10
FASHION EDITOR writes about the Paris Dress Shows:
AS
PARIS.
S the collections progress the de- fiantly military air with which they opened becomes less defiant and takes second or even third place.
Fashions of nineteenth-century in- spiration-very prim and not a little cumbersome at limes--and also (just counteract, as it were, the discipline of militarism and the primness of Vic- torianism) a very casual, easy fitting modern line which accentuates blousey tops to dresses and coats, fullness at the waist gather- ed carelessly in with a belt, and skirts which hang loosely in gathers or unpressed plents, give plenty of contrast.
Not So Snappy
The new full skirts have none of the crisp snappiness of the swing skirts of last season- they may be slightly flured out to the heil, but more often the fullness hangs straight from the hips..
Where the folds and gathers are localised at the back of the frock, however, they are often caught in tightly with ribbon bows, smocking or pleats from the waist to 8 or 12 inches below it, which gives them a flare or kick-out towards the hem.
1
For evening. the bustle bas completely ousted the crinoline. I have not noticed one crinoline up to now-but every colletion has fis bustles, or bustle effects given by big bows of stiff silk or talle, flounces or fluted bas- ques,
Tunics Again
Chanel shows many busqued hodices and tunles over full skirts of different material. One frock has a tunic top of bril- liant red and gold coarso lace made longer to the back, the centre point being more than a dozen inches below the waist; the skirt of stiff coarse tulle is rather full and toe length.
This line for basques and tunica sloping downwards to the back from the waist, or a few inches below it, in front, is also seen a great deal on coats and
huge tattiku
bows
Wednesday,
HONGKONG TELEGRAPH
Bustle
Junic
Treatment,
August 30, 1939.
Replaces
The Crinoline
flounce
quom nee
but there are plenty of other styles from which to choose an evening gown
bustle
effect
pleating
emphasizing
full skirt of an evening frock with top of pink silk and net. This young designer has just set up in the Avenue Georges V. in magnificent salons decorated in white and cream with white wrought iron furniture and furnishings of scarlet and blue.
Nearly every collection in- cludes some draped frocks of silk jersey, supple lame or crepe.
In these, as indeed in the bustle and "naughty ninety" frocks, Maggy Rouff excels.
Besides the fullness-to-the- back silhouette, Maggy Rouff introduces many one-sided ef- fects. She uses wide check taffeta ribbon stitched a few inches either side of one of the side seams and tied across in three bows from the underarm down to the hip line to necen- tuate a bunch of gathers that falls from the hip.
Contrasting coloured cord threaded across gathers is one device for controlling them. Maggy, Rouff uses it to gather up sleeves and usually ties it in a bow and finishes it with a tassel. She also uses it to con- trol the gathers over a bustle. Bright green cord threads the bustle-gathers on a lovely black evening frock, the cord being made from the material of the evening coat. Evening Coats
dreases for daytime as well as evening frocks is where the waist at the back and finished a huge bow at the waist at the or they are cut away in front evening-often it is merely suggested by embroidery, bands dice is continued into or over there in a big loop or bow.
the skirt, usually to a depth of Heim has a most attractive of velvet or fur or other device.
twelve to twenty inches in example of this; both the apron Another diagonal line seen in front, but is caught up to the front, which is drawn up into
Time On Your Hands
Is it not odd that you have so often
If you wince at the sound of "time
to go to the busy wonun to get budgeting" and feel that it is too dull things done? No matter how full business for your type, turn it into her days, if she promises to do Beute- thing for you she will somehaic
it in.
