10
RETURN TO THE HILLS OF HOME
IF
the worst that can befall a native
of Edinburgh is to leave the fair. clly for life in a dirty and nolsome Industrial centre, is not the height of good fortune the sudden and un- the cherished return to expected surroundings?
Only those who have been tou long away from "Auld Reekie" chr Lavour the glorious tang of the chill, cloor air, so Invigorating after wenry sojourn in dining and sooty surroundings.
The first thought of the wanderer and bare of the old til roada moorlands, which lo so close to tho city. W there bo many chungen? Han ribbon development and bunen- lold growth cropt outwards and stifled the fresh and oped country- Mille?
The old scenca must be revisited. and without delay, to the road was token for the South and soon its changed appearance astonished, with its sprawl of building where once were green Boldr
Fairmilehead lonked now a town aulet cross-ronda, and instead of the houses seemed to pursue the cur as it slipped down to Dowbridge and Lothlonburn,
The gradient at Hillend, with its fine views to the east, showed further determined patches of enter- prise scattered over the broad plain. Red roofs. stroy roots, coloured houses now greeted the eyes. Tr old pink shale bings were never lovely, but now they look compar tively ancient and dignified.
Flotterstane Bridge
Soon the old, peaceful surround- ings arose on either alde. Dropping down to Flotterstons Bridge, the welt-remembered bend caused the brokes to slow the car just enough for safety without losing too much speed for the long hill upwards;
The road to
to Glencorse reservoir and Loganice recalled a chance re- mark, heard in exile, that wheeled trafe can no longer use this route Rullion Green to the right, where the Covenanters fought and led, seon drops behind, ns Flettersta was breasted at full throttle.
Now came the mooriand, with the slopes of the Pentlands reaching down to the road. How good it was to be again close to the lid Chr-
nethy's shoulder turned to admit the cleft of the Kirk Itoud, winding up between and Scald Law, and now came Silverbum,
Silverburn is a word which lingers In the mind and can never be for- gotten, always presenting the pic- fure of the rolling slopes of the Pentlands, sunlit or mist-wreathed, Inviting their friends to tramp again in their green valleys.
Eight Mile Burn, and on for the "y" junction-clear road both ways, and
now Nine Mile Burn lay ahead. By the tree-shaded straight road the way led down the kill to Carlops--or "Carline's Loup". Its old name
19
is given. Some say yes and some say no, advancing other derivations of an admittedly curious nume, but tre
who old tale of the witch
among the
"ouped" in darkness
rocks at the end of the houses, com. plete with broom and feline comTI= panion, scema easily the most pt- tractive one to bellove!
Fishing Days
nt
A pleasant place; surely the best of aliqulet country runs, with the memories of countless pariles hill-walkers, tired and wet and hun- Kry, crowding round a roaring fire. Cory nights when the snow beat on the windows and the pale roared round down from the hills. Fishing days which ended there-long, lazy summer rambles crowned with
#
cool lankard in the pleasant dark- ness of the little bar,
Here a halt was imperative, and
the pleasure of visiting again a las vourite spot was marred by the and nows that an old triend had passed
...on.
cross roads had
it.
on
O
THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH.
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 20, 1938.
GOSSIPING
VER steins of foaming beer, glasses of slivo- vitch or rakl, sometimes over the ceremonial cup
of coffee, I have been gosalping with the great, the near great and the man in the street-gos- alping my way across Europe and Asia Minor,
In the beer-gardens. "pubs " and cafes of eight countries I have chatted always about "the crisis." Sometimes it was our crisis, sometimes the crisis of failing crops, once a sick pig, another time a sick Dictator.
It te areat fur this gossiping. Sometimes it has spice of danger, as when I gosiped with the good- looking girl in Hamburg who said slip was a Socialist. Afterwards I found she was a Nazi agent testing my credentials. She need not have worried-1 carried no bomba or cineras; just a pen.
But there is always gossip--in Aome countries it is secret chatter In whispered in quiet corners. freer. happler lands you talk as you lle in the sun or on a bathing beach or in a moonlit beer garden overlooking the Bosphorus.
I went across Europe to Ala Minor not to gossip but to try oul You've rend n new British car, About the test-here, now. is what we gossiped about across Europe.
