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THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, FRIDAY, JANUARY 28, 1949.
B
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
Woman of the Year
Sammanum by
PATRICIA LENNARD
RITISH women were slow
to
the. New approve
Look, did not like the Tube Look, dismissed the Empire Line as an unflattering plot against the female form divine.
Most women now seem to prefer the standard modified characteristics of the very first New Look clothes that came out this time two years ngo.
They
like a moderately longer skirt because it haters the legs.
They like a moderately full skirt
it finiters because
the hips anet cwishes excitingly,
They like a moderately natural shoulderline because it makes them feel feminine and not masculine.
They like a tiny waist because most woinen have not got a tiny waist, and so they like It.
With this silhouette as a blue- print, they do not mind how many frills, drapes, twists and tricks are addot; they just want their natural curves and indentations left in the right places,
With Tondon spring shows at the end of this month and Paris shows the week after, what do the experts say? London's leading designers, the Big Ten, tell you what they think women will wear in 1940.
lo
and
HARDY AMIES: "There's going In the classic-to be retu tailored mults, more shoulder padding
foresee tweed for suits dresses, straighter Bues with side pleats and side drapery to avoid skimpiness, full skirts with tricks sp that they don't look untidy, and always a small waist."
CHARLES CREED: "Same sil. houette as 2018-square shoulders, skirts 12, from the ground, rather ful skirts with straight line at the sides. No loud fabric designs, but monotones, especially blues, greys and browns."
NORMAN HARTNELL: "I seem la see woman walking away from me with her skirts fluttering at the back; ali Interest pushed to the back, below-the-calf skirts, natural shoulders, not many changes."
*
LONDON'S BIG TEN TELL WHAT WOMEN WILL WEAR IN 1949. . . .
*Two sketches, 12 fashion pointa show how women's appearance will changa before the year's end ...
THE DRESS
1-Natural, unpadded shouldon
—Raglan sigaves 3-Tiny waist.
4-Below.caft skirt length (12in.
from ground),
5-Material: tiny precision print
-checked the silk. G-Full skirt with narrow look. 7Sida skiri fullness: asymmet-
rical panel of pleats.
THE SUIT BO
1.
Squarer shoulders,
padded.
Z. Material: striped blue and gray tweed,
SKETCHES
3.
BY
SIGRID
Longer tackot, long revers, tailored line.
Wool Jersey sweater, pear! choker linked to lapel,,
mid-
from
5. Shorter sklet, straight, narrow, calf length (13) kround!
€3306028244teemaFTAVEITSIKELL 1997TZEN GALLAN INTRO
you,
Wool With Glamour
Of Silk
By SUSAN DEACON
tho
The tune they're beating on the Mayfair drums
Anne Edwards
IF YOU
LONDON.
doesn't have to buy her own clothes? Among others, wo love had to World's Best Dressed Woman (slater- in-law, ex-wife, and wife of a the Maid of Wool millionaire). who arrived in midsummer with an all-wool wardrobe.. Sally Hardes- ty,
who glumour prizewinner,
Englishwomen to look
advised
Sue
WANT to keep up with the Mayfair Jones's, you'll keep your eyes open for what's new in OUTLINES: Tube Look to the knees, flared below: COLOURS: powter and bronze: HAIR STYLES: curls "classical but not commonplace."
And Row 19-year-old Minn on to cheekbones: LIPSTICK: Howell, who gallantly arrives in plum red: POWDER: shade of midwinter with *11 all-cotton parchment: EARRINGS: long trousseau. dangles to match the newest Isn't it about time that the New York Dress Institute, the world's NECKLACES, which are long, biggest fashion publicity organiza-- knotted amber, jade, or pearl tion, who are responsible for most of bends...
this propaganda, put over a new
Idea?
And on the wardrobe hooks of the Mayfair Joneses you will find the newest SHOES. which have straps halfway down the instep. Louis heels:
FURS of leopard;' and PAT- TERNS in gay tarians...
SCATTER THEM!
