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THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH. WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 7. 1920.
HER PAGE
A USEFUL SUIT.
The model photographeid is developed in jawu-coloured ducelyn with a full circular- skifted cont. The deep shon) poller and cuffs
Black seal, The distinctive feature of this
evention is the unusual buckle fastening.
A cluse-filling sent topre is nora with this
sauit.
Designs of the Moment.
Why do we always associate]
And yet we have borrowed so Early and Mid Victurian dress many of the fashions for which with femininity? For some they gained their reputation. reason it was considered an at-
GOING THE PACE.
ADVANCE OF MOTOR WOMEN IN SIX YEARS.
Nowadays nearly all women, young and elderly. primly dressed or attired in the most fashionable clothes, are just as interested in the various makes of motors 'exhibited as men. Possessing expert knowledge, they examine a car most critically. They walk round it, inspect the engine, and note any new features-all in a manner that shows they under- stand what they are studying. Husbands, brothers, and friends realise their comments are worth listening to, and exhibitors, knowing they may be possible purchasers, gladly give jail information required.
FOR WINTER DAYS.
OF VELVET AND FUR
W
THE USE OF SHADES.
During the winter season it is very important that the artificial light on which we are so depend- ant should be sufficiently intense to enable us to see easily and clearly.
An extraordinary amount of light is wasted because people neglect one very ordinary and obvious precaution. Globes used to protect mantles and wire filaments very quickly become dust-lader and fogged, which impurities naturally act sereer and ligh: reducer. In bad weather the glass globes should be cleaned every few days, or even oftener if necessary,
SHADED LIGHT.
ag B
Manufacturers themselves, in inventing numerous improve.
Another means caly too com- ments, have not ignored the fact
mon of wasting valuable light in that women drivers have greatly the home is the use. or rather increased. With self-starters, abuse, of silk shites. Just as it simplified gear (in olden days the is injurious to the eyes to face a changing of gear was far too glaring unshaded light so is lit complicated), and light clutches, impossible to read or work com- the majority of the 1920 cars fortably and healthfully in a room could easily be driven by anywhere the lights are unreasonably
woman.
THE LADY DEMONSTRATOR. Even the likelihood of a tyre getting punctured, which used to be such a terrible bugbear, need not be feared by the woman driver if her car is equipped with the dual rin. Lady demonstrators show the method then required for changing a tyre, which consists of unscrewing and lifting off the flange of the wheel. expanding the rim slightly to enable a gap to drop out so that the rim can be contracted. The tyre then falls out. It is replaced by reversing the process. Only imin. sec. is taken by a lady demonstrator to change a tyre; an unskilled person would need about three minutes. one-armed ex-soldier also demonstrates, the simplicity and little strength required to change a tyre in this way, and training many
A
firms similarly disabled
men who would not be able to change tyres without the up-to-date device of the dual rim.
LOVELY, MOTOR CLOTHES.
2
In motoring clothes there are novelties to be seen also. A white kid coat, lined with white quilted silk and with a big collar of white brushed wool, was "luxury" garment. Another coat in thick grey suede, with a grey brushed wool collar and cap to match, was more practical but also attractive Reversible coats, one side of leather and the other of frieze, are suitable for both women and men. They will probably appeal particularly to women, who after a long run like to look neat en reaching their destination, and therefore would welcome two coats in one.
tribute of the years which extend-The little hooped gown of to-day RUSSIAN ed trum the forties to the eighties recalls the Victorian Age, even if,
time when femininity, scn-the
wearer
its represents The beautiful old sibility and sentimentality ap antithesis. peared to represent a much ap-cameos which their possessors wear. recall the preciated trinity of feminine are proud to charms.
creaking silk gown of a past age on which they were first worn. People who still can remember The latest Victorian article of the crindling of the fifties and dress to which we have fallen sixties speak of as if it was the victims is the brooch. pendant or most womanly form of attire earrings of seed pearls. These which ever existed, and yet what are becoming increasingly fash- more feminine gurment could weionable, and are certainly one of possibly have than the tea-gown the most becoming items it is of to-day. and why should the possible to imagine. The fuchsias, boops of 1919 be less unquestion-roses and hare bells fashioned, of ably feminine than the hoops of pearls graduating from the tiniesti to the ordinary- 1858? Was it because the femin-" millet seeds " inity of the Mid-Victorians was sized pearls of the Orient and more self-conscious than that of mounted on a. mother-o'-pcarl graceful and to-day? Because our ancestress-foundation are es could swoon at will, could fall beautiful relics of the past. One into a decline if the curate failed sees sets which include the single to return their love, and could bell of the fuchsia as earrings, even die of a broken heart if the while a whole cluster of blossoms squire jilted them?