IN Ankara, that queer ancient-
and-modern capital of Turkey. high up in the mountains of Anatolla. I talked to the Propa- Randa Chlet. "The Turk is never so happy as when he is entertain- ing friends," he told me over our coffee-you cannot talk in Turkey. without coffee,
He landed me with books and pamphlets, told me that the two most popular English newspapers In Turkey are the "Times" and the "Dally Herald"-here the Thun- derer les down with the Lion of Loug Acre.
But he wouldn't tell me why surname Kemal Ataturk the
means Turk No. 1-hard-drinking. hard-working Dictator of Turkey. hero to 95 per cent. of Turks, is in hiding on his two-funnelled yacht, biggest in the world, on the Bos- phorus.
"They" say he 16 . even whis- per that he is dying. A newspaper
"best of all sinokes"
which hinted at this was suspended The Dally for three months. Herald" revealed he was suffering from a serious liver complaint just before i started East. But I didn't tell my Turk that, which just shows you who knows best about local news.
Trouble is that there is no Turk No, 2-that is Turkey's crisis. About the other crisis they have got it all weighed up-"we shall never make again the mistake of Aghting our friends the English- we have to-day a modern mechan-
across
Europe
by T. H. Wisdom
"the bar-a grocer's shop”
ised army, an air force (Ataturk's adopted daughter is commander- in-chief), and the Dardanelles and the Bosphorus are heavily forti- fled."
123-
It's a happy land, this modern
one Turkey; I met only happy man, near the village of Hamidye, once the property of Sul- tan Abdul the Damned. He was close to tears, for his pig was dying.
Even the Chief Eunuch of Stam- boul is happy in the new Euro- pcanised Turkey. Ho once looked after the wives of Sultan Abdul Hamid (the damned" one); now, though still looking and speaking the part, he wanders the bazaare.
He tried, successfully, to sell me an ancient camel bell (what queer things some of us do collect!) But, though the fez and the yasmik are forbidden, and polygamy is no longer offelally practised, they like the new Turkey. "The modern
Turk young
19 not fat and amorous-he is a sportsman," my friend told me.
*
(Na hot day that followed
sandstorm adventure I enjoyed the finest drink imaginable--Per- sian tea.
a
Over hubble-bubble-the best and most sanitary of all smokes, with which I became most proft- cient Inquired why the Turks buy Бо much from Germany, "Germany owes us so much for raw materials we sold her once that we have to take her goods. We don't like them -the cars break down and the guns won't fre. We want, most of all, British goods."
SWIMMING in the hot baths the
Emperor Justinian's wife but 1,100-years ago at Barsa, once the capital of the Ottoman Empire-60 miles into Asia from Stamboul- the keeper of this ancient pool told me,
"the Turks had 10 years of war, -the Balkan War, the Great War, then the War for Independence- so you see we have learned to long for peace. But all the same wo are ready-we don't want the Germans
back, as friends or enemies."
We moved on to Bulgaria, to Bola, the tiny ancient capital once a Turkish outpost to guard
the Dragoman Pass. A queer coun- try-King Boris and kingship wearying; as a boy he longed, as has many another boy, to be an engine-driver. He realised his am- bition, and that is why, now, he often drives a Bulgarian express- really drives it. As a result the Bulgarian railway system is some- thing quite modern, unlike the roads.
We heard the local gossip in Sofia's one.bar-a grocer's shop. where cansula, merchants and other Englishmen meet and drink their silvovitch cocktails leaning against a sack of flour and dodging a hanging string of влизане.
Next we called in at Nis, Clap- hum Junction of the Orient Ex- ith but two other press and with claims to "fame there is a tower there built by the Turks which has as" bricks" the skulls of Blaugh- tered Berbs, and the local hotel har Last now installed a bathroom.
time I was there the bathroom was n tin contrivance on the balcony overlooking the main street.
BELGRADE an unfriendly city
that alts on the peninsula formed by the joining of rivers Save and Danube. There is a spy fever in the capital of Jugoslavia, and everywhere you meet dour plain-
"bathroom on the balcony “
clothes men who cyo you suspi- clously. Not much gossip here-but Jugoslavin looks unenally at her "friends" Germany and Italy- wishes she were more friendly with Britain.
