PICTORIAL SUPPLEMENT
HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, NOVEMBER 16th, 1929.
FAGE THREE
Fur Trimmings and Fur Coats
Once the Emphasis "Was on the Richness Of the Pelt Itself, But Now the First Demand Is for Style In Design, and Not Mere Expensiveness
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Henri Bendel Uses Fur Down Bath Sides of This Tweed Sport Suit. The Het is a Rebour Creation.
Bernard and Company Present This Black Broadtail Fur Model Showing Flured Coat and Odd Shaped Sleeves.
For an Evening Wrap, Bendel Suggests Black Chiffon Velvet With Huge Collar And Wide Cuffs of Snowy White Ermine.
This Coat of Ermine Dyed Beige. Created by Bernard and Company," Has a Matching Fox Fur Cellar.
Bendel Uses White Galiac Fur as Fabric For a Tic Collar On This Tweed Coal. The Tam Reboux's.
URS have always been a fascinating sub-
Fject, and the favored article in women's
apparel, but the feeling about fur has un- dergone considerable change.
Once the entire emphasis was placed upon the pelt. A fur coat or a set of sables was an investment that one expected to realize on over a period of years rather than a quick
turnover.
Today there is no virtue in mere fur, be it ever so costly. A cloth coat that is smartly cut and aware of the latest Paris treatment is infinitely to be preferred to a mink without fit or shape..
ing that it may create a like effect if used on hats as well. Moreover, fur is distinctly fem- inine and fashions are sounding the keynote which was given day before yesterday when candle-lighted rooms and a song at twilight made a charming backgroved for laces and velvets and furbelows.
The dominant note in the use of fur this sen- son is the casualness with which rich and ele gant furs are used, and the assurance with which cheaper furs. carefully treated, assert them selves.
The made has infinite variety and charm, and there is no limit to the interpretations that may be put upon it.
And fur-trimmed coats are quite as warm and as comfortable as all-fur models. It's the style, not the fur that counts. There are a hun. dred fine-sounding names under which the com. "monest and cheapest of furs masquerade. But. no one minds in the least, if the fur is made to Icok desirable. Rabbit, under many aliases, and sometimes just as rabbit, is one of the lead. ing furs in the moderate-priced coats.
It is interesting to notice how discreetly and how well furs are being used this season, both as wraps and as trimmings. The fur-trimmed dress is back with a vengeance. Bands of fur are consorting with velvet, lace, chiffon, and the less elaborate fabrics, just as they did in the Victorian days. Fur is marvelous with the fancy new wool fabrics and the tweeds. Madame Agnes and other French modistes are using it for hats, and as trimming on hats." A little bow of white ermine on the shoulder of the black velvet dress bids fair to become just as popular as the ragged blossom of fabric.
REGARDING furs in general, it is well, to
note the prominence of brown-a, fashion- able color anyhow-which means not only brown, but all the beige, tones that blend so marvelously with darker browns.
Among the leaders are summer ermine, a new, dark brown sealskin. Breitschwantz, of course, and caracul, astrachan, pony and the dyed furs, not to mention the staples, mink and sable.
Coats are of every length, from the shortest of jackets to three-quarters, seven-eighths, and full length. Naturally, as the winter wears 00, coats are bound to get longer.
Fur has become more, democratic, as well as more original, this year, for it has included every-day types of dresses and cloaks in the background which it chooses. It no longer rules supreme on those garments which are worn only when gaiety and soft lights and music form the setting, but has found its way about. offices and streels.
-Through it all, however, it insists that it be treated in the royal manner that it deserves. A fur that reveals its cheapness is ostracized. 'It must either possess richness in itself or have obtained it through treatment.
Fur has always been used as a softening background for faces. Now stylists are realize
THE Parisian styles show two excellent models for general wear, that are practica! - as well as elegant. One is of black broadtail fur, cut with the new flaired coat and the odd- shaped sleeves, with softer fur used discreetly. to frame the face. It is from Bernard and Co., a French house that is particularly succenful with furs.
II. THIS second model, which is also from
Bernard and Co., is of ermine-dyed beige, with a full surplice collar of fox exactly match- ing in shade.
III. HENRI BENDEL, the New York couturier, illustrates three striking uses of furs as trimming on three different styles of wraps. One shows the use of fur down both sides of the coat on this sports suit of dark green tweed. The fur is fisher-dyed racoon and also forms the facing of the cuff, coming down as a piping on the cont cuff. This contrasts charm ingly with the dark green crepe blouse. Inci dentally, this chic chapeau is of green velvet and gros grain ribbon.
IV. NATURALLY, any thought of an
evening wrap brings thoughts of emnine, and here again Bendel hos scored in this eve ning wrap, of black chiffon velvet with a huge collar and wide cuffs of the most soft and snowy white emine.
You will notice here a new application of ermine, ured flat and in a wide piece as though it were the skin of a large animal instead of a tiny one and the tails are not featured at all.
V ANOTHER instance of good selection
is the combination of a black and white tweed coat, cut with diagonal lines and to give diagonal stripes to the material, with the tie col- lar of white galiac, used just as if it werd a fabric or any soft material. The bow is formed by slipping one end through a slit in the collar. The cuffs show a style trend that is abo lutely new, the use of the fur on the inside of the cuff rather than the outside, with just a pip- ing of the fur coming out from below the taj lored cuff.