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This

HERE have been six

expeditions to Mount Everest, and there is to be a seventh this year.

In 1924 Brigadier E. F. alone, Norton, climbing reached 28,100 feet, less than 1,000 feet from the summit. In 1933 three climbers renched the same elevation.

In 1936 an expedition, en- riched by the accumulated experience of five previous expeditions, got no higher

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Flic

Hongkong Telegraph.

THURSDAY, JANUARY 13, 103.

TRIBUTE TO COURAGE

The world will pay tribute to-day to seven brave men who have died in the interesis of science and progress-the crew of the Samoan Clipper, formerly the Hongkong Clipper, which mude aviation history by flying the Pacific and linking this Colony with the Pan-American trans-ocean system. The plane was to accomplish even more distinguished work. Piloted by the veteran Edwin Musick, it linked California with Auckland

reached in 1921 by the first expedition of all.

And the reason, plain enough front Mr. Hugh Rutledge's re- cently published book "Everest: The Unfinished Adventure" (Hodder and Stoughton, 20s.) is -the weather,

Altitude and its effects on mind and body. acclimatisation, de- terioration, the difficulty of the mountain, which is now known to be considerable nt 28,000 feet, play no minor parts, but the weather reserves to itself the casting vote of failure or success.

It cannot be dissociated for a single moment from the Everest adventure, and it is the essential motif of this book, running through the narrative in a menac- ing undercurrent of wind, cold, stowfall and avalanche.

A

S Me. Rattledge points out, the failure of 1038 should not be stig- matised as ignominious; no failure is where the best that can be done has been done, and his book pro- vides a convincing answer to self-

of critics

"another appointed future,"

To be beaten on Everest is no disgrace: indeed, there must be mary, among them the members of the 1930 expedition, who cherish something left against which the brute force and mechanisms of this material age cannot prevall, and which in the end devolves on

tan skill and human spirit.

a secret gladness that there in

Such reflections and many others are inspired by this book, and a wealth of technical detall, medical physiological and inech- anical, merely serves to illuminate

still more the ultimate spirit and purpose behind an achievement which is useless from a material-

Ist's standpoint.

To climb Everest is a pilgrimage,

a practical expression of the men-

Year they may CONQUER

EVEREST

"TAO 14001 word Copyright.

World's highest mountain photographed from the aeroplane which few over it during the

Everest fight expedition. Shadows were caused by

by F. S. Smythe,

one of the world's greatest mountaineers, and author of several books on the high hills. Was in Everest expeditions of 1933 and 1937.

studled if the problems under- lying Everest are to be understood. Yet in his 147 pages of personali narrative. Mr. Rutledge conveys to the reader with a rare skill the aims and aspirations, the human strengths and weaknesses inherent In all adventure when men aro tried to the uttermost of their mental and physical capacities.

Contrast in an essential condi- To tion of human happiness.

comfort $40 appreciate

must endure discomfort; safety is u thing to him who has never UCH a theme demands

Coor the best, and Mr. Rutt-nown-danger. Perhaps this is ledge has given of his one reason why men climb moun- best in a beautifully produced and

tains. illustrated volume in which Mr. Michael Spender's large-scale map

Lal and spiritual power that has rated man to a footing above the

bensts.

S

S. MOUTRIE & CO., LTD. New Zealand, and Musick, the deserves special comrugadation.

YORK BUILDING

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MAINTAIN CONSISTENT ADVERTISING DURING

1938

It is the consistently advertised. product which makes the steady gain in sales. This way the consumer is constantly reminded of a particular product. Nowspaper advertising is pre- ferred to any other form because it enables the advertiser to place his message before the consumer in the most effective manner. It can be changed every day. It does not become monotonous. The "South China Morning Post". and "The Hongkong Telegraph" provide the finest media; guar- anteeing the largest morning and afternoon circulations.

Mako 1938 a more prosperous year by using the two leading newspapers.

chief pilot, mapped a pioneer's course across thousands of miles of the Pacific to extend the field of Pan-American Corporation's enterprise and speed communi- ention with another continent.

