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MEN'S WATER REPELLENT FABRIC raincoaTS U.S. make.. Line or Unlined.
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MEN'S LEATHER SHOES
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WOMANSENSE FULL-PAGE FEATURE
Degas Dancers' Bequest
Dior took "New Look"
from French Peasant
PARIS. Dior himself came up with
Christian Dior took the com- the answer..
mon garb of the French market "We'll have fans," he said, woman" gave it 19th century "nice big black fans with elegance and theroby treated 'Christian Dior printed on them the "New Look",
in gold letters."
That is the opinion of a mem- ber of the Dior organisation.
The fans not only circulatel. the air, but circulated the namo of Dior in practically every other fashion house in town be- cause they were such a success as souvenirs,
The feeling Dior has for 19th century art and motif has long been known, but the adaption of the costume worn by strong backed French peasant women who bring their crates of vegc- tables to the wholesale market in the room," a woman fashion "I'll never forget the sight in Paris every morning is a revola-
-writer said. "There were tion.
"If you go down to the French hundreds of black fans bobbing Market at three o'clock in the up and down like butterflies and morning," the young alde said, everyone was saying 'Christian Dior Christian Dior'.....over "you will see the dress there."
and over."
"It is a poor dress of coarse, hard-wearing material, but the lines are there. Its tight bodice
buttons down the front and
flows into a roomy skirt. Sho even wears a little thing around her neck.
"What we call the 'New Look' is not new to her," he said. "She has always worn it for comfort and utility."
DESIGNS EVERYTHING
DIOR is definitely and finally the head of the organisation he has brought to the front of the Paris fashion house picture in the brief span of 18 months.
He designs every dress him- self, taking only advice from Mme. Briano Briard, 46-year- old fashion expert who gives him the woman's viewpoint while he is working on a new
dress.
POSITION CLEAR
DIOR was born in Normandy
43 years ago and he still likes to go back to the country.
Trained for the diplomatic service, Dior disappointed his parents by changing his mind and opening an art gallery. In Paris in 1926. In 1981 he gaye that up and went to Russia to study architecture.
By 1936 he was back in Paris. He found a job on a newspaper
#8
a fashion illustrator. It waen't long thereafter until he' was designing hats.
Paris and worked as a day During the war, Dior left
labourer on the railway. He came back to Paris in 1941 and went to work for Lucien Lelong. Here Dior came into prominence by creating hobble skirts and
It is
Dior's-business-sense-has-been-rounded-drapos.-- decidedly in his favour on his In 1946 Dior's position in the sudden vault to the top. The fashion world was clear. All he 700 members of his staff are needed was the money. still laughing about the presence reported that Marcel Boussac, of mind he showed when his the French turf king, supplied Spring showings opened in that. February.
It seems the air circulation system in the new show room had not been installed in time and there was no doubt that the show was going to be a failure if the persons in the packed house had to sit in a stuffy, smoke-filled room for a couple of hours.
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Dior gave his first showing February 12, 1947, and the fashion world is still rocking from the blow. His success_WON_ stupendous.
HELD IN AWE
THE
womankind in
By PRUNELLA WOOD
a:
her
HE DEGAS ballet girls have left shortle gloves and now, we since the print is of bananas on
Chiquita Banana, and general prac. have put a lot of these items together crepe,
danson. STARTING in a small estab-tically everything the great painter to make very formal modern facks.
.naturally comes to mind,
ddditionally lishment on
by the This department confesses that to prompted the Avenue invested them with, except, perhaps, her, the model shown above and Spanish lace petticoat. At any rate. Montaigne, Christian Dior now their twinkle-too talents. We have led Degas looks a good deal more it's very feminine, and in step with occupies three buildings and is borrowed their skirts, waistline Indebled to the cancan than the bal- the revival of afternoon dancing trying to get a fourth.
corsets, bodices, slippers, hairdos and let, but she refuses to worry. Also, which is growing ever more popular.
Despite the size of the staff, If you ordered a dress from Christian Dior today, you would have to wait six weeks for the first fitting.
The same pleasant atmos- phere that goes into Dior's 19th century apartment in Paris pre- vails throughout his business. The furnishings, walls, stair ways and all take you back 50 years. Dior ordered it made that way.
His employees speak of Dior in awe.
