10
THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, THURSDAY, AUGUST 11, 1938.
ASCENT INTO HELL
II. W. Tilman and his six Himalaya. When. night softens companions attempted a final over Darjeeling and the sun assault on Everest recently. They puts brassy fingers to the rim failed.
of the horizon the peaks are
impassable.
The monsoon, greatest enemy caught in a pink luculence so of Everest climbers, stopped that they stand out like a wo- them. The monsoon brings man's finger-nails. snow. A thin sprinkling of icy
If you have courage to ride the elabs of the out to Tiger Hill at 2 a.m., feçl- powder on treacherous Norton's traverse makes the route to the summit ng like a highwayman, you have as reasonable a chance of That has been learned at seeing Everest as the ordinary human being can expect. If eyes to the A man who has stood close to you strain your the peak has written: "The north-west, and follow the out- last thousand feet of Everest stretched hand of the syce, and are not for mere flesh and have great faith, you can per blood. Whoever reaches suade yourself that you see tho summit, if he does it without Ice-shrouded bastions of that artificial air, will have to rise 29,002ft. foc.
dear cost.
the
godlike above his own frailties It is with a sobering flash of and his tremendous environ- fear that you turn away from the malignant beauty of the ment."
Glittering success or glorious mountains.
failure, all honour to H. W. Til- Far below lies the green and man, N. E. Odell, P. R. Oliver, purple route into Sikkim and E. E. Shipton, F. S. Smythe, C. the arid path to the Rongbuk
B. M. Warren, and P. Lloyd, glacier. The march through
Drink At P & O-BRITISH INDIA (APCAR) AND
Highland Funerals
THE allegations as to funeral de-
THE bauchery on the island of
Racany, so widely broadcast lately, will probably add some colour to that ancient jest as to the tendency of Highlanders to drink to excess at the burial of their friends and ne- quaintances.
EASTERN & AUSTRALIAN LINES
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Taking Cargo on through Dills of Lading for STRAITS, JAVA & DURMA, CEYLON, INDIA, IRANIAN GULF, MAURITIUS, E. & 8. AFRICĂ, AUSTRALABIA, INCLUIS ING NEW ZEALAND AND QUEENSLAND PORTS, KED SEA, EGYPT, EUROPE, ETC. PENINSULAR & ORIENTAL FORTNIGHTLY DIRECT ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS (Under Contract with HIM. Government.)
All vessels may call at any ports on or off the route,--and the route and all sailinge are subject to change or deviallan with or without notice.
Steamers
+ BANGALORE NALDERA *ALIPORE
CORFU
One speaker to whom I listened | †*BHUTAN some years ago, spoke of "Highland funerals and other festive occasions," He was in the way of being facet!- ous, but there are many who would consider such a joke out of place.
CHITRAL *BEHAR CARTHAGE
+*SOUDAN
Tons From H'Kong about 0.000, 14th Aug., Noon.
17,000 20th Aug. 0,000 28th Aug
14,500 3rd Sept. 6,000) 10th Sept.
17,000 17th Sept. 0,000 24th Sept,
14,500 1st Oct.
6,000 th Oct.
Destination
B'bay, M'seilles, Havre, L'don, Hull, H'burg, R'dam & A'werp. Bombay, Marseilles & London Straits, Colombo, B'bay & Karachi
Marsellies & London. B'bay, M'seilles, Havre, L'don, Hull, H'bg, R'dam & A'werp. Marseilles & London. D'bay, M'acilles, Havre, L'don, Hull, H'burg, R'dam & A'werp. Marseilles & London.
B'bay, M'seilles, Havre, L'don,. Hull, H'burg, R'dam & A'werp.
• Cargo only ↑ Calls Casablanca All vessels may call at Malta
I have attended scores of funerals In the Hebrides and can conscienti- ously say that never at any time have I scen mourners under the Influence of drink. All one can say then is, that if the complainin as to drunken orgles at Rausay burials SHIRALA have any foundation in fact, the TILAWA position is as deplorable as it, is SANTHIA unusual,
TALMA
I hasten to say that after careful Inquiry to-day from people who are in the best position to know, I can find no support at all for the allegn- Without the sun life would ions made. Even if the reports now
current were partially or totally sub-
ridean group of isles, as if debau chery on sad, und sacred occasions, were general.
unfair to besmirch the whole Heb-
BRITISH INDIA APCAR SAILINGS (8OUTIL.)
Swettonhum,
8,000 | 13th Aug, 10 a.m.jSpore, Fort
Penang, Rangoon & Calcutta,
SIRDHANA
8,000 27th Aug.
10,000 10th Sept.
0.000 21th Sept,
10,000 8th Oct.
DO.
DO.
DO.
DO.
