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PARIS FASHIONS
More Half-Season Clothes
Mainbocher makes morning and afternoon clothes in subdued) co- lours, with bright scarves, bowa, or drapery at the neck. He puts jabota and frills of Calais lace at the neck and wrists, and bands of Cald's isce about 3 in, wide are inserted into the skirt and bodice, .." "All the woollen materials are soft.
and supple. Coats At the hips with the basque dit at the back, *a belt clips the waist, down the front are buttons, and there are "four pockets, each with a button- -ed Bap.
Some jackets have little shoul- der capes. other are really jum- pera with front fastenings. The skirts are given fullness by gat- hers or pleats from the waist. Speckled tweeds, striped brown and white woollens, and black and white crepes are among the morning and informal afternoon,. dresses and jackets. The sleeves are long, close fitting, and full, with wrist bands or wide without them. More formal afternoon dresses of black crepe satin and crinkled crepe are slim and sim- ple, with loose or fitting jackets. For the evening bright taffetas dresses make a contrast to black crepe dinner dresses. A black fale dress has two immense bows on both sides of a full flounced skirt. Widely ruched tulle capes slip on like coats, and. the full flounces are fixed on fitted yokes. The skirt of a black and white muslin dress sweeps the ground at the back and sides; the bodice has frilled sleeves and a pointed neckline, Slender crepe dresses are made with cowl draperies at the back. Flowers are worn at the waist; fruit garlands are carried acTOSS the waistline in front. Necklines are outlined by ribbons, which also compose the belt.
Skirts are slit at the hem.
London
Fashions
Mid-Season Hats
It may be taken as a general rule that winter hats with tall crowns have brims, and that brimless toques are quite low, though a feather or a touch of trimming will suggest height. Tall, brimless hats have proved to be too trying for most wearer There is a tendency to drape af ternoon hats in felt and fabric, Some with brims have cone crowns, which are tucked in to give an uneven line higher to wards the back; they have thin feathers or quills set cross-wise in
2 curved line Others have crowns, which are stitched, folded, or draped to give uneven ines and a moderate suggestion of height. The tendency is to keep the outline small and neat.
There are varieties of "pili-boz" toqués, some high at the back and shallow in front, with the crown: bent over slightly to give tricorne effect. There are also toques of mandarin shape finish- ed with a small knob or quili on the top, with stift crinoline- vell. Other small hats are very shallow with the sides of the brim rolled and the front fattened into a slightly squared visor. Another version is made of reversible felt beaver on the outside of the rolled brim and smooth on the inside. The brim ends in points towards either side of the front. Both these look well with a dress with square-cut neckline. Many small toques have matelassé and pad-⠀ ded edges, and some without bring tre made in alternate thick rolls of knitted wool- and. Persian lamb.. These are often oval to line, worn well to the side, and tilted far forward. With the fashionable three-quarter coat of fat fur there are tiny, close-ili- ting fur toques to match.
For afternoon and more formal wear there are large hats of black felt with the brims cut short at the back and turned off the face in front in a wide, uneven #halo, The materials are felts, especially those with an antelope finish, and fabrica which include rolvet Trimmings are small and usually some sort of a feather," "quil, wor lacquered com
tips and algrettes are put on afternoon.
pinched at the knees, slender about the hips, and long when formal.
Chanel's
HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY DECEMBER 7.~ 1934,
Chanel shows many bright dresses and jackets. She blouses the bodies, gives a slight fall- ness to the her of the skirts, set in the long sleeves, and makes soft, wide cape collars. White lingerie trims tailored dresses at the neck and there is usually an inconspicuous belt. Biba, Ecarves, bows decorate the front of a bub- tonech bodice. The long coats and: '- morning jackets have low waist- lines behind; in front they rise a little. Chanel's evening skirts are long and full about the hem; the little Jacket. bodices are as- tened with small jewelled buttons, the necklines are not very low. and little cleeves are usual. For- mal dresses may have short.. full tulle capes. A ngured white mus- lini dress has little diamond but- tons to fasten the bodice; a spott- ed black and white muslin dress has pink roses at the waist.
Ardanse
Ardanse has some lace and chiffon dresses for the afternoon and evening; she uses black crepe satin on both sides. One of her lace and chiffon dress has & cape which hangs füll behind and flat in front. The lace skirts are full, but slit. and fal 1ghtly. Black tulle is another evening dress material and there several severe dinner dresses of crepe georgette. black, red, or blue. The afternoon dresses reach nearly to the ankle, and have long sleeves and high necks. lightened with white; over them are worn long black cloth coats trimmed with astrakhan or fox furs.
are
WHAT SMARTER FOR THE COCK. TAIL HOUR...Than this satin print in navy blue and white The gown is backless and is trimmed in navy satin bow and belt. The buttons are blue rimmed in liver. Worn by Mady Christians, Metro-Goldwyn.
