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INFLUENCES FROM THE EAST
-
Chinese and Japanese fluence on dress is now apparent. If is most to be remarked in the clothes of Molyneux, Mainbocher. Schiaparelli and Worth..
In a long tunic of figured black and white, the Chinese cut of and white," the beltless waist," the straight, slim line from waist, to knees, and the wide sleeves fall- ing from seamless shoulders are entirely eastern. Worth has a short spotted summer skirt of cotton with" which he puts a creamy woollen blouse cut on kimono lines with long, wide sleeves: into the woollen sleeves are woven two wide bands...one of bright colous to match the skirt, and the other of grey; round the walst is 3 narrow Japanese sash:" the hat is a Again pointed Chinese straw. there are mandarin.. evening coats of flowered silk, fastening high to the neck, 1 need be. Molyneux gives a Japanese cut. to his wide arm and shoulder bands, and he also makes the This tunic may straight tufile. be made with a slim line reach- ing well below the knees, fuller In front than behind, and with a slight rise at the waistbelt; or the line may be shorter, in front with a dip behind. Also there is the full, short tanle which
called is sometimes peplum, and is of lame for the evening. figured crepe or satin for the afternoon
a
soft.
Printed Coats Loose-fitting printed coats of three-quarter length, with wide sleeves and scarf. tles, and in fashion. With a pláin summer.
there woollen skirt
may
cut Agured blouse
waistcoat
figured Coat
be
Ag 8
be
and front, which can
worn with other pisin skirts of any colour included in the materials printed design; the
are often cotton pique, silk crepe, taffetas, and alpaca Martial et Armand have made several.
Light woollen costumes, plain and figured, have been made for Easter. A plain woollen coat and skirt go with an overcoat of patterned tweed, either checks. broken plaids, or stripes. An -avercoat may be close fitting or loose: Chanel has a coat which fits in the back and falls straight n front. Figured crepes and silks, handknitted jumpers with front fastenings, and washing pique waistcoats with short sleeves are among the" blouse fashiona
made
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Maggy Rouf has three-material.' suf for town. The skirt is of a light black sum- mer woollen; the short jacket is of black taffetas with shiny satin spots; and the blouse has a full jabot front of fine white organ- die worked into openwork pat- terns. A hat is a shiny black straw trimmed with a sharp black qutil. Loose white pique coats. will appear in the summer with black or navy-blue, skirts and hats.
Tulle, net, lace, organdle, and chiffon dresses are used for the
INEXPONENE violines that WLD FELL ne smart this time next year.
eunice
English Designar,Peninsula Aronder
Rivelle
evening, whether black or white
or figured with, checks, stripes, or .. coloured plaids. The skirts are full about and from the knees. Chanel has a black silk lace dress which has a bodice with a trans parent back and a long, fuil train.. of plain" tulle edged with lace. A white organdle dress has full loose-filled sleeves and frills, ..though larger, trim the skirt.
Cire chiffon, black, white, or of a pale colour, is also used for evening dresses, which may have stlf sashes of ribbon tied to a bow with long ends. Plain cire ribbon is for belts and sashes on figured crepe and chiffon dresses. Marcel Rochas makes... evening dresses of crisp lace with hip- length capes and big hats. One is of pale apple-green face; rhinestones go with it. A black spotted net dress, with full,, rip- pling back draperies ending in a.. long train, and the front of the skirt flat and slim, goes under a black satin coat with a bird tall back and very full sleeves.
The Dressmakers have been busy with taffetas this spring. At one time it was a material that some loved and others hated. At the moment it is used" by all, and by all is appreciated.
The little taffetas blouse, with a bow almost as big as itself, is made of check or tartan to go with plain tallormades, and the hat of straw is usually trimmed to match. Taffetas gloves or bag, -not both-may be added.
Then there is the taffetas..en-
HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, MAY 4, 1934.
FASHION NOTES
Lace Blouses
Special Alr Mall Service
London, April 17.
During the winter lace blowes häd an indoor vogue for after- noon and semi-evening wear. Now they will appear outdoors with day-time suits. New models are in rather thick thread lace, made on more or less "dressy" lines, with high-to-the-throat collars, and cascading jabots of the ma- terial The sleeves have little frills to show below the cost cuffs.
