EVERY SATURDAY
W
THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 15, 1947.
WOMANSENSE
What an idea will do
By Anne Edwards
But for the moment forget the any language, but especlnily t menna controversy. Get out of your mind dollars. Nearly overy Paris-visiting your personal view of whether you American woman who is wealthy a like the longer skirt or hate it. Think enough buys frocks from him,
of clothes in terms of big-scale in- dustry.
HEN the Queen Elizabeth docked at Southampton recently, among the pas sengers stepping ashore was tubby little man (height 2ins.) whose inspiration pulled out of the fire the largest industry in France.
5ft.
has Afth
He had been in America put- ting the fillip of his presence to un idea which will bring dollars rolling into
*
UK OUT
story begins on February 12 salon in Paris. There Dior pul on his first show of 87 Hut instead of the tailored, dresses. tapered musculine women of the last 15 years his mannequins were femi-
sloping-shouldered. nine. waisted and hippy, without a flat line In their bodies.
has wal France. He resold America' on the "made in Paris." Because his name, people in are ready to buy French-made textiles, gloves, shoes, buttons, bags.
Flis "mock-ups" (along with yards of French textiles to make them up) are sold at fantastic prices all over the States.
In America the four-billion-dollar dress industry is turning out over 1 million dresses a week, most of them
can go Dlor-Inspired. You
int almost any stress shop in Hollywood or Brussels, San Francisco or Lon- don, and buy wasp-
any price level, from £180 for original in Paris down to a 35. copy la Macy's.
cach
tag The effect was sensational. Buyers of who for two years since the war had come to Paris, seen the collections, America but refused to buy fell over
other to secure these models, cheer. fully paid up to £250 apiece.
At his second show on August 0 Dior established himself as the lead iK
designer
of his day, བྱཱསཱིཀདྡཱཐཱ ཚཱསྨཱསུ
American orders, and kyleel his The name, of course. (s Dior virtually saved the dress industry in Christian Dior. the man who started Froner. Fashion on the scale of this man's success is big money in
the long-skirt controversy.
IN
Learn to grow old gracefully
N spite of the fact that so many of us kok forward to the day when
putter we can around a home or garden and not have to turn on the alarm, it's dawning on authorities on how to grow old gracefully that folk are not prepared for those carefree retirement days.
That men find more shoals and reefs in the waters of re-
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a Dior Girl dress al
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13
any- NOW, have we, in Britain,
ona who could give our fashion export drive a shot In the armi stimulating as the one given by the litle man wino stepped off the Queen Elizabeth?
In Princess Elizabeth we have H fashion leader who rates higher than any other personality with the Americans.
Anything which the Princess wears or uses personally has a ready-made! market in the States.
Already her pearls have been copied, her ring has been copied, and·| it is known that her wedding dress will be copied within a matter. I hours after its first appearance.
FULL-PAGE FEATURE
LONGER, SHORTER...YET
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It is Impossible to estimate the enormous yardage of her wedding
The low
square or trousseau materials (actual or
Yet one of pink HE same length? THE which could have near coples)
neckline,
three-quarter pushup dress is "long." the other been sold there already. 11 would have been possible to give the "short." Both are
revolu- seuson's shorter, fuller evening dress. biggest-yet host by the fashiontionary and both from Paris. Many of the Paris fashions were dollar drive.
either too extreme or damboyant, But-much more important-the Paris dress shows fentare a But, in spite of long-short-skirt
and prestige given
de- publicity
have longer skirt by day. But by controversy, these two dresses
serve approval for being ahead of British-made fashions would simulated the whole American mar-night the hemline rises ankle- current fashion without giving
length or above. Here, there shock that forward fashion Unfortunately, an atmosphere ol
fore, is where the two meet: mystery is preserved about every-
Elizabeth wears on Time, 7 p.m.: place, 3 to 4in." thing Princess private or publie ocensions.
above the ankle.
By DORIS BLAKE firement than women is told by George Lawton and Maxwell S. Stewart in
A public affairs "When You pamphlet entitled Grow Older.". As one man said after the farewell dinner given
of his retirement:ket. on the eve "They covered me with garlands and then exiled me from the human race and sent me off into the wilderness,"
A taival man trains himself for a
single Job which talls for skills that destin with age, our authorities state. With this job he ties up his entree existinee and sees of impor- tance, to say nothing of his carning capacity, When the job govs, every thing else goes. He needs somethlin to take the place of his former daily tarks and antivitis, needs to pit his wits against practical problems and compete in a test of skill or strength. Success in such a situation is what makes him feel he is all the should Being worsted by a competitor is, to eatastrophe, but being denied an opportunity to compete is much
be.
