10
ASCENT
THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, THURSDAY, AUGUST 11, 1938.
INTO HELL
II. W. Tilman and his six Himalaya. When night softens companions attempted a final over Darjeeling and the sun assault on Everest recently. They puts brassy fingers to the rim failed.
of the horizon the peaks are
The monsoon, greatest enemy caught in a pink luculence so of Everest, climbers, stopped that they stand out like a wo- them. The monsoon brings man's finger-nails. #IOW A thin sprinkling of ley
If you have courage to ride
powder on the slabs of the out to Tiger Hill at 2 a.m., feel- treacherous Norton's traverse makes the route to the summit impassable.
dear cost.
R
ing like a highwayman, you have as reasonable a chance of
you
That has been learned at seeing Everest as the ordinary human being can expect. If A man who has stood close to
strain your eyes to the the peak has written: "The north-west, and follow the out- last thousand feet of Everest stretched hand of the syce, and not for mere flesh and have great faith, you can per- blood. Whoever reaches the suade yourself that you see the summit, if he does it without ice-shrouded bustions of that artificial air, will have to rise 29,002ft. foe,
godlike above his own frailties It is with a sobering flash of and his tremendous environ- fear that you turn away from the malignant beauty of the
ment."
Glittering success or glorious mountains.
failure, all honour to II, W. Til- Far below lies the green and man, N. E. Odell, P. R. Oliver, purple route into Sikkim and E. E. Shipton, F. S. Smythe, C. the arid path to the Rongbuk B. M. Warren, and P. Lloyd. glacier. The march through
ties tell of an eternal foul dust
hairy
What is the use of climbing Tibet is no pienic. Climbing par marks the "track of a wild, Without the sun life would this highest mountain?
man"-been found, like he impossible. When there is "No use at all." says Sir whirled into food, drink and that seen at more than 20,000 to wind it is possible to.sun. Francis Younghusband, whose throats. All the offai and re-
clothes. early surveys fired determina- fuse of this vast country are feet on the north ridge in 1921 bathe in the lightest tion for the conquest., No more powdered by the dry wind into sence been felt-the Strange cury drops like a stone.
Use
By
Peter
#
Grive
And has that Unseen Pre- When the sun vanishes the mer-
Companion that caused F. S. These falls, registered on one Smythe, alone at a great height occasion, are not abnormal: in 1933, instinctively to divide into two equal parts the food he
And have those dark, pulsat-
than kicking football a loathsonte, suffocating clond. was about to eat? about, or dancing, or playing It has been felt even high on the
the piano. The geologist northwest face of Kanchenjun- ing "kite-balloons" again been predicts to a certainty that no ga.
on
seen?
The
65 dex. F.
Sunset
4.10 p.m.
4,15
4.35 4.30
20 dex. F. 7 deg. F. Night minimum temperature
16 deg. F. Frost-bite. heart dilation,
Drink At Highland Funerals
THE
on
THE `allegations as to funeral de-
bauchery
the island of Raasay, so widely broadeust lately, will probably add some colour to "that ancient, jest as to the tendency of Highlanders to drink to excess at the burial of their friends and ac- quaintances,
One speaker to whom I Ilstened sothe years ago, spoke of "Highland funerals and other festive occasions." He was in the way of being faceti- ous, but there are many who would consider such a joke out of place.
I have attended scores of funerals In the Hebrides and can conscienti- ously say that never at any time have I been mourners under the influence of drink. All one can say then is, that If the complaints as to drunken orgies nt Runsay burials have any foundation in fact, the position is as deplorable is it is unusual,
I hasten to say that after careful inquiry to-day trom people, who are, in the best position to know, I'm find no support at all for the allega- tons made. Even if the reports now current were partially or totally sub.. tantiated, it would surely be grossly unfair to begnirch the whole Heb- ridean group of Isles, as if debau- chery on sad and sacred occasions were general.
of
To all thinking people the burial the dead is a matter of deep significance; to the Highlander It is particularly so. Some customs which with this sad event he associates have been imposed upon him by cir-
For cumstances.
