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Wednesday,
HONGKONG TELEGRAPH
STUDEBAKER
July 3, 1940.
Below, the "Telegraph" publishes an exclusive story
CHAMPION! of the greatest feat in history, told by the man who undertook it-Major General E. F. Norton, Governor-designate
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at 5.30 p.m. to-day. wishing to send flowers please send instead donations for: Madame Chiang Kal Shek's War Orphans to Mr. C. C. Chang, 112 Hongkong & Shanghai Bank Building).
The
Hongkong Telegraph.
Wednesday, July 3, 1940. Wyndham St., Hongkong Telephone: 20015
THE prex "Special to the Talagraph" is used by the longkong Telegraph' to indicate news which is strictly copyright under wo provisions of the Telecommuni- calions Ordinance, 1030. Etch news as bears the indication "UP” is received in Hongkong on the date of publication by the United Presa Marociations, who re- serve all rights and forbid zapublication, either wholly or in part without previous arrangement.
Sweden Between wants
of Hongkong
MAN WHO LED THE 1924
One consequence of the German success in Norway Is the virtual Isolution of Sweden from the West. The Swedes row are hemmed in with! Germany at one elbow and Russin at the other. That is noi coinfortable position. It is dangerous; yet not so dangerous as some observers suppose. The Third Reich
and
the.
Soviel Union are reported to have reached an agreement to keep Sweden neutral h the present wat If this is 507, Sweden is not entirely at the mercy of Germany, even though Russion military power may seem relatively unimportant since the Russo-Finnish
war.
EVEREST
EXPEDITION
IS OUR NEW GOVERNOR
"THREE members of the Everest Expedition, Mallory, Somervell and Norton, on May 21 reached an altitude of 28,800 feet, the highest ever reached by man, and just 2,200 feet, below the summit of Mount Everest."
This message, which reached civilisation by a roundabout way on a day in June, 1924, gives a key to the brilliant career of Hongkong's new inilitary Governor, Major General E. F. Norton.
Major General (then Colonel! Norton led the famous 1924 Ex- pedition to Mount Everest.
With Dr. Howard Somervell and Mr. George H. Leigh-Mallory he climbed to a height never before or since attained by man.
The 258
assault on the summit ended In defeat, but It was- the most brilliant fent of mountaincering ever achieved,
The 1924 expedition was origin- ally led by General Bruce, who retired in favour of Colonel Norton owing to -health.
In the final fatal climb Leigh- Mallory and Mr. A. C. Irvine died.
An oxygen mask saved the fe of Colonel Norton, who to-day has the distinction of being the only man alive who have climbed above 28,000 feet. In the fatal last stand the climb, when the FUSE
advance party reached to 2200 feet of the summit, the speed of ascent was about 400 fect an hour; Colone? Norton was forced to give up when he became completely snow-blind.
THE story of Hongkong's new Governor's part in the famous cx- pedition is best told in the words of his co-mountaineers and of him- self
In the last despatch from the climbers before, the death of Mal- lory and Irvine, Colonel Norton told of the attempts to scale the glacier near the summit, with the thermometer registering 24 degrees below zero. This despatch was concluded by Mallory who wrote, Just
his death: before The issue will shortly be decid- ed. The third time we walk up East Rongbuk Glacier will be the lust, for better or worse. We have counted our wounded and know roughly how much to strike off the strength our little party. We expect no mercy from Everest."
The subsequent struggle was de- elded by Col, Norton in the follow- ing despatch ta the London
"I
"Timestate this despatch from
"No.
Russla does not have to command overwhelming military force to make Camp 3 I say 'dicinle since I its wishes respected in the Baltic area. um unable to write myself, as I am For the Kremlin has already shown just recovering from an acute at- Ποιν determined it is to
tack of snow-blindness. secure its position there. For example, one of the curliest defeats for Reichsführer Hitler's polley of protecting all Ger- sustained in the Ballic Was regions at Russia's hands. Just after the Berlin-Moscow pact was signed thousands of Germante people were called "home" to the Reich from areas they had inhablled for hun dreds
reds of years.
Busalan influence to-day is condi~- tloned by the approximately equal bulance of power as between the Allies and the Third Reich. A threat to choose sides in the war at- tracts respectful attention even in
in the most arrogant belligerent circles.