DJ. Apcar Line Steamers have excellent accommodation for irt & 2nd class passengere EASTERN & AUSTRALIAN SAILINGS (SOUTH)
TANDA NANKIN
7,000 2nd Sept, 7,000 1st Oct. 7,0001 4th Nov.
Regular monthly sailings from
What is the use of climbing Tibet is no picnic. Climbing par marks the "track of a wild, this highest mountain? ties tell of an eternal foul dust hairy man"-been found, like be impossible. When there is
"No uso at all," says Sir whirled into food, drink and that seen at more than 20,000 no wind it is possible to sun-stantlated, it would surely be grossly NELLORE Francis Younghusband, whose throats. All the offal and re- feet on the north ridge in 1921? bathe in the lightest clothes. early surveys fired determina- fuse of this vast country are
And has that Unseen Pre- When the sun vanishes the mer- tion for the conquest. No more powdered by the dry wind into
sence been felt-the Strange cury drops like a stone. Companion that caused F. S. These falls, registered on one Smythe, alone at a great height occasion, are not abnormal: in 1933, instinctively to-divide
4.10 p.m. into two equal parts the food he was about to eat?
By Peter
Grive
use than kicking a football a leathsome, suffocating cloud, about, or dancing, or playing It has been felt even high on the on the piano. The geologist northwest face of Kanchenjun- predicts to a certainty that no ga. gold will be found on the sum-
And have those dark, pulsat-
seen?
The
4.2 4.30
Frost-bile,
of
To all thinking people the burial the dead is à matter of deep 65 deg. F.
significance; to the Highlander It is Sunset particularly so. Some customs which 20 deg. F.
e associates with this sad event 7 deg. F.
have been imposed upon him by cir cumstances, For Night minimum temperature ing "kite-balloons" again been
instance, he has, -18 deg. F.
even
to this
to travel day,
long dis- heart dilation,
tances to the Kirkyard; in the
ird; in the days No man-made shadow has Everest phenomena is lack of enza, a skinned face and cracked long and arduous, was undertaken!
easy explanation for lung trouble, laryngitis, influ- of yesteryear, the journey, however mit, and if gold did exist no ever fallen on the summit of oxygen. Hugh Ruttledge,-leader lips are the lot of the man who were
on foot. Pinces of refreshment one would be able to work it. Everest except on that bright of the 1933
few, and according to Im- "Climbing
memorial custom the relatives of the Mount Evercat day in 1933 when a black aero- tions, once had an offer from a
and 1936 expedi- dèfies Everest-if he lives.
Remember, will not put a pound into any plane wing-tip came
departed acted as hosts to the way- when you hear faring mourners. between manufacturer one's pocket. It will take a the sun and the ice.
to lay a system news of the Tilman Expedition, It is now of gas-piping up the mountain these words of Smythe, who good many pounds out of generally believed that Mallory for the delivery of oxygen at trod the very limits of physical of old Highland people's pockets,"
and Irvine failed in their at the high camps.
L
endurance: It has certainly done that, tempt in 1924, that a fatal slip
The case for oxygen-carrying "The summit tras just in view The cost of each expedition has occurred on the ascent some has not been proved. Extra- over the rock band. It was only been between £10,000 and where near Camp Six.
ordinary results have been 1,000ft, abore me, but an acon of £16,000.
Has Mr. Tilman more news of achieved by alow acclimatisaariners separted me from it. Bas Is it a fair price for the last them? Has further trace been tion.
on bastion and slab, on slab, the rocks were piled in tremendous con- great adventure the world has found-like that ice-uxe, in per- To to offer? Is it a fair price to feet condition, found nine years make climbing possible Everest postlike against the deep-blue sky;
the porters who alone fusion, their light-yellow
edges
pay for a
man to stand higher later just below the crest of the is Hell. Death waits in the From the creat a white plume than a man has ever stood he- north-bust ridge?
floated silently away, like, un- crevasses, on the slabs, on the ending volcanic steam, but where 1 fore?
And have the Abominable steep snow
slopes, ready to stood there was not a breath of wind So fiercely beautiful and un- Snowmen appeared to terrorise twitch a foot here, an ankle and the sun blazed into the hollow attainable look the peaks of the the party? Have further foot- there.
with an intense' ferceness, pet with-
warming the cold air."
out
The Soviet High Command
Recent changes, through execution Army's higher commands have placed upon the relatively unknown men the task of directing the giant Soviet military machine in event of war.
and
two
Moscow.