Example: At the throat-line
THE "scatter-pin", craze is on its way over via Paris and New York. Women there are
ARE you afraid to be warm? through the winter in flimsy under-wearing six or seven of these If that question startles wear longing for the luxury of wool, tiny pins mosquitoes, bees, but afraid of its dowdiness-and of ladybirds-in clusters on their spare thought for
the extra bulk 11 will add to her lapels, shoulders, waistbelts. woman who is.
To be fashionable, chic, to retain litheroe profile, shc shivers
Keep Your
Hats Looking New
By ELEANOR ROSS. "MATTLI:—"Very much-straighter DEAUTIFUL, hats are coming up silhouette, certainly no Empire ne; for the new season-bats that lots of drapery
and asymmetrical
are well worth the bit of trouble it drapery; fewer
strapless evening will take to keep them looking as shoulder dresses,
more
straps nice, as fresh. us crisp, as when they printed
dress, cottons for evening
were first Bfted from their tissue but no flower prints by day- only precision prints, tiny checks. Paper wrappings. Notice when you
shoulder padding, no more quepieres, but a natural waist tine, skirts about 12in. from the ground."
No
DIGBY MORTON. "Certainly for mure tailored silhouettes, very slight shoulder pudding, classic linex, skirts about 12in. from the ground. And although we shall be making slini skirts, I think ready-made skirts will be fuli, as they will t women more easily."
BIANCA MOSCA: "Shorter skirts will come in, also full skirts, but not tremendously so.. No padding in the shoulders, no Empire line. dols in Small cheeks und polka wool and silk for dresses und suits. Bright orange and fangerine reds."
PETER RUSSELL: "Much back straight movement in skiris, with silhouette from the front. Skirts will be 14in. to 15in. from the ground, jackets longer. Shoulders will be compromise between natural and padded line: definitely no! New colours will sloppy looking. Include grey, dark yellowy-greens. a reddish mauve."
dark
★
get the hat home how
how it nested in tissue paper and try to replace the paper when you return the hat to its box. The issue is wadded in a certain manner to hold velling crisp and in place. It stuffs the crown and is so placed that it may be
drawn around the hat making a-sort of inner box.
Care starts with the donning of n hat. Don't yank it out of the boy and onto your head. Slip the hut on carefully, from the front, for n flat-top hairdo; from back to front if you sport bangs.
Should Be Brushed
Hats should be brushed or wiped after each wearing.
Use a soft brush or a plece. of velveteen on telt or fabric hals. Fabric stretched over buckram takes a good cleaning with an art gum eraser. French chalk. rubbed in and brushed out, in one quick operation, does a good job on pastel felts, the type that are so especially in off-white popular shades.. Or you can go over the entire hal, very lightly, with fine sandpaper.
waistline.
this skeleton
Having
produced from the smartwoman's wardrobe, It is my pleasant duty to report that the stigma has been taken out of woollen underwear.
The story of the carnisule, which has often in the post had about as much shape as a potato sack, has taken several steps forward.
Woollen fabrics are now spun gossamer fine and ultra-feminine, and designers are being inspired to create woollen under-garments which com- pete for chic even with silks and chiffons. >
-Winter-nightdresses, which hitherto and were
of Inade
winceyelte,
from hung straight and shopeless the shoulders like a man's nightshirt, attractive as they uro
are now as strug
.
Made of finely woven wool, in
lovely pastel colours, they can be smocked, lace-trimmed, and made exactly as you would make the finest silk.
One nightdress I saw in deep tur quoise had long sleeves, frilled, and sitting at the wrist.
culiurless, and
It was yoked and the yoke, and sleeve edges were
edged with wide lace.
coloured
In .London. though, the cheapest scatter-pin I could find was a gilt bee with glass body, five shillings each and twice too big. London please copy1
YOU KNOW HIM? CHILDREN HATE.-The Per
Kid.
When you say "How d'you do?" he says "I don't like you." Then he creeps up and slams the door in your face while you are talking to his
mother.
All through tea he stares at you, und-onco
-once-in-a-whito contributes personal remark; such as "Your legs are too thin." or "What's that lady for, Mummy?"
II you
with counter-attack surreptitious slap he runs from the room screaming: "She hit me, she
bit me." If you try rapprochement
with
that."
a toy he says, "I've got one like
The only way to make peace is to fill his mouth with your chocolate ration and sit quiet while he dribbles most of it back on to your Inp.
