Page
HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 1934.
ON THE PARIS FASHION SCENE
New Outbreak Of Brilliant
Finger Nails
Cheery Anger-tips are the fas hion note in Paris for ebilly days. Warm tones of orange and pinks with a yellow cast about them are to replace the deep blue-ish and purple-ish reds which fashionable French women wore last year. Al- though there was an intermedi- ary period when nail varnishes promised to be more natural, they have flared out again in bright and absolutely artificial shades.
Many women feel that brilliant finger-tips are good substitutes, for jewels, and as few women no- wadays own precious Jewels, they rely upon their coloured finger- nails to draw attention to pretty hands.
yar-
Older women, too, find that brightly coloured finger-tips are kind to them and make their hands lock, whiter and younger. Certaily, nails which are nished in very pale shades do emphasise the colour and texture of ageing hands, while darker enamels help to soften and con- ceal these unwelcome signs,
Besides the bright orange, coral; tomato, and pomegranate tones used for the daytime, Paris spon- sors all kinds of naere and mo- ther-of-pearl varnishes for the evening. Many are made exactly to match the dresses, of their wearers, and creators of such aids to feminine beauty are working in co-operation with and mixing colours to accompany the most popular of the models in the foremost dress collections.
dressmakers,
All these macre varnishes have different tones about them-var- led pinks, greens, blues, and yel- lows but all so soft and subtle that they appear to be mere re- flections of the dresses upon the mirrors of shining nails.
Nacre varishes however, are particularly bad for the nails, making them very brittle if used exclusively, and for this reason it la wise to change to a plain and clear varnish from time to time.
COLOUR NAMED BY THE QUEEN
It is announced that the Qilzen and the Duchess of York have acceded to the request made by the Earl of Derby, the President of the British Textiles Exhibition „on behalf of the committee of the ezhibition, to name two of the new calours in which British dress fabrics will be displayed by manufacturers of the exhibition
(the
Testiler Section of the British Industrier Fair) nezt February. The colour to be cho- sen by her Majesty will be named "Jubilee" and that chosen by the Duchess at Tork will be named "Margaret Bose."
When ordinary varnishes are used most authorities advocate leaving white "moons" upon the nails, but they now cover the fin- ger-tips instead of leaving them white. When mother of pearl po- Ilshes are worn, then the entire naul is painted "moon" and all.
*
For those who like novelty in theft nail varnish there are a number of metallic lacquers this season, most of which incline to bronze or gold. One of the most unusual is a mother of pearl var- nish with dakes of gold in it, which is painted on over foundation of vivid red or coral polish, to give it an aspect of fiery warmth.
a
Many striking results are ob- tained by putting different coats of varnish one over the other. In- deed, women who have time to spare mix colours upon their nails as an artist upon his palette, and vle with one another in achieving a "secret" colouring which norie of their friends can imitate unless they are let into the secret of the And that not colour formula. every woman will give away even to her best friend!
•
Nowadays the Anger-nails are a real characteristic by which the women of different nationalities can be recognised. Scots and English women can always be de-
tected in Paris by their choice of nail varnish in the softer and more refined shades. Spanish wo- men are among the most blatant in their use of deep vivid reds, while Parisians at present are ali in favour of the new orange, core al and yellow-red, colours.
The actual use of brilliant var- nish is well understood by most modern, women, for they do not wear it carelessly with any and every colour. They choose it as an accent to a sombre dress, and often finger-nails and lipstick will be the only relleving touches about a black ensemble. Indeed. one's finger-tips must be studied to Harmonise with one's dress as carefully as shoes or jewels.
THE MECHANICS OF
BEAUTY
at
It appears that someone Hollywood has invented what is called a "beauty micrometer"—a sort of mask that fits over the head of the patient and when it has been clamped in position with the ald of "325 adjusting screws," indicates which features need em-. phasising and which toning down in order to achieve ideal beauty for the screen.
"Among other advantages It should dispose of any baseless. legends that film-struck candi- dates are liable to have a screw loose here and there, when 325 of them have been tightened up to
THE LINE OF
GRACE
Becoming Winter
"Modes
MORE BECOMING MILLINERY
HELMET HATS THE FUR-TRIMMED TOQUE -
PIQUANT PEAK EFFECTS
In the earlier part of the season the new hats threatened all man- nor of eccentricities, but hats may now be voted becoming and easter to wear. Vafter the extreme shul- · lowness of crown, hats of the higher order came. Hats at the the head once more without need of elastic. When hard of texture, too square and undenfed, the higher crowni added to age and so made no advance. Then the ex- perts began to pull the high crown about in all directions. The va- Ariety of Homburgs and the Cow- boy shapes have also the benefit of a pull-about brim, as well as their soft felt or velours crowns.