He was born in 1802 In Zlatoust Wrangel's ultempt to break through or arrest, in the Red in the Urals. After being graduated to the Donbass from the Crimea.
shoulders of from middle school he entered the
SMIRNOV NOTED ORGANISER military school in Moscow and later the Military Academy of the General
P. A. Smirnov, vice commissar of Staff, from which he was graduated defence, head of the navy, went to in 1910 and attained the rank of Of the leaders of the army, navy, 1917 he became
colonel a close friend of
In the Czarist
that post after having been ap- army. Ho air force of a year ago, only Stalin and made a brilliant record Joined the Red Army upon its orment of the army. He is known as pointed head of the political depart- remain. They are Klementi as a tactician. He was commander
ganisation in 1918. Voroshilov, comunissar of defence, In succession of the Ukrainian, the
When the civil
war began, Sha-n excellent
organiser, particularly and Marshal Vassily. Blurcher, head Tenth and the Fourteenth Bolshevik poshnikov was appointed chief of political work, and was given the of the Far-Eastern army.
task of "liquidating" Trotskyite- the operative department of the Beld Zionvievile bands in the Leningrad Boris Mikhailovich Shapeshnikov
staff and held this post until the Garrison and Baltie Fleet. Voroshilov became commisar of
end of Yegorov as chief of defenes upon the death of Michael many valuable operative plans for son of a metal worker, became a
the war, being credited with replaced I.
Smirnov was born in 1807, the replaced V. M. Frunze in 1925, and remained in the numerous and diverse fronts on as head of the navy.
Ale- command and to good
favour which the army was fighting. For Carpenter be- through the difficult period of the this work he was awarded the order years later he joined the Commun- Dmitrievich Lokilonov
tionary movement in 1915. Two came head of the air force replacing urmy purge of 1937. Jacob Alksnis and I. Fedito sue-
F.
His wife Katerina, was a coni-
ist party. ceeded to the position of the notori- panion of revolutionary days. They HEADED MILITARY ACADEMY
chlidren of Frunze.
Α.
staf. P. A. Orlov
xander
Smirnov
vice commissar of defence.
ilon
armics.
of the Red Banner in 1921.
and joined the revolu-
1. F. Fedko, first vice-commissar our Marshal Tukhachevsky as first have one son and also reared the As vice chief of staff after the of defence, is the same age na Smir- civil war. Shoposhnikov assisted in entered the Communist party in the nov, likewise was a carpenter and All of the new appointees are of Marshal Bluceher spends most of reorganisation of the proletarian
Red Army, same year. Entering the Czarist origin with the excep- his time in the Far East, where he then
became vlee
commander of of Shaposhnikov, who Was a has built up a powerful, Czuriat omeer
semi- the Leningrad military area, com- as a conscript, Fedico became who
joined independent army equipped to de- mander of the Moscow milliary the revolution played an active role early
a non-commissioned officer and after the revolution. Despite their
the frontiers pre fend
with n little area, chlet of staff, commander of with the red forces during the civil vious relative obscurity their bing- help
as possible
from far-distant the Volga military area and in 1932 war. raphies show long service of notable European Russla,
chief of the Militory Academy of the .character in the Red Army and with Now in his 50s, Bluccher is pleas Red Army.
Graduating from the
Frunze the exception of Smig excellent aut, uffable in con
conversation, but de-
He joined the Communist party in was made viee, commander of the Military Academy in 1922, he inter qualifleations for
their posts. Al- elsive officer, he joined the Bofile- 1930, though he heads the navy, Smirnov's viks in the early days_of_the
Leningrad military clrcuit, com- During his period as head of the mander of the maritime group of the experience has been exclusively well revolution and saved the Far East Milltary Academy he developed its Far Eastern Army. qualified politically, an important for the Soviets,
work on a large, scale and wrote a consideration In the
(TO-MORROW-Italy.) Soviet view- LONG POWERFUL IN FAR EAST number of scientifle military works. point.
His Red Guardi defeated Kolchak He became chief of the general staff MEN NOT IN LIMELIGHT units on the southern and Asiatic in 1938. Aside from. Voroshilov and Blue- fronts and the victory brought Alexander Dmitrievich Lektio cher, little is known of the person- Bluecher the position of minister of nov, formerly commander of the ality or individunt life of the high war in the Far Eastern Republic in Central Asialic Military Circuit, be-
It is not Soviet prae- 1820. He united the disorganised, came commander of the air commandera.
forec tice to publicize na individual, and scattered Red partisans to drive in December, 1937, with the arrest Paid-up what little is known of the indivi- Japanese units still occupying part of Alkanis. He previously had been Reserve ally of Proprietors £3,000,000 dual characteristics of Voroshilov of the young republic, then when the communder of air forces first in the Reserve
of Voichiatvn and Bluecher only leaked out during capture,
in 1022 White Russian, then of Kharkov opened the gateway to Kharborovsk, military circuits and wears the Or- the passage of years.
