10
THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH. WEDNESDAY. OCTOBER 22, 1919.
HER PAGE
A
NEW EVENING GOWN.
This Caralag Glors is of Black Chiffon Telot draudi coufiutngly over a fattiget of Silver Lace. The rosage is extended into a hip wile which, in fire, foras a joint in the back and incidentally, makes ge'ear use for a'be dl. drupees.
New Gowns From Paris.
THE MODERN COIFFURE,
GRECIAN INFLUENCE,
Eve, as every artist Since her day has known, was gifted by heaven with a glory of abundant hair. It would seem, therefore, that throughout the ages, woman I should value that adornment more highly than any other. as a very symbol of feminity.
Woman, however, is not at all of that mind. As we study the various phases through which the coiffure has passed, we note with amazement the pleasure which all the daughters of Eve have taken in twisting their locks from nature's course. thinning them even to the point of having them nearly burned off, about 1905, by artificial waving.
About a year age appeared the fancy for cutting off what little hair remained, and to this we owe that mode of feminine faces which reen the youths of ancient Greece. It is to this same fashion of shott hait that we owe the mode just now of elaborately ornamented coiffures for evening
At the present moment much attention
given to these elaborate coltures, and there are Many ALTH widely differing varieties.
AUTUMN VEILINGS.
The les Paloma de the reedge isquite u Novelty. It is teen g'word lung, mad after shielding the Face front, the Autaan Breytes it eurlagles the That, cat then denpos itself grecatally in Cape fashio ingr the Shäulder.
THE CHARM OF BLACK EMBROIDERY,
JOTTINGS.
PANTALOONS OR BUSTLES!
MAN'S WAY-AND
WOMAN'S,
in the salor of an ultra smart modiste had the skirt completely covered with fringe, kept within! Individualism blossoms out in bounds by three narrow bands of pencil sharpening. A man cuts a After the riot of colour which i The powers that be in the skunk, thus avoiding the sugges- pencil with a tapering, willowy has been displayed in dazzle and fashion world a certainly on of unidiness fringe always point, pares carefully round the Furumist design it is somewhat to sare us thisayas) 12.
We hear
gives.
The induence of Orient is less marked than in recent sea- sons, and many of these coiffures take their inspiration from the folk costume of France and neighbouring countries. Flowers worn in Spanish fashion, peasant head-dresses, Dutch diaries, and the tulle streamers of Boulogne are high in favour, save with such of a relief here and there to find mud throats of crinolines, even
wood, scrapes and scrapes till all women as Madame Le Tellier. the simplicity of black.
"CROKERS " AGAIN." lis beautiful. Femininity is Un-early Vientian pantaloons have | Mrs. Addison. and Madame adorned by any colour, black embern mutioned, and in an ex-:
Ther is e metement on foot to quicker. A woman makes half a Patri, who at evening functionsbroideries strike. note of in-lusive shop I have seen a frock return in the coming season to dozen good slashes, polishes a invariably wear the hair softly dividuality and straw up the out-in which the furt to produce the extremely high-necked collar. stubby end, and is writing away waved and dressed low, adorned lines of a design in an unrivalled more width at the hips has rThe convertible collar, which was before the man has got half-way only with its own colour and the manner.
sulted not in panni shu some-high or low at will, artfully paved through the sharpening process. sheen that comes from perfect
The needlewoman who is work thing which strongly reminds one the way, but those of us who have of those horrible lastles of the felled in throat freedom for the ing in black, however, must guard party eighties. It sons there last for years will want a lot of against choosing" tco
heavy are some people who will wear persiasion befoze effects. Abo black should never anything, they are told to, but I
Hoker" amics be worked on a white background hope their numbers are the few ta Biscuit colour jade, grey. chine blue may be chosen with beautiful results, but except in special circumstances it is better to avoid stronger shades.
care.
The low backward sweeping lines of grace are those which the Parisian adopts, and the newest coiffures for evening wear fre- quently descend to the very level of the eyes.
I
OF
matter.