-To-day's Thought- How awful to reflect that
what people any of us i true.
L. P. EMITH.
EVERYONE USES CODE
COD
"gavest of all capitals"
In Cologne it is butter that un- accountably, the housekeeper has forgotten to order.
We are searched for smuggled marks at the frontier, and, with rellef, we leave Germany. There is little gossip there.
✩
IN Antwerp a German, fervent admirer of the Führer, and longing to return to Dusseldorf, tells me: "Yes, wo will sacrifice anything for our country-why do you tell auch lies about us? His
retreat long stays in his
at Berchtesgaden? Only because he gora there to rest. and think up new plans for his country.
"Goering-ah, we are learning to hate him. He is too ambitious, he wants to take the Führer's place."
And so, we sight, at last, the white cliffs of Britain again, Wa remember our last bit of gossip, the remark of a lonely Consular oficial in the Balkans." England's a damn awful country, with its taxes and restrictions, but, good Lord, it is ten thousand times better than any other."
Guide to T. H. Wisdom's Refreshments
SLIVOVITCH1 spirit distilled from plums and cherries, something like kirsch. Esteemed in Bulgaria and Jugoslavia. RAKI-an aniseed-tasting clear white
spirit.
Turns cloudy" with added Water
Absinthe) OT (cf. pernod Esteemed in Turkey and Orecce (where they call it arak). BARACK-apricol brandy which the
Hungarians like.
HUBBLE-BUBBLE—perhaps you know
it better as your old friend tho hookah.
PERSIAN TEA-is served in slender glasses: it is scented with rose leaves, and tastes like, China teo, only more
It is grown locally.
how general
LINER
PRESIDENT
*SAILINGS
S.S. PRESIDENT COOLIDGE
THE
KOBE
sailing
October 21st
for
at 9 a.m.
SHANGHAI
YOKOHAMA
HONOLULU
SAN FRANCISCO & LOS ANGELES
Dollar Steamship Lines,
12, Pedder Street
Limited
Phone 28171.
SWEDISH EAST ASIATIC
SERVICE OF FAST MOTOR, VESSELS
(with limited, but exceptionally good passenger accommodation) TO PORT SUDAN, PORT SAID, ALGIERS, ONAN, CASABLANCA, HAMBURG, (AMSTERDAM), ANTWERP. ROTTERDAM, COPENHAGEN, OSLO, GOTHENBURG and other SCANDINA- VIAN PORTS, HOMEWARDS:
M.V. "SHANTUNG"
M.V. "TAMARA”
OUTWARDS to: Yokohama, Kobe & Osaka.
M.V. "NANKING"
M.V. "PEIPING"
the
Passenger Rates:
· many
however, realise use of codes is.
Shopkeepers and wholesalers, im- porters and exporters, in fact al- most every known business all em- in one form or other, ploy codes ranging from the simple price codes of the shopkeeper to the complicated
codes used in cypher businesses..
Secrecy and economy are the two main factors which dictate the usa of codes. Many firms, for instance, allot code-words to articles to facili- tate their being ordered by telegram. Most of us are familiar with the codes used in many shops which enable on assistant to glance at a price ticket, bearing one
or two letters which convey nothing to us, and shy,
This one is 2s 11d, sir," of "That come in a bit denrer, madam-9s Gd."
But then the assistant has the key CODE messages figure largely into the code, often simply the alloca
the reports of espionage cases tion of a letter of the alphabet to which are such a common foaturejench of the figures 0-0.
news. Few people, of present-day.
Changing the Key (Continued on Next Column.)
Edinburgh: As it is, and Might Be
A WELL-KNOWN writer has said symptomatic of the quailty of their be the nucleus of a wider form of
that Edinburgh is beautiful, but, thinking.
wn
autonomy as public opinion becomes ripe for it.
would be if
To London or Antwerp
Hongkong.
GILMAN & CO., LTD.
Phone: 30960.
OUR
10
Agents:
Canton.
Bailing about
2015 Oct.
.27th Nov.
15th Nov.
13th Dec,
£53.0.0.
G. E, HUYGEN. Phone: 11405.
BRITISH
CROSSWORDS
ACROSS
128
1 A book about foreign coins is
not easy to tacklo (11).