Another interesting note about these styles is that novelties in .Jewelled pins, quaint ornaments and wings may be used. A brooch er clip can hold a dented fold in place.
Some felts have a couple of slits halfway up the crown, where a velvet ribbon or cord can `pass, through and tie in a bow or knot. Such trifles are helpful in the dull winter days, for much black Telt is worn.
W
A
For the country and with the severe tailored suits, felt for the head is
a "chic" choice. Dark grey, green or brown make change, and are often more be- coming than black. Red millinery for the moment has given place to these darker tones.
The helmet hat like the Cossack caps, are best when made of fab- ric soft enough to drape and pull "Into becoming lines. The helmet
hat is square at the top. · Other' toques have pointed crowns or top-knots. Velvet and stamped velvet, fur and furry fabrics are The silhouette of winter 1934-all used for this variety of cap. 1935 is a very beautiful affair. It gives classic charm to the figure.
There are many variations, for women like to change their co- thes and their styles. Dresses that stand away and flare in an almost aggressive way are by no means ruled out.
...
'We "cling" with classic grace in pliable velvets iamės, Batins, and duvetynes, or, we flaunt: in stiff taffeta, gold-sprigged failles, moires, laces-ciré. Silhouettes seem to have borrowed much from the early years of this century. Fashion to-day, being so much freer, can afford to try out all sorts of amusing Ideas from many nges.
11
Our leading dress experts are to be congratulated on the marvell- ous manner in which they provide the wardrobe of winter with B practical foundation. Possibly the return to black by night and by day is a sure sign that even if the models lavish and inclined to formality, every woman can be certain of possessing some wear- able garments ready for all occas- lons."
The Evening Corsage Black velvet is always in fas- The economically minded blot. woman will have a lovely ensem- ble in this fabric, and possibly have a separate corsage for the evening. This is a most practical plan for town uses,
The formal sort of velvet cost- ume will have a alim, tight cut right to the ankles, with the slit at the Hem. A simple blouse-like bodice is good for the afternoon with possibly a touch of saver lamé or a "colour in the neck-une and cuffs that can be repeated in the hat. Over this is worn a long, or three-quarter, coat, with a cape trimmed with fur which be suit- able for the afternoon or evening. The dinner corsage can be cut low and draped with long-fitting or elbow sleeves, if it is to be worn under the wrap.
Ho Turn Ari
"Suits pressed and returned in twenty-four hours." says an adver- tisement. When a suit had been
a thousandth of an inch or so that turned only the most economical suspicion should vanish for ever.. would have it returned.
Swathed turban effects are good for velvet and fur. Some of these
NET JUMPERS
י ין
Great Scope For
·Originality
The latest net "jumpers worked with a darning stitch embroidery are intriguing, many women at the moment. The darning is worked in two different kinds of wool in any chosen colour scheme. The design is usually in the conven- tional flower pattern form, and the flowers can either be raised in Wool against a background of cream net, or the ground can be filed in with a darning stitch.
The idea gives great scope for originality in working, but it is
are classic and follow the line of the head. Veils play a decora- tive part, either worn in the Yashmak way or providing a stiff fly-away border to break the line.
The most flattering effect is given b ̧ a rolled brim of velvet. A Riviera model white felt has appeared; it is a pliable draped felt with a fairly high crown, but its feature is a softly rolled, un- even brim of black velvet. It is "chie" and yet an easy-to-wear. shape.. The pill-box turban is chiefly adopted as a fashionable favourite on account of Princess Marina's preference for its simple lines. This shape should only be attempted by young people with fairly regular features. Dented crowns and rolling brims Are kinder to the average face.
The newer cult of eccentric smartness enables women passes- sed of a great dress consciousness to adopt the hard and even un- becoming styles and to "carry
them off." Sometimes their suc- cess lies in the real novelty, and 'such styles have a very short sea- son. When a woman realises she is the exception she may be able to gain distinction in dress by bringing eccentricity to a fine art.
The American woman is best at carrying off odd movements and novelties in the dress and hat world. She studies the subject seriously and will alter her per- sonality to suit a fashion of short duration.
The new peaked narrow bats
are
an example of "difficult" shapes. English women as a rule require some becoming note in a style that they make their own, even for a brief season and a peak is a hard hat-point to look well int
easier to start with one of the traced designs, which are sold in net already cut in a short-sleeved and waisted jumper pattern.
In these designs the flowers- are embroidered with two threads of wool in straple darning stitch, the stems in a satin stitch, and the colours used alternately in vertical darning about 2in apart over the net surface, uncovered by the flower embroidery.dat
The waist and sleeves are fin ished with a ribbing of pearl and plain knitting. In the new wool colourings these Jumpers are most attractive, and there is a wide choice of delicate tints which can be used together harmoniously The result is particularly effec- tive when the soft silkiness of Angora wool is introduced, either as a finish to the flower petals or in the whole of the flower design
Mary's
HONG KONG HOPPE
Smart and Dressy HATS
for All Occasions.