TOP-SELLER
Or confined the old one to less embarrassed customers?
ON THE MENU ELICACIES just in are: Ment
asple pellics, Od. each.
(excellent with
DE
Goat's vanilin
cream flavouring). no points. 2s. 9d. a car- tort. Goat's milk cheeses, no points, Gs. 6d. per lb. Swles Gruyere, B points, 55. a B. Norwegian crab
unst, is, 11d. per tin, Dutch her ring soft rocs, 2s. 6d. per tin. Goose lver and pork, 2s. per tin, Australian jar. Aus- frist chutney, 35. Od. trullan tomato ketchup, 1s. 4d. Frozen Russian salad 12 oz, carton, 1
Powdered tomato. spinach, onions, from
29. 3d. a bottle. Pint tins of grape juice. 18. 4d.
Battled fresh garden peas, carrots sliced runner beans, 2s.. no points, enough for three.
GOOD ADVICE
IN the era when men wore velvet silk, and jewels, a contemporary said of him, "Of all my acquaintances 1 was the quietest, plainest, most He eschewed unpretending dresser, colours, tripketą, Howgaws. His clothes were exquisitely made and he put them on well, but there was no striving for effect"
His name?
Beau Brummell, the man who first made English tailoring celebrated.
His advice on dress? "If John Bull turns to look after you, you are not well dressed, but either too stiff, too tight. or too fashionable." (From "Beau Brummell," a new blography by Kathleen Campbell)
S-T-R-E-T-C-H-E-D? QTATEMENTS that didn't quile work Dut, "We just haven't enough materials for longer skirts." Miss Alle Kilroy, Under-Secretary at the Board of Trade, September 30, 1947.
'TIS FOLLY- SEVERAL contented and devoted
wives have told me that not a day of the honeymoon passed with- out fears. No one has ever told me that it was the happiest time of her life.
how
Brides expect too much. Every- one has conspired to persuade them that the first month of marriage is. a time of unshadowed bliss: when It proves to be full of ordinary annoyances they fall despondent and think It I am not deliriously happy now, when shall I ever be?
"And later, when they find the blame their early disappointment married state pleasant enough, they arrangements. on their husbands* We never ought to have gone to that awful hotel. No one told me never had a moment alone. We never cold it
We could be at Antibes. saw another soul. I was worn out walking through picture galleries. There was absolutely nothing to do. He should never have let me cal macaroni I was never really well again until we got back to England, "A honeymoon is a holiday: the hopes, of many. It has
features, certain unique
but the the day joft
frame-your-face
the planning more it is treated at
commonplace singe as something But there ought to be a society for
the more enjoyable it is likely to the prevention of hats-that-frame- be." A turquoise dressing-gown Was
Who sald
EVELYN all this? piped with a narrow black edging faces being worn by faces that have
no claim to be framed..
Brides," WAUGH in "A Book for and for the woman who has time to wear exotic negligee Bne black lacy SHOP NOTEBOOK published by Forbes Publications. woot was mode with wide, flowingOING down Regent-street, I
LITTLE RICH GIRL steeves and a trailing hemline.
BOUGHT the first nylon-mesh nighiles that
ittle girl who is dry as HE is the quickly as the stockings and never third party in this year's most need ironing, for £295., 11a. public runaway romance-REBECCA I NOTED the "Mrs Stanley hair- WELLES.
Platinum
Every picture of the celebrated doughnut-
SMARTER PYJAMAS
THE hat that half London is wear- ing is a jersey snood with two rolls across the top, and two side scarves to drape round your fee. Twenty-four thousand women are
I saw a pink satin sash used on a wearing them, and another hundred first, one
pale-blue nightdress, and the n sheerest pale-green wool-edged brigade.
wi. pink fine-wool lace.