2 stame of "making dates"--with yourself Only
they
ure "dates" which must be kept Just as surely
Yet ask some women who appear as the appointment you make with a to have plenty of spare time even s friend. simple little favour like hunting ou*
a special recipe, getting some cul- How to start your plun? Decide Lings from the garden, or packing list what you want to do most out up old clothes for the charwoman of actual worlding hours. Instead of and what happens
wishing you had time for embroidery,
Swiftly comes the promise. "My or for learning French, make line by dear, of course I will, the very first pinning yourself down to a certain chance I get." Inen, Grad silence for days, perhaps weeks, until the hour to be kept for that particular pohjeet crops up ngan, and the dila detivity. tory one holds forth the well-worn
Suppose you fix Monday evening |
excuse about not having a moment for a couple of months to start
to spare.
learning French, or embroidery, or Why is this? Why is it that the doing odd jobs. At the end of that busy housewife whose day is crum- time you will probably have the ined to capacity, or the business woman with a serious job to hold fever so badly that Monday evenings down can, when necessary, full in will be a real pleasure to look for- further activities?
Is
plan
women
word to. But if it does so happen that you are not getting the satis it not because these their days and budget their faction you expected out of the even- time? It is apportioning time that log, the programine can be revised.
Hospitality Programme
counts.
If you are an average woman you Another two evenings may be ni- will certainly find tremendous -nd- vantages in having a time-budgeting lotted to hospitality, friends coming system. This applies, of course, in one evening, you going out to them chiefly to leisure hours. The day's another. Sunday can be a "home" work will naturally be planned out, but there is a good deal of Ume out day when you have your people to alde working hours which somehow ten, or spend the evening with them Rets frittered away just because of if you live at home, or write to them lack of plan.
if they live away.
Saturday can be un open day when For one thing you will cease to shelve sinal jobs and so have more you do exactly what you feel like peace of mind. You may often find doing on the spur of the moment. yourself saying, "Now to-morrow I'll do out that kitchen cupboard or take Another evening may be devoted to that book back to Mrs. Smith's." And some hobby, or outdoor sport, or just then to-morrow comes and goes and plain walking for health.
still the kitchen cupboard reproaches
you
and Mrs. Smith's book
roosts on the shelves.
An "Odd Job Hour"'.
still You see the idea? Make your own ume budget according to your own particular needs. Revise it every few weeks, and once having got it
But if an "odd job" hour or even into working order, stick to it.
time
Dusty wine-toned stripes, used vertically in the blouse combine with soild wine trousers. Silk braid forms the frog closings.
AUXILIARY NURSING
Series of Lectures Fixed
For Next Month
Under the auspices of the Auxillary Re- Nursing Service, a series of lectures
These unusual evening frocks demand. unusual conts to go with them. Frequently the conts are made three-quarter length with Atting bodice-top and basque longer to the back back, and the bodice are of with tails at the back; or made with very wide black velvet and the very Tull full-length
skirt is in sleeves and deep yoke, from ground length gaudy multicolour perpendicu- which the materials falls in lar-stripe satin.
folds to the ground.
Evening decoletages vary Vivid Stripes
considerably. They may be There's a feeling for vivid square, round or occasionally coloured stripe materials-es- X-shaped in front, and at the pecially for the evening. Heim back very low, almost, and the has a lovely dinner frock with sometimes absolutely, to matching bolero for which he waist. Most frocks have shoul- uses black crepe finely striped der straps. Dinner frocks are the throat, usually high to with tin foil in multicolours.
Raphael uses black and gold often finished there with a stiff striped stiff silk to make the collar or soft lace ruff,
Passport To Picnics
ON'T choose your site near a slit pand, unless you enjoy
and
of eucalyptus oll on wrists and ankles will help to ward off these and other inqulative inscets, and strong ammonia water, dabbed on an insect bite. will prove very relieving.
ON'T hard-boil your eas for sandwiches. Much better to
De te them unit of a fum and dry consistency and spread this over the butter. No fear of the eggs dropping out it done this way. Try mixing tomatoes with the scrambled eggs, too. Beut in a small portion of mustard to your butter before than spreading meat sandwiches. Much easier, and nicer, dabbing the mustard on to the meat,
WRA
WRAP sandwiches in grease-proof paper that has been round butter or margarine. The film of bulter will help to keep the sandwiches moist and fresh.