An official account la necessarily documentary, and nearly half the book is devoted to practical and scientific matters such as weather. medicine. physiology and wireless, all of which have a bearing on the expedition and which should be

of all mishaps to an aeroplane, japparently enveloped the ma

want

no

was not achieved without cost. We wish to take this

From the warm. languorous plains of India to the bitter wind- swept ridges of Everest is lengthy mental as well as physical stride, and Mr. Ruttledge, a good psychologist, as all leaders must be, gives an illuminating picture diverse of. widely

conditions,

physical and human.

the plane's wing struts.

He Is never-falling In his who by appreciation of those thought or deed supported him, the more and he writes:

quixotle the venture, the more men have received the priceless loyalty and inspiration of women."

I

TT is indeed a fact that women understand better than men the motives and ideals underlying these **scless" expeditions Mount Everest,

to

a strong Mr. Ruttledge makes case for a party large chongh for reserves in the event of initial failure or liness, yet there are many who believe that success is more likely to be achieved by a small, lightly-laden expedition, quick to seize its opportunities and psychologically homogeneous, and that such advantages outweigh the disadvantages he mentions.

Then there is also the question of

Transatlantic Bird Flights

have carried to success

employing oxygen, set forward by Dr. C. B. Warren, who was untiring In physiological research. In theory Everest can be easily and safely climbed with an oxygen apparatus, but in practice there are grave dis- advantages and dangers.

There are many who believe, and I am one of them, that Everest can be climbed, and most safely climbed, without oxygen and that Nature has set no insuperable obstacle.

Mr. Ruttledge is rightly insis- tent on the value of mountaineer- ing

experience. The team. of Olympic athletes advocated by the member of a former expedition would be utterly wasted on Everest. Even years of climbing experience are useless to him who has never learned to walk uphill properly.

Economy of effort and rhyth- mical movement are the Arst essentials in climbing at high altitudes, and allied to these a harmony of ruind and spirit which is only gained through experience.

T

HE 1938 expedition will with GO to Everest

nuch

valuable know. It win fedge at its disposal. know that to attempt to reach the North Col during the monsoon. season is suicidal.

nies from the south reach the

For the experiences of Mr. E. E. Shipton's reconnaissanca party in 1035 and the avalanche which nearly overwhelmed him and Mr. were recovered, three In P. Wyn Harria in 1036 are abun- Test flights went smoothly. chine. She dived into the sea, TE crossing of the Atlantic by berland,

nying-boats has been much in Nowfoundland, one in Labrador, and, dant proofs that the snow is very The world of aviation, always it seems, close to the point for the public eye, and the performances one in Davis Strait, west of Green- dangerous when the humid warm

of Cambria, Caledonia, and Clipper and. which she was heading, limping excite admiration on all sides. The Two black-headed gulls marked in mountain.

Whether or not the summit can optimistic, never discouraged by

on three engines.

average speed of about 150 miles on Germany crossed the Atlantic-one to Mexico and the other to the Bar- hour leaves one breathless.

doubtful. The available evidence disaster and the sudden death of

There is now no doubt that

It may come to many us a surprise! bador. Perhaps even more remark- be reached after the monsoon is a similar which was marked in Denmark and cold, whilst the days are danger- its greatest pilots, watched the all her crew perished. No head that certain frail feathered creatures able is the flight of a gull-billed ter points to high winds and intense

recovered in Barbados. A spoon-bl!!

ringed in Holland, a ously short in September and Thus in December of 1927 a large and a heron,

October. ealm courage of Musick and his stone will mark their resting-cast-to-west flight.

flowers deck their flock of inpwings reached Newfound-black-hended gull from Britain and,

On Everest no two seasons are place, no

Iceland found their'

weather

be alike.

may The land from Europe. Ordinarily, the a scoter from companions with satisfaction

grave. Somewhere, under the tapwing is unknown in America, and way as far as the Azores.

comparatively warm and wind- and admiration. The Samoan

undoubtedly their bodies

came from oil alick,

lena, as it was in 1030, with an im- are the birds

America to Europe Britain, for they included one which

possible mantle of snow on the Clipper did all that was expected washed by the sea. And that is had been ringed as a chick in 'Cum-

West-to-cast crossings are not in- mountain and an early monsoon. of her.

few marking records or it may be windy and intensely Her engines never in tradition, for these galiant berland, After reaching Newfound-

and they spread farther west into frequent. A

reveal that Aretle terns breeding on. cold. better the mainland of America.

