Hollywoods
Sensational "Make-up
most make
CAMPANA
Magic Touch
Instant
new
beauty. at your finger's touch
Makers
Reated &
CREAM MAKE-UP
Hot Cola! Non-Drying!
No Waler Needadl
Aspic is mad
SOLE AGENTS NANKANG CO. UND BLDG.K.K.
ON SALE AT
LANE, CRAWFORD, LTD, — A. S. WATSON & CO., LTD. CHINA EMPORIUM LTD. --- SINCERE COMPANY, ITD.
COLONIAL
&
DISPENSARY
OTHER LEADING STORES,
PYRAMID
HANDKERCHIEFS
IN
FANCY BOXES
MACKINTOSH'S
DEPT
ALEXANDRA BUILDING-
DES VOEUX ROAD
SINCERES
BRITAIN'S
FINEST MATTRESSES!
STORE
SLUMBERLAND-
#1
#
'EDEN
MATTRESSES
ARE
HERE AGAIN
x 6ft. 3in,
SIZES: 3ft.
3ft. Gin. x
4ft. Gin. x
10
Sft. Gin, xu
WITH FINE DAMASK TICKS OF PINK OR GREEN COLOUR
New Design-
New Luxurious Comfort
THE SINCERE CO., LTD.
THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, SATURDAY, DECEMBER 4, 1948.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE.
Scarves Make Gay Head-wear
An Ascher scarf designed by Andre Derain. Below: a square designed by Marie Laurencin, entitled "La Seine."
SHO
Exhibition Reveals
New Shoe Styles
By VICTORIA CHAPELLE-
an open
signs shown af the Exhibition cluded a court shoe with lattice-work unkle, giving the effect of a Raman andal-this in black suede calf with coloured whipsnake or calf lattice-work; a shell shoe
very rourt in black suede with a open vamp which allows most of the top of the foot to be seen, the foot three thin and in being secured by
boot delicate strips of enlf; a little
or
Britain, HOE design in
keeping pace with the re- volutionary changes in women's clothes, has aroused a good deal A great of interest overseas," number of buyers visited Lon- don recently to see the Fashions in Fontwear Exhibition, Grosvenor House. Forty-two in binek suede calf with gold kid leading firms had their designs view and the cream of Britain's footwear was shown.
children, as, Styles for men and well
women.
were
shown, and boyers and
Conten- trated
view of
work of many of Britain's leading footwear craftsmen. They were given an insight into the great craft of British shooking and In discussion groups learned of the organisation and
on
th
strength of the United Kingdom footwear industry. Novel exhibition
techniques and footlight fashion parades showed how new outlines and textures had heen developed to necompany recent fashions Intro- duced by dress designers,
Some of the leading exhibitors 'were unanimous in saying that there was a tendency to revert to 1020 fashion trends, styled, of course, for 1948. One Arm mentioned Instep ties, button shoes, one-bar shoes und, in all probability, the
strap, as due for revival. But these will be given the restrained elegance which the new long skirt demands. and will be very different from the styles in vogue when the short chemise frock was fashionable..
Long Narrow Shape
ONE
of the firm's experts pointed out that the growing popularity of the long narrow shoe was not sur prising in view of the fact that it had been out of vogue for so long, This means, of course, that the end of the short and dumpy styles of the past five years is in sight; but he gave it as his opinion that were more than.rendy for novelty. He thought that closed backs and closed foes with open walsts were likely to supersede the open hacks and peep-toes, which have certainly suffered a decilne in popularity, per- haps for the reason that they stem- out of keeping with the more dig- nited fashions coming from the dressmakers salons.
piping with the new open-closed toe iloa giving the effect of a Turkish slipper; and a black satin and lace hoots for evening wear.
in The makers and the demand high grade shoes is for colourful combinations, such as black succe combined with blue, green or red whipsnake, black suede and lizard.
ог
Boots And Bootcos
THERE is a growing interest in boots or bootees. The Laguna Bounder promises to attract atten-. ton. This is a semi-Jodhpur bootee In leather or suede with a high plain instep, vamp itting nearly to the over which is narrow strap finish- et by a buckle, a crepe or leather sole, and a leather rand (which also appeara on the suede model). Another outstanding model is u booter with full-breasted
FL heel; it has a low vamp showing much of the fool, but a quarter built up high and coming well above the ankle to end in a cuff. This model in suede or satin call illus- rates a new trend and is not to be
misked..