-Pyjamas have' been smartened considerably, and it is surprising how many women still wear them all the year round.
nover
more
G
of the new
the
Instead of being made with V-style-outsize necks and drain-pipe trousers, the ring buns offered for sale at 74% cross-country marathon shows this are now talloned and well-fitting, guineas.... 1 MET Sheila Sim's small, sulky person in zip-sided boots They are made in this same fine
with reversible and now spring outfi
the same woul, and although
suit, skl pyjamas wlll he glamorous, they are, at white blue one side, check blue and woolly
the other,
I. WINDOW- being dragged up attractive than SHO
SHOPPED for
the first warpies back door gang-, out made made-in-one. with A strapless ways pushed brassiere for evening dress...
of side door exists, AND I OVERHEARD a middle-aged; bundled into cars at midnight, lug- musquash-coated woman say to her grey-haired boy friend "Try a little ged into one plane
11 fter
another whisky in your health food, tear.
when
too she's tired to walk,
Use cleaning fluid to keep ribbon trims fresh, and don't forget to re- move powder and perspiration from the inner head band frequently, with | least, much cleaning fluid,
they were.
Cami-knickers look as If they are made from chiffon-they are tailored to it and prettily Bubed over the hips, but without the usual thick but which one expects from layers of wool.
GLAMOROUS UNDIES
It's delicious,"
FAVOURITE -
catticisms:
QUOTES M Dorit was there in one of those downless evening "Don't look now, dear, but your
nitle is slipping"
"She's the
་་
straps.".
Some aspects of Christmas her holiday have been strange enough to four- make even year old ponder. What fun it is travelling to half the exciling pinces
Rainspots On Folt VICTOR STIEBEL: "Fullish
Don't cry.
over rainspotted. felts sleiris, And hips, fullucis at rides or Dry them out, and then,' withi 1 back front, no shoulder padding genile, circular motton, use a piece Skirts about 13in. of chamois or fine sandpaper to reglan sleeves,
the from the ground. Emphasis on ollbanish
spots. Occasionally vivit blues-petrol blue steam felts, volvets and other
the Treasy blues,"
hat napped materials. Hold well above the spout of a steaming Vest and panile sole, well-fitting MOLYNEUX: "Skirts will be an kettle and brush very lightly."
and hard-wearing, look as if they inch or two shorter this year, just Revive clusters of flowers by shake. are made of the next lace, below mid-calf, No thoulder pad-Ing gently over steams. Feathers ding-If anything, a more
pro-
They are not only warm, but they sort of woman who can only count and large flowers that become bent nounced slope. No Empire line. or out of shape may be gently but are glamorous, too-n
associated with Evening dresses will be shorter. firmly flager-pressed as you steam before And this year's fabrics will develop them, Curl petals
in Europe-if only around pencil underwear. the "changing taffets” trend; There the same way. Ribbons usually can Housecoats and full-length dressing NEWS that yet another Mald of you have time to
Cotton is on her way from will
See them. be changing-colour
do not look as if they ara Kowns chiffons, come off for a bath. Press out kinks
America laves me wondering.
Why did made from a blanket, organdies, satin.'
mamma suggest a boat with a warm fron, and use cethvor? to trim
frayed edges. You can trim
In the last six months five of these trip together, and never once come And it sho is so keen for WORTH: "No change: British up flower petals, too. Testiffen
"ambasadresses They can be pleated or plain, self-assured
of on deck? unpacked their new Rebecca to come too, women like natural make-up and droopy vells by pressing between frilled or with a swirling skirt and fashion" have
why doesn't
clothes, unlike Paris; no tiny walats two sheets of waxed
once in a while, or they will not take the entire luggage, displayed their slick clothes, she look round
to and gone.
take her hand, make sure she's Natural shoulder rinse them in or padded lips.
sugar waler and space to pack in a suitcase.
I see that the old-fashioned panta-
Who elects these ambassadresses? will continue with squarer shoulder stretch smooth to dry. Vells not at-
thero? for country clothes.
are coming Draped or full tached to hats should be wound toon and camisole "acts skirts will be long, fight skirta around a cardboard cylinder when back. But I do not thinle that shorter,"
not in use.
women will take them seriously,
paper.
as warm.
up
word never up to sex."
woollen
but they ara
SPARE. US!
!
And just what sort of "good will" It's not as if she were just the do, they create by showing us how seventeenth piece of luggage. Or is a well-dressed girl can look-if she it?