Had the Soviet, leaders assumed that German success in Norway would threaten' their position In the Baltic, they would have moved
moved when to invade Scandinavia. Germany did to Indeed, one
of the
that Scan- neutrals everywhere weers, among dinavia might be crushed in a'Russo- German military pincer. The Rus sians did not move. Whether they counted on a better showing by the Ailled forces, or on the potency of their own diplomatic position is not) clear. But in the absence of the former they have been able to fall back on the latter to
to protect their interests,
In view of the present
esent situation in Norway, and of
of the reported Russo- German agreement over Sweden, Russian activitica in the Balkans Bequire particular interest, Russları advances into Bessarable are inter- preted widely in the Balkans as part
a move to check Rome-Berlin Axis pressures in that region. While Soviet leaders may have almed these manoeuvres chiefly at Italy, they also served to build up a
a Russion bargoin- ing position vis-a-vis Germany.
any rate,.t
the guarantee
of
cat.
"Geoffrey Bruce, jack-of-all- trades, 16 my secretary. Both of us, having had a go at high al- titudes, feel that this particular kind of work for the moment is what, sults us. Every eye on camp ja turned on the final pyramid.
The party sele
selected for the first two assaults were Mallory, Bruce and Somervell; myself, with Odell und Irvine, supporting.
תק
"Once past the jumble of the crevasse and seracs separating Camp No. 4 from True Col, a bitter north-west wind, and one of the most formidable foes we have to face on Mount Everest, smote the little Durly the flank..
This wind must, be felt to be appreciated. Every member of the party was equipped with every device of windproof cloth- ing that experience could invent, yet such was the keenness of the wind that it appeared to have the double quality of both penetrat- Ing through and yet nearly blow- Ing the laden porters out of their steps.
"Progress up the North Ridge does not lend itself to description, It is fight against wind and alti- tude, generally on rock, sometimes on snow, at an average angle of 45 degrees. It will appeal to those. who have ever tried mountaineer- ing above 23,000 feet,
At about 25,000 feet, the endur- ance of the porters began to flag and of eight of them only four annde Camp. No. 6 under their own team. The remainder deposited their loads, unable to go on.
"Camp No. 5 was now estab- Hshed two fragile ten-pound tent- lets perched on an almost preel- pitous slope, The tents occupied by the non-oxygefi party in 1922,
To-h neutrality evidently does collapsed and held in position by
rotectorate
the
not lle solely with Berlin. Russia is blg stones, were clearly seen 220 reported party to it, and is a party feet below. According to plan, dva that enn become troublesome in many porters, now returned to Camp No. quarters should German interests in
4 three picked ones being retained show signs of developing into to sleep the night, and carry
complexToe Rus-
camp some 2,000 feet higher on alons
complained that Ger- the morrow. many's Norwegian thrust was taken "Obviously everything.depended without regard for Rugalan suscoupon the ph
physical condition and the tibilities. Apparently, Soviet diple- morale of these three men. The macyTM has decided to put a padlock, most persuasive powers of Bruce on Baltie doors before analher-horse could, éllel little enthusiýam, from: Is-stolen..
them as to their next day's, tosk,
Apparently the wind had taken the heart out of them. With no rosy anticipations tha party went to bed, with the sun si gliding the tops
of the surrounding mountains, after the truly miserable, but in- evitable routine in high altitudes of cooking dinner.
on
make "It was intended to early start the next morning. This hus been done. Therefore it is not impossible. But when Tibetan porters are concerned, it certainly. approaches the limits of the pos- sible. Maiting a long story short, a series of visits to the men's teat, while the white climbers break- fast was being prepared, produced, In the end, nothing bul the most unwelcome information that only one was it to proceed. The other
minute to regain our breath we at-
lained sunlight and soon began to bo warm. We crossed a snowy patch with Norton gallantly chip- ping steps in front, and reached the
bank dread yellow
of rock which is such a conspicuous feature in dis- tani vlaws of the mountain.
50.
up
"This rock was weathered into horizontal ledges, come ten or more feet wide, and provided a safe and casy route toward the summit ridge.
these ledges we went, pulling ourselves, withy heavy breathing, from one to another and walking along them occasionally for respite, and always keeping up- ward and to the right, hoping by. these means to avoid some of the loose-looking rock on the north-
two profest to be sick, and totally eastern ridge above was beginning
unable to carry a load.
"Bruce talks their language fluently, has a great influence over them, and there was not the slight- est doubt that if anybody could have stimulated them to go on !! was he It was
as fairly evident that the three parters had shot their boli, and that nothing more was to be got out of them. After a brief consultation it was decided to return to Camp No. 4..