Louis
The Louis type of heel is also used in what is called an imitation bar shoe Influenced by the
shoes popular in the 1800's; in other words the bars are cut out of one piece of leather and merge into a single buckle, instead of being separately fastened as the older models.
Special Designs
By
Famous Art Names
By JOAN ERSKINE
LONDON. URING the war, the habit rapidly grew of putting a
Drapid urriedly, on
our
heads, "tying it peasant-wise under our chins, and dashing forth to the daily routine.
New scarves are being midie that wo treat with reverence, exhibit to our friends, and could hang proudly on our walls!
Aschers have, however, gone even farther into the task of linking the with work of great tying artists textile printing. An exhibition will shortly be held in London of four panels designed by Henri Matisse and Henry Moore. They will be large enough to cover the wall of a modern room, are printed on linen and signed by the artists. Only thirty copies of each have been printed. The contrast between the two artists' work is marked,
And what else would you ex- pect when they are designed,
"art and signed, by famous
will Henri Matisse, Henry names," Moore, Felika Topolski, Graham Sutherland?
For some years past, munu- facturers have exploited the scarf-wearing habit by design- ing more and more flamboyant Scarves were design-
•squares.
ed for everything. The increa- sing enthusiasm for ballet brought forth scarves for the balletomane, with ballerinas performing entrechats in cach corner. The Royal Wedding suggested a whole series de- picting episodes in the Royal lives. The Olympic Games were advertised lavishly in the same way. Popular magazines, drinks, revues, films, made their bow on silk, linen, cotton and chiffon.
In crowded streets it was usual to see passers-by craning their necks to read what was written -011 a scarf walking by.
To mention this exhibition is to depart very far from scarves and head-squares, but these panels
ATE to our age what tapestries were to The Middle Ages. It is hoped that in the years to come these panela be recognised as historienl examples of twentieth-century art,
Mallase expresses his mood when on a visit to the South Seas many years ago. Ils compositions consist of motifs one set belonging to the sky, the other to the sea. Moore's dealgus are typical of his great in- mystery terest in the wonder and of life. His abstract designs of figures, standing and reclining, seem oddly human.
There are unexplored possibilities in this new field of design for print- Ing on materials. It will be very interesting to see how it develops,
IT'S MINK—Actress Virginia Mayo models a luxurious silver blue mink cont entitled "Breath of Spring."
Party
frocks are the prettiest
since
by BUSAN
LIMITED EDITIONS
HE party season is here, and the shops are showing the welcome return of the pret- ASCHERS of London saw the great
tiesi party dresses since 1930. possibilities in this revival of the
Evening dresses, dinner dresses. beadsquare, and early in the
designing semi-party they began printing and
dresses, anet evening to And and much their famous scarves. Nearly every skirts are easier
war
1939
DEACON
Instead of bouffant net skirts and frills and Hounces, they should rely more on beauty of material and cut,
Stiff materials, with a dull finish and a small pattern, nre a wise cholec-or i soft material which
eminent painter of our time lias been evening dresses have two distinct will drape well.
commissioned to design for
them.
The Aschers are also using the work lines the "Off-the-Shoulder" line
of several young artists in the belief that they will one day be as re- nowned as re the great conlern- porury artists of the present.
Mr Ascher told me his firm uses mostly British materials, of every kind"every quality of material is suitable for a certain sort of design." Asked why the designs were all modern in conception, he said, "I am against trying to imate the old masters.The only reason why they tre copied is because they have at- tained such perfection."
Many of the squares are produced in Hmited editions, individualty numbered, and signed by the artist. In years to come, he hopes, these pieces of great will be collector's
There is no chance of their value. being repeated, us the screens are destroyed.
་
Andre Derain's delightfully odd little couple, or Marie Laurengin's "Lo Seine." both illustrated here, would transform a dark dinner dress Into a thing of beauty. The designs would be shown to their best ad- vantage draped over the shoulders, with the ends tucked through belt.
ex-
But it must be admitted that the searves are generally used as hibition pieces. There is something quite new about a scarf framed and hunst. They are used, too, as drapes, cushions, covers, and so on.
NEW INDUSTRY
and the modifled "Empire" line.
The first style is more often seen with wide, floating skirt, but the skirt can also be worn straight at the front and draped to centre back fulness.
Bare shoulders *The shoulders arc completely
neckline bare, and the
is often cuffed with a deep bertha, in lace,
broderie anglais, or self material:-
This charming style can look quite lovely-but not if you are very thin, or over-plump.