יי
A blouse of honey-colour lace looks well with an earth-brown- wool crepe. suit; a delicate pale pink, la good with navy-blue," and
a deep cream with grey. If you desire to be more colourful, there are charming lace blouses in tur- quoise blue, coral, green and other definite shades.
A Little Late
The blue best liked for suits" at present is called by some aut- horities love-bird blue. "Does that make any picture for you? Styles are, on the whole, more 'masculine than they were last year, and the dress-maker's tallormade is not liked for tweedy materials even at their "thinnest,
Somewhere. I read that a-fea- re of, coat-and-skirt fashions this year is a large chromlum buckle of plain design tised to fasten tweed belts This is not new: my tailor gave me one on a spring coat a year ago, and my experience is all against it. The tongue of the buckle soon en- larged the button-holed slot
semble of dress and either jacket through which it was thrust. PARIS FASHIONS.
or cape for the afternoon. This is at its best in black, navy blue, or brown...
a princess dress in There is
with
full - brown,
pleated skirt from, slim hips, with a little jacket made with springy basques and open front, to show a plisse belge jabot. With it goes
D
E.
brown hat; rather like a tricorne, which is worn as a bonnet, well down on the head and away from the brow. Beige stockings, brown suede shoes and brown suede bag are" the right accessories.
17
Turquoises are the usual jewels with brown and beige.
A
loose-atting, three-quarter length taffetas coat is a useful friend för "summer this year. It plain, it goes with many dresses. and is specially advised for wear- ing with figured crepe
and big hats.
dresses
For Summer Evening In black, a loose taffetas coat. looks charming over & white
dress, over grey, or over figured black and white. A red tametas coat of just the shade of that vin rose which is peculiar to France goes with plain dark or light taffetas, and may be quilt- ed about the hem, cuirs and pòc- kets. Brown taffetas is charming with light-coloured figured crepes with a black background.
Most of the taffetas, coats are made without collars and with a scarf-tle fixed to the neckline. Some have full, ruched collars which can be adjusted high or low on the shoulders. A' widely tartaned black and white, brown and white, blue, and white taffetas may be used for these coats In place of the plain taffetas, but they are "not as useful.
INTERESTING VARIATIONS
Interesting variations on the hiplength cape theme are Lan- vin's satin affairs with fat fronts and full circular bäcks.
Chanel's black "Spanish lace wrap-around frocks. trimmed with white Valenciennes or Venetian rules, are, the most extreme symptoms of the lace fever.
Alix Barton's sports buttons and Anny Blatt's silver bolts borrow their chic from pantry and tool chest.
NEW
Bangkok Straws
and Summer Frocks.
DRESSES MADE TO ORDER GOOD-FIT QUARANTEED
No. 8, GloucesterA rcade,
The effect of the buckle, it is true, is smart, so you may consider that worth frequent repairs of the poor button-bole done carefully, from the "back.
Stuffs And StylesTM
Fashions for For Summer Dresses
the country are distinct from those of the town. With frivolously coloured suits It is naturally impossible to wear
A blouse makes a coat and skirt right for one or the other. Man- any but one-colour blouses, and
many that
ufacturers have provided a strictly non-committal eplour. With the suits of one varieties of silk, cotton, linen, and wool for use within certain con- vivid colour, as royal-blue or Trish green, it is also just as well to ventions; when shiny satin makes let the blouse be as inconspicuous as possible." II, on the contrary, the coat and skirt aré quiet, it is allowable-indeed, correct-to ally them with silk blouses in gay shades such as used to be liked Tog bedroom wall-papers.
These wäll-paper designs are
the blouse the belt should. match or, be of something with a dull surface, such as suede.
worn
A blouse should be a sharp con- a coat and skirt or a trust to match. Long sleeves are as much as short sleeves. Necklines are draped when hot cut to a neat square. The hood pressed fiat may be slung from a collar .band to hang down the
The Flower-Trimmed back, a cowl, lightly draped, may
Leghorn
Field flowers or fruit-cherries are first favourites-massed in clustere trim some of the pictures- que Leghorn shapes. These trim- mings are usually posed on the crown at the centre front to aid and abet a dip in the brim.