Moyer player.
ICE BLUE SATIN fashions this interesting hostess type gown worn. by Kosalind Russell, Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer player. Heavy silk fringe trims the sleeves and the left side of the skirt. The train and wide pixdie "aro" attractive features.
AFTERNOON FROCKS TO THE FORE
More Elegant In Line And Fabric
Present Indications are that afternoon frocks are going to be inore important now than they have been for a long time. There is a distinct tendency away from the custom observed over the past two or three years to wear street clothes to tea and other afternoon &Cairs."
Indeed, it seems Likely that afternoon costumes now will be more elegant in line and fabric than they have been for several year. It is not meant, that sim....... plicity is to go by the board. Sim- pllcity is always the mode, of
course.
%
What is meant is that people are beginning to dress for afternoon as punctiliously as they have ever Adone for evening. The tendency, noted during the crises, to put on a simple frock or sult for luncheon,
and then wear it until digner time,
There is a tie-on jacket which fastens in the back
This is, thanks to the jacket, the sort of rostume that English wo men like so much, since it easily serves two purposes Worn at an afternoon party, with its tie-on jacket, and trimmed with silver 10x, it forms an elegant ensemble for such an occasion. With the jacket removed, the dress is suf- ficiently decollete, for informal evening wear.
.
KUPT,
Incidentally, in speaking of fox it might; be mentioned that this fur la more popular than Silver fox, in particular, has been worn by some of the smartest wo- men of Paris,
A silver fox is an xcellent fa- vestment for the woman who still finds it necessary to economise, for it may be worn with many diner- ent dresses, and however ample
is disappearing. The smart woman, the costume, the fur gives it the
is tired of this ultra-simplification air of elegance that is demanded
of her clothes ritual, and she shows dennite signs of returning to the pre-war interest “in afternoon ....costumes
The new fashion, demands a¦, great deal of attention to the back of the head, as all the hair is shown. Curls are no longer worn low
the asp but are dressed
line of the hat and head as possible
by the present mode.
· For example, against the back- ground of a simply cut black gown, she places a huge chou of pale Costume Beautiful
rose-coloured organza, which forms And in line with this interest, the front of the gown. This is many houses are again creating worn with a pink bat, necklace and elegant afternoon frocks and en- gloves, and forms à most handsome sembles. There is, for instance, costume Rose and black, as you the Augustabernard costume of know, is a flattering combination dark purple crepe This is by no and one, especially liked by mer means a gown that can be worn. It is expected that this gown, or by avery woman, but when it variations of if will be vom by a is selected by the right type, it is great many women. a most beautiful costume
This costume is typical of the new elegant simplicity. It is ankle-length, with a high neckline The silhouette is long and form Atting, with just a little fullness at the back. It was worn the other day at a smart tex in one of the handsome houses near the Bour du Boulogne
Another, handsome
the Augustabernard the sudar" eel grey;
fabric always fa French "wornBII.
the neck. -- less frock, very gir meet the interesting draped
Black Costumes For the woman who likes greater dignity, Lanvin has created some, handsome black costumes, accom panied by black broadcloth "coats trimmed with silver fox. Here the pink touch, which the leg 30 much, is introduced to how of organo
avour
from
front, which somehow runs folda at the back of the armholes
or chi
discreet
INFORMAL CLOTHES
The fashion for tunics on in- formal occasions illustrates - the tendency to separate- bodice and skire. This division'in' Urie is also
·‘suggested in under-coat frocks, where there is a separate treat- ment of tops and a front basque or told of material simulating a
The more ornate tunics are of lame and are knee-length; some are pouched at the waist and others in a surpliced line are split at each side. Long sleeves and a - "bow "on" the 'shoulder or a draped cowl in front are frequent. Gold lames, båle or deep, are favourite materiais; the skirt can be black velvet or satin; These are for in- formal dinners or the cocktail tour. Other forms of the long comic for afternoon are in cello- phane materials, beaded angora fabrics, ar materials embroidered with paillette motifs.
- There are evening blouses which are really short tunics or jumpera, coming over the velvet or satin skirt in points and made of sil- ver or gold metal materials; metal tafeta in pastel plaid.designs and patterned tissues are the most frequent and are made with short sleeves and fat draped bow affects which are part of the front, cle- verly cut and brought to each alde? Uncrushable velvet in pastel col-' ours and shiny satin are used for short and long" tunics and even- ing blouses, and there are
me- dium-length tunics made of so- called "anthracite." Some lame tunics, buttoned down the back, are for slipping on over evening flocks. The turlic idea is also seen in three-pieces; lame or sat- in tunics are worn with black vel- .. vet sults and dull pale crepe tunics with fine woollens.
