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DESIGNERS' NON-STOP FASHION PROGRAMME
Dazzling Dress Displays
There is not a single month in the year when no new mode is launched nowadays. Apart from the requirements of sports and games, there is the, incessant.de- mand for cruising, travel, and wet-weather clothes. For every occasion in life the modern wo- man must have the right clothes, wear them well, and also obtain the correct accessories to go with the selection. There must be no slacking of effects on the part of designer or wearer.
Some women declare the models shown at dress displays are too costly and too "woderful to be helpful. This Idea will meet with disagreement in some quarters when fashion is "staged" a little license should be permitted, and it is just the picturesque exag- gerations and dramatic effects
that help us to understand the changes in fashion that introduce. the real novelties of a season.
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Dazzling, almost daring, vogues launched at the auturan, shows but practical people can get real help in deciding on their outfits.
The average woman, young or old, will want for daytime the country suit and the London "en- semble." Both can be very smart and yet entirely serviceable.
BECOMING COLOURS
. Dark colours are correct. It is a pleasing note, the use of these curious, dull nineteenth-century shades. For street wear especial- ly there is something very distinc- Live about black and tones of almost similar darkness, though the deep plum, claret and sherry shades are as practical and often more becoming to English girls than a dead-black-they, tone in admirably with a background of softly-shaded fox and other furs of fashion.
For a smart outfit of which one would not easily tire' one of the new light-weighted Angora cloths in a dark prune shade, trimmed with bands of black broadtail and touches of black satin, can be re- commended,
An ensemble fashioned on these lines can be very effective. The fitted skirt and cut-away semi- tunic blouse of prune wool fabric. looks well with a deep waistband,. cus and tiny collar of black satin. Over this should be a long, slim coat of the cloth lined with black broadtan. A small muff of the same fur is sometimes carried this
season. The hat of semi- Tyrolean order can be in black felt with a fanciful black wing.
This represents a pleasant and practical outft that could be Worn with black accessories in the way of shoes, gloves and pochette.
For country house and various week-ned visit the claims of dark- est green jersey with one of the new wide belts of dark brown lea- ther and handbags, shoes.. and gloves of leaher cannot be over- looked. The skirt could be tight- ly buttoned in front with small buttons of leather, and the shirt In Angora of a lighter green, the three-quarter belted coat being cut in loose tunic form, with a beret of the fabric.
ADAPTABLE OUTFITS
Both these could be worn for town, country or travel. Lingerie collar and jabot "sets" could"add a pleasing variation, with the wearer happy in feeling that the ensemble" in itself was a standby.
sure
Both practical selections for this autumn have been in plain fabrics, for the tweeds and pat- terned variety are more "dating," and are best where a more sport- country effect is required. Tweeds are so smart this year that none of us can afford to pass them over, but if our wardrobe has to be mited it is wisdom to choose the always becoming - colours and everuseful stuffs.
Navy blue is not so much an autumn colour as the more dead- leaf shades. It is, of course, never- out of the scheme, but is best for spring wear in a general way, but It must be remembered that navy is always required for cruising.
Apart from the new "dead" col- ours, black, after all, must be rec- koned with was the most "chic"" and useful choice for town wear." Black is ever an admirable foun- dation for furs, and the bright "splashes" of colour that cheer the winter outfit.
Frenchwomen
never forsake black, especially for the street. The new way of violent bright colour-touches with black is help-.. -ful. Many black hats, for instan- ce, shaw scarlet wings or ribbons.
FANS
New fashions in fans have been many lately, the latest Being an excellent imitation of the old- fashioned ostrich variety. ANS West-End display these imitations looked decidedly better than one" or two genuine ostrich fans which were exhibited along with them. The luxurious novelties, are made from a kind of featered alik- somethink like the material that covers -high-grade teddy-bears. The fan variety is longer, stiffer, and polished so that it reflects the Ught. Blue was the most fa voured colour, as the fans were affected by the prevailing shade In evening gowns, but attractive results had been attained in pl mauve, and on white. One of
HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 9, 1934.