Or, for once, there may be a few faltered. The southern Pacific gentlemen

The distance covered by the flock the eastern shores of North America,

cross to the shores of windless days between the wrath was some 2,200 miles, and was prob- commonly

Africa. From time to ful winds and the coming of the was conquered. But conquest grave.

ably accomplished in 24 hours, at an Europe and op-average speed of 12 miles an hour time there are rare vagrants which, monsoon. Then, and only then, is

severe the summit likely to be reached. easterly wind especially in time of very

The porters. I have left them to almost weather, find a hospice in our warm- the occasion, on It was on her first "pay lond" portunity of expressing a hum- There was a strong

the end, for, like the weather, they ble word of appreciation for the directly behind the birds. The er elime.

In One example was recorded

have a first and last eay on Everest. flight from Californa that the work these men have done, and Meteorologieal Office estimated Ulte

velocity of the wind at about 15 Orkney last spring, when in Ameri-Successive expeditions have trained

enn yellow-billed cuckoo arrived in! enfor what their comrades will m.p.h. at 1,000 feet,

It is possible that the flock was an exhausted condition. There are a magnificent body of men. by gine trouble. Something went continue to do, for these

aiming for Ireland there is regular about a dozen records for this bird

asters on Nanga Parbat, wrong with the oil feed in |noula of vision who help to break migration of lapwings from both the in Britain, and there in no doubt that Continent and Dritain into Ireland. It crossed the Atlantic, almost cer-

they are ready to offer down international barriers and but overshot the mark owing to the thinly unaided. It is an inhabitant

their all, and their greatest ambi- There is a regular flight from tion is to pitch a camp higher plano's radio operator called lead on towards the elimination strong tail wind. Launched upon the of North America and Canada.

Greenland and Iceland both to the than ever before on the inhospit

to the south-west. able slaba at nearly 20.000 feet, Mr. Pagopago and informed that of frontiers by science and high|pleted a wonderful flight,

south-east and These are established air routes, and Ruttledge has paid them many and

birda in the autumn of each year

great tributes. station that the Clipper would courage.

acrial

There could be no happier end- Other birds such as rooks have which traverse these great turn back. After that, silence.

hores. Thus

ing to the Everest aaga than that been seen as far hul as 300 miles highways reach our

Kolden

one of these men should stand be- Even

only the experts can

from the coast of Ireland, no doubt the knot and the northern attempting a crossing. But in all plover come in enormous numbers, conjecture, what happened next..

cases recorded the flocks have either many of them arriving as early as side the employers he has served so faithfully and well on the highest Forced into an emergency land-

turned in the course or have perished the beginning of August,

The waves. They have been Wigeon, which are wild duck and point of the world. ing. it appears, the Clipper's

In

of Iceland, fly known also to tond in a completely breed in the north skipper decided to let go his

exhausted! condition on the deck of bath south-coatwards to Britain and the Continent and south-westwards. of passing ships. petrol to lighten the ship. There The memory of the deeds

Other successful flers have been to the coasts of Canada and North Atlantic is thus daily in the scanons of] may have been an explosion. In such as these will be an inspira-kittiwake and black-headed gull America, The

Certain kittiwake nestlings ringed on traversed

R. L. M. the Farne Islands, off Northum-i migration. any event, fire, the most dreaded tion to other generations.

Samoan Clipper developed

one

of her four molors, and the

are

Capian Edwin Muslek First Officer C: G, Sellers Junior Flight Ofileer P. 8. Glunk Navigator F. J. McLean First Engineer J. W, Stckrod Assistant Engineer J. A. Brooks Radio Operator T. J. Findlay

blowing

Alfanile, they carried on and com-

Landing on Ships

U

INDETERRED

To-day's Thought-

dis-

To me high mountaina are a feeling, but the hum of human cities torture.

-BYRON.

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