forms the breach or pendant, fand there are often other clusters Even their art was self-con-intended to be sewn to black scious, and the girl who learnt to velvet ribbon to provide the But every type of play "La pluie de Perles" on the bracelets. harp probably did so because she jewellery should have the right had arms as white as milk and as setting. There are certain gowns well shaped as a statue's. As-to wit, the black velvet toilette fthe Victorian poet wrote:
In the school of coquettes
Madam Rose is a scholar. If her brooch she forgets
with which the seed pearls look triumphantly well, just as there are others which accord best with the more flamboyant dia mond, and others, again, to which quaint reproductions of old French paste
seem specially
Uto show her new collar suited.
BLOUSE.
The little Russian blouse Aketched is made of seal brown tricollette. The round neck is finished with four rows of soutache braid in the same shade. The slit kirtle repeats the design as do the snugly fitting cuffs. The blouse is 'caught in at the 'waistline by a soft six-inch sash" of self material.
subdued by the use of silken shades.
Diffuse a too powerful light by all means, but use white, shell- pisk, or violet, not red, or blue, or yellow, for your shades.
Most women will agree that shell-pink is not only possible, but in most cases suits the scheme of decoration. Violet, on the other hand, is neither pretty nor becoming. The only other alter native, therefore, is to be able to adjust bath shades and lights so that a direct ray falls on book or work or writing table, and if this cannot be accomplished one must not attempt industry in the drawing room, but be merely conversational and ornamental.
Reading by firelight is a recre- ation beloved by children, but it should never be allowed, nor should reading in bed.
There is a great deal to be said in favour of a paraffin lamp. Many book-worms attribute freedom from eye-strain to the use of the old-fashioned illumin"
ant.
Provided the wick and globe are in perfect order the light obtained by oil is powerful, steady, and particularly pleasant
as regards colour.
Almost as important as the glit itself is the angle at which it falls upon your book or work. For needlework or writing the light should come from over the left shoulder and thus avoid the formation of a shadow by the right hand; for reading the ray can fall from either side, but in all cases the light should be behind and above the worker.
It is sometimes desirable to increase the light, and this can be achieved by using a reflector. The easiest way to make a reflector is to stretch a piece of thickish white material (or matt paper) over a wooden frame. The frame should then be placed in a
The richest of all winter style combinations has become the mode agnia. While velvet and fur are always worn they "have not been used very icidely for street suits for several REAKDNS.
But with the fuller, und draped skirts velvets have find favour again.
The dress sketched above is of sapphire blue velvet. Its twin-overskirt is trimmed with iris of chinchilla, with stule, muf and had to match.
OUT OF THE RUT.
JOTTINGS.
BEAUTY SPOTS FOR THE HANDS It is quite usual to see a beauty spot on the face or neck these days, but I was very surprised to find one worn on the back of the hand. The hand was exceedingly white and pretty, and the black spot certainly enhanced its beauty, but I shouldinot advise its general adoption except by owners of really attractive bands.
FUNEREAL VELLS.
Veils this season are not con- spicuous for their prettiness, and those I have seen so far can scarcely be called becoming to their wearera. One I encountered was of the finest mesh to which Iwas attached a straight band of heary black velvet quite eight inches wide, which gave a most funereal appearance to the face. One wonders where these unhappy ideas originate. 1
THE VANISHING BODICE Perhaps it is as well that the devotees of the bare back even- ing-dress should go from bad to worse, for there is no quicker way of killing an extreme fashion. The latest variation which I ran up against had replaced the wisp of bodice in from: by a single large relvet flower, supported by two of the narrowest shoulder-straps possible. The wearer had a wonderful fur wrap, and I should guess she needed it.
UPS AND DOWNS.
nany now
Whilst our evening-dress25 day dresses descend, sorte
the balance by preserve going to the other extrame, and boast the stock collar. These are usually separate from the frock itself, so that they
as often can be renewed desired. Plaid in aoft satin, with a tiny white satin turnover, is the favourite material.