"New Look".
EFORE you choose your spring clothes, sit down and have a self-searching think.
Consider.
1. Whether you have a naturally rounded bosom and hips, a truly slender waist, and the carriage of on Elizabethan grande dame....
2. Whether you have the manner of the aforesată grand dame,,
without looking even faintly like a 3. Whether you can wear a fringe period plece.
•
but can I wear it?
By Caroline Fox
But-if-the-answer-Is-No" then think again, and carefully. It is alarmingly easy for the new clothes
to look a mess.
Carefully chosen with an eye to
and their moderation
suitability for day-to-day living, they are charming.
When asked if anyone ever sent suggestions for new dresses
The longer skirts are graceful, the up to Dior, one of his young
fuller skirts are youthful, the gentle assistants looked startled and It the answer is "Yes," go right curve of hips and bosom is agreeably
ahead. exclaimed: "Would you send a
You can't go wrong, even in feminine after these militant, mascu memorandum up to God?"-As-it wouldn't matter it you did, any-
pearl-buttoned boots. (And, frankly, line years.
Bociated Press,
way).
Children about turn ́
But wise women wil cachew any suspicion of exaggeration.
A low neckline may be fetching -but it doesn't look right on Cats Street,
A white broderie anglaise petti- coat is fresh and white only when it doesn't have to clamber on buses. A boldly stiffened bustle is pretty, but comfortable only if you don't
THE well-dressed children of today wear classically styled clothes, primly reminiscent of the past. Fully party frocks on a narrow smocked yoke button down the back, preferably with tiny pearl but-have to sit upon it.
tons. Peter Pan collar, puffed sleeves and a minia- ture dolly-bag pocke holding 1 clean handkerchief, long white socks and shiny patent leather shoes Iden- tify the party
under 10.
Hip emphasis is fine, if it does not emphasise a 40-inch hip. Tight little, izim little bodices should only grace a trim little bosom.
And a too-long skirt merely collects mud splashes if you venture out in the rain!
Such accessories as shepherd's plaid bootees and parasols are fun in Paris salons, but tend to look ex- girl-tremely odd on Hongkong pave-.
ments.
Main outlet for "Off" the new line
creative design
In
}
yellow
black, with white or red.
or
Kendrick
white. Navy--
Black and white, and black and
-green.' is.RUT there are many good variations pink. Yellows. A little
Don the new line which are prac- Not much blue other than navy-
pale blue for tical, because they can be adapted as and a the line changes. ...
Juvenile clothes through colour, fabrle and careful use of detail.
Leti, one of the and prettiest
dresses cheapest seen for some time Ula utility
is
"Judy dress. The fabric is haircord banded with
Tyro- Ican Agures, the pattern used to add Interest to the bodica.
Jincns,
summer
Bulls whose skirt fullness la given The ruft Kendrick has illustrated by plents either flat pleats or un- symbolises the best of the moderated have new line.... The shoulders aro Pressed pleato; whoso Jackets only slight hip suffening which can slightly curved, the jacket is rather .be removed later..
short, with the lips emphasised only
Fitted coats, with fullness coming by clever placing of pockets, the from pleats or gathers of the back skirt has all-round flat pleats.. Waist Loose coats, with fullness There have been reports of from the back shoulder line.
people taking the new long
Straight snc Jackets over long clothes back to the shops to bo tight skirts. Boleros. Simple frocks shortened, I think this
applios with full gathered skirts, and only to a low, who bought extreme bodices fitted up to the thront.
slyics. Printed fracks, frocks-with-
Postscript Jackets, or Bults with full pleated
newe that padding skirts, and pleated basques which can now be bought for almost any Right, is a smart four-piece for girls from 7 to 13 years old. Here, can be taken off when necessary, part of the anatomy recalls to mind of the 18th- again, coleur and material are effective; palest sliver-blue barathea Three-quarter length sleeves over the sad little story serge lined in cherry wine crepe to match the blouse. The Jacket is light, light, long sleeves which are century beau who pinned a rose to his Indy's bosom and, horrifled, saw collarless, the skirt on braces and pleated"all" round. The coat is Favourite and most wearable the bosom deflate before his very
classic, seamed down the centre back, with semi-dolman sleeves-colours are grey, with pink, with eyes!
also removable.