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HONG KONG DAILY PRESS FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 21, 1936.
THE CONQUEST
OF EVEREST
Can It Be Done This Year?
London Jan 29.
On Friday the advance party ci the second Mount Everest expedi- tlon, led by Mr. Hugh Ruttledge. will leave England for Darjeeling. the jumping-off place for this new attempt to conquer the world's highest peak, writes a correspon- dent.
As during the 1933 Everest, ex- pedition, Mr. Rutledge will send news cables, articles and photo- graphs describing the progress of the climbers direct to "The Dally Telegraph." which will alone pu- blish these in the United King- dom.
Of all the difficulties and ha- zards that will confront the ex- pedition, the culminating effort, to
overcome
the last 2.000ft-a supreme test of man's ingenuity and endurance against some of Nature's most powerful forces- will undoubtedly excite the grea- test public attention.
Mr. Ruttledge said to me, yester- day: "With our present know- the ledge of the geography and climbing conditions
Mount Everest, this last 2.000ft is really the only remaining problem.
"Between the great ice wall of the North Col 23,000ft up, with the flerce gates that are encoun- tered, and the foot of what has come to be known as the Yellow Band, at 27,000ft, there are now no technical mountaineering dif- culties whatever."
FORMIDABLE OBSTACLES
Between these two points the climbers will proceed over solid rock, swept clear of snow and ice by the tremendous force, of the north-west wind biows across the face, of the mountain. But when they reach the series of steep cliffs which characterise the last stage, the expedition will be faced with a series of formidable ob- stacles.
This long and dangerous slope was likened by Mr. Eric Shipton to a tiled roof on a gigantic scale, with the rock in terraced form, and at an angle of 45deg. Nor is this all. At intervals along, the ILATOW sloping ledge which the climbers have to negotiate there be cir- are gaps which have to cumvented.
On this ledge, at a height of 27,880ft, Mr. Rustledge proposes to establish his highest camp Camp 7-over 400it above the last camp in his previous expedition. From this point the members of the party selected for the final dash to the summit will tackle tae big- gest climbing feat of their lives.
Between Camp. 7 and the peat lies one great natural barrier that has so far baffled all attempts to scale the last 500 feet. This is known as the Great Couloir, 2 gully of ice-covered rock with steep, slippery sides. From Camp
7 to the summit is only 1,200ft, a few minutes' walk in normal con- ditions, but on the top of Everest
COURT MOURNING
Royal Fashions Of Last Century
London, Jan. 27. The Earl Marshal's order that Tadles who intend to be present in St. George's Chapel. Windsor. to-morrow shall wear "bonnets or smali hats with a short vell about 18in. over the face and a long one about one and a half yards over the back of the head" is a reminder that there are traditions in ceremonial mourning in spite of changes in materials and fashions, have not altered for nearly a century.
The
which.
Long veils have always been a part of Court mourning. though they have to a large extent pass- ed from private use.
older ladies of the Royal Family have always favoured the Marle Stuart cap or bonnet, which lends itself to easy draping of the lang vell at the back, and within the last few
daye orders for this type of head-
a task of almost superhuman dress have been given. After the
effort because of the rarefied air and the great natural climbing dufculties
Mr. Shipton. one of the few men who has reached 28,000ft, the highest yet attained, so far as is known, explained to me some of the disadvantages experienced at that height. "I found I was gra- dually losing strength day by day," he said. "This was due to the thin air and the lack of proper sleep, food and comfort, which made ef- fort increasingly. :arduous.”
death of the
Prince
Consort. Queen Victoria adopted the point- ed Marie Stuart bonnet in place of the more usual widows bonnet, This pointed bonnet had already been in use for many years for mourning at foreign Courts, where It was worn with a long crêpe vell which hung like a mantle. It was generally adopted by
widows in this country after the example had been set by Queen Victoria,
Among the small black hats which are being worn at the pre- sent time are small Breton caflor It is in such circumstances that hats with hardly any brim and a the Anal dash will have to be narrow turn-up all round: these made. Only two climbers can be are mounted on a bandeau, and accommodated at Camp 7 at one are made in feit or straw. Small time, and to achieve success the hats in stitched satin. Je't, ciré the selected men will have to satin, and braided nets are also climb from the camp to the sum being worn, and all of them have mit and return between sunrise short veils as part of their design. and sunset in a single day.'‚'No human being could possibly sur- vive a night in the open at that alutude in the climatic conditions that prevali,
1
CHANGES IN MATERIALS Materials for mourning clothes show the biggest changes in the usages of mourning. In one of the If the first two men fall they mourning that issued on Novem- earllest existing orders for Court will have to return to the base by ber 7: 1817. for the Princess Char- stages, and two others, from Camp lotte, daughter of the Prince Re 6, will take their places, for, as Mr. Ruttledge pointed out, "it is went and Consort of his Serene most unlikely that any man who Highness Prince, Leopold of Baxe- Cobourg, the Lord Chamberlain's has made the attempt could make.
