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LONDON FASHIONS

For The Party Season

Crêpe lamé materials illustrate the use of rich fabrics for slim streamline dresses that flow into trains. The lames on coloured grounds look lighter than those in plain metal. A pale absinthe. green, allied gold, is now fashion- able; pale salmon-pink' and pastel "sky-blue are often allied with a silver design, "and white and honey colour are found with gold and silver. The newer lamės show a stronger gleam in gold and silver.

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Shiny surfaces are also seen in satin, whether plain or beauté or reversible of the heavy "Buchesse" type. Many cellophane materials are also shown for the evening."

Floor Length Frocks

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Floor length frocks for dancing are being made of taffeta, "poult de sole," shot and plain. and also of satin fh picture stylca." Velvet in contrasting colours is seen in necklines and sashes, and picture frocks, of silver and grey, show shades of Jade, cyclamen and amethyst in the folded col- lars and on the bodies. Qull- ting, which is now a recognized trimming, gives a sedate air to picture frocks, as when a dance frock of black falle has

a big cavaller shoulder collar of pink quilting and the skirt is lined at the hem with pink and quilted through. Softer dresses for young girls have net over-akirts with many flounces and mounted on taffeth; over the shoulder are brought ruched frills which are finised with a big sash bustle bow. "Tulle is also for older women, one frock of black tulle over satin has flat frills arranged in sharp pagoda angles. A dinner gown of "black satin has a net "decollet- age": the bell-shaped detachable skirt is of stiffened net with bands of square metal paillettes.

Calf-Length Frocks

Useful two purposes is a calf- length marocain frock with. & short tunic of its own material edged with fringe; a lamé tunle with a swathed sash transforms it into a dinner or cocktail frock, Lamé tunics, some with long. sleeves and others with short open puff sleeves, can be worn with velet or satin skirts. There are also informal "dinner gowns of black "eloky" or "broché”. materials with big sleeves and broad decorative gold belts: others are of crepe allied ""with" velvet in two tones, such as dull red and garnet red. On a black frock a variegated bunch of contrasting flowers is usual, and on a coloured frock the flowers are of the same colour, light and dark. A waxy little orchid spray

velvet

Gowns of incrushable and of faconné velvet · in small designs on "poult de safe." travel and pack well, and so do lace frocks with the sign outlined In copper thread. Capes are now the favourite accessories to in- formal gowns.

Shoes

The most important plece of news about shoes this year is one that I have already handed on more than once, namely, the in- aistence of lower heels for all sorts of occasions,

Among the better looking sum- mer examples there is a great deal of fine white kid, stitched in tiny tucks to look like piqué, and.. comined with black or dark brown or navy blue. You and this irry ties, in sandals, and in court

shoes, but only at places where they go in for fine workman- ship.

Another very elegant. shoe, with * strap.. is entirely in white leather. except for very delicate lines of stitching in brown, nàvy, or black.

Many of the beach or cruising sandals have open toes

HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 28, 1934.

FASHION ASSUMES A

SPARKLING AIR

There is no doubt that gleam- ing fabrics and glitter skllfully Introduced have largely taken the place of bright colours this sea- son. In the daytime the Shining gré belts or embroiderel stones on to kid or suedé fulfi" the same otice for day wear.

As only to be expected in this age of revivals, we have returned to many charming ideas from the end of last century. The spark- les of the past were not. always in the best taste. They conveyed a sense of undus opulence, much so that the exclusive dresser of that date rather avoided beads in -general.

An exception was the beautiful model-known as The Cost of Mail" a closely, massed grouping of requins, costly and weighty. Each sequin, when of the beat, was then sewn on as Dow-by hand. Similar work to-day is light, and dainty.

Sparkle is best when allled to Cull fabric and sober colouring:

All-black is successful, when treated this way. A new model is a dull black falle, slightly

white frock, or with yellow. A. tunte" of black sequing softly mounted on white crêpe and worn with a girdle of jet looks well on a trained white dinner. gown.