Voroshifov, the trim and dupper the "Peoples Revolutionary Army der of the Red Star for his work in leader, enjoys the respect and de- occupied 1, advanced further south strengthening the air forces of the
the Whites toward Vindi- nation. votion of his men. He has an at- driv tractive personally, likes to ride and stok,
when he led
n strike in an
E
Iron
out
THE CHARTERED 'BANK OF INDIA, AUSTRALIA & CHINA.
incorporated by Royal Charter 1853 HEAD OFFICE:~~~LONDON. 18 Bishopsgate E.C.. Capital... $1,000,000 Fund... 23.000.000 MANCHESTER BRANCH;
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"Bluecher returned to Moscow in
Cebu
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Madras
Atantia. Median
New York
Talpin Tientain Tongkan
(Dihuket) Tsingtao Yokohama Zamboanga
PARENTS WERE PEASANTS shoof, and is $15 much as anyone
Loktionoy was born in 1003 in a Calcutta 1022 when the Far Eastern Republie remote village of Kursk province, Canton an intimate of Stails.
Born in 1881, the son of n rail was admitted to the Soviet Union, His peasant father was unable to Cawnpora road worker, Voroshllow began work Joined Frunze and Voroshitov in re- support his family from his tiny Colombo
Army, then farm, so the boy spent 15 years in Delhi at the age of 7 picking ore in the constructing the Red mines, and was subsequently
became "General Galens"
with
Pelping shepherd, farm labourer and indus- Chiang Kai-shek. When the latter the Ukraine, working as a brick-phong
layer.
Hamburg Despite extreme poverty, he tankow trial worker until at the age of 18, ded his negotiations with the So- took a three-year course for teachers Harbin
(Peking) Penang viets, Bluecher once more returned and afterward worked as a village reign
Rangoon foundry, he joined the revolutionary mander In the Far East when Japan- to Moscow, but soon was made com.
teacher.
Foreign Exchange med General Bana- ing business transacted. During the World War Loktlonov Current Accounts opened and Fixea He was arrested frequently and ese invasion of Manchuria made the spent four years at the front as periods at rates which will be quoted ·
Altuation critical,
Deposits received for one year or shorter common soldier, but after the Fob application, to the Stockholm Congress of World
RECOGNIZED AS STRATEGIST rupry revolution the soldiers elected the Bank's Head Offer In Lendor Revolutionaries. He became a fa-
Shapolinikov, chief of the gen-
bitn vourite of Lenin, who ordered his cral staff, commander of the first and secretary of the regiment com- Tax overpaid, on terms which may be vice commander of the regiment undertakes Executor & Trusted business
and claime recovery of British Incom assignment to important party work, rank, is known as one of the oldest mittee. The close of the civil war ascertained at any
commanders, KNOWN AS TACTICIAN
a brillant operative found him a brigadier general. His Branches, During the civil war which fol. worker and an outstanding scien- most notable achievement was, with
the October revolution of tist in the military field.
2,200 men against 4,500,
movement.
exiled, met Lenin when a delegate
lowest
of its Agencies &
D. J. OILMORE,
Acting Manager.
to stop ongkong, 1st June, 1938,
Unquestionably alcoholic liquors were served, but search the records. and Hebridean parishes as you will, and I doubt whether you will find any pecount of such debauchery as the Ruusay complainers allude to.
Even in the hour of grief, the ghlander was hospitable. Thus it procession on the road, had to stop was that any traveller, whatever his social status, who met the funeral
and accept refreshment at the hands of the relatives of the dead,
It has been said that in the old snuggling days, large quantities of whisky were consumed at Highland funerals. Such emphatically was not the case; there is no worth-while tradition, on this point, and I invite anyone who knows of drunken orgies the smuggling days from any written records to produce evidence of $1.
in
In pre-war days, when liquor was about a fifth of its present price, the people in crofting districts, as a rule, provided two glasses of whisky for each mourner who attended the fun- eral of their dead. Over and above solid refreshment was provided. Surely, it must be agreed, Invariably that this was a perfectly reasonable measure of catering for
Now- adays, because of the increased price of licensed drink, the
funeral "l- lowance" is necessarily curtalled. derstanding what Hence, one hus some difficulty In un- is happening at Raasay. Perhaps,
distance date, we may be able to glean the source of the trouble.
travelled long distances who
nt no
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Ian. Mr. J. J. Paterson, Deputy Chairman,
J. K. Bousfeld, Esq. J, IL dinsson, Esq. A. II. Compton, Esq G. Bilskip, Esq. Hon. Mr. 8. H. Dodwell K. 8. Marṛlion, Esq M. T. Johnson, Esq. Hov. tr. A. 1 Shields D C. Edmondston, Erg, Acting Chief Manager.
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ALSO up to date BATE DEPOSIT BOXES in various sizes TO LET.
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HONGKONG SAVINGS BANK.
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