order read, "The Ladies to wear another in the same year" lack bombazines, plain muslin, or statement which clearly illustrates
ong Lawn Crape Hoods, Shamoy the strain imposed on the human Shoes and Gloves and Crape, Fans. physique.
Undress-Dark Norwich Crape."
- ""The" knowledge we gained last In 1881 the frst order for Court time," he added, “should be 'of ] mourning for the Prince Consort treat help to us in scaling this (dated December 16) read,” “The last lap.
Ladies attending Court to wear
black woolen Stuffs trimmed with Crape, plain linen, black Shots and Gloves and Crape fans," A siccnd order, dated December 31, 1801. read, "The Ladies to wear black silk dresses trimmed with Crape and black Bhoes and Gloves, black fans, feathers and orna- ments." On February 17, 1862, an order to change mourning read, "The Ladies to wear black Dresses with white Gloves, black or white Shoes, Fans and Feathers and Pearls, Diamonds or plain Gold or
HO
the
Silver, Ornaments." In the order for general mourning for Prince Consort, the expression "decent mourning" was also used.
It is generally known that King George the Firth disliked black, and it was worn only when strict- ly necessary by those about him. In consequence of this many of those in Court circles had very little black in their wardrobes and, like members of the public, had to haste Tuesday order it in morning. His Majesty had strong views on women's dress which modified with the passing of the years. The dresses of the little Princesses. a the recent Royal Wedding were said to have been Influenced by his Majesty's views on what children should wear. The Queen's views on colour have been shown by her partiality for pastel flower shades which, to the great pleasure of her, poorer sub- jects, she habitually wore on visits to the East End of London. When wearing dark winter furs, her Majesty, usually added small nosegay of flowers which, like the. late King's fondness for a button- hole, relieved. the sombreness of dark attire.
a
LACE AND TULLE FOR EVENING
After a season of stiff silk and velvet, the delicate charm of lace and tulle is welcome. Material for evening dresses are of fragile or- der, soft chiffon, and cobweb lases are now used in place, of the stif lice run, with cellophane that äp- peared in late summer. The silm silhouette, is maintained beneath these transparent shadow effects,
und
SECRETS
fulness is obtained by the OF NATURAL
MAKE-UP
quantity of material used, rather than by texture.
The true purpose of make-up is to emphasize your loveliest features and disguise your worst. Innoxa aids to loveliness have been created to assist this effect of natural beauty --- not to give a mask-like reproduction of your face. Innoxa Powder, rouge, lipsticks and creams are all available in shades to harmonise with your colouring and the sew innoxa Beauty Quide includes a helpful make-up colourscope that simplifies the enhancement of narural beauty according to your individual type. It is available free from all high-
Some chiffon dresses have til's class departmental stores, chemists and
round the foot recalling the fash-beauty salons.
ions of the 'eighties. In others
the material is kilted and to main- tain the slim silhouette skirts are much gored about the hips. One designer encircles the bottom of " the skirt with frills which are 'carried up to the waist at the
back.
In the new theme there is more trimming about the arms cob webby lace is especially decorative used in this way. Draperies are very adaptable and are used in many different ways. They may. for instance, hang on the skirt, or be lifted up over the shoulders of wound round the arms.
or the drapery may hang as a cascade
down the back of a frock, or en- velope the wearer like a shawl. Fringe is sometimes used to accen- tuate a drapery, it may be cut or of the loop variety but is always very soft in texture.
Stiff silk is used for the coats and capes worn with these dresses. The one illustrated is made of shot
and taffeta in deep green. rust and is worn with flesh pink chiffon. The bouffant shoulder effect gives character to the soft clinging frock. For this type of wrap moire silk with a lamé sheen is good or a fur capelette in er- mine may be worn. A deep green dress looks well with white fur, for these heavier touches, accen tuate the delicate and fragtle sppearance of the new evening styles.
H
Marafoni
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