THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER
1922
Paris Goes to India for Inspiration in Clothes.
POSSIBLY the resent visit of the
Prince of Wales to his possDS- sions in India created a feeling in
AGAIN GOWNS OF CASHMERE
THE CUTRASS OF SHINING LEATHER.
black silk tricot, simple in shape, ; with embroidery at neck, sleeves and hem of the kind done by the Colonial French, a klad of Chi- ass stitob, fine, close, thick as if were padded. The design is of shaded roses and parrots in jungle colours. It is not flamboyant; far from it.
Thrown their weight to the the French dressmaking world Indian movement, the Daily that the time was ripe for a de-sisters, dancers, began the racing parture from all that was Russian.month of August in Deauville, We group the new things under wearing bodices and slightly full the one word Oriental. It saves skirts of a startling now leather. time and study.
It is a twin sister to aluminum, velvet. It but as supple as neither cracks nor breaks. They Evidently, tha hour of the cash-have wrinkled boots to go with mare shawl frook is not over. the gowns. Woman of position wear it. It is The leather is to be used int has a waistcoat effect in front, one of the dominant Indian autumn ia separate cuirass touches of the season
bodices without decoratios. It couldn't stand that. But it can stand a three-inch bats of silver links with lapis lazuli beads in- tersected by flat red roses mada of something that looks like porcelain.
Pieces of Indian shawls are no longer patched on frecks or jackets; possibly that fashion is faished; but the loose, one piece frock, completely Indian in its ac cessories, is almost startling and quite worth imitating.
The invention of the aluminum
A good one worn at an after-coloured leather and its prica Boon tea-dance was in dull red, jalone assures the watchers that the Simla colour, with not too the designers hava nos finished strident designs flowing over it; will this material. Three years have not the sash was A mass of bright of its semi usage
dressmakers. green ribbons beld in by a large disheartened the
Bits of les:ber trich MEDY malachite ornament at one side.j The necklace of green beads were garments, although there is no attempt to make any matched by pendant earrings and strong the turban was made of the gown larger garment of it than the fabric, the high Indian drapery jumper jacket for cold days and
for motoring. run through by a malachite pin.
new
Most probably, the success of ALMOST A MINARET TUNIC. soft suede in short jackets was One designer's Indian jacket the inspiration for this is quite a success. It is not shap-metallic-looking leather without ed after the manner of the cash- the hardness of metal. The sea- mere shawl jumper jacket which son is far too vague in its outlines was the success of the spring yet to foretell success or failure races; that had a tight hip band, for it, but when one sees whole this one has its opposite, iar hides of this fabric in the studios ing tunic of conspicuous praporjot the designers, something of tions. Also it is part of a suit, importance is expected. It is not a separate garment.
The material is black velvet,! but wine coloured velvets will be used- to get a richer, warme *ffect. The jacket is in one place, Ross over the head, is embroider ed in duil gold threads with small touches of colour and car rios marrow belt at the hip. This idea is repeated in bright green and red ribbon.
JACKETS LIKE COAT-07-MAIL.
The separato jacket is by no means dead and roare is one which attracts attention because it, too, has a strong Indian Davour. It is black crepe de chine covered with small steel rings so thickly that it clatters when one moves. The basque is cut into hazzlemente and there is a small bit of crepe caught with two steel discs in The new belts are curiously front. It fastens to the chin and made of strands of coloured is worn with a plain crepe skirt. beads, 30metimes supporting There is much of this cost-of large red roses that look like mail appearance about fabrics WIX. Violet bards. steel links, that are intended tɔgive an Indian lacquer, red leather strands are effect. Also there is quantity among the things put together to of small ruby glass used and tiny make conspicuous hip decoration. baraished metal discs like prim- The waistline is rising bighet juive mirrors. each week, so women must make up their minds to get thin to
On one of the semi-formal sport hats, not the thing to play golf in.
West corsets, or look like there are insets of oblong bits of pillow.
An alluring Indian belt has been word recently with a grey
ade and ruby glass in the tight scrollsofduligold embroidery. The shape is simple, merely a wide
wool jersey frock. It was made round crown with a high cuff, ell
of large. thick medallions of equally covered with the embroid- carred and beaten silver linked ery and bits of colour.
with silver loops. The colour of
the jersey was elephant grey.
The sweater with which it is It is made of worn is lovely.
USEFUL VANITY
CASES.
Women are usually a soptee of amusement to their mascatias friends. because of the number. of separate cases which they keep in their vanity bags -one for cigarettes, an- other for matches, while there Аты othera for The money, puff, &c. new vanity DASA with however. provent 105 more amased commsDIS, for it is a next, compact
Another new sweater also of black silk tricot, which is some- times attached to a silk tricot skirt, but is prettier without it.
which is the smart movement of the bour on blouses, no matter what the fabric, it is framed with parrok grean crepe de chine, inside of which is a riot of small shaded! rosas and bits of mirrors and little affair of lesiber or jade. Over the shoulders spread
the roses.