DON'T add-milk to the tea or coffee in thermos flask. Carry. it separately, as milk is apt to curdle if carried about and shaken when in a hot liquid. Strain the tea when Alling the finsk, so that ten leaves do not pass into the thermos, other wise the tea leaves will have time to "slow" and spoil the ten.
PACK your plente basket, or tin, tightly, so that the contents
have no chance to rattle about or push against each other in transit. Use unbreakable utensils or waxed containers, so that there is no fear of breakages. Ice-cream cartons, thorough- ly cleaned, will come in very useful for picntes-for packing individual dishes, etc.,
a few waterproof cushions--there are not many
INVESalons when English grass is really dry and rheumatism- proot! If you have garden cushions already, make them water- proof by slipping a square of rubber sheeting inside the cover. Tiny collapsible chairs are useful, too--and easily carried - or packed into the car.
TAKE
an eye-shade or hat with a brim, otherwise your outing will probably end in n headache. A damp sponge doesn't .
great take up much room in your packing bag, but it serves purpoze in wiping sticky fingers and faces.
C
MARRY a lump of ordinary washingsoda, and If anyone should be unfortunate enough to be stung by a wasp moisten the soda and apply to ating before seeking proper medical old.
ing is fixed into the time scheme, solve that you will not be slack over on First Aid and Home Nursing have these little things get done auto-
keeping the "dater" or the whole been arranged for next month. matically, with no fuss and nervous
thing will go to pieces,
Commencing at 6 pm. on Septem- wear and tear.
Another advantage of the
And the result? In a little while ber 5, Dr.. (Miss) H. Y. Cheng will to regard Riva a lecture on Home Nursing In budget is that you acquire a really when you have ceased grand feeling of having plenty of your time budget as a problem chlid, tho' Queen Mary Hospital, walle Dr. (Miss) 9.-Y. Cheng will speak on! ume up your sleeve. No desperate and become instead its close friend, First Aid at the Kowloon Hospital and at 6 pm. the same day Dr.. (Miss) Mary Hospital at 6 pm. on Septem- P. Rultonjeo will speak on Home ber 14, and on September 20, also at averything is planned rush because oversat there won't you will get your reward. For not Both these talks will be in Chinese Nursing at the Kowloon Hospital. 6 p.m., Dr. (Miss) P. C. Lal
speak on First Aid at the като be enough time, because the hours only will there be enough time for
On September 7 at 10 am. Dr.These lectures will be in English,
Dr. (Mrs.) L. J. Dovey will tee-hospital. The former will be are labelled for whatever purpose your needs, but a little time to spare! J, E, Dovey will deliver a lecture on you have in mind.
Madge Whiley First Aid at the Queen Mary Hospital. ture on Home Nursing at the Queen' English and the latter in Chinese.
will
*MANI
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COD
Liver Oil
with
MALT Extract
The food which gives strength
Encourages appetite and growth. Helps children to build strong, healthy bodies.
Enables adults to replace spent forces with renewed
energy.
The health-giver for young and old. Take it' regularly.
Bortles of two sites All Chemists and Stores
BURROUGHS
WELLCOME &
co.
Panitcong Two WRLSDOME *O*1.0W À 16 London, ENG.
LONDON
SHANGHAI
AND
Here's Luck!
Copyrigh
EWO
BEER
Swan Culbertson & Frits
g
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CRIME SCOOP!
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J. Edgar Hoover tells the true and amazing story of the no- torious giri behind the killer behind the gun...The punch- packed thrill picture of the year!
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LICKTURY-MAD BUutant.) The girl balled the killer bebind the gun-bus limos leugher that may sendi
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HIDING
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Stiren play by Willems R. Cquan00) Horat. Mr Cay
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TO-MORROW
QUEEN'S
ALHAMBRA