PICTORIAL SUPPLEMENT
HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, JANUARY 18th, 1990.
STYLES FOR THE
PAGE THREE
NEW YEAR
Waistlines, skirtlines, headlines and outlines indicate that 1930 will see the fashion revolt carried to still greater extremes in dress design
be as important
year sartorially-probably the most revolution-
ary in the last decade.
Confusion has been the keynote of 1929-the- confusion resulting from a complete change of line. and a muddled paychological adjustment to the new. modes.
Women are wearing the longer skirts and the higher waistlines without the conviction and the poise they evidenced in the more abbreviated modes. The coming year should find them oriented to the new lines, and should bring the perfection that this season' has lacked, in spite of much that was new and striking.
While certain women of discernment and vision "have achieved great distinction during the past year, the majority has been bewildered and confused. The result has been bad,
It is definitely established that the longer skirt has triumphed all along the failion front. Skirta for day and for sports are well below the knee, those for afternoon are longer, and these, for eve- ning are usually trained. Otherwise they are close to the floor, at least in the back
Millinery is definitely off the face and on the neck, no raatter how you like it. There are women who cling to brims, and some of the houses are mak- ing hats with brims, but tliey do not pretend they are the latest models.
WAISTLINES are definitely higher, and every
woman who has one is emphasizing it. It is the youthful note in clothes. However, the woman. who has the spare tire around her waistline is trying to disguise it by the bolero line, or a sophisticated cut which allows her a line at the hip as well as - nt the waistline.
The old, untrimmed neckline is completely passe. The new frocks all make a gesture toward feminin- ily at the neck lingerie touch, a very feminine scarf or bow, or a yoke encrusted with lace or om broidery.
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Sleeves are very important from the standpoint of decoration. The plain long sleeve has been dis carded, or else trimmed up with bows, but the more advanced has puffs, shirring, or unique decoration somewhere. The shoulder cap and the elbow-length sleeve are becoming more insistent, and are threat- ening the popularity of the sleeveless frock.
Coats have been one of the most difficult winter problems, because they did not seem to agice in spirit with the gowns, and have not been able to get together on any policy. However, the models. for spring are infinitely more harmonious. An im- portant item is the cape in all lengths and variatione that is featured on the long and short coat alike.
Most of the long coats are definitely high-waisted and belied, although the princess line still prevails. Skirts on the longer coats are much wider, but the added width is more gracefully distributed and there are new ways of introducing flared lines. The straight-line coat has seen its best days.
For evening, the short wrap seems definitely es tablished. With the long, flowing skirts, it is more harmonious, though it is hard to get used to and must be worn carefully
"FASHIONS obviously are trying to regain some of the lost charm of the candle-lighted, song-
at-twilight period, when women had low and gentle voices and wore powdered wigs. Incidentally, the lengthened skirts and trains and added feminine or namentation are having a quieting effect on woman's”, nature. Her manners are growing more careful in order to conform with her attire. Legs that were part of the picture when they were crossed under, an abbreviated skirt are distinctly at fault when a train sweeps away from them. T
A woman may be her own age now and be charm- ing instead of masquerading in the costumes which were designed for youth. White hair and gray. hair find an appropriate setting and need not apolo- gize. Youth does not suffer, either.
The slender silhouette continues to be in des mand more than ever for the fitted gowns demand it. In brief, ond might say, that womens are now "dress- ing up.".
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With the coming of graceful clothes a newer physical grace must be developed. Clothes make the woman, it is said, and the new styles are prov ing that they at least have something to do in influ encing her. Graciousness, as well as gracefulness, ia in demand now, too.
I. THIS is the typical evening gown of the
ment created by St. Claire, of plain white georgette, with the molded waistline, the giaceful fullness of the skirt, the slight train and the grace- ful shoulder tie, worn with a clunning wrop of silver lame, amply bordered with white fox.
IL A SMART uole in the sports mode
sounded by Mag-Helly in this ensemble of brown "granulated material" featuring a detachable cape as well as a short cont. The blouse is of yel low crepe de chine trimmed with contrasting bandi in brown and beige." The higher waistline is em- phasized by the belt and the smart, accent of the .buttons.
III. FROM Bernard and Cie comes this smart cost which is developed in dark blue wool and trimmed with gray astrakhan fur. It fea fures the cape and the novel cuff treatment, and em* phasizes fine, faultless tailoring.
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IV. A CHAPEAU that is smart, and yet not too trying, and that gets its chic without too much severity is this model from Florence Walton, which coinca in light and dark gray felt, using the lighter, and more flattering tone around the face. It is à model that may be wom appropriately for sport or with the tailleur or with the day frock that is conservative in skirt treatment,
V. AN afternoon frock that is informal and youthful is this model created by Bernard and Cie, developed in black and yellow checked- moire, with a daring touch of black and red cire ribbon at the collar and a lingerie vest of beige lace.. Essentially French in the fine cutting at the hipline and the flounce.
VL THE typical short evening coat is shown in
this white, ensemble from Philippe and Gas ton, combining a chiffon dress with an, uneven hem line with a white satin coat banded with mink.
II. This mid-season ensemble from Mag- Helly features a cape effect on the jackel brown granulated material is used.
1. Mesdemoiselles de Saint-Cinir present" this evening gown of white georgette, with molded waistline and full skirt. ... It la worn with a silver Jame wrap.
III. A short cape
IV. Florence Walton chooses felt for this
shape.
appears on this!! dark blue wool coat by Ber nard and Com- pany.
V.. Black and yel low checked molre are used in this frock from Bernard and Company,
YI, This white satin ensemble from
and Gaston feat
and the