deep smocking on organdie or fine wool is much used.
havo deep
Sklets have centre back or centre front fullness without hip izutk
points like elongated waistcoats.
The new rule for suite is to have the old classic style made in new exotic materials or to give the or
fe with unusual trimmings. dinary worateds and tweeds fresh Suits are no longer the hallmark of the country,woman,
Several shops are now showing from tailored sults to at chlidren
They are modified alx years old. replicas of grown-up styles,
With slightly rounded shoulders, long revers, and pocket detall, they are made l grey flannel and Harris tweed. In the smaller sizes, when children have no waistline, the skirts are strapped.
It could not be more important than that children should like the clothes they wear. Too many chu- dren are sÜll'dressett to plense their parents' vanity.
Lip
house in the same basle fashion for many years--centre parted, neither short hor long. with soft waves caught Into curls that reveal lobes of the ears.
Simplo In Design
Her shoes, made by the firm who make shoes for the rest of the Royal Family, are classically simple to the paint of severity-plain lira court shoes, size 0%, for town wear, slightly pointed, with moderate heels, no, buckles, no bits. For country wear-lace-up shoes; and she prefers nylons.
Her handbags are simple In design, fabulous in material: they are often made of the finest black antelope, fairly big. but, never bulky," with handles that go over the arm, and gold frames and fillings.
If there is a clasp, it is made et something like jade or amber, and the Duchess itkes her coroneted initial on the bag.
In Jewellery, she prefers to wear her pearl drop earrings, sot with
double string of diamonds, and a pearls. Where some parents are so mis- For day wear, she likes semi- guided as to have their children's precious stone clips or brooches, worn heir "permed," "there are others who with pearls; she prefera sapphires to buy them flashy, unsuitable clothes other precious stones, necklaces to which are ridiculed by school friends all jewellery pieces, and usually wears and which will ruin their clothes, diamonds only at night. sense when they are older.
The duchess often wears furs with likes mink best. n mink cont
Chlidren of eight or nine should her Inflorescant with
of hers into a
be allowed to choose, within reason, Her furrier is some of their clothes.
They will invariably want the brightest colours, the loudest checks, and the most grown-up styles, but it The New Look for women (which should not be difficult for a parent is now outdated) has given. new to guide a child into good taste and ideas to designeru of children's a lasting clothes sense, clothes, which for years have been lacking in originality.
swinging back and has lent her similar model from rock to wear until her
own cont la
la ready. In her current wardrobe, the essentials are simplicity of design, with dofall. unusual colours accessories ringing the changes. She SUSAN DEACON does not like fussiness.
and