Good shoulders are an
for essential
this new bare look and if you have not got them then wear buttons to the neck and long sleeves. and make a a feature of the design of the skirt. The modified "Em- pire" line is a long- princess line, taut and atling from waist to The skirt falls bosom. straight from the waist.
Low cut
At a London fashion ane of show recently most popular evening dresses was in dark. rich
green satin cut on the Em- pire
line and SCHERS held ah exhibition of here, again, the A their squares at the Lefevre neckline was low Gallery in London's Bond Street. It cut. kas since received international acclamation and been shown throughout the world, in all the principal cities.
In the Ascher factory are blocks mode as far back as the Jute 18th century. Occasionally these Are used for printing designs, the only change being in the colouring.
This dress sold approximately
£15, but it is, I feel,
an unflai- tering style
wear
unless your
figure is very trim.
Hang of skirt
The skirt of the dress should not
be cut on the bias. Any fulness should be at the centre back ог front, and it should long smoothly over the hips.
Keep the bodice draped miker than Atied, and always wear sleeves, however brief.
Evening stoles. in materials tonintch-your-eiress,-in-lace,
or sequin spangled net, are popular.
Long evening gloves are still being worn, and look very sophisticated for more formal oc- casions,
большу
Eoptre like evening dress with matching stole.
Evening dresses for women with 44 in. hips are, I know, difculi, but an inclination to mado only spread is
the more obvious by wrong choice of style and material.
There is nothing more revealing thon
clinging gatin evening dress, and the success of a dress does not depend entirely on your
Ascher's may be the forerunners of an entirely new Industry, that of transferring art in its purest form- painting-to squares of material four-bar
signed with the artist's name. Close between artist and collaboration
this manufacturer is required for process, and it must be more than satisfying to Aschers that they have managed to adapt and reproduce even the most difficult sketches foundation,
The abstract designs of Graham The
Sutherland, and the sombre, rather Henry awe-Inspiring creations of
You should certainly watch your Moore, have been produced with walatine-but not only your waist- equal success. It
to is not easy describe the wonderful colourings
The contented platform has been so successful that designers are gly- ing it their closest attention. women
Bouncer model (with an Internal heel built up to 1% inches and gly- ing a natural arch form) and the (internal wedge) will ba Bounder seen in new gulses. These range from the casual shoe with a
wide strap effect below the instep finished with two purely decorative buttons, to the casual sporting shoe in calf
(made to
a particular tannage formula) with wide strap and buckle over plain high vamp with tongue and elastic inset. The construction of both these types is, of course, pro- tected by patents.
now
All designers say that the styles, even when they are more elaborate, must have almost a glove- fitting line, especially abova the vamp. For instance, originul
de-
successfully.
Ine.
Watch waistline
Evening skirts, in velvel, or similar material, are most practi- cal for a parly, as they can be worn it you are really
dressing
up or just changa ing.
of One loveliest evening skirts I bave
the
seen, Ing
sell- at
little
# aver
ce,
was
made
of
and nel, and
was sprin-
kled with
black
tiny ortia-
'cial rose-
brids...
Flowers-
real or artif- cial — are be-
ovon
ing worn at the waist, but fasten them towards the side where they will not be crushed as you, dance,
Or, belter, up the hem of your dress with a single use Evening to show neat ankle. dresses need to be cleaned fre quantly, so do not be tempted into buying metal sequined or gold em- broidery unless you are quite cer- tain that it will clean.
catch
And remember that a pleated skirt must be re-pleated during the clean- ing, which in an expensive proċesz Coloured acquius are not seen at all on dresses this season, and vel-
used. The designs have come to life A wasp-walst corset, although it yet I used a great deal with nat.
down the inches around
on the great glowing squares, Robert whittles Colquhoun's "Cornish Landscape" is your middle, is ugly if it pushes in sharp lemon-yellow and shaded | pads of flesh bolow and above the mauve-pink, with touches of
grey corset. and crimson. Pale bluo, touches of
Evening and dinner clothes for grey and ivory, oro characteristical- ly Matisse. And Moore is repre- the woman with a fuller figure can sented by strong deep greys and rich be delightful if they
chosen golden ambers.
wisely.
Are
A velvet bodice
ii
than an
with a full net glamorous, and all-velvet
shows every
skirt is both more hardwearing dress,
Remember, velvet
mark, which any amount of steam- ing will not remove.