COLOURS IN TWEEDS
and
Tweeds are now full of co.our, whether they are ordinary heath- er mixtures or checks plaids. The presence of two or even three colours gives a shot effect' to tweeds of lighter weight: for suits. Solld bright woollens are softened by a halry finish. Costs of three-quarter or seven- eighth length in small checks or plaids have alim straight skirts of the material, and tailored sults have a plaid skirt and a plain short jacket, or the reverse. A fine plaid with red and blue lines is worn with a plain bine skirt; the accessories are bine, with a large red and blue plaid, ail scarf. Bright colorus in the tweed can be accentuated in the sult is worn sweater, scarf, and hat. A green
with an
orange scarf and a small hat. with orange feather. A heavy neut- ral-coloured tweed sult with red and green slub threads is worn with a red blouse and a green scart.
Solt, Felts
With tweeds the hat is often 'a soft felt with a fairly narrow brim turned up at the side and back and a high draped crown. Smail woollen hats are generally trimmed with small bright quills or feathers, There are velours felts of contrasting colours. A black tweed tailored suit is worn- with black gloves and accessories and a chamois coloured velours felt hat and scar!. A red and blue plaid wool dress is worn with three-quarter length coat of blue velveteen and red velours hat trimmed with a dark blue
quili.
N
WILL THE WASP PARIS FASHIONS WAIST RETURN?
"
. Will the
wasp waist return? "Autumn fashions do not go thus far, but walsts must definitely be studled it the new frocks and coats are to be adopted.
Coats for cooler days are the main point of interest at the moment, and here agures are of paramount importance. Some- how or other the natural whist- Une is indicated in all the new desigrs. It may be merely sug- gested in the princesse line of
one.
"On another a wide beit (accen- tuated by 13 novel fastening), definitely announces that Nature intended the wearer to measure several inches less where It marks the wast" than over her hips.
STRAIGHTER LINE
The swagger coat line has d's- appeared. True, there is a mild movement of this style in the "smock" coat hanging loosely from the neck and given wide lodse, sleeves, but such are for the few. The average woman. will like the straighter line and content herself with originality. at her waist and neck.
"At the latter point. fancy can run riot. Big. hows of fur finish smart coats of woollen and soft- surfaced aloths Air-plane" wings of cloth or fur are novel The "wings" stick out behind each ear or cross at uneven lengths at the centre back.
"Rabbit-ears of fur finish tie- at-will scart collars and similar patches of furdecorate pockets on the same coats.
on
Sometimes a model seems to have broken away from the natural waist-line rule, but closer inspection, the slight high- waisted effect proves but the re- sult of a fur collar brought down at the back to a few inches above the waist.
exag-
Dolman-shaped backs, Capes of
Large checks in beige and rich browns are for tailored top-coats. Velveteen and corduroys, plain or checked, are for street dresses and suits. Tunic suits of black velvet are worn with sliver fox furs worked to give a cape effect." and with black velvet Francols Villon hats or berets. three-quarter OT hip length, made of rough heavy tweed mix- tures and tucked to set close on the shoulders, are worn plain wool frocks which take up one of the darker colours of the tweed. The hat and accessories match the dress.
over
Grey is common for sports suits, with a sweater or over- blouse of a brilliant colour. Black blouses and sweaters are worn with coloured sports suits of rough tweed; the black hats have quill mounts of the same bright colour. As aweaters scarves, and hats show so much colour, gloves, handbags, and shoes may be inconspicuous. Brown or black gloves harmonize with dark clothes, and belge gloves with lighter woollens.
With tweed costumes here are sets of scarf and gloves of velve- teen or handknitting with wide gauntlet cuts,
gerated reveza. Cossack-skirted coats with a bell-shaped flare at" the hem. cuffs that reach as far ∙18 and above the elbow, are features of the more exaggerated models. Sler B. too xoay be wide and full at the top, or the exact opposite, su individual taste can have its fling there.
But watch-the-waist" is wor man's slogan of the moment, if she is to accept the ruling of dress experts with equanimity this autumn,
Accessories
Most, hats are now black, but their shapes are numerous. Black antelope is moulded into a pill- box form. rising behind or in the middle and trimmed across the back with a short black qui thrust through a pat of snow- white marabout.