A black tulle ball-frock with apion and bustle draperies of tiny. silver sequins can be worn effec-.. tively with silver shoes.

Another method of using | sequins is" with cloque fabrics. This crinkly material looks de- lightful when. peppered with amali, dull'sequins' in the form of embroidery: especially in the dark raisin tone, that colour that suits the woman of all ages.

Silvered Flower Centres

Embroidered flowers are a pret- ty fashion, but must not be used in too great profusion · Cut-out blossoms of cloth Are Smart especially if dark and the centre either in diamante or sliver and gold, Black velvet flowers with silvered centre successfully out- lined a black satin décollétage. and pale green cloth Rowers (with a dark centre) can be arranged in a spray high to the throat of a

trained, and beautifully fitted.white crêpe demi-tollette. -...

This has a culrass of gleaming sequins with long sleeves,

The sequined range is now be ing skilfully treated. A gunmetal lace is dusted with silver sequins

There PARIS FASHIONS and mounted on a silver cloth,

are a few models, however, very good-looking ones, too, in which, although the.... foot in general is very much exposed, the actual toes are covered. You can find this in canvas. leather, or linen. and it is really far more satisfac- tory for the average foot, more especially in very hot weather, when toes are seldom apt to look their best.

A kind of basket work, somë- times in white, or in belge or dark. brown, and strongly reminiscent of the way they used to cane chairs, appears on beach sandals and walking shoes to a consider- able extent. The shoes in which this is most used are usually strapped in a modified sandal. shape, very neat to look at and very cool to wear.

Court or low tie shoes are also mače in brightly colured kids- scarlet, bright blue, or green, With some ensembles, mostly monotone except for one" other note of the same vivid colour, these can be very effective.

Sandal Stockings

If, as so many wise people pre- fer to do, you wear stockings with your comfortable cruising sandala, there is a choice of two new and very suitable varieties for the purpose. One of them has a separate division for the big toe. and the other is seamless, so that there is no straight line to inter-.. rupt the roundness of the leg.

Mesh and lace stockings con- tinue to be popular.

ex-

The lastex stockings are cellent for hard wear and extraor- dinarily comfortable. Not only because of their stretchable band at the top, just where it is most needed, but because they defy the ravages of suspenders' so bravely, and therefore do so much to establish their wearer's peace of mind. For ordinary summer wear,

however, most people prefer a sheerer stacking, and you can get these in innumerable grades and at a wide range of prices,

All the pinkish belge and sun tan colourings are good for sum- mery frocks and sporta things. For the evening you will probably choose a lighter tone and an ex- Ceedingly fine gauge, unless, of course, you are one of the people. who insist on a very through tan. In this case it is nearly always best to match your stocking to your degree of sunburn.

When we wore short skirts we matched our stockings to our arma for the sake of balance. Now that legs are much less In evidence there is usually a gene- rous proportion of back, and the

can be worn with white or black; same tone for skin or the illuston

frocks and there- are crimson,

velvet roses for black net evening

of skin, wherever 21s shown looks

more pleasingi than

frocks where the shoulder line is, the scrappy eköcts of ridifferent

of the black net.

degrees of colour,

Formal and Informal

There is a marked difference between informal and formal evening clothes Formal evening. dresses cannot be too rich in col- our and material. Made of heavy. gatins, silks, crepes, and velvets - they are cut on diverse lines; Vionnet for instance makes a full skirt, Mainbocher's is tight to the knees with a full godet Bounce below, and the close-fitt-.. ing mermaid line, ends in a long, narrow train. The colours for velvet are ruby red, sapphire blue," topaz yellow, emerald green: those for satin are pearly, grey, oyster white, rose pink, primrose yellow, mushroom grey, brown. and green. Shot taffetas, tulles lace lend themselves to full skirts and gathered and honeycombed . draperies.

Informal evening clothes are neat and simple. Black is prefer- red, though Maggy Rouff Has' a series of checked taffetas with white collars of highly polished Linen,

Jackets are worn at all

hours. In the morning they are of knitted wool,' fur, or woollen cloth; in the afternoon they are of satin, velvet, lame, sequin, or net. Many evening dresses have a little jacket bodice which but- tons at the back or front. For warmth and appear- ance nothing is better than a fox or ermine cape..