AMBER GIRDLES.
as
If you want to give a really novel touch to blue serge
buy an amber-coloured i gown chain, preferably with rather fix it just large links, and above the waist line of your One of the most striking frock, girdle wise. If you can carved medallion of jumpers I have seen this season obtain a
of
blue
panne, the same colour to finish it off so myal
Your dress and Cut or. rather sevare much the better. ines. it had a bold design should be as plain as possible, so stencilled on it in gold paint. A as to emphasise the originality of golden girdle with long swinging your girdle. tassels encircled but in no way defined the waistline.
was
EVENING DRESS IDEAS.
WOMEN SMOKERS.
ATTRACTIVE AFTERNOON FROCK.
FASHION
ART
This youthfidly attractive afternoon frock is of mid- night due satin crepe. The full, apron-like overshirt is effectively hand-feather stitch. ed in black. The short over- blouse is belted in at the waist with a string girdle of the crepe and is smartly finished with two miniature pockets set well in front of the hips.
Various chemisettes and sleevetter may be worn with this dress, but the ones shown with the original model were of sand Georgette embroider- ed in midnight blue polka dots. The little knot of ribbon at the left of the throat was of gold brocaded black relcet.
The hut with this model wix wonderful thing of black panne velvet lined with coral and trimmed with a nar- row band mail bow of grosgrain ribbon...
The majority of women ought not to smoke, for the reason women are very seldom able to Lace still helds its own in the do things in moderation. They world of evening dress, but all have a tendency to go to extremes, kinds of innovations are being and if they contract an injurious made in its treatment. Chantilly habit-be it drugging, drinking, and tinsel lace, both in gold and or smoking-they are much more silver, is a novelty; and I have likely to let it get a dangerous seen a delicate web of black lace hold on them than are men. Two ODD PINS TRIM NEW HATS. embroidered with chenille," and for three cigarettes a day cannot yet another adorned with the do much harm to any adult, but tiniest ruche of curled ostrich very few women have sufficient
self-control to stop there.
feather.
NOVELTIES IN PEARL AND FILIGREE
A great variety of pins adorn al shapes of hats this season very smart on untrimmed hats of felt or velour.
slightly sloping position a little BEAUTIFUL ENGLISH PEERESS. and these pin trimmings look
below and behind the artificial light. It is surprising what a difference in light and comfort such an easily contrived reflector can prodüce.
Wallpapers and room furnish- ings make or mar a room when regarded from the oculist's point of view. The best means of lightening a dark room is to have the walls distempered pale grey or fawn. If wallpaper is used it should be unpatterned and matt surfaced. Papers that supposed to premote a cosy appearance are often both light- absorbing and harmful to the eyesight.
The thick red paper. one so often sees is an example of the worst kind of eye-strain producer.
AN EYE LOTION.
ard
During the coming months of sye-strain use boracic acid lotion freely. To make this, put one teaspoonful of powder into a tumbler, mix to a paste with very hot water, then fill up with warm water. To bathe the eye, draw down the lower lid and place the edge of the glass against it. Open,. the upper lid as wide as possible, and douche the eye with the 'lotion by throwing the head back- wards and forwards, Never baths the eyes with sponge or piece of rag, nor use a so-called "eye-cup." Make fresh lotion every day, and onthe risks carefully covered.
Lady Francis Scott, wife of Lord Francis Scott, Colonel of the famous Grenadier Guarde, formerly Lady Eileen Elliott, daughter of Lord Minto former Governor-General of Omada.
While pins of pearl or jet are used on all sorts of hats, they are most popular on the soft, up- turned models and shapes that flare from the face. One of the best features about this trim- ming, in addition to its decora- tive value, is an ornamental pro- tective tip for the sharp point of the pin. In the case of pearl or jet pins stuck through the materi al at the front of a hat the tip at the other end is made to match the pin in material.”
Hammered gold or silver is very smart,made up in fan- shaped pins. Mother-of-pearl is one of the newest materials to be. used this way. For example, one model is trimmed at the front with a square pin of mother-of- pearl, edged with a flat gold filigree design. :)
The majority of new sport hats in small models are trimmed with long nail pins of celluloid thrust through the velvet on the side and protrading for an inch or two beyond the outline of the hat,
INERY.
mel”
JET MILLINERY.
The smal fjat looks ar
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