PICTORIAL SUPPLEMENT
HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, NOVEMBER 23rd, 1929,
PAGE THREE
Black Comes Back
H
Jean Patou Creates An Evening Dress Which Features A Flaring Skirt.
The Malerial Is
Black Falle.
Miss America Wears a Black Zibeline Cloth Coat Which Was Created for Her By Mag-Helly.
IV
Narrow Braiding. Weighs Down The Hems of This Philippe and Gaston Afternoon Frock.
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Madame Frances Uses Silver Feathers To Add a Fascinating Decoration To This Black Silk Net Evening Gown With High Waistline and Low Neck.
Jean Patou Places
A Shining Posy
Of Mother-of-Pearl And Iridescent .. Flowers on This Black Velour Hat.
Patou Adds Clamour To This Afternoon Frock of Black Georgette by Uung This Jewelled Buckle.
More Glamorous Than Ever Are the New Jet Creations.
Magically Blending Youth and Sophistication
1LAMOUR touches black this season, making it the most
distinguished color one may have.
The Parisian was born knowing the allure of black. Nine times out of ten the French woman of taste chooses black for her smartest outht or, evening costume.
The American woman' recently has discovered the aristo- cratic smartness black holds. She knows that, given the right line and style, there is no color on earth which gives the au- thenticity to a mode that black does.
This season black has taken unto itself new characteristics. even as the new silhouette has. Black adds a lustrous touch to itself, a bit of color, à contrasting white note or some hand; some ornament. Presto," black grows more glamorous than last season could have dreamed.
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One of the best ways to smarten black is the addition at jewel. A gleaming diamond shoulder strap on a weite smoky black evening gown makes it a thing apart. A single rich buckle placed at the normal waistline is a happy thought.
Some black gowns cut their neckliness to follow the curves of jeweled necklaces. Others wear a cuff of brilliants on one wrist. Still others adorn themselves with sprays of flowers or perhaps a peacock's leather outlined in brilliants. If one wants a sparkling touch on one's black gown, there is no limit to what the imagination can do.
THE addition of regal ermine to black broadcloth coats or frocks is one sumptuous method the winter styles applaud. Ermine, when so used, is cut into fascinatingly unique collars and cuffs. One black broadcloth frock has elbow puffs, of ermine and a jabot of ermine as its startling contrasting touches. Lingerie touches offer other diversions in the way of dress. ing up black this year. The black salin afternoon gown is quite liable to have a pink vestee, soft pink panne velvet lin ings to its wide cuffs or a collar and jabot of it. Georgette in flesh. dead white and pale beige is used for sheer black frocks. Lace is very new and very good. The bit of heir- leem lace that adorns the point the V front of a black gown often is the distinguishing thing about it.
Black hats follow the lead of black coats and frocks. They make great use of choice sparkling jewelry or little designs made of brilliants. Besides hat pins there are all kinds of colorful touches used on black hats this season. Perhaps one of the most feminine is a black velvet toque with a piak es trich plume attached at the back which curls back and down." almost touching Milady's cheek in front.
All of these glamorous touches, however, must be additions to new lined black frocks or they will be lost. It is going to be difficult this winter for the woman who tries to make over. her short, straight-line frocks of last season, into the larger. fitted modes.
For first of all they must follow the season's silhouette. which is, the princess one.
I ONE of the season's most glamorous evening gowns is this black silk net from Madame Frances which adorns itself with two sparkling. daintily curling ostrich feathers. The feathers cross worked out in iridescent silver beads.. just above the high waistline, around which a chahed girdle of satin is fastened. The gown is long, with the drop skirt much shorter so that the effect, in one of extreme daintinesa and lightness.
With this Delman slippers of silver are wom. There are modernistically trimmed with gold and silver leaf. Their little straps are fastened with tiny silver square buckles and the pip ings are all of gold
II. JEAN PATOU creates this evening gown of most rest- ful lines, while following the very newest trend. It has
a little bloused bodice, above a high, tight waistline. The skirt has a long, fitted overskin that flares over a full panel in front of the faille.
This is one of those black evening gowns that are cut to set off a charming necklace. The diamond and pearl neck··· lace, set in platinum links, is superb, falling over the novel heart-shaped decolletage.
III. MAG-HELLY does a daring bit of black-white work in this ensemble, which the made for fall for Miss America. It is of black and white satin, made with the stripes running slightly diagonally from the center front to low bast line, then converging to waistline, only to run out again to hipline, then straight to the front of the hem. The use of stripes is unusual on the sleeves, also.
It is the coat, though, that adds its superb touch to the black-white theme. Rich black zibeline cloth fashions the coat and sumptuous ermine trims it. The ermine fashions puffs above the black cuff and attaches them in a curved line that runs up the back of the sleeve.
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The collar. blso, is slightly irregular. One side ends in s loose collar, while the other extends to form a facing for the whole front width. This collar is "cut circular. It can be fastened up light to the neck and falls back, like the cutest turn-down collar in the world. It seems. a daringly urchin pattern for ermine to take.. It is twice as nonchalant, being ermine.
[VASSUMING that, because it is a more formal age. afternoon gowns should be as glamorous as evening ones, Philippe and Gaston have done this black mousseline de soie gown that is black at its best.
This has high waistline of the season, and the most decorative of sleeves. tight ones to the elbow, flaring then in deep circular flounces that fall away to reveal Milady's arm. Under these white mousseline fashions there is a tight cuff that ties with smart little bows on the wrist. When the afcere hangs down, the white cuff stems a part of it and with the sleeve fallen back; the white cuff seems audacious and very chic.
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A white fichu is the quaint touch that makes this one of the most feminine fracks of the year.
For further individuality, the long, full skirt of this frock. is weighted with row after row of fine silk braiding, very har row, very glosy.
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V TO lighten a dark suit with which one wears a black hat, Potou adds this smart, sbining little posy of mother-of-pearl iridescent flowers. The hat is black velour, with an infaitesimal turned-back brim in front and the sides irregular in the way are flares out, one down."
VI. BELIEVING in making assurance doubly sure, Patou gives this smart silhouetted frock two gifts of glamour. One is a gorgeous buckle for the belt. The other
new face trim in a novelty called cut velvet.
The frock self is an afternoon model, made of black geor geite. It is et sa that the fitted portion ends in gored pieces which gives ral width to the lower part. of the skirt. The unusual shaped neckline has only a line piping of white.
The stitched belt achieves extreme importance by the brooch which fastens it, a brooch of emeralds, rubies and sapphires, created by Vancleef and Arpels.