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THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, SATURDAY, OCTOBER 16, 1948.

WEEK-END WOMANSENSEE

The Winter Line As Fashioned In London

By JOAN ERSKINE

the smooth un- VIMPLICITY-In

cluttered line, CHARM-in the styles. flattering, youthful ELEGANCE in the superb cut and attention to detail.

This, I think, sums up the collec- tions shown recently in London. Since the "Now Look" made its first appearance, fashion has fluctuated In an amazing way. We have seen the rise and fall of the bulky skirt, tartan hips, and the the padded gaiters. Frilled bootees made their bow and disappeared, we hope, for ever. Beflowered, beribboned hals have bidden us a graceful farewell, and In their ploce we have the more the of Bevere, modern version cloche--80 pópular in the twenties,

The large soft beret, speared with in hatpins, has come on outsize into ita

again. And these hats, of course, are shown to their best advantage on the new short hair-cut, shaped to the head.

own

Judicious use was made of but- tons. A sandstone wool sult with straight double-breasted jacket and straight wrap-over skirt had double: buttoning from waist to hem.

square

One of the most beautiful dresses shown was of shepherd's plaid with white pique bow on low neckline, white pique cuffs, and swathed cummerbund, an illustrat- ed below. An unusual feature of a black formal dreas was the diagonal neckline,

Fly-away cuffs were featured on a navy wool dress with shirtmaker top, unpressed gathered box-pleals two sets of navy in the skirt and braiding round hem; and in a grey flonnel dress with Danton collar uncl tie. Here the fly-away cuffs were lined with white pique.

Coats were plain, serviceable, and beautifully cut. One, a brown and while tweed fitting top-cont had a button on fringed cape. Again, o fringed cape In bright check wool, on a short box jacket, struck

In note. Another topcoat, which I saw early this

manth, browi corduroy, had black braid- were none of the eccentricities that Ing. characterised the Paris shows, but

Length Stabilised IN the Dorville winter

collection,

extremes of fushlon had been cleverly Interpreted to sult the well-dressed woman. Fashion is never an easy thing to forecast, but I bellove the eharming, restrained stylok seen at this show will receive An enthusiastic reception from women of good taste.

for The main point of interest many was the length of the clothes. This seems to have stabilised itself the at about twelve Inches from Around a really flattering length and one which will be welcomed.

In place of the ponderous, bulky skirt is the graceful swinging one. Fullness is concentrated below the hips. Cuffs are neatly buttoned, or strikingly By-away. Back interest Is sustained by draped, semi- bustle effect; with pleating; and with n large bow on a hip cuft

I

Tiny waists are emphasised by which swathed cummerbunds,

the older cleverly combine

New Look, and the coming Empire Line. Slight padding only is used in the sulis, following the natural shoulder line. Ingenious

is made use pleating.

ONE

Use of Buttons

of

NE Sky York dress has a fixed bow at the waist, and a pleated frill round the hem of a circular skirt.

with Another has a soft bodice shawl collar and rounded shoulders. The ten-gored skirt has, five sets of pleats at the hem. A dark green Marana dress has a sunray planted bodice and skirt, bound with a deep swathed cummerbund.

Sunray pleating, too, is used in a skirt falling from a hip-cuff draped In a bow at the back of a Black Watch farlan dress. This was one of the favourite dresses shown,

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One of the most attractive suits shown had a double-breasted jacket In black and white check wool featuring cut-away points, and plain black circular skirt with check bem band (illustration at right), Im- Another, which will have an mediate appeal to the woman in the country, was a tailored, grey, knitted sult with small shawl collar and ribbed skirt.

Striking Knitwear TRIKING, among the knitwear displayed, was an off-the-shoulder

in black evening blouse

angora, exactly right for festive occasions on cold winter evenings,

Coloura were, on the whole, sub- dued. Blue, grey, donkey, sandstone. And the always popular tarian was seen to advantage in a wool dress

sleeve three-quarter

and with stiffened cuff. Tartan Was Used also for a short jacket in Murray of Athall, with a full blue velveteen pkirt.

