10
FASHION EDITOR writes
about the Paris Dress Shows:
A$
PARIS.
S the collections progress the de- flantly military air with which they opened becomes less deflant and takes second or oven third place.
Fashions of nineteenth-century in- spiration-very prim and not a little cumbersome at times--and also (just counteract, as it were, the discipline of militariam and the primness of Vic- torianism) a very casual, easy fitting modern line which accentuates blousey tops to dresses and coats, fullness at the waist gather- ed carelessly in with a Belt, and skirts which hang loosely in gathers or unpressed plento, - give plenty of contrast.
Not So Snappy
The new full skirts have none of the crisp snappiness of the swing skirts of last season- they may be alightly flared out -to the hem, but more often the fullness hangs straight from the hips.
Where the folda and gathers are localised at the back of the frock, however, they are often caught in tightly with ribbon bows, smocking or pleats from the waist to B or 12 inches below it, which gives them a dare or kick-out towards the hom.
For evening the bustle has completely ousted the crinoline.. I have not noticed one crinoline up to now-but every collection has its bustles, or buatle effects given by big bowe of stift silk or tulle, flounces or fluted. bas- ques.
Tunics Again
Chanel shows many basqued bodices and tunics over full skirts of different material. One frock has a tunic top of bril- Ilant red and gold coarno Ince mado longer to the back, the centro point being more than a dozen inches below the waist;/ the skirt of stiff coarse tulle is rather full and too length.
This line for basques and tunics sloping downwards to the back from the waist, or a few fuches below it, in front, is also seen a great deal on conta and
huge lattitu
bords
Wednesday,
HONGKONG TELEGRAPH
August 30,
1939.
Bustle Replaces
funic Treatment
The Crinoline
flounce from
knee
but there are plenty of other styles from which to choose an evening gown
bustle
effect
pleating
emphasizing
full skirt of an evening frock with top of pink silk and net. This young designer has just set up in the Avenue Georges V. in magnificent salons decorated in white and cream with white wrought iron furniture and farnishinga of scarlet and blue.
Nearly every collection in- cludes some draped frocks of silk jersey, supple lame or
crope.
In these, as indeed in the bustle and "naughty ninety". frocks, Maggy Rouff excels.
Besides the fullness-to-the- back silhouette, Maggy Rouff introduces many one-sided cf- feets. She usca wide check taffeta ribbon stitched a few inches either side of one of the side seams and tied across in three bows from the underarm down to the hip line to accen- tunte a bunch of gathers that falls from the hip.
Contrasting coloured cord threaded across gathers, is one device for controlling them. Maggy Rouff uses it to gather up sleeves and usually ties it in a bow and finishes it with a tassel. She also uses it to con- trol the gathers over a bustle. Bright green cord threads the bustle-gathers on a lovely black evening frock, the cord being made from the material of the evening cont.
Evening Coats
These unusual evening frocks demand unusual conts to go with them. Frequently tho coats are made three-quarter length with fitting bodice-top and basque longer to the back or they are cut away in front
dresses for daytime as well as evening frocks is where the waist at the back and finished a huge bow at the waist at the evening-often it is merely bodice is continued into or over there in a big loop or bow. back, and the bodice are of with tails at the back; or made suggested by embroidery, bands the skirt, usually to a depth of
with very wide Heim has a most attractive black velvet and the very full full-length of velvet or fur or other device, twelve to twenty inches in example of this; both the apron ground length
skirt is in sleeves and deep yoke, from Another diagonal line seen in front, but is caught up to the front, which is drawn up into gaudy multicolour perpendicu- which the materials falls in
lar-stripe satin.
Time On Your Hands
[S-it, not odd that you have co often
if you wince at the sound of "ilme
to go to the busy woman to get budgeting" and feel that it is too dull
things done? No matter how full a business for your type, turn it into her days, if she promises to do some, thing for you she will somehow f. it in.
F Rome of "making dates”—with
yourself! Only they are "tates"
which must be kept just as surely
Yet ask some women who appear as the appointment you make with n to have plenty of spare time even R
friend. simple Hille favour like hunting out
a special recipe, getting some cut- How to start your plan? Decide tings from the garden, or packing first what you want to do most out up old clothes for the charwoman of actual working hours. Instead of and what happens
wishing you had time for embroidery,
Swiftly comes the promise, "My or for learning French, make time by dear, of course I will. the very first pinning yourself down to a certain chance I get." Then, dead silence for days, perhaps weeks, until th hour to be kept for that particular subject crops up again, and the dia- activity. tory one holds forth the well-worn excuse about not having a moment to spare.
Suppose you fix Monday evening
for a couple of months to start learning French, or embroidery, or Why is this? why is it that the doing old jobs. At the end of that busy housewife whose day is cram time
you will probably have the med to capacity, or the business woman with a serious job to hold fever so badly that Monday evenings down can, when necessary, full in will be a real pleasure to look for
further activities?
2. Is
plan
ward to. But if it does so happen that you are not getting the satis- It not because those women
their days and budget their fiction you expected out of the even- time? It is apportioning time that ing, the programme can be revised. counts.