In the morning the simplicity of low heeled shoes, 'tweeds, scar- ves, over coats, and little hata is contradicted by artificial com- plexions and studied hairdress- ing.

The ruche collar is rather new?' and the fullness of the bodice is gathered to the throat, to make

One of the most striking even- ing mods of this season is a semi- trained black taffeta. There are. huge bows from bustle to hear the hem, the first bow starting at the low back, just above the waistline. Then come shoulder- straps of scarlet feather fringed each side. The front of the cor-

and a bronze lace has the pattern Jutlined in glittering bronze and gold beads. The sequined frocks "will reach their height of popula-sage consists of the taffeta dragg='

rity at the early Hunt Balls. In black, silver and other dull tones these dance frocks stand out well in a throng of dancers.`

"

Many modern young women affect a black sequined cape. belt and handbag to wear with

a

a frill or ruche, which is drawn more to the back than the front. Evening dresses are given this full neckline by gathers, but there is no frill 'above the cord which makes a low line about the shoul ders.

41

Figured materials will be worn in the South Small patterns, spots, stripes, checks, and dice are printed on or interwoven with silk crepes and woollen jer- seys; plain coats often go with them. The skirts button at the back and the bloused bodices are made

with with round necks turned down collars; there is si big soft bow in front, full sleeves drape the upper atm, and on the forearm 15 a tight, cuff. -A neat belt is

worn and the coat has slanting pockets and

no collar. In green, navy blue, mixed Fel- lows and browns, the combination of a figured dress and a plain coat is once more the fashion.

ed up to the base of the neck where two large black and scarlet paradise plumes stand out on either side. This novelty of wide- spreading paradise plumes is used for an evening capelet with black

tulle.

CRUISING SUITS

With certain plain ensembles, Avery severe cruising suit of lmen tweed or heavy all, for example, you can wear gloves of crocheted string with advantage. They wash splendidly, and can look equally well with a dark London ensemble; but with any "thing" fussy, or with printed

materials, they should be tabu

Fabric gloves in white or yellow or beige remain perfect travell ing companions. They can be washed overnight and will be dry in the morning, and with the as- sistance of a good hat and shoes will do more to maintain a fresh Appearance... ... than almost any- thing else

Embarrassing

"Smith" met. Brown" in the street and asked for a match. Brown obligingly went through six,” poc« kets and from each produced a bottle of aspiring,

"Great Scott!" said Smith.""Are you becoming a drug ne

belt all the

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1936

Season's Greetings

and

Best Wishes for 1935

from

The Hongkong & Shanghai Hotels, Ltd.

BEMINDER

NEW YEAR'S EVE “GALA CARNIVALS

AT OUR HOTELS

Entertainment bys

TILL 3 A.M.

THE SX HOLLYWOOD BLONDES

AND

ANDREW & URSULA

AT THE

HONGKONG AND PENINSULA HOTELS

Reservations and Enquiries:

HONGKONG HOTEL

Phon

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PENINSULA

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REPULSE BAY

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LIPSTICK DOWN THE AGES

Centuries of cometic art," "go- ing back beyond Cleopatra, le behind the lipstick Priests were

the earlist perfumers, and women early, took advantage of their pre- parations and paints. For cheeks and lips red lead and the like were used. The Crusades were

of cosmetics, for nights instrumental in increasing the brought back much Eastern lore to their ladies.

The lipstick's evolution to its present atage is a cosmetic triumph. * Liquid zouges were superseded by the use of Inor- ganic pigments, such as the fron oxides. Afterwards, organic, col- ours were struck on colourless, in-- organic bases, chalk, for instanc Now we have the direct. te dyesturs » dissolved in""organic" solvents The necessity for a 801- vent is apparent, ler dyes mostly

dyeing action only when

tise

ma

a girl comes for

to serve mer

quring

stick to sollary?

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