Instance, he has. even to this day, to travel long dis- tances to the kirkyard; in the days
on
of yesteryear, the journey, however long and arduous, was undertaken foot. Places of refreshment were few, and according to In- memorial custom the relatives of the departed acted as hosts to the way- taring mqners,
gold will be found on the sum- No man-made shudow
easy explanation for lung trouble, laryngitis, influ- has Everest phenomena is lack of enza, a skinned face and cracked mit, and if gold did exist no ever fallen on the summit of oxygen. Hugh Ruttledge, leader lips are the lot of the man who one would be able to work It. Everest except on that bright of the 1933 and 1936 expedi- defies Everest-if he lives.
"Climbing Mount Everest day in 1933 when a black aero- tions, once had an offer from a will not put a pound into any plane wing-tip came between manufacturer * one's pocket. It will take a the sun and the ice It is now of gas-piping up the mountain these words of Smythe, who
good many pounds out of generally believed that Mallory for the delivery of oxygen at trod the very limits of physical were served-bul search the records people's pockets.”
and Irvine failed in their at the high camps.
Remember, when you hear to lay a system news of the Tilman Expedition,
endurance:
of
Unquestionably alcoholic liquors
old Highland and Hebridean parishes as you will, and doubt whether you will find any account of such debauchery as the Raasay complainers allude to.
It has certainly one that. tempt in 1924, that a fatal slip The case for oxygen-carrying "The summit was just in view The cost of each expedition hus occurred
on the
ascent some has not been proved. Extra- over the rock band. It was only been between £10,000 and where acar Camp Six.
ordinary resulls have been 1000ft, above me, but an acon of £15,000.
Has Mr. Tilman more news of achieved by slow
weariness separted me from it, Bas- acelimatisa- Hon on bastion and stab on slab, the
Even in the hour of grief. the Is it a fair price for the last them? Has further trace been tion,
rucks were
piled in tremendous con-ighlander was hospitable. Thus it great adventure the world has found-like that ice-axe, in per- To the porters who alone fusion, their Right-yellow edges was that any travelier, whatever his to offer? Is it a fair price to feet condition, found nine years make climbing possible Everest From the creat a white plume of
social status, who met the funeral ghost like against the deep-blue sky,
procession on the road, had to stop pay for a man to stand' higher later just below the crest of the is Hell. Death wails in the mist floated ellently away, like un-
and accept refreshment at the hands thần a man has ever stood be- north-east ridge?
crevasses, on the slabs, on the ending volcanic steam, but-where I
of the relatives of the dead. fore?
And have the Abominable steep snow slopes. ready to stood there was not a breath of wind So fiercely beautiful and un- Snowmen appeared to terrorise twitch a foot here, an
ankle and the sun blazed into the holloto
with an intense flerceness, yet with attainable look the peaks of the the party? Have further fool- there.
out warming the cold air."
The Soviet High Command
Moscow.
a
close friend of colonel
SMIRNOV NOTED ORGANISER
1 has been said that in the old smuggling days, large quantities of whisky were consumed at Highland funerals. Such emphatically was not the ease; there is no worth-while tradition on this point, and I invite anyone who knows of drunken orgies in the smuggling days from any written records to produce evidence of it.
In pre-war days, when liquor was about a fifth of its present price, the people in erofting districts, us a rule, provided two glasses of whisky for each mourner who attended the fun- eral of their dead. Over and above solid refreshment was. Invariably provided. Surely. It must be agreed. that this was a perfectly reasonable measure of catering for people who had travelled long distances. Now- of leensed drink, the funeral "al- lowance necessarily curtailed. Hence, one has some difficulty in un- derstanding what Is happening at Ranay. Perhaps, at no distance dute, we may be able to glean the source of the trouble.
and air force of a year ago, only Stalin and made a brilliant record joined the Red Army upon its or. Pointed head of the political departe adays, because of the increased price
He was born in 1882 In Zlatous! Wrangel's attempt to break througli Recent changes, through execution or arrest. in the Red in the Urals, After being graduated to the Donbass from the Crimea. Army's higher commands have placed upon the shoulders of from middle school he entered the military school in Moscow and later relatively unknown men the task of directing the giant Soviet the Military Academy of the General military machine in event of war..