The high crown of Tirolean felt tapers as it rises, to be dented and trimmed with a supple feather at the back. The low crown of a small hat cut to a point in front is trimmed with a high frill of the material, which may be satin or antelope, or velvet; above the frill rises a short, soft, bright feather. Many low-crowned hats with roll- ed brims are based on the little tricorne; they are worn towards one side and often with short, crisp veils, and the trimming is a jewel or a quill. The Highlan- der's bonnet is worn with two narrow Petersham ribbon ends be- hind. The mandarin's hat, made of felt, may be trimmed with a cord and tassels. Berets come to a peak over the brow and fit at the back like mortar boards. Hats ed; a chignon of curls makes a depend on the way hair is dress-
kind of cushion for a hat. Col- our in a hat usually matches the costume a brown hat goes with brown clothes; or when clothes are trimmed with coloured but- tons or silver braid, the feather or Jewel in the hat corresponds..
Black Dresses and Wraps Black dresses and wraps with bright trimmings or jewels are worn with light beige stockings and black shoes cut high over the the instep and with low heels. The dresses are draped or trimmed high to the throat. A black crepe dress has a small toby frill of sil-. ver lame which ends under the ears, and the belt has a silver front and a black. Blver or steel buttons and braiding frequently trim black dresses. Many bodices button half way down the back. Sleeves are long, closely fitting, and buttoned from the wrists to elbows. All afternoon skirts are slim and not longer than the ankles. Morning skirts are short and tight. Close-fitting capes of black broadtall are worn with black dresses and coats, but se parately, Lang, slender woollen capes, also to be worn over black dresses, may be trimmed with broadtail or ermine.
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For the morning there are tweed Costumes with woollen sweaters. A knitted wool knot or a loose necktie knotted to a little bow and ends shows above the jacket. There are as many soft and light- coloured homespuns as black and brown smooth cothe. A tweed coat and skirt or dress may have an overcoat or cape to match. Jerkin and waistcoat blouses have either long or short sleeves To have a smooth, wide, seamless line at the shoulders with sleeves set
at a low line is the fashion.
Knitted and crochet accessories. for the morning are many. The short knitted or crochet scarf, in bright colours and strongly figur- ed is worn tucked into the jacket or looped under the throat. Kritt- ed gloves with gauntlets can EXIT THE PANCAKE HAT. tartan blouse there are fartan match a blouse, as when with a
Having dictated fashions in shallow hats for many months, Paris is now considering a much deeper pattern, the first models having been shown at a Bruton Street salon. This sudden resic- tion proved rather alaning. Woman wearing the bafrilled-pan- cakes produced by modern mill- iners sat in amazed. rows watch-" ing tall crown after tall crown sall past. If anything, the latest ides seemed more impossible than the saucer modes, and the height of the crowns some of which Cattained nearly 12 Inches may
the fans was fitted with con- trivance which saved the owner's wrist as a light pressure red It from side to side,
be modified in the near future. "The new shapes kád one pleasant eature, however, reasonably wide brim shading the eyes,
gloves and necktie, Bilk and wool. low-heeled shoes in the morning. woven stockings are worn with Kuliting and crochet belts go with woollen sweaters. warmly lined white and grey Bome
knitted Angora muns, with swea- ters of the same wool, can be worn with tweeds, Mittens have been shown; they go over kid or cham- ols gloves and have wide gaunt- lets or tight elbow cuffs..
How Trus!
The Boss: "You were not in the store yesterday. John, where were
cemetery.
Boss: Anybody dead?" John Yes, all of then."
Mayo's
HONG KONG
HOPPE
OLD HATS REMODELLED
AND MADE TO LOOK
LIKE NEW.
South Arcade.
Gloucester Building.
Ladies! Only at
Chellaram's
Can
you get ALBEN
REGISTERED TRADE MARK. ALBENE is an entirely new textile with qualities. that have made it the rage. of Europe's freas designing Salons. It is outstanding for applet. eas.
The Feel, the Dall Effect, the Pare unvarying Whiteness, the Delicacy of the Colour Tones in the shaded fabric, the unstainability and uncrashable- ness of ALBENE are amazing, and are sure to provoke imitations.
See ALBENE now, and see that the Registered Name is on the Selvedge... put there for your protection.
COME TO CHELLARAM TO SEE
ALBENE
THE NEW SOFT MATERIAL
FROM TISSAGE DE VIZILLE - SOLE AGENT: L. BONDON & CO.
ALL in
HONGKONG, HOTEL
1
ROOF GARDEN
in attend. ance on these occasions will: receive a King's
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production,
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MONDAYS
AND
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Individual charge $1.50
including Tea as usual.
COMMENCING
MONDAY, 12th NOVEMBER.
THE HONGKONG & SHANGHAI HOTELS, LTD.