Curves are enhanced, but not

these new British exaggerated, in designs. Originality tempered commonsense. Workmanship is of the highest quality. And the results are both wearable and flat- tering.

with

Ambitious Housewives

Can Make Talent Pay

By ELIZABETH TOOMEY

WITH a little spure time and a

rose doing housewifely knack for chores, many women have turned D talent talent for homemaking into for moneymaking.

Joseph Leeming devotes a section of his new book, "Moneymaking Hobbies," to the things a housewife can do to take advantage of a special

mude per Lalent. One woman

pairs of pot sonalised gifts, like holders in the shape of animals or flowers or vegetables. They cost her only a few cents and took her only an hour to make, but she sold them for five to seven times over tho cost.

She also made large white aprons of heavy material for men who liked to cook. They wero appliqued either with a large, red lobster or embroidered with the words, "Chlef Cook and Bottlewasher."

Another marketable product for a woman clever with a needia is a tiny ferry-cloth bib embroidered with the baby's name. Leeming described a typical woman who used

clothes coloured wash

that cost little for the blbs she made and added a blas binding and the em- broldered name.

Crocheted lingerie pins are A novelty that might find ready sales communities. as gifts Small safety pins are covered with

C

many

cotton crocheting, with a crocheted covering the bend of the pin. Any woman who has bad to pin slip strap at the last minute will get a kick out of having the fancy gad- get to make the repair job an at- fractive, if temporary, one.

n

The story of the housewife who

talent for baking into turned profitable business isn't a new one, But if the baked goods market in a town is already well filled, Leeming suggests making homemade soups for sale. He told of a widow who tried the idea when she needed ex-

with tra money and ended up profitable business.

She first put a low advertisements in local papers saying she would supply families with her own home- made soups. Before long she had a cilents who bought Ilst of steady her soups regularly, once, twice or three times a week.

For women with un outdoor bent, Leeming suggests a herb gar- den, with attractively displayed fresh herbs for sale. There is in- creasing interest in foods that use. herbs such as thyme, sage, mint, chives and teeks.

Around picking time in any town there will be સ big demand for fresh dill. The Herb Society of America puts out pamphlets of ad- vice on herb growing as a hobby or business venture.-United Press.

Dance And Keep In The Pink

By PATRICIA CLARY

DON'T diet, says Ray Bolger,

It's

the

dance. He claims world's best prescription for good health and good looks.

"A tule dancing every day will keep you in the pink of condition," said the dancer, who is good proof of his theory. A ramrod five feet 11 inches and 138 pounds at 44, Bol- ger eats five times a day it he feels like it. He is not only a great lap, satiric and eccentric dancer but eno of the speediest in show business.

Bolger puls ballet at the top of his list for building up and trim- ming down beenuse it brings all the muscles into play. Tap dancing is second and ballroom third

Painless Mathod

Any one of them, he said, is tho most painless method he knows of keeping in shape.

"I don't recommend a nightly visit to a night club for your exercise," he added. "There

plenty of dancing schools where you can learn anything you want to.

Dr

"I don't think it's unreasonable for people who drive 10 miles to go swimming to take an hour out of a day or evening for a little well- regulated donce instruction. It's good, clean fun."

Not even athletes are in as good

dance director LeRoy

Prinz, shape as dancers, Bolger Bald. Once working with Bolger in a picture. brought in six football players to do a simple jog step with six whirl- ing chorus girls.

Dancers Have Stamina

At the end of the routine, Bolger aald, the football players ware worn out. The girls weren't even out of breath.

Д

"Dancers exercize 52 weeks year." Bolger pointed out, "and ac- quired great mental and physical stamina not only from the long grind but from their joy in their work.

"Dancing is casual and relaxing. It helps people to stop taking them- selves so seriously."

