Page
HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, JULY 5, 1935.
SUMMER Style
COLOUR IN JEWELLERY
ACCENTS
Clips, Rings And Bracelets
DRESSES FOR THE
YOUNGER SET
Jewelry has been slowly un- dergoing certain changes which today give it fresh characteristics.
In the first place, it must make its initial appeal to the purchaser. by proving its sultability to the dress fashions of the moment and to the various classifications, such as sports, town wear, formal after- noon, formal and informal evening modes.
Without this appeal even in- trinsic beauty will not render the pleces acceptable, for costume at. present is integrated; that is each Item stands in demonstrable re- lation to all the other Items, and Jewelry must synthesize or, in other cases, contrast, the main theme of the costume. When properly used. It is always pur- poseful beyond the mere exploit- ation of its own intrinsic value or loveliness.
A second change is, based on the wide and approved use of semi- precious stones and even of simu- and lated semiprecious stones;
have also of what would once been called "base materials." To- day no material is "base" that can interest of an contribute to the ensemble. The unparalleled range of colors offered by semiprecious jewels give them definite ad- vantages over precious gems, so that the choice is based not on in cost but on decorative value relation to a dress problem. To express this new standard," set- tings wrought with particularly fine workmanship often are given to stones that may be in them- selves inexpensive, honoring them, as it were, for their sheer charm; and such materials 85 wood, leather, and bone may serve as backgrounds for good stones and fine craftsmanship.
The chemical laboratory is re- sponsible for a third develop- ment. In the constant evolution synthetics, 2 of
number new have been developed that are sultable to jewelry. Crystal and catalin. for instance, used 28 settings for stones have, on ac- count of their specific character.. inspired designs and styles that are different from any type of gold... and silver settings.*
These changes are all funda- mental. Fundamental also is the new sensitiveness of designers to various "Infiver.ces.". We have
modern
seen Regency and Victorian in-". fuences translated into pieces suitable for
ways of living; more recent yet is the East Indian influence which is giving üs Hindu, together with Turkisti Greek and African ornament as prototyes. The themes them- selves are transitory, but the" impulse to reflect in ornamental forms ourrent events and interests" is decisive and new,
313
As we look at the contemporary picture, having thought costume integration, we shall become aware of the causes de- termining current jewelry design. For instance, we shall perceive that the reason why daytime necklaces are growing longer and being composed of multiple strands is because daytime neck- lines are being cut lower. This explains also the return of the long earring, which delineates a pleasing.contour above a brief de- colletage, Draped bodices, pleat ed lapels, fluffy, jabots all encour~ · age the use of clips, for they cón- trol fullness better than brooches can. Elbow sleeves "give Import-
ance
idea of costume Integration. The amethyst is conspicuous at present because of the momentary vogue for all the purple tones. Regency color schemes are glad to make use of tourmalines, zircons, peridots, acquamarines topazes, and lapis. Victorian styles are complemented by branch-coral, garnets, turquoise, rhinestones, and colored enamels. Oriental fabrics. brought into the fore- ground of fashion by the intro- duction" of "modified, saris and ihrams, by Turkish trouser hems, and Greek drapery, demand heavily fashioned ornaments of silver and gold, hammered and studded with stones.
American design has concerned "Itself largely with sports jewelry, Catalin, clear or opaque, carved favorite material.
or plain, is a
For bracelets and necklaces it is
are
often cut into bold, irregular shapes, which are joined by bands of metal. Semiprecious stones and simulated stones often imbedded in the catalin, and are usually cut in cabochon form, that Is, high and pointed, without facets. Crystal Is a little more delicate and is, perhaps, prefer- able for the evening frock or cotton or linen. Many other.com- positions appear on the counters. Our illustration shows one called "caviar." because of its granular
appearance. It looks as if it might be molded of cork combined with some "glistening material. The necklace, bracelet, ring and sulte, are popular. Color la rampant in sports jewelry, and rightly so, for it comes Into its own against the background of.
nature.
Delle
Delicacy in Silver and Gold
clip, all en to.. bracelets different in design from those made to wear over the long sleeves of winter frocks. The summer season also encourages the heavy informal ornaments appropriate to wear with cotton and linen frocks; and as these materials are carried over into the evenings, we find also u large number offered for informal after-dark occasions, which are only slightly more delicate than those made for the side lines. For each category of costume the season has brought a new mess- age.