OLD HATS REMODELLED
AND
MADE TO LOOK LIKE NEW.
South Arcade.
RIGAUL
Gloucester Building.
LES FLEURS
มิ
de RiCAUD
the delicate flagrance of your favorite flower
ROSE - JASMINE SWEET PEA LILAC CARNATION MANA JA OIN TH, 130.
AGENTS VICENTE ATIENZA & C', N°54, NATHAN ROAD, KOWLOON-TEL 57155
WHAT PARIS IS WEARING-
Latest
H
26
Off Blacks
2+
New Interest to the caped after- noon outline is 'brought by using sheer lainages instead of those that have a spongy elastic quality. The latest fabric is fiat, in a light- weight close-mesh gauze weave" which is hard to distinguish from Crepe de Chine in the distance, in black, encre de Chine, and a new oatmeal beige."
►
Encre de Chine, like the new dark" green is ever so slightly re- moved from black for a frock worn with a new type of bolero jacket caught to the figure at the waist in front by long flat looped ends that cross over Achu-wise and drop almost to the knees.
This item is in poult de sole to tone with a stand-up collar of the fabric veering away from the nape.
Capelets look perfect moulded to the shoulders in matching fabrics. Most of them dip to the waist, but the rolling tendency is com- pletely erased through the intro- duction of side slits. Since frocks have long sleeves, you can imagine the effect. A band of shaved laoib is set to hang beneath the base in
PRINCESS MARINA GREEN
Green, the colour which in one shade or another is having such a marked vogue this autumn, has now been given further impetus. To mark the occasion of her marriage, Princess Marina has consented to give her name to a new and very lovely tone of green.
“Marina · Green!" - the coluu? which the Princess has selected to bestow,ker name upon, has more than a hint of blue in it, and it full of light and lustre. It inter- prets the brightness and vivacity with which we already associate the Princess,
It is certain that many of the wedding guests will defy super-
•stition, and by choosing this shade for their ensembles pay a pretty compliment to the bride
the nature of a wide flat tuck. This motif in encre de Chine shaved lamb to tone appears to hang separately being attached to. albaing
Dresses that add zest to these new capes are made with slim skirts that are slit up at either side, Trimmings become part of flatter surfaced schemes, and show of admirably in series of piped lines that resemble goffering on bodices, sleeves, and, quite tres quently, at the base of hem-lines. Quilted designs come in for an other specialised form of sartorial
labour on satin afternoon fracks, and are cleverly disposed to point beneath waists in front and bring a new interest to shoulder lines. Effects are crushed, but worked in one with the material, and "not Incrusted. A difficult problem is: thus presented to the amateur for straight and otherwise unbroken skirt lines!
Bhirring is another surface mould executed to form rounded flat yoke depths in both lainage and satin afternoon frocks.
LONDON
FASHIONS
Twe Evening Styles:
There are now two contrasting outlines in the evening-the robe de style and the streamline; a well-dressed woman should have gowns in both styles. The former appears in taffetas, fallle, plain moirés, and moirés, plain or shot, or with a smal" pattern of metal nowers, and for débutantes in net or tulle, or fine metal lace over satin or tissue. The neckline may "he off, the shoulder or deep and. square; and for wearing at dinner the back is generally high, and the
be of brilliant parchment-colour- front square. Such a dress can
ed satin with the full skirt ga- thered on the tight-fitting bodice at the waistline: the square-cut neck is finished with a large celo- phane dahila. A dinner gown of black faille has a widely flared skirt, and the close-fitting bodice an upstanding ruile and small,
puff sleeves.
The streamline, on the other · hand, is achieved in dresses cut on princess lines with low backs and skirt fullness introduced at a Une below the knees; or a perfectly plain skirt closely follows the line of the figure and is slashed at the knee; in both there are jong pointed or square trains. The
materials are chiton velvets, un- crushable velveta; tree bark crepes woven with metal threads, metal lames, « or satin trimmed with rhinestone or crystal beads,
Evening wraps · following the dresses. For the robes de style there are full-length wraps of cir- cular cut and closely fitting bod- Icea; they have wide sleeves and large draped collars. In others the bodices are tightly fitting and the skirts full and gathered at the waislinea"
Straighter wraps of, velvet are slit at the sides so that they may be worn over either kind of dress.. Woollen fabrics, such as broad-" cloth and duvetyn, are new for full-length evening coats, and the large tox collars are warm. Waist- length wraps of velvet and fur, cut in the new dolman effect, look well with picture frocks.
Prophecy And A Certainty
A fashion writer says that wo- men's hats will be more "freskish", this summer than last. Well, that only goes to prove that nothing's