SOMERVELL and Norton, going up, met the disappointed climbers on the way down. "We had not been going long." reports Somer- vell, who writes this of
purt
the narrative,
"when Mallory and Bruce and their porters appeared above, coming down fast, an ex- unwelcome sight."
and
pectcll's narrative of his own
and Norton's attempt to reach the summit continues:
"Very apprehensive as to the at- titude of our own porters on the and I plugged morrow, Norton along up an easy scree of shoulder leading for over 4,000 feet from North Col' up toward the north- castern summit ridge of Everest. We found Mallory and Bruce's tents pitched an the steep but shel- tun tered southeastern side of the
shoulder.
"Keeping four of our porters in camp, where they spent the night
space six feet by five feet, we then proceeded to settle down in the other tent of similar size. The floor had been levelled by our pre- and after making a
good
des of permican and bully bret. coffee and biscuits, we spent a fair night, during at least half of which we slept, linding no dis- comfort from the altitude or dim- culty in breathing.
"Another glorious, sunny day followed, and we were delighted to find three of the porters willing to proceed and carry loads, tenta, bedding and food, to the next stage. One porter especially deserves credit, as he had cut his knee rather deeply on a stone the pre- vicus
evening.
Finally
at a height of 20,700 feel, in a rocky little basin on the ridge, we had to stop and pitch our tent. The situation was far from ideal, but it seemed the best avail-" able in the vicinity, and on Everest you have got to take what you can get and be thankful.
"In our tiny tent we cooked a good
brew of coffee and a little soup, but the altitude was attack- ing our appetite, and we could not fancy more than a morsel of solid food. Filling the thermos
with coffee for the morrow in order to avold having to cook before an early start, we settled down to
for the night. Both of wa were surprised; we got some sleep, at any rate, though not very much; but when morning arrived we were well rested and untroubled by breathing and the other, effects of the great altitude.
"We got 1.
got up full of hope as dawn was breaking; but there was an carly disappointment. Alas! the thermos had shed: its cork during the night and we had to waste nearly an hour melting snow in order to make more liquid. For both
of us remembered how in 1822, at a somewhat similar alt tude thirst above everything de- stroyed stamina and going power, und wo were determined to start. our
Bul
climb with plenty of fuld Inside use
“At last we got going about 0.45 a.m.
and trudged slowly up the ́brond," rocky shoulder slanting across toward our, right in the direction of the summit, for there the going seemed "easiest. ⠀-More- over, in that, direction was a patchi of sunlight. side of the ridge was in ahndow and very cold, and we thought climbing in the sun. thine correspondingly attractivo,
"At length, panting, puffing and.. sometimes slipping back on the scree and compelled to stop for a
"But the altitude
to tell severely on us. At about 27,500 feet there was an almost sud- den change. A
A little lower down we could walk comfortably,
taking three or four breaths for each step, but now seven, eight or ten com- plete respirations were necessary for every single step forward. Even at this slow rate of progress we had to Indulge in a rest for minute or two at every twenty or thirty yards. In fact we were get- ting to the limit of
of our endurance.
a
"At a level of somewhere about 20,000 feet I told Norton I could' only hinder him and his chance of reaching the summit if I tried to go any further, as an intensely soro throat added greatly to the misery of my fight. I suggested he should elimb the mountain, if he could, by himself, and settled down on a
sunny lodge to watch him do it.
But, Norton himself
was not fac
from the end of his tether. From
my, seat I watched him slowly rise but how slowly! and after an hour I doubt who- ther he had risen eight feet above my level. my
"He realized that a successful Issue to the fight was impossible,
and after a little returned. We agreed reluctantly that the game was up. So with our heavy hearts beating over 100 to the minute wo returned and retraced our steps, but slowly, for even a downhill level is rather movement at this hard and breathless work and both of us required frequent rests.
"The view from the topmost point that we resched, and
Indeed all the way up, was quite beyond words for its extent and magni- fcence.
Gynching and Chouyo, among the highest mountains of the world, were over 1,000 feet be- neath us. Around them we saw a perfect cea of fine peaks, all giants among mountains, all as dwarts below us.
"We reached camp No. 4 út 9.30 pm. Within an hour we were fed. warmed and fast asleep, Norton still recovering from severe snow blindness, unfortunately contracted on the climb. I can almost spook aloud again. We are both rather done in, too, in general condition, but are satisfied that we
we had the weather and
a good opportunity for There a fight with ou
our adversary Is nothing complain of.
"We now await news of Mallory and Irvine, who to-day are making another attempt, hoping that they may reinforce the feeble summit air by artificially provided oxygen, and by its means be able to con- quer the chief difficulty of reaching the summit. May the genie of the steel bottle sid them.' All of us, are hoping he may, for nobody deserves the summit more thin Mallory, the only one of our num- ber who has been at it for three years."