Highly Colored Stones The vogue for highly colored- stones is an expression, too, of the
Much gold filigree is seen in * Regency ... pieces, -- which are characterized by delicacy and.
express the charina or the › ultrafeminine woman They are strongly contrasted with the pond- rous ornaments of the Orient, where femininity has a diferent connotation. These are fashioned of allyer and, gold, embossed. chased and enameled and set, with carved stones and superbly cut camera, The Oriental intuence,
BATHING CLOTHES
What's new in bathing clothes? What makes them look definitely 1933? Well, new colours, for in- stance. Strange greys and caramels and ink-blues are smart for the unter. And new fabrica-satin lastez yarn fabrics,"slithery and · real-like. Two flattering new con lours are cocoa-nut and caramel. which are lovely with a moderate tan. Or try glacial blue. Or grey. -but a deeper grey than we suw last year. Or yellow singed with
orange.
particularly as it sprang from Byzantium, was reflected in a good deal of the Victorian jewelry, so that this comes closer in some respects to Oriental design than does any other European style. "
these Outside of
categories, dwelling unperturbed An its beautiful Ivory tower, we find Although "precious" jewelry, gentle zephyra from foreign climes may sometimes waft their way into its studios, on the whole, its artists are nouristed more by their own emotions and genius than by breezes from the outside. The clientele is conservative, and although it wants its pearls re strung and its gems reset at frequent intervals, It never wants catalin or simulated stones. The design of fine jewelry this season is paying great attention to clasps, which are beautifully worked and, In the case of necklaces, often puzzlingly numerous. This is ex- plained by the fact that necklaces are often made so as to break into segments which can be used: Ba bracelets or rings." Buch fewelry is styled for formal dress. Once upon a time it was the only kind of jewelry that ladies wore:; but the value of ornanment with all types of costume has grown rapid- ly in appreciation ceptance of the Bre
It has become the touch to every kind
Hollywood's younger players have been. making extensive additions to their wardrobes late- ly.
Ida Lupino, who will appear opposite Gary Cooper in Para-
mount's
is "Peter Ibbetson," wearing becoming frock in blank and white cotton with a blas fine and a full skirt.
a
"At the front decolletage à pair of fame-coloured poppies stress the importance, of colour con- trast, and the shoulders are cap- ped by single flounces of the côt- ton fabric
Kathleen Burke, who appears! in". Paramount's Famous *The Lives Of A Bengal Lancer" is wearing a summer dinner dress of the "shirtmaker" variety.
It is in striped sporta silk with four patch pockets, and the bodice carries huge lapels. A brilliant cerise handkerchief tes at the neckline and completes the charming ensembl
TULIP COLLAKS
exacuy
The collar, fashioned lké a large tulip, is baying a most succesful run in Hollywood
to
COIFFURES
That Are Different
Hair at the present time is treated a good deal jike a fabric, It is cui, divided into sections, draped in: a great variety of ways, and molded and twisted into ar- rangements composed of colls and clustered "sculptural” curls, which....... might be called ornament.
In the hands of professionals It lends itself so readily to ma nipulations of this kind that one wonders that such casual amateurish styles were ever ac- cepted by well-dressed women as those which they
in the Wore 1930's, and, indeed, for many years subsequent to that decade, when the cult of naturalism was rampant.
To-day, naturalism is certainly not rampant! Contemporary beauty is a result of artice. No matter how lovely a foundation nás ture may have laid, It is but the raw material out of which are de- veloped the"
utlimate effects.
These, if they are chle, are com- positions,, or creations, by those experts, those... '"artistes," who practice their crafts in beauty parlours.
Hair can be made so positive a factor in developing the most at- tractive aspects of a 'face, that among the beauty-parlour arts, that of the colffure is fundament- al
NATURAL WAVE The basis of all coiffures to-day is a permanent oz a natural wave. The medium and the long bobs are the favourite cuts, for 1 is possible to do almost anything with hair of these lengths, where- as long hair will not cunfnum to So the style of clustered curls. important is a contour that molds the head, that before a finger wave is given the hair is usually clipped into a number of different lengths, and very often thinned, so that it will Be upon the head, or fit the head, one might say, so closely that its ova is well de- Aned,
When these prelimu.aries have been completed, three considera-* tions must be weighed in deter- mining a coiffure:
1. The present style of hair- dressing.
2. The emphasis of the_good points in a face and the conceal- ment of the poorer ones.
3. The individuality of the wearer, both th relation to her manner and occupations and in relation to the clothes she will be likely to select.
The present style
:
Maya's
HONG KONG
New Shipment
of
HATS
All the Latest Styles.
South Arcade.
Eve
Opposite Hong Kong.
Hotel
China Building
Gloucester Building.
Beach Pyjamas
2 & 3 Pieces "Clearing at
$1.95
Bathing Suits
all pure wool
effects which, after "the hair is prushed out loosely, obliterate the „ ̈ means by which the results have been obtained.
The development of the finest. qualities in a face is a very indl- vidual problem always, for no two faces have the same balance of attractive and less attractive planes and lines; one face may have a profile that gives no pro- blem whatever and a full face that is difficult, and vice versa. In general it may be said, how- ever, that the fashionable puff curls on the forehead are effec- tive in diminishing the appar-. ent breadth of a face and the weight of heavy features, largely because the curls become the center of attention. It is 10- gical, then, that a harrow face. with delicate traits may be too- much attenuated by such a bang, and can wear more becomingly a circlet of curls around or part ly around the forehead, whose effort will be to add force and im- pressiveness to a slender broW, Moreover, in the first case cited-
that of the too heavy features--it would be a pity to use, the bang as a remedy it, the hairiine hap- pened to be particularly attractive. In this case some other diminish- ing contour should be designed which would leave unobscured the beauty of a finely delineated fore- head.
FROM THE NECKLINE
swept up from the neckline
01arly nattering to a well-
dressing reveals the ears, carries one portion of the pair forward Among those who helped
from the crown and a second por- popularise this fashion is Julie tion upward from the nape of the Haydon, who plays opposite Noel neck, These two basic lines are Coward in the Hecht-MacArthur achieved by partings and elabor- Paramount im-"The Scound-ated by more partings-circular. rei", which...... marks the famous Enigshman's screen debut.
She wears a navy crepe frock - with a tulip collar of stiffened white pique and a huge wooden buckle at the waist-line,
THE NEW SARI
FASHION
The harbinger of a new cycle of fashions from Hollywood is...... the sar
A long chizon veil, worn with an evening, wrap and usually clipped to the shoulder. goes over the head and traïs glamo has been, atax
diagonal, horizontal, perpendicu lar-that are very effective in developing and suppressing the planes of the face,
After the partings have been laid in, the hair, as strategic post- tions, is divided into very small: strands and these are colled into small, rigid curts. The strategie position for the forward. move-
head, but the proportions existing between neck and head will determine whether the row of curls above this area of plain or gently undulated bair, shall be horizontal, or V-shaped, or dia gonal. The experienced operator is able to judge these matters without trial by error.d
Another element enters into the determination of the coiffure de- sign and that is the particular style of the client. Is she tailor made or fluffy? Will she wear sallor hats or Regency bonnets? - Of course & coiffure can not be changed as often as a hat is, and of course it will reveal itself with- cut any hat for longer periods of time than with one; but, never-2
ment may be the forehead, wheretheless, the prevailing hat s
the curls will be formed into a bang, or into a fringe, or into ‘a circles. The upward movement may be expressed by a row of sculptured curls laid in on a levet with the top of the ease, or one which ascends from the ears to the crown; or a more loftly, top
knots. These areas of curls are united by soft fuger waves.
LITTLE GROTESQUE
If all this sounds a little tesque, it must be remembered Paramount that it is only a technique, a me thod used for producing certati
houettes, must be considered.
from $4.50
TAFFETA FOR CHARM
Mary Ells, who stars in Para- mount's. "Paris In Spring," con- siders that taffeta is a materia) that never loses its pecullar charm.
In the flm she wears an after- noon dress of black taffeta, made with a tight bodice in late Victo rian style. The bodice buttons down the front and ends in a chic ittle basquet-also shaped to the figure-with a narrow belt. The long skirt, "which falls from the basque, is fared to fall in graceful lines.
The short sleeves of this dress erable Miss Ells to wear the long gioves which are her pet ex- travagance. In this case the gloves are of black suede and match, her French heeled Court shoes. The ensemble is completed by & silver fox fur, and a try black taffeta hat with an aigrette rising from the centre of the
crown.
In "Paris In Spring" Miss Ellis shows that atver picoting is the latest fad for negligee trimming
She wears a delightful bondolt gown of fame-coloured tulle, with ruchings edged in silver. £t has large and graceful sleeves, falling from a desh-coloured slip which forms a deep yoke.
It is only for boudior wear that Miss Ellis likes to wear, flame and other brilliant colours. For the daytime she chooses Navy blue, black, grey, brown or some pastel tint. For evening' gowns Crude she likes black or white. colours are barred, and she con-pd
siders that red should be worn only by blondes