Contrasting "coloured roses or ribben. manipulated in an identi cal manner cun look equally charming next black crinoline with norrow band of ribbon serving, as it were to hold the motif in position and terminating in a flat tailored bow at the back.
#
There are also hats with wide brims that have crowns no deeper "than "The jaunty" little " sailor," and how they will maintain a correct angle on the head in an unexpected pust of wind remains to be seen i
also shown for summer dresses.
• A printed linen is exactly the ma- terial with which we would have covered our chairs a few years #gơi There are lovely fyrian silks for Jumpers, blouses, dresses, and dressing-gowns that I should love to be able to hang on walls, and cottons for, children's wear cupled from late Victorian hang- ings. Ivory lawns with delicious small flowers in blue and yellow, green and rose, are being made inta underwear that wash.de beautifully.
Uncrushable voiles are in de- signs like tapestry, and there 18 an interesting new cotton taffeta available plain in charming ..pastel
colours," and print
ed in modernist cube, spot. check, and floral effects: Wool and real silk fabrics of the hand printed variety are pattern ed in dignified designs that will answer for day and evening wear alike.
Back To Front
fall from the throat; a fichu may be folded across the chest and caught to a knot or bow in front, a scari can be tied to a bow and ends
The on the left shoulder. Jumper blouse and the tunic have simple fronts which are easy fitt- ing and Chinese in cut. Revers An pairs or single, soft or crisp, trim blouse and dress bodice; they hang loose or are stiffened to sharp lines.
Triangles are the fashion. A collar, a neckline, a shoulder, the hips, the front or back of the waistline, may be, in one way or another," marked by, a triangle," The back of the neckline is open- ed to a small triangle; or the col- lar is cut to the shape of one. Epaulettes are triangular, cuffs of white pipue are triangles; stit- inser- ching, braiding, buttons, tlons of open-work trimmings may be shaped to a triangle.
Skirts are slim but not skimpy. In the tailored skirt the fullness is pressed out of sight as much as possible; pleats are deeply and firmly inset; "godets are 1- obtrusively inserted. Soft mater- ials for little summer dresses are "fashioned to a greater fullness; deep inset pleats open to fan-like width; flounces, godets, accordion pleating, come into the wide pro- gramme of skirt styles.
Coats are loose. Atting or "close fitting, long or short, plain or much decorated with fat surface trimmings. The capecoat and jacket are alternatives to the straight sack, three-quarter, and short. The long cont. when. formal, has a fitting back and an easy fitting front. When inade for travelling it may be loose with a 'belt or strictly an overcoat cut to masculine lines.
FINGER TIPS
Nails Should Be
Filed
Rosy, perfectly--groomed-finger nalla, dancing across plano keys, pounding a typewriter, pouring tea-how important they are to a woman's charmi
-One hour, once a week, and a few minutes daily thereafter, will keep hands looking as they should.-- So no procrastinating! Get your.. tools and begin.
Remove every trace of old pollsh, file the malls, leaving no rough edges. Incidentally, point- ed anapes make short fingers seem longer, more tapering. Soak one hand in warm, soapy water for three or four minutes..
Put cuticle oil or a rich creain around the base of each nall and. with an orange stick wrapped in cotton, push back the cuticle. Soak the other hand and treat it in like manner. When you have finished, the little hali moons should be prominently dis- played. Now you're ready for polish.
Use natural, pink or vivid red polish depending on your taste. Most girls Uke neutral polish for daytime and a brightër shade for evening. But get it on smoothy and don't let it touch the half- moons or the white tins. If an occasional drop spills over on the cuticle, wipe it off immediately.
Every dress has a cape, coat, bolero, or jacket to go with it. The seamless shoulder line with wide sleeves is a style' which lenda Itself to soft summer materials. Texture is of more importance I am glad that women are be than colour. Even a hard colour ginning to rebel against the can be becoming if the texture is Cottons
and lineps have evening dresses that cover us up soft and of the right dimness. greatly changed for the to the neck, hiding the chest that. There is a special dusty pink wool better. The cotton. yarns. for in most women is pretty, and and silk crepe. Yellows, blues, hand-knitted dresