THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH. WEDNESDAY, APRIL 19, 1922
Draped Skirts, Long Sleeves in French Fashions.
NEW clothes tumble on the
but not sinister.
ara merely incidents in the be folly to conceal it. So thought designers. It is not possible to public like a cascade. Noth- general run of new fashions. the designers when they throw put the finger on any one sleeve ing is revolutionary. Nothing
the bolero into the market. It and say that it leads the others. The new treatment of this skirtį startles or frightens or repels. But differentiates it sharply from the leaves little of the blouse unre- Here are some of the important there is a change, subtle, forceful. Spanish and the Second Empirevealed. It is somaticas worn with shapes; a new scarf alsave made versions of it. It has an immense broad sash that brings it back of a straight band of thin material Some say the movement is more dircular Bounes af fragile lace at into the styles of three years ago, which goes over each arm at one definitely toward the classic than most covered with embroidery in The world is wild about colour, edge, forming a tight aleave from it was last year. Others think colour or in metal thread. Beneath, and each week soes a wider shoulder to wrist. Another that the Slavic movement will this is a straight slip of white or acceptance of it by the public. sleave shows an immense poff win. The confident revival of coloured chiffon. Thase are This-encourages the designers, gathered in at_the_wrist_and the Moyen Age, however, has offered for evening. They are and there bas come about an caught to a light aleave at the singular importance.
jnot copied for the afternoon. extraordinary demand for assort-elbow. It is not gathered at the ed garmants that make the patch- elbow; it is merely caught there, accentuated, and can be utilized in The plaited skirt ran away with work quilt of our grandmothers a in a careless manner, and drops modern clothes because the public the designers. The plaiting was demure affair.
"Kway from it at the back, Heavy excessively tina in imitation of|
of the sleeve and the gown fabric will accept long skirts; they were
[cream lace forms the lower part įclassic manipulation of fabric.
forms the upper part. Embroi dared lace, printed silk, metallic
Here are the features that are
013
As rivals to the bolero there is not possible with short skirts. Such plzitings belonged to the the Russian tunic. It is wide at Drapery at the hips, for one thing. Greeks. They and their Alex. the bem, rather loose below the is accentuated by every house in andrise off-spring made this shoulders, and held in by a tight cloth are used for these lower Paris until the mind and the eye kind of plaiting perfect in the Birdle at the edge of the hips. 11 cuffs or for deep ruffles flaring get familiar with that movemeat of fabric. The folds which constr./overgarments which fell over the fis often made of white kasba from the elbow or as straight straight line chemise. The embroidered with brown or red or tute the drapery run directly
streamers like slings dropping] abdomen and the plaiting on the new spring skirt bright blue. The jaoket with the from the elbow or the shoulder. ACTOOS the
is in narrOW panels inserted lightly defined waistline, hip and of the spine. The fald
The tight medieval sleeve is between plain panels of the length, and slightly flaring at the the one Eind that does not Bare are brought together
hem is left over from last summer way from the arm or drip with оде bip, and ·are held i canteria).
in Paris, but it has every chance long streamers or pointed ends. there by an immense ornament There is another movement in into which the dressmaker or the skirts which is significant. jeweller has put art and imagina-There is a definite yoke effect tion.
over the hips and the godet Another Moyen Age feature is¦fullness starts in psuels beneath The new hammered metallic the petticoat of soft metallic this night-fitting hip part. The tissua looks like Damascus trays cloth, the facing of metallic clɔth skirts for evening and afternoon that artistic hostesses serva coffes which shows where the gown is have this flat hip effect with the on and men use for their smoking opened at the side. The square fullness starting beneath it, things. It is the new fabric of neck the decided effort to mould although no one style is ser, the hour, therefore the tailors do the outlines of the bust by the This fashion is in distinct coo.not wish to leave it entirely in the fabric and the long straight dip tradiction to the fashion of the bodice down to the hip folded drapery across the drapery are elements of the There is room for both. Moyen Age fashions which are will be worn.
JACKETS TAKE ON PAINBOW COLOURS.
of being worn again this spring. It is wrinkled to fit the arm and it is cut so long that if it were pulled out it would reach several inches below the finger tips,
Slashed sleeves after the manner of the Renaissance show
for hands of the dressmakers. They hips./make the Russian tunic costs out Both of it, with skirts of kasha or crepe
(de chine, for afternoon.
Cloth of gold evening
youn
with girdle and shoulder strap of red roses. Red sash,
chiffon falling from one side.
THIS WEEK'S RECIPE.
Meringue Oranges,
This is an inexpensive, sweet, but quite elaborats enough for party occasions.