FINANCIAL planning for retire-
inent is enton enough but planning for use of the free time is due for greater consideration. As our authorities say:
Many men and women, success- ful in business, the arts, or the pro- trestom, look forward to their fifties
s a time when they
their working day
for asylum to their farm, their ten zere isla e, There sey read, de httle gardening, mingle
with
flee and
can reduce
the
natives
ves and imagine they have learned the lesson of growing old Actunity this is how
Fracefully to grow old disgracefully. It is one thing to get away from the city and the tension of the job mid refre oneself before returning lo one's faks.
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It makes it difficult for the Prin- cess to bring prestige to British tex-
Just the thing for the younger ties, designers, and styling when
woman is the deceptively sober black any accurate description is officially satin dress (left) by Maggy Rouf, forbidden.
with its upstanding white Inco colé
cuffs. It makes it difficult for Americanar and elbow-length
The firms to place orders for materials, murdmum waist is achieved through or to order copies of her dress, when bodice that is practically painted
exactly no one knows
what the on the figure, a waist corselet and- material or the frock is like.
mest effective of all-four godels of fan pleats that begla at the of either hip bone, back and front,
fullness to and give pyramid
The
TH
भ * ★ His brings me back to Carisum
Dior. He has proved that rect industry of women's always needs the inspiration of fashion lender.
this clothes
corner
On the right is the short evening airess by Christian Dior, good enough to eat, in white inca over palest grey
Britain has a leader, Why can't silk foundation, Pale pink satin de- we let her leadership shine?
fine the waist. to match the spray
Robb PREVIEWS
SOME OF THE HATS
FOR THE WEDDING
the IN his workroom in Hano ver-square,
man who makes hats for the Queen and the Princesses gave Robb, a tip-off on hats that will hit the limelight at the royal wedding.
The four styles he has drawn here have all been or- dered to be ready by November 20. Latest on the royal hat colours: The Queen's favourites are pale beige, greys, and cream mixed with pink. The Princess has ordered mist blues to match her going-away outfit.
Favoured trends are for the new wide berets, mostly folded and draped to give an east-to-west look or balloon- ed above a brim like a 1900 motoring hat.
The fells for these hats are of a new design, and made in an exceptionally light-weight material which is more supple--and more easily moulded-than an ordinary felt. British milliners, anticipating a heavy demand for the royal wedding berets, are already making hundreds of hats from the new felts.
Typical of the Brimmda Beret can be worn fat and straight for a thin face or. gown-pulled on one side for a plump face.
The Pumpkin Deret has a
and squared crown
narrow brini. Brim is same colour as the drape of velvet ribbon. Good for the narrow face.
Bow Beret, very flat.and wide, it made of draped felt. Folded like a bow in front, fi'n a flatter version of a line・・ already born by the Queen.
Helet Beret, velvet with New fashion tagets ribbon, note: the ttoo-fabric, fr0o-colour gloves in aamie matertols and colours as the hat.
brings.
the often
The things they do for good looks
THE average customer of beauty salons spends £10 a-year-on her beauty prepara- tions and £21 on her hair. But in the West End salons it is not uncommon for regular clients to spend £250 a year on their faces, hands and bodies; £100 would be reckoned moderate for a year's bill at a Mayfair hair- dresser..
Younger women are seeking the ald of beauty parlours to keep their tools.
of In one salon 75 percent the regular clients are young women. Verdict of most of the experts is that young skins are not what they used to be.
New treatments have been evolved to deal with dry skin. One is "oxylation"-fresh oxygen sprayed into the skin.
Make-up experts predlet that the pinky make-ups of the summer will last through the winter, largely bc- cause "men approve." Heavy, paint- ed make-ups are out; soft, natural colours, are popular among all ages.
There is also a demand dor stronger perfumed products.
BROKEN NAILS
To the Hund and Nail Institute in Bond-streel flock women bewalling their broken, splitting nails worn, roughened hands.
and
hardl
$mails
Unaccustomed housework, London water, and an unbalanced diet help to produce hand and nall trouble. Most common complaint is paranyehla, where the cuticles swell and become inflamed and the spilt and sometimes fall off: Queue Ing. and tedious shopping hours have
on women's had an effect Chiropodists say that many feet have spread and nearly every work- ing woinan now takes a shoe 'one alre larger than before the war.
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According to one of the National Shopping Surveys, 70 percent of women do not paint their nails. But the remaining 30 percent this winter will choose the paler pastel tones.
Hair this winter, say the Mayfair hair dictators, will be short-four to six inches, Long bobs, they say, are finished. False buns are here to alay, particularly for evening wear. Strong dyes are also out. More women are having special rinses, to bring out the soft pastel lights and disguise grey hairs.
The cold perm has arrived. One hairdressing salon in Mayfair - gives 10 cold perms (£0 08, cach) to every live by the hot system (£5 5s, each).}
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