Staff, from which he was graduated A. Smirnov, vice commissar of in 1910 and attained the rank of defence, head of the navy, went to up- in the Czarist army. Ho that post after having been
ment of the army. He is known s #ri excellent When
organiser, particularly the civil war began. Sha-
12 in political work, and was given the and Marshal Vassily Blucher, head Tenth and the Fourteenth Bolshevik poshnikov was appointed chief of
operative department of the field Zionvletite bands in the Leningrad
task of "liquidating" Trotskyite at the Far-Eastern army.
armies,
staff and
this post until the Garrison and Baltic Fleet. hield Voroshitov became commisar of end of the war, being credited with Boris Mikhailovich Shopozimikov replaced A.. I. Yegor as chief of defence upon the death of Michael many valuable operative plans for son of a metal worker, became u Smirnov was born in 1807, the stal. P. A. Smirnov replaced V. M. Frunze in 1925, and remained in the numerous and diverse fronts on
as head of the navy, Ale- command and in food
and joined the revolu- favour which the army was fighting. For renter xander Dmitrievich Luktionov be- through the difficult period of the this work he was awarded the order years later he joined the Commun- tionary movement in 1915. Two came head of the air force replacing army purge of 1937.
of the Red Banner in 1921. His wife Katerina, was a com- Jacob Alksnis and 1. F. Fedko sur-
ist party.
ous Marshal Tukhachevsky as first have one son and also reared the vice commissar of defence."
children of Frunze.
Of the leaders of the Army, navy, 1017.he became two remain. They are Klementi as a tactician. He was commander Kanisation in 1918, Voroshilov, commissar of defence, in succession of the Ukrainian, the
Orlov
the
1. F. Fedko, first vice-commissar
ceeded to the position of the notori- parion of revolutionary days. They HEADED MILITARY ACADEMY of defence, is the same age as Smir
6. All
of the
from
com-
As vice chief of staff after the nov, likewise was a carpenter und civil war, Shapostnikov assisted in entered the Communist party in the of the new appointees are of Marshal Bluecher spends most of reorganisation of the
Red Army; same
Czorist year. Entering the proletarian origin with, the excep- his time in the Far East, where he then became vice commander of army as a conscript, Fedko became tion of Shaposhnikov, who was a has built up a powerful, semi- the Leningrad military area, Czarisi oficer who early
com a non-commissioned oficer and after jained Independent army equipped to de- mander of the Moscow milltary the the revolution. Despite their
the revolution played an active role as little area, chief of staff, commander of with the red forces during the civil pre- fend the frontlers withi vious relative obscurity their blog- help as possible from far-distant the Volga milltary area and in 1932 war. raphies show long service of notable European Russia,
chief of the Military Academy of the Graduating character in the Red Army excellent ant, affable in conversation, but de-
Now and with
his 50s, Bluccher is pleas Red Army.
the Frunze Military Academy in 1922, he later He joined the Communist party in was made vice commander of the the exception of Smirnov Aquaflications for their posts. Al- eisive officer, he joined the Bolshe- 1030,
Leningrad military early days
clrcuit, though he heads the navy, Smirnov's viks in the
During his period as head of the mander of the maritime group of the experience has been exclusively well revolution and saved the Far East Military Academy he developed its Far Eastern Army. qualified politically, an important for the Soviets.
work on a large scale, and wrote a
(TO-MORROW—Italy,) consideration in the Soviet view- LONG POWERFUL IN FAR EAST number of scientifle military works. point.
His Red Guard defeated Kolchake He became chief of the general staff MEN NOT IN LIMELIGHT units on the southern and Aslatie in 1938, Aside from Voroshilov and Blue- fronts and the
vielory brought Alexander Dmitrievich Lektio
commander cher, little is known of the person- Bluecher the position of minister of nov, formerly
of the ality or Individual life of the high war in the Far Eastern Republic in Central Asiatic Military Circuit, be-
disorganised, vame commander of the It is hot Soviet prae- 1120. He united commanders.
the
air force
Paid-up Capital, out in December, 1037, with the arrest Reserve ability of Proprietors 43,000,000 tice to publicize an individual, and scattered Red partisans to what little is known of the Indivi- Japanese units still occupying part of Alksnis. He previously dual characteristics of Voroshilov of the young republic, then when the commander of air forces first in the
capture of Volchlakva In 1922 White Russian, then
#0
་
had
THE CHARTERED BANK OF INDIA. AUSTRÁLIA & CHINA.