SQUARE PLATES
we adopt
THE MOTOR CAR COLOUR ORGY.
.
BOUND TO HAPPEN.. Sooner or latter most women succumb to the stockinet dress. For
a time they resist the temptation to buy one of these graceful gowns. Then sheepish- y they explain it was, after all, The release of petrol is rapidlyjan economy, as they wear so In their endeavour to introduce turning London into a city of well. Among the ornaments favoured
more novelty into table china the colur. for its taxis and motor- by the coiffures of this season are
designers have produced ́z num-cars spem to be vying with each THE NEW HAT ANGLE. cloth of silver and aigrettes or
It should be remembered that ben of patterns of dinner and des- jogbor in jazz arrangements. Walk- paradise. which are invariably
In consequence of high hair- services. equipped with ink from Charing Cross to dressing, it is rumoured there worn slanting toward the back ornament worked without variety sert never standing straight. Silver of colour or shading will depend square instead of round places. Chancery-lang are seen vehicles in will be no more squash or pull-on more for its offect on change in the dishes bring oblong instead of a bright purple, mauve, Jofre blue, hats. On the contrary. milinery bandeaux supporting a motif in brilliants in the middle of the stitchery than does other emoval. These mate a welcome royal blue. Grange, pale yellow, will be worn on top of the great broidery. Thus it is always wé || change after the eternal round. French grey pea green, emerald hair erections after the style of front. are also very smart, and it
to work in some little fancy back-
green, olive and bottle green, Duchess of Devonshire hats in - noticeable that they are worn. more and more, crossing the fore-round stitches in any open
The fringe fashion has proved yellow and black stripes, and old pictures.When you get over more tenacious of life than the raven and back stripés. Reds the firstshock you begin to think, thehead just above the level of the spaces which may occur in the
design.
ostrich feather voque, and still animed quite unpopular, among after all, this is interesting if A big pattern of pine branches Pears on many of the gowns axis and private cars, but scarlet exciting news. Were ever hair- makes a splendid border or heal-volved by the high priestesses of us and Royal Mail vans sup-dressing or hats so fascinating as ing for a portiere curtain, while fashion. An autumn gown seeply this lacking colour.
As the autumn fashion season covering as & bathing suit. Thyy progresses it becomes more evid-can best be described as ent that laces of all descriptions.] proverbial string of beads and a Chantilly and finer laces particul-[smile. In this case, as beads de- ary, are coming into their own pend on
strings that are not again. Renee has voted for laces.particularly durable, it would not and Mme. Renee's words have be safe to to leave off the smile. been almost law in Paris for thei It is significant to note that the last year. She also has voted for Callots are showing three dis. panniers
tinct types of dresses. One- Although Mme. Renee my stub Panniers or fat-ended hip dresses her toe in making evening dresses which the Callot sisters attempt too extreme, she picks herself up ed to launch last spring. Two easily on afternoon frocks, for Draped models that are made of they have just enough extended ļa single piece fabric, draped hip line to be new, and not en-around the figure from a point on ough to be exaggerated. Mme. one shoulder. Three-Straight Renee also favours skirts shorter one-piece dresses. rich in Oriental than "over, and the American embroideries, all of which would buyers are beginning to see that indicate that the Callots are not they no longer can resist them at all sure French women, will They give the season for not accept without reservation pan. baving wanted them before thatniers and "fassy" ekirts to ang American women do not have the great extent. slender ankles of the Parisienne. Bareback dresses are not new therefore they do well to hide to the Callots. They have pushed them.
the back to nature" styles for A new effective trimming in many years, and having the sup troduced by Renee shows little port of all Paris, they have squares taking the place of em-decided there is no limit to the broidery, or discs of velvet pasted idea. The Callots always liked upon the skirt in a border. Renee the idea of showing the knee. also uses narrow strips of patent: Therefore, if their skirts are not leather pasted upon blue serge, actually short to kase length, which gives the effect of jet em- they are split up the front far broidery.
above the knee. Drecoll, another Paris house, is Jenny also favours the back showing quantities of beautiful that nature gave us, and in re- laces. Although laces are favour-gard to the front-well, she mere- ed everywhere, there are no heavy puts her stamp on a piece of Vonetian or Irish laces to be pet.
