Thursday,

HONGKONG TELEGRAPH

DONALD

"YOU CAN'T GO WALKING WITH ME IF YOU BRING THAT

LOW-BROWED,

RUFFIANLY ALLEY CUR ...AND THAT'S FINAL!

DUCK

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By Walt Disney

DISNEY.

By Lichty Continuing H. V. MORTON'S description of

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Count the TELEGRAPHS"

everywhere

The

YOD sends ment, but the

"G devil sends cooks" is a

sentiment which has been en- shrined in the proverbs of England, Holland and Italy: and probably other countries as well.

Cooking is not an easy art: It is a difficult vocation, and the good food that is so often ruined in the kitchen is proof of it.

Of all branches of cookery that of Army cooking is prob- ably the most difficult, and certainly the most criticised.. In the last war I encountered Army cooking that was good, fair and unspeakable.

In the cook-house' I found men too dirty and hopeless for ordinary duties, who had been sent there in order to get them out of the way; and I am sure that other soldiers of that period must have met them too.

Willing To Praise

Then I found good cooks ruined by bad conditions, and others blunted and whelmed-by-tho-ondless char acter of their task.

over-

It is true, I think; that in order to be a good Army cook a man requires a genuine in- terest in cooking, organising ability, a reformer's courage, a high standard of conduct, and a sense of responsibility.

In other words, Army cook- ery is a job thut should not be undertaken by a man in order to escape from other less seam- ingly pleasant, or more ardu- ous, duties: it is hard work. responsible work, and should be tackled with scientific fer- Your.:

Everybody is pathetically anxious that a cook should be good. People are only ton willing to praise him. Surely no fuer military distinction could be obtained than that of a cook loved by his comrades!

There should be a special decora- tion for him; or possibly such rare distinction is its own reward!

Revolution

+

It is not perhaps known that two years ago a great revolution took place in Army cookery, although I am prepared to hear many sol- diers say they have not noticed it.

In 1038 the whole problem was reviewed, and almost enough money was spent, and expert opinion en- unged, to reform the cooking of the entire nation..

In that year it was deelded to appoint experienced civilian chefs and restaurant experts as instruc- tors at the Amy School of Cook- ery, Aldershot.

A magnificent new building was designed, nnd was opened à lew weeks ago, where 800 pupils can be taught at one time."

1

The kitchens at this school are modelled an those of a great hotel; but I could not look at the fabul ously expensive equipment installed there without -wondering if it was hot, after all, a scandalous waste of money

For no ordinary 'Army: cook, hav ing completed his course there, will ever sen anything like, those gleam-

ing kitchens again, align

Army

Still, the critic, appalled by the hotel ranges, the long vistas of pre- cious aluminium, the electric plate- washing machines, the steam-heat- ed tea machines, is silenced by be- ing taken from this ideal world into the open air, where cooks are stirring dixles on home-made fres and bending with smarting eyes over our old friend, the field kit- chen.

So, you see, 'nt the Army School of Cookery the real oud the ideal are in close proximity, and all the taxpayer can do is to wonder whe- ther the Ideal has not, like Army beef, been over-done.

The theory is that A constant stream of Army cooks shall poss through Aldershot, carrying back an. expert knowledge of cookery their units in all commands.

to

I

In theory, every unit that sends Ja, man to the Aldershot course should have no more cookery frou- bles.

I wonder if this is £0.

Stiff Course

The cooks at this school are of several grades.

#

There is the man who was a cook in civilian life. He is taking three months', course in order to qualify for traderman's pay, as laid down in an Ariny Order of 1839.

This is a stiff course and a man docanot usually pass it unless he has had from three to five years' experience of civilian cooking.

Then there are sergeant cooks. emergency cooks, and A.TS, cooks, all of whom go through a course in real and ideal cookery, spend- ing a portion of their time in the Ritz, as it were, and the rest in the yard outside with the dixies. ̧

These return to thele units to put their knowledge into "pručtice after n course of free five to six weeks. A new development is a three months course für hospital cooks.

In addition to practical cookery, messing officers, are given a two weeks' course in subjects connected with food, ralions and waste; and there should be a messing officer to every unit of 500 men.

How vast is the whole problem of Army cooking can be judged. from the fact that out of every 50 men called up, one should be train- ed us a cook. So that in an Army of 2,000,000 men, 40,000 are cooks! It cooking is not yet first-class throughout the Army, it is cer- tainly not the fault of the Army School.

Its standards are those of a good hotel, and it is inspired by the re- former's zeal

To enter this school, still more, to have lunch at the Commandant's table, is to enter a world where Army rations become instantly de- Hielous and appetising, codiced in that aluminium palace and under the scrutiny of chefs in high while caps and check trousers.

But, after all, the test is: do cooks return from the School able to put their knowledge into prac- tice? And, If not, why?

Orderlies Blamed

There is a story of a sergeant · cook who greeted one of his cooks, newly returned from a course, with:

"Well, Brown, and what did they teach you at the school?";

Brown plunged into an earnest account of 'soups, entrees, roasts, sweets and a number of fancy at tainments

___"Well," forget it," sold the ser- 'geant." "and" goönd, peel them. 1,spudsi".

** die will generally and himself lag-? Whether there le any truth in

the rat-aunted basement of a

derelict country House-ca

'this' story," or not, it suggests that

a cook returning from a cookery

Cook

course. may be either chilled of encouragedi

Cooks, with whom I have dis- cussed Army cookery, say that the problem is not how to cook the food, but how to get It in good condition from the kitchen to the,

men.

Some cooks blome mess orderlies for making good food unappetising by slopping out #spoonful of potato, piling cabbage on top, lng- Ing out a slice of meat and adding a generous splash of gravy to the mixture.

I should have thought that troops cauld have dealt with this in their own inimitable way,

Other cooks say that bad cook- ing conditions and the perpetual grind-get them down,

"If you could see the dinners of

a thousand ment" said one. "im- agine the potatoes alone! It's very easy to get the wind up when you're cooking in the Army, and, because you're afraid of being late, starting too suon and over-cooking everything."

But surely the cook who gets the wind up ought to be given a change of employment In these days when the Army claims to And the right man for the right. Job!

The more you examine the ques- tion_of_cooking in the Army, the more you realise that something which is supremely simple in theory becomes in practice ceedingly difficult,

CX-

Almost everybody

been has blamed for this, from the colonel and the orderly offlcer down to the man who lights the cook- house fire; yet none of these is really a convincing scapegoat,

Hope

It may be that the improvement in cooking which, I am told, is percepilble in spite of all that I have said, may eventually sprend from the School of Cookery. "right through the Army.

That, at least, is the pious Jope' of the reformers,

And I can tell Army cooks that, ayn reward for Ueir zeal, Kis possible that one of these days they may be granted the right to put up an attractive arm-badge. This is the new crest of the Army School of Cookery,

Its history is as follows. Some :monlig

the ngo

Commandant, Thinking that Army Cookery de- served a distinctive badge, sent up to the War Office a rough sketchi showing an electric slove above a wreath of bay leaves,

Award It!

When it arrived at the War Office, an adviser in catering.ob- jected to it because the stove was not of the most modern pattern,” The design then came to Gorter King at Arms, who said that the stove was not sufficiently archale! He therefore designed a new crest.

This shows a circle containing a conventional Greek cooking-pot surrounded by golden. James, and on top of the afrels is the Crown, and below is a wreath with the molio "Escam in tempore"food in time,

This attractive crest - is, so for as I know, the only new one grant- ed to the Army, since the Wor.

It would be a good mave if the War: Office would permit cools to wear it.

At the moment they can slink about unidentified by their critics.

~~TO-MORROW

The Tank Gunnor

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