Incorporated by Royal Charter 11
HEAD OFFICE:-LONDON, 18 Bishopsgate E.C.1.
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of Kharkov and Bluecher only leaked out during opened the gateway to Kharborovsk, military circuits and wear the Or the passage of years.
the "Peoples Revolutionary Army" der of the Red Star for his work in Voroshilay, the trim and dupper leader, enjoys the respect and de-occupied it, advanced further south strengthening the air forces of the Alor Star
driving the Whites toward Vladi- nation. velion of his men. He has an at-
vostok.
PARENTS WERE PEASANTS tractive personality, likes to ride and
Bluecher returned to Moscow in shoot, and is
Loctionoy was born in 1803 in a 115 much. anyone 1822 when the Far Eastern Republic remote village of Kursk province,Canton an intimate of Stalin.
was admitted to the Soviet Union. Ils peasant
father was unable to Cawnpore Born in 1881, the son of a rail joined Frunze and Voroshilov in re- support his family
Cebu from his tiny Colombo road worker, Voroshilov began work at the age of 7 picking are in the constructing the Red Army, then farm, so the boy spent 15 years in Delhi
became "General Galens"
Ukraine, working as a brick- Hamburg with the mines, and was subsequently
Haiphong Chiang Kai-shek. When the latter layer. Despite extreme poverty, he shepherd, farm labourer and Indus ended his negotiations with the So, took a three-year course for teachers Harbin
Itankow
(Peking) trial worker until at the age of 18, vleis, Bluecher once more returned and utterword worked as a village
Penang when he led a strike in an iron to Moscow, but soon was made com- teacher,
Hongkong Rangoon
Foreign Exchange and General Bana. foundry, he joined the revolutionary mander in the Far East when Jupan-
ing business transacted. During the Workt War Laktionov Lurrent Account opened and Fixed over an arrested frequently and sc invasion of Manchuria made the spent four years at the front an Deposits received for one year or shorter
common soldier, but after the Feb-periode at rates which will be quoted.
application. ruary revolution the soldiers elected the Bank's Head Office in Londo him vice commander of
undertakes Executor & Trustee busine the
regiment
and clawns recovery of British Incom
movement.
to
aituation critical.
RECOGNIZED AS STRATEGIST
(phuket Tringto Yokoherna Zamboang
axiled, met Lenini when a delegate the Stockholm Congress of World Revolutionaries. He became a fa- Shaposhnikov, chief of the gen and secretary of the regiment com-Tax overpaid, on terms which may vourite. of Lenin, who ordered his oral staff, commander of the Ars and assignment to important party work, tank, is known as one of the oldest mites. The close of the civil war ascertained at any of its Agencies
KNOWN AS TACTICIAN commanders, a brilliant operative found him a brigadier genera). His Branches,
outstanding scien most notable achievement was, with During the civil war which fol- worker and on
2,200 men lowed the October revolution of list in the military field.
against 4,500, to stop Mongkong, 181 June, 1930,
D. J. GILMORE,
Acting Manager, ¦
N. A. J.
HONGKONG AND SHANGHAI BANKING CORPORATION.
Authorised `Capitol
............. $50,000.00@ Issued and Fully Pald-up... $0,000,000 Reserve Funda
Sterling
# $1,500,000 Hongkong Currency Reserys $10,000,000 Reserve Liablilty of Proprietors $20,000.00 HEAD OFFICE: HONGKONG, BOARD OF DIRECTORS:-
1
T. E. Pearce, Esq.
Chairman.
Hon. Mr. J. J. Paterson,
Deputy Chairman,
J. R. Masson. Esq.
J. K. Bouifield, Esq. A. 11. Compton, Eag G, Miakin, Lon.
Shields
Hon. Mr. S. 1. Dodwell K. 9. Morrison, Esq. M. T. Johnson, Esq. Hon. Mr. A.
D. C. Edmondstan, Es, Acting Chief Manager.
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17,000 20th Aug.
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