This sweater goes with a turban, called a sport hat by tiny braid, so courtesy, which is covered by
takes silver braid:
⚫ second glance to discover thickly placed that it that the hat is not cloth of zilver. It too, ia studded sparsely with ruby glass and mirrors. ACCENTUATES SALES OF BEADS. If we are to be Indian, pearls should gain in importance.
silk--and there are com- partments for every need, and the whole case opens out quite flatly and closes up within space of four in- ches. Matches, cigarettes, powder puff. notes. purse and mirror are all provided for, and there are no opportunities for any one thing to mix up with another.
·FASHION NOTES.
Flowers, big ones, made from
tiny coloured glasa beads strong Jon âne wire, which is then bent into shaps, are effectively placed at the hips. of some of the now Jevaning frocks. The fowers are suggestive of crysanthemums, with their rather ragged påtals.
A very loose-mesh fabria je used for sport blouses. On it are applied tiny figures out from coloured silk and sawed on with black thread.
A small handbag of black silk with a silk strap handle bas a little printed picture in black on white applied on its face.
+
The belt and cuffs of heavy crape frock are made of ropes of the crepe braided.
+
Fur runs from cuff to shoulder on some of the new coats, in keep- ing with the trend to decorate sleeves and gloves-anything that | covers the arms--horizontally.
1.17..
Senter of Hack silk tricot with parrot green bande und Indian embroidery of gold and bits of jude.
THE SMALL DRESS ALLOWANCE.
If you can't afford to hace many new frocks in the year, choose one very good one, and do not be ashamed to be seen in it "ever and oter" again. A well-ent dress or tailored suit will ulvuys be smart and in good Buste.
Don't indulge in old- ments. They neter improçe the appearance, and they run away with a bit of money.
Buy good boots and shoes, and see that they are suit. ohle for the occasion. Don't wear court shoes with
a mererely tailored suit or loce shoes with an after- non dress.
SHAWLS AND CAPES.
French casino shouls are beginning to be much worn. Some of the newest of these are of knitted silk, showing the familiar drop-stitch pattern, and finished all round with deeply killed silken fringe.
Gay-coloured knitted silk copes, with yokes of fancy crochet work, are other novelties a la mode; while silk knitted capes, collared with kolinsky, ermine, black fox, mink, or sable, are other new fashions that are being taken up with much enthusiasm by women with smart ileas, and well filled purses.
$27.
Straight one piece frock made from a cashmere shaul in wine-red with brown and yellow design. The girdle is of narrow green ribbons caught at hip with a malachite ornament set in silver. The turban ja of the fabric.
Black ve'ret tailored suit with Haring basque and heavy Indian embroidery at all edges.
The Indian, Cochin-Chins, and other Colonial influence has brought coloured beads into almost as much importance as precious jewels Jade is very expensive, but it swings from hundreds of necks. Quartz of every colour is run after like gold. Fale amethysts are most desir
able. All these are worn as
necklaces and long earrings that touch the shoulders.
If you have the least ambition to be fashionable you must wear some kind of ear ornament. And
Grey cook jersey frock by The matelasse fabrics are used elephant grey, with genuine Indian strikingly for bats. Some, of a girdle of benten silver, musare in poke abape, are trimmed with canefraction. Hut of maure felt bunches of fruit or flowers, bang- with paraokeet in jungle colours. [ing down at both sides. Some have ribbon ends formed into s long rosette that hangs at" one side.
THIS WEEK'S RECIPE.
Short Breads.
Wa
.
Spreading shoe tongues of vel- vet are foundation for rhinestone buckles.
Ingredients: Half cup butter. half cup brown sugar, 1.1/2 cups
There is a variety of reds in the four. Work butter and brown new mode. Raspberry red is at- sugar together until creamy, tracting interesting attention Then work in flour gradually What is known as enamel red is until all is used. Put on a slightly the red of Chiness lacquer, wbich! floured board, and work until is sad has been much admired in smooth and easy to roll out. Roll Paris. Cobalt blue-a colour it most touch the saoulder or ap to one-half-inch thickness and name borrowed from the artist's proach it. Precious stones are cat with small cutter and place | pallette-is much affected by isboa. Half the women in Earope a nut meat in the centre of each smart women, Rouge-red-is are searching the shops for some round. Bake in a very moderate sometimes spoken of. thing odd and artistic to rouse over until slightly coloured. envy in their friends. If they can just appear among their circle Or this mixture may be rolled out add bear the wail: "Oh, where to a quarter inch in thickness, cut did you get them," happiness is in rounds and put together in complete.
pairs with jam-between,
This will take about one-half hour
L1
Brown, too, is a tremendously good colour, Itis especially empha sized in the new hate which the liners are bringing out for the
sutumn. : Sevézal shades, bar- Bake as before in a moderate monizing, are often combined in Not in many season has the oven for 35 minutes. If a hole one has or frockBrown fur is white frilled blouse enjoyed such be cut in the top piece the jam mounted, for instance, on pale tan favour as now, Fillet and Irish will show through and make a georgette, to form the wide cuff ace are the accepted, trimmings, prettier cake,
of a sleeve.
Elaborate sport hat of closely woven meal braid metal mirrors and bits of