Hospitality Programme
If you are an average woman you Another two evenings may be al- will certainly find tremendous ad- vantages in having a time-budgeting lotted to hospitality, friends coming system. This applies, of course, in one evening, you going out to them chledy to leisure hours. The day's another. Sunday can be a "home" work will naturally be planned out, but there is a good deal of time out day when you have your people to alde working hours which somehow lea, or spend the evening with them gets frittered away just because of if you live at home, or write to them lack of plan.
if they live away,
For one thing you will cease to Saturday can be an open day when Yahelve small jobs and so have more you do exactly what you feel like
peace of mind. You may often find yourself saying, "Now to-morrow I'll doing on the spur of the moment. to out that kitchen cupboard or take Another evening may be devoted to that book back to Mrs. Smith's." And some hobby, or outdoor sport, or just then to-morrow comes and goes and plain walking for health. Bill the kitchen cupboard reproaches you and Mrs. Smith's book stil roosts on the shelves.
An “Odd Job Hour"
You see the idea? Make your own the budget according to your own particular needs. Revise it every
Dusty wine-toned stripes, used vertically in the blouse combine with solid wine trousers, Bilk braid forms the frog closings.
AUXILIARY NURSING
Series of Lectures Fixed For Next Month
few weeks, and once having got it Under the auspices of the Auxiliary RoNursing Service, a series of lectures
But if an "odd job" four or even into working order, stick to it. Jing is fixed into the time scheme, solve that you will not be sinck over on First Ald and Home Nursing have
these little things get done auto-
or the whole been arranged for next month. matically, with no fuss and nervous keeping the "dates" Ewear and tear.
thing will go to pieces.
Commencing at 6 pm. on Septem-
Another
And the result? In a little while ber 5, Dr. (Miss). H. Y. Cheng will time advantage of the
lecture on Home Nursing In have ceased Abudget is that you acquire a really when you
to regard give
the Queen Mary Hospital, while Dr.
Vivid Stripes
folde to the ground.
Evening decoletages vary considerably. They may bo There's a feeling for vivid square, round or occasionally coloured stripe materials-es. X-shaped in front, and at the pecially for the evening. Heim back very low, almost, and the has a lovely dinner frock with sometimes absolutely, to
Most frocks have shoul- matching bolero for which he waist.
Dinner frocks are uses black crepe finely striped der straps. with tin foil in multicolours. usually high to the throat, Raphael uses black and gold often finished there with a stiff striped stiff silk to make the collar or soft lace ruff,
Passport To Picnics
DON'T chouse your site near n' still pond, unless you enjoy the company of mosquitoes and their relations. A sprinkling of eucalyptus oil on wrists and ankles will help to ward off these and other Inquisitive instels, and strong ammonia waler, dabbed an an insect bite, will prove very relieving.
ON'T lurd-boil your eggs for sandwiches. Much better to scramble them until of a firm and dry consistency and spread this over the butter. No tear of the eggs dropping out it done this way. Try mixing tomatoes with the scrambled eggs, too. Beat in a small portion of mustard to your butter before than easier, and nicer, spreading ment sandwiches. Much dabbing the mustard on to the meat.
WRAP sandwiches in grease-proof paper that has been round butter or margarine. The fim of butter will help to keep the sandwiches moist and fresh.
DON'T add milk to the tea or coffee in thermos flask. Carry
it separately, as milk is apt to curdle if carried about and shaken when in a hot liquid. Strain the tea when filling, the flask, so that tea leaves do not pass Into the thermos, other- wise the tea leaves will have time to slew" and spoll the tea.
PACK your plenie basket, or tin, tightly, so that the contents have no chance to rattle about or push against each other in transit Use unbreakable utensils or waxed containers, so that there is no fear of breakages. Ice-cream cartons, thorough- ly cleaned, will come in very useful for plenics-for packing individual dishes, etc.
INVEST in a few waterproof cushions there are not many occasions when English grass is really dry and rheumatism- proof! If you have garden cushions already, make them water- proof by slipping aquare of rubber sheeling inside the cover. Tiny collapsible chairs are useful, too-and easily carried or packed into the car.
TAKE an eye-shade or hat with a brim,, otherwise your Quling will probably end in a headache. A damp sponge doesn't take up much room in your packing bag, but it serves a great purpose. In wiping sticky fingers and faces.
CARRY a lump of ordinary washingsoda, and if anyone should be unfortunate enough to be stung by a wasp moisten the soda and apply to sting before seeking proper medical aid.
and feeling of having plenty of your time budget as a problem child, (Miss) S. Y. Cheng will speak on and at 6 pm, the same day Dr. (Miss) Mary Hospital at 6 pm, on Septem- Fume up your sleeve. No desperate and become instead its close friend, First Aid at the Kowloon Hospital. p. Ruttonjee will speak on Home ber 14, and on September 20, also at
rush because everything is plannı!
and you will get your reward. For not Both these talks will be in Chinese Nursing at the Kowloon Hospital. p.m., Dr. (Miss) P. C. Lai will out. No
fear that there
speak on On September 7 al 10 a.m. Dr. These lectures will be in English.
First Aid at the enough time, because the hours only will there be enough time for are labelled for whatever purpose your needs, but a little time to spare! J. E. Dover will deliver a lecture an Dr. (Mra.) L. I. Dovey will lec-|hospital. The former will be in you have in mind.
Madge Whiler First Aid at the Queen Mary Hospital. ture on Home Nursing af the Queen' Engilah and the latter in Chinese,
be
SAMO
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COD
Liver Oil
with
MAMA
MALT Extract
The food which gives strength
f་
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The health-giver för young and old. Take it regularly.
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Here's Luck!
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