9 Take a good look (4).
10 Putting in a remark (11).
11 This dish Is apparently of
occidental origin (4).
it would lose three letters (7).
Frequent visits to any particular shop, however, are not likely to Iend to our discovering the key, as most of the shops employing such codes change the key regularly.
DIC uners ot Wholesale houses somewhat similar codes in the cata- logues issued to retailers, so that the Restarting, the little side rond lo
strong Copying the Sassenach
It is just in this that an awakens Initer may show them to 'customers the left just the village brought back like Bath, dead. It is R
what extent is it
seen, ing among the educated classes of without divulging their cost price. more memories of frosty days on the statement. To
In the Irish, as we have
Probably the largest users of codes curling pond, now dry and reedy true?
does not ex- Edinburgh would be enormously ad-
vantageous. Those
people and awaiting its winter Importance.
keep are firms engaged in the Import and This, I think; it has lost its former their nationul sense
that huust itself in romanticism. It la By steep and twisting descent kdentity. Any national senso
of the city. A Jarger ployed dally in the receipt and dis- e way ran by the old stone arches remains in it, and this is true of partly utilitarian. They are anxious themselves apart from the corporate export trades, where codes are cm-
Country prosperous, activity where tinkers used camp in Scotland generally, is romantle, Cul- to make their
not want to sacrifice sprinding of them in public bodies patch of cablegrams. cosy troglodytic existence, seeming-turally, I am afraid, it is living on but they do
There arc several well-known of this class that makes strangers impervious to roughweather. The the reputation created by those who their own culture on the altor of would do good. It is the connolence sharp hairpin turn to the left at the are gone. There are plenty of re- prosperity.
where words or combination of let- 'dead. capital, is
are allotted
various to the and the car's lock just failed to take laps a good many cultured people, Irish
frown no wider, fined people in Edinburgh, and per- We, of course, are not like the think that Edinburgh, as a national standard codes in international use
temperamentally, though
Those retiring people could anim-ters but there is little evidenc of the have a Celule, fringes yet, perhaps we ate the public life of the city on the words, sentences, phrases, values, While reversing, Indecision case. presence of people animated by a could, at least, learn that. It is peril-
The busy practical ste, mast generally employed in Why not right
for West Linton by distinctive national culture, indeed ous for a people to substitute for its cultural aldo.
of the is needed. The fostering the "little" road? Straight
These codes are extremely com for by any characteristically Scottish own culture an allen way of speak- men bavo not quite the quality that business. And home Lendbufar outlook. The influence of English ing, living, and thinking. And, talk arts is not within their purview.prehensive, and enable messages to 14 1 10 down were simple as this Macble HII,
on this country has been na we may about Scottish life, it is we have no right to expect it to be.be sent at a fraction of what their culture No. by Harlaw Moor and Auchen-cut
undeniable that it has receded before They do their part in directing the cost corth Moss
plain language the
way must be, for no alarmingly pronounced.
wave of English usage, and functions of the city, and they do were used, but even more compre Not so with Ireland. The Irish the one who-has hungered for the sight
the a strange pleasure in
the of the Pentlands through many have a higher national sense than found
of that usage. Thus our not do it so badly, but if the town hensive and economical are
tacks Intellectual vigour we cannot cypher codes, we have. Dublin is still a city adoption wonry years could resist the view
nourishes the national identity has suffered and blame them, but the large section of and of their
that encourages castern rumport as seen
not our native atillude to the outside educated and comfortably situated Compact and Economical arta. Cosmopolitanism has from the moor road
national world has been vitiated. Dublin. Its So by the narrow and straight dominated
We see the contrary tendency in people who live as a class apart, iterature and drama remains potent.
Edinburgh is the capital of Scot-Many firms utilise private cypher road by
Harbour Craig and the
other
perhaps land. countrics,
and I should lend Scotland. codes in which combinations of two and is an expression of Its bellet in some
from 01-00 Valley of the North Esk the car
A represent turned homeward. Now unlight itself. The frish do not even affect rather aggressively manifested, yet it has pre-eminently all the features numbers
is in this a partly under- and clouds alternated, throwing
throwing the English way of speaking, be--there
cause they have not acquired the standable counterblast to the Inter of capital city but it has not main words, sentences, etc., each combina-23 Tennyson wrote more than one
tained Its Intellectual and artistle tion being converted from the key bright patches and dark shadows on
into a letter of the alphabet.