Required: 5 Tangerine orangey, red currant jelly, I gill of whipped cream, 3 whites of egg, lb, of Įsugar (caster).
Remove the skin and pita from the oranges and put them on an [ciled baking tin. Beat the whites of egg to a very stiff meringue, stir to the sugar lightly. Put the meringue into a forcing bag, and force it over each orange, cover- ing them completely. Sift sugar over, and put in a slow oven until the meringue becomes pais brown and crisp. Serve on's glass dish and decorate with whipped cream and red currant jelly cut into- squares.
Note-The cream and jelly may be omitted if desired
DAINTY GIFT.
French women adore the flacon- ette which is dainty little crystal container for perfume, the tiny, perfectly flat bottle fitting into an equally fat metal case, softly lined with puffed silk. The flaconette takes pp no room at all. in a travelling bag and is so pretty that it is a decoration in itself for the dresser. The stopper bas' a device which allows the perfume to escape & drop at a time, so you get just enough and never too much on your handkerchief,.or wherever you want to put the delicate perfume. A faconette of agreeable perfume makes & very desirable bridge prize.
The least whiff of dainty par fume is used by the wall-groomed woman. Any heavy and oppres sive odor is avoided, especially in summer time when fresh dainti- ness is the ideal & drop of French perfume on the palm of the band, or on the neck, is better than perfoma on any part of the garments.
Gren of orange crope and silver Ince, trimmed at "hips with silver grapes. Earrings of silter grupes.
Gown of fuchsia crepe and chif fon embroidered in gold. Gulden
sutin hat with retret floweTME
gown.
Sensational Paris frequently copied, of black reltet, drapery f skirt lined with while Batin, ornament on
hip set in dimande.
the arm rather than brilliant and brilliants remains in first! linings. The more oraste of these fashion. sleeves are embroidered with seed
pearls and twisted loops of gold or silver cord. Some of them are larger than the bodice to which they are attached.
LACE SHINES, SILVER IS HAMMERED.
Crepe de chine holds its own. No other fabric has jarred it from its pedestal. There are some new weares in it which incline it toward thickness and give it a alight rib, that keeps it in fashion, for ribs and cords and raised, stripes, they are the desire of the moment.
THE NEW COLOURS.
Dyed lace is the fashion of the hour, but it is not as of old, a dull thing. It shines as if it had been dipped in varnish. In mauve it is at the apex of brilliancy, in flag ted, in the smart apricot shade,; in plam yellow, jade green, peri- winkle blue, it covers hall, of Violet and fuchsia-coloured the society women in Paris. cloth and crepe will be worn this These laces are dropped over season; while bats of orchid- metal foundations. Metal has been subdued until it is in the coloured crinoline straw or satin, class with crepe.
trimmed with hand-made roses of a deeper shade, are coming in for considerable attention.
known to every one. Those are Some of the skiria continue the Sport suits emphasize bright reproduced in every material for winter fashion of being cut up-ged or bright yellow coats with every Fort of frock except coat ward into a scallop between the black ekirts, which is the new suite, sport clothes, and the sim- aukles. It is not a pretty trick, gote in outdoor apparel. Coloured ple straight gowne for informal THE BOLERO IS EXPLOITED. jackets are worn with homespur, wear...
The French did not bother with the new "silvered covert Another feature is the long their heads or bands concerning cloth, and even heavy crepe de sleeve that fits the arm, wrinkles the difference between two styles chiné. Bright green rep is a new over the hand and is cut off at the of garments. They exercised fabric for sport skirts. knuckles. These are put in after imagination in providing new SLEEVES AGAIN A SENSATION noon as well as morning gowns, styles from which to choose, and None of the designers in Paris extremist Designers continue to show the among these styles was the exhausted their imaginations on Silver lace is admirable, but what schemes of to-day, and there are full skirt, with or without hoops, bolern. This jacket is designed sleeves last autumn, although the is better in a white eilk net finely great distended over the hips. With to show the blouse. If the latter observer thought they would.traced with silver threads. This coloured charmeuse and geor- many pale fuchsia- these go tight bodices and wide garment is to keep its brilliancy The new clothes show that same kind of net covered with a lace berthae. But these skirts and continue its success it would museums are really useful to fine embroidery of seed pearls Eette dresses to be seen.
Black lace, highly varnished, is made into a gown which has Chinese red chiffon as the founda. tion. Surely this is sufficiently
Bronze-coloured Roman creep colourful to please the greatest trimmed with copper-coloured against all black. ¡lace is one of the favourite colour