*
SOMERVELL'S story ends here, and Colonel Norton takes up the narrative, concluding with brici mention of the accident to Mallory and Irvine. The leader of the expedition writes:
Two attempts without oxygen failed to reach the summit. I was delighted to find on our arrival at Camp on the night of June 4 that Mallory had rightly deter mined, in
my
absence, that there must be one more attempt, and that Immediately,
and, if
possible, with oxygen condition of whose
"Bruce, the
heart definitely prevented him from taking part in another at tempt, had already gone down to Comp
3 to see if it were possible to supply sumelent porters to put on so as to make the attempt with an absolutely minimum load.
dxygen,
on the most defective of oxygen opparatus fully Justined his in- clusion in the party.
"On the morning of June 6 there two, with eight porters, started for Camp No. 5, intending to sleep the following night at Comp No. 6 and to make the assault on the summit to-dny. Their movements are shrouded in the mist of mystery:
but one brief note reached us from their perch near the top of the North Ridge by the hand of a returning porter. It is to the effect that Noel, with the cinema, should be on the lookout for them about the base of the final pyramid that starts 650 feet from the top, at B o'clock this morning.
"Returning porters report that the pair were going exceedingly strong with oxygen yesterday. From every point of view the situation is dramatic.
"One more small incident is worth noting. During the night of June 4-5 on North Col I was smitten with neute. «nowblled- ness, and for sixty · hours waa completely and absolutely blind.
"At 10 am, on June 6 Hingston and two porters arrived fom Camp No. 3 to relieve and, if possible, escort me down. I was anxious to descend, as my presence at Crump No. 4 could only be an embarrass- mcut to Odell and Hazard, who had now taken the place of Irvine in the role of supporters.
"Hingston being unable at the moment to perform the miracle of restoring my sight, performed, with the help of Hazard and two porters. another miracle. The route to North Col is admittedly an Alpine Climb. They shepherded me down some 1,500 feet of sheer lee and snow, placing my every footstep, leading me by the hand and sup-.. porting me with ropes fixt and un- Axt with complete security.
"Hazard turned back after rep- ing me from the top of the chimney to the bottom and Hingston saw me the rest of the way into Camp No. 3. Hingston is a famous goer on a hillside and bus limited experience of snow and ice conditions on the Pamirs, but he has never done.any.
I think it must Alpine climbing, so be admitted his performance was remarkable, and it was certainly one I shall not forget in a hurry.
With deepest regret I add these few lines continuing the above dispatch Mallory and Irvine perished on the mountain beyond all doubt. They were last seen by Odell from Camp No. 6 going strong for the top.
The only likely explanation of the tragedy is that there was mountaineering, accident, uncon- nected with questions of the wen- ther or the use of oxygen. This is borne
out by our own observations, four days previously, of the nature of the ground they were crossing when last seen.
"I remained at Camp No. 3, directing operations by messenger and watching for signals through a telescope until 4.30 in the after- noon of the 10th, by which time I saw Odell reach Camp No. 4 safely. My condition and that of Captain Bruce, the only climber with me, precluded our reaching Comp, No. 3 in time to be of any help, and beyond a letter of instructions and the use of a system of signals I had to give the supporting party in Camp No. 4 a free hand. They ap- that was pear to have done all humanly possible.
should add I myself forbade any reconnaissanco beyond Camp No 0.00
as the weather was extremely threatening and conditions on the mountain appeared to be as bad as they could be and I had to consider the lives of the two British and three Himalayan members of the expedition, who wore still ̧nt............. or above, Camp Now he
4.
THE London "Times" summed:
up, editorially, the inte of the al- tempt to scale the summit of 'the ; world's highest mountain. The summary and comment, under the hending of "Everest's Mystery
ran:
The Mount Everest expedition of 1934 has ended · In mystery that shrouds the vanishing without trace of George Loigh Mallory and his climbing, mate, Irvine. In the latest dispatch, dated Camp No. 3 121,000 ti), East Rongbuk Glacier, June 9, their fate is not explained. All that, Colonel Norton knows is that when Mallory and Irvine were last seen they were "going, strong for the top, after making a start In fine weather from Camp No. 6 at und nititude of 26,700 foot. attained an alutude of "about -28,000 feat” before the last assault on the mountain was mode. Dr. Bomervell says, that at 27,500 feet Turn to Page 7, Third Column
The men were forthcoming. Mai-Colonel Norton and Dr. Somervell Idry had already decided that the ellimbers to make this final assault“ should be himself and Irvine. :. Un- remitting and indefatigable work which had been put in by the latter.
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