The exercise of dancing helps keep you slim, and Bolger says people who dance a lot don't want to cat much starch.

"If you really work at dancing," he said, "you find yourself living by health formula. You and im- possible to dissipate, and oddly enough, you have more energy when you're dancing than when you're

not.

"Outside of a circus, have you ever Boun n fat dancer?"--United Press,

'Flapper style' model

leads 1948

*As London's busiest fashion season nears its prok, the pace quickens for

40 giris—the West End's top-flight models. Thousands of girls each year. try to get into modalling; only one in a thousand reaches the top, Hei age will be from 18 to 30; her earnings up to 30 guineas a week. Hare li an analysis of the "1948 Typa.“

OMING up on the crest of the ling. She has been a professional fashion wave for flapper styles model for two years. with no of the 1920's, with a crisp special training "I just picked it silhouette and pert, ingenuous face, up watching others"), is, model Sheila Wilson.

Statistics describe her as 21- year-old blue-eyed ash height 5ft 7in.

without

Shells has been married a year to 27-year-old ex-Battle of Britain blonde, night lieutenant Geoffrey

Kent, shoes, They live in a pint-sized

bust 3411⁄2 in., walst 234in., hips sitting room in Chelsea. 3414in.

An

Under warmer analysis her face- focal clue to her personality-hoa the porcelain perfection of eggshell, An even but colour freckled by her South af Franco vacation. Rarely, smiling, her per- feet skin, straight turned-under hals and cool blue-eyed gaze set hor apart from any other British model..

bed-

For their work, models need many accessories-shoes, hats. bags and costume jewellery-but Shella's personal wardrobe is less than the average; she keeps eight pairs of shoes at home-mainly flat heels "because they ore morc

comfor table two silts, one tailored, ong more dressy; four afternoon dresser in silk or wool, plus a few summer dresses; and one evening dress,,

A model's work is seasonal and based on a five-day week. Shella has three shows a day when busy; averages 10 a week: She gets two or three guiness show, plus extra fees for fittings. For photographie.

Nearly all her clothes are discard work, fees are £1 11s. 6d. per hour. models--left over from the previous

reason and worn by her in shows- Her working day starts with a quick breakfast she does not dlet. or new clothes from manufacturers Sho then. tets off with a small at the wholesale price. hand-case holding a pair of shoes, make-up. a big mirror and a "chiffon or scarf

models which

and Jace throw over their head while changing.

Sometimes, with late shows, the wholesald. Is modelling until 7.30 p.m.

·

Perhaps Americasol the back- ground to the way she wears her clothes Shalla, was evacuated there

A couturier-model dress at £60 would be reduced to less than a third of the price, and a controlled price £18 dress would be about £0

She has only three hats, "Dover weary one" if she can help it, but looks well in "cute" dificult-to-wear hats, bright reds, greens, black and white

She puts her straight hair in

Is a

SHEILA WILSON ·

... accent on polso

How long does a model's career Jast? As long as her particular attractiveness is in vogue. Though: her physical attractions may: bo great, the trend for a certala type of model changes,

Sheila thinks a successful model. does not need a pretty face so much as a good figure and poise. Lack of temperament, punctuality and on indefinable spark of individually bring her to the top.

What does the

the spot think as she walks, buck and worthWell," ponders Sheila, ****I Expenses, both personal and for like to see interested faces and a modelling, are bid. Her ambition certain amount of liveliness in the

when she was 13, stayed for four recently because short hair is it

Back in England, she look a year's secretarial course my shorthand and typing aren't much good now, but my French lan't bad" helped to run a war rellet fund, then left to become a trainee- buyer in a Birmingham store.

Coming to London, she was in vited to do some free-lance model

"must" this season.

in "to get a decent home together." audience some to them just sit But stockings, taxis and make-up there and look and look, not a cat up money. "although I've got a muscle moves.... good ekin and need only re-do myard

Patricia Lennard face at lunchtime."

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