The under-coat jumper sult can kok-well even in wool Suits of soft Indian cashmere can be given smartness by a wide leather belt of a contrasting colour, More decorative woollen suits have em- broideries in small fat gold studs on the yoke, cuffs, and pocket: others have contrasting colours, in dull paillettes sparingly used, Jer- sey materials are now woven with tinsel or cellophane thread, which lightens
the surface. Light- weight woollen materials can háve lingerie accessories, bibs, and ruf- fles fixed on with clips. The "bib" front is being made in a variety of ways in silks and organdies.
Decorated sleeves are noticeable: on many frocks; on a 'jersey un- der-coat frock the sleeves and yoke may be of a blistered jersey and full towards the elbów; in an afternoon frock in black tulip silk cash-mere the sleeves were em- broldered in cellophane sequins, and in a black marocain afternoon frock the full sleeves were embroi- dered in opaque white paillettes. The concentration of embroider- les on full sleeves accentuates the slim straight line of the frock.
Mayo's
RINGTONE
New
Smart
AND
SHOPPE
Dressy
AMERICAN HATS
·OLD. HATS REMODELLED "AND - MADE · TO
LOOK LIKE NEW,"
South Arcade.
Gloucester Building.
A GALA.NIGHT
in
Hongkong Hotel
THE ROOF GARDEN
with
YOLA & PAUL
on
SATURDAY
8th
DECEMBER
PER COVER AFTER DINNER ADMISSION
Till 2 a.m.
88.00
$1.00
EARLY RESERVATIONS SUGGESTED
PHONE 80281 1
THE HONGKONG & SHANGHAI HOTELS, LTD.
Winter
Wrap Problem
A Survey Of Many Styles
Furs are very luxurious, but there are fur coats priced to suit every income. At the same time," women require a practical wool- cloth or warm tweed coat. In both cases the new shoulder caper or large shawl-collar of a soft pelt, provide a good deal of extra warmth. A
́ ́A velour model in darkest green that any woman, would appre- clate had slightly bell sleeves, and a shoulder cape trimmed with a border of black seal—the big cuffs were of the same fur pushing up the elbow. "Another coat, in dark
trimmed
brown, had a shawl-collar of nut ria, with a cap to match. B: The Baboulder-capes,
fur, attached to long and three- quarter wraps, are elegant as well as warm. With velvet för town: "wear," the less expensive fura can look very effective. Seal-coney and beige-coney, treated to look like summer ermine, also carefully chosen moleskins, make a becom ing trimming to black velvet or faille,
The capes are often detachable. "This permits of a plesstzig little
wrap to wear Indoors,
The Edwardian costumes seem- ed so Inappropriate to use for any other purpose than that for which they were created. The reception dress was kept for receptions, the suit for mornings and so forth.
THE SEASON'S, SUCCESS Furs, harsh and ugly, were only for the elders. Girls wore scrat chy woollens! The idea that a portion of the afternoon "ensem bie" or evening tollette could be utilised in other ways never en- tered into the dress schemes of last century Imagination Was centred on the single effect, and that certainly was overcrowded- with ideas and decoratio
The beautiful new.cape of dark velvet trimmed with spiral strands
for
›dels"
duvetyn looked young and charm- ing. A spiral cape of real-red seal on a brown camel's hair slimly cut coat also looked well worn. by s red haired girl, who further fol- lowed the red-brown scheme up by a cluster of shaded velvet or- chids.
FURS AND FLOWERS
Flowers, real, or in the best cop- les when worn with fur go well. The Dlossoma give a light touch that... takes us back to more romantic times. The flower vogue is one of the most attractive of the "re- suscitated-fashioris, feminine and fleeting The extra fur-trimmed cape and the substantial winter- coat is, like the big collar, the right place to pin the floral tri- bute
Some of the finely worked capes, entirely composed of fur, are best kept as separate garments. Many of them are three-quarter length and look very well in the inexpen sive furs, such as moleskin, squir rel, and conev, zeke
There seems a wise desire to use only soft skins for the three- quarter cape. The harsher selec- tion are Best Kept for slim, practi cal country coats Now that fur work is so marvellous, with these soft pliable results there is, no need only to imagine that becom ing selection must necessarily be. very costly
The odd shaded foxer look best afternoon or evening ensemble in when used to complete a special
an unusual shade of velvet or lame, but for any practical day- wear odd coloured furs should be avoided.
Reverting to the cape-coals, the smartness of tweed is its tailored It a fur collar alone is should be essentially
"sort of skin uke natural masquash,-loop-
Astrakhan
ard
that tones in with the