23 A great epic (5). the In this way
a code word of dye 24 This call is mainly nothing the swolling hills, for higher and English way of thinking. The mode national submergence of nationallem tradition. It does not more majestie now when seen from and quality of speech of a people is a resistance to the development of thought and action of Scotland. It
a polyglot world.
is largely indifferent to Scottiah words or sentences, and whilst the after all (5). this distance than they reveal them-
But a sane maintenance of the autonomy, selves to travellers by the neater Mauricewood over to the
wine (7). it into an ordinary previn- ing theme In espionage novels. In Mount Maw, Green Law, and Want route, and the car tumed left to life that is Indigenous to a country and this Indiference in secrecy of codes provides a fascinat-! 25 Any 2 across might make this the economy that 20 A good dog of nursery days though steering itself, Up by the need not be aggressive or in any way cial town. The cosmopolitan spielt business
f (4). Kip recede as Scald Law and Car-old colliery workings, boon Flotter- hostile to the other cultures. After has taken us far, enough, and the, counts.
The bookmaker who provides his 32 Dogmatic' (1)). nethy approach. The gaunt stone stane was again renched, and then all, a wisely conceived nationalism rehabilitation of our national spirit!
clients with a code fer telegraphing 33 Invald (4). towers of the aqueduct protrude for home, with the glorious thought in a people is synonymous with per- in overdue.
sonality in an individual. If it de Edinburgh.. if the best equipped bets and the tipster with his coded 34 Being present at a certala num- from the moorland Hika pentinels that now "home" really meant Edin elines some of the main incitements of its pennle would assert them-information are only two more ex- ber of balls (11).
not the revolting aureof life are lost. guarding the sheep which roam this burgh and
selves, could do much to restore the amples of the users of codes, and roundings of the past and to the An Awakening Needed quiet stretch.
prestive of Scotland and, at the same what boy has not at one time or At last
comes foliage, and the What answer can be
time, Its own prestige. If It remains other enjoyed the thrill of sending road dips down to Join the main oft repeated question)"Glad to be Peebles-Penicuik highway, with its back?" Words cannot describe such Hanolly, there are signs of its re. Indifferent to this it need not be secret messagest
in
it intelligent strangers Brolland. Scottish irrised
How many peonie. when they say busy traffic and all the signs of things-but may everyone who longs habilitation
gradually think it like Bath-beautiful, but, "0.K.” xioo to think that they are work-a-day world.
for a return to the fairest city soon administrative staffs are
being transferred
using code? from London to dead. have that wish fulfilled
Kobera Gunn Davis Edinburgh, and this change may wall L. & P.
road.
ז,
The short stretch through the old town recalls the little road by
outward
youra
↓
Iend
It
17 Famous actor (5).
18 The wise men of the Anglo-
Saxon parliament. (B).
10 He was swallowed by a snake
for tea (5).
20 What you probably have in
hand at the present (5).
21 croquet term (5).
(8).
DOWN
An auriferous district (4). Second-hand anyhow (4), _/ 4 He is among those beyond the inale perhaps (5).
C. P.
6 Material for making ropes (1),'
A little dash is enough clue (6). 7 By way of experiment (11).
116
8 The place to tell the man with the horses to get to the side of the road (11).
12 No, those who are guilty of this crime need not be physically strong (11).
13 "Pals cyclé It" (ansg.) (11).
14 A big step over something (7). 15 Feminino name (5).
10 Description of a dark" person bashful about a skin blemish (7)..
19 Scene of a battle in Ireland (5), 26 A little bird, you can see it piter
the seed (5).
27 A reformed Siren (8); A 28 An empty place to thun (5). 30 Early O.T. character (6),
31 This after is in the future (4):
YESTERDAY'S. SOLUTION
TOMATCHLESSUM
KEN FILES LEONAMI M
EXTRAORDINART
OROP CHAIN HUR
'AHTLESS GRAPHT
COLOONFICOUNSEL HAFOX_ROM_WEİ RATE VETON BO8 8
ANEGTARTE