BOON.
eges.
Some youthful heads are. crowned with very narrow bands flond tulle on which a string fovels is mounted.
Although of many kinds, these ornaments of the coiffure have one thing ic common-all emphasize horizontal rather than vertical lines, a mode which lends effect to the eyes and the oval of the face.
However mucli disgnised it has been, it is unquestionably Greek influence which has prevailed in our costumes during the past seven or eight years. The mode is both rational and beautiful.
materials in hig plaids and checks
are used.
the
|
the black effect might be used in ment curtains in the same room. some simple stitcheries for cas The best way of working the plo needles is with a lovely draw loop stitch, showing quite a visible spare between earl thread. This stitch will provide a firm outline for each motif,) which is very desirable when the pattern is big and bold. On a smaller piece of work the pines) could be worked in straight out- lice. but this gives. a more feathery effect. The cones and branches may he worked in solid stitch to bring out strongly the characteristics of the design.
The placing of a border on a curtain should always be a matter Brown brick, red, green and for careful consideration. It every shade that approaches cop should either be well clear of the per are undoubtedly the colours bottom hem or about a quarter of of the season and in so far as the length away from the top, so trimmings are concerned
that it may slider free from the chickens have been plucked of folds of the fulness below the their plumage to adorn other pole. A deep hem, stitched with
a drawn-thread border in black! wool makes an effective border for such a design. Crewel wool should be used for the work.
birds.
If one can draw on the imagine tion to find green chickens in Paris, he can find a description of one of Jenny's evening dresses in green tulle with two bands of green chicken feathers running around the waist to hold it out at the hip line. Brown chicken feathers also are shown on brown tulle dresses and brown velvet capes.
While all dresses bave now hip
CROSSING THE LINE.
It is a pity that fashionable modistes cannot leave a pretty fashion at the point when it is still pretty and has not crossed the border-line to the semi ridiculous. For trimming on
Therefore, with the knee The dressmaking industry, like length skirt, there is little left of all other French industries, is the dress to describe save the accepting no outside influence and belt. What there is left of it, no imported fabics, Chantilly laces however, is based on an eighteenth in their various imitations and century design minus the wires. all fine thread laces are favoured. bones, tightness and stiffness. draperies, they are moderate, so Many of Drecoll's lace skirts are Extended hip lines are all there, that the slender lines the French worn over shorter foundations but they do not extend. They have insisted on would not be gossamer-like evening frocks can and often over chiffon culottes. merely fall with their own soft lost. The waistline is long and give a really beautiful effect,
Evening dresses being shown ness.
the sleeves short regardless of but to ally long. atraggling in the autumn fashion displays Cheruit, too, favours the now the time of the day when the fur of the gostakin variety to continue to be as in the matter of hip movement, but not exaggerat-dress is worn. There are no chiffon or georgette is both un- covering as scant in the matter of ed. All of the fuzzy, woolly blouses with separate skirta. forgivable and unnecessar
SUBDUING THE FRINGE.
THE PERFECT FIGURE.
MARTHA TAPOOP
This is the proper way to take breathing exerci "before an open window, and wear loose clothing.
Stand
Ithose of that time?
Miss Martha Throop, who has a perfect type of figure which she claims is the result of correct exercises, writes as follows:-
On proper breathing depends all the first steps toward beauty and strength.
Take breathing exercises for fifteen minutes every morning un- Fil yui iure established the habit of correct breathing.
Eifteen minutes 54 any one physical ezercise is enough. Don't orer do it.
Do your breathing exercises in the open air or at an open window.
Don't wear any clothing that will restrict you.
Hold your arms in the position shown in the picture. You will notice the shoulders. ure raised. Always lift your shoulders before you start to inhale. - Lift your shoulders, then fill your lungs with air. Then exhale quickly and repeat.
This sort of thing develops the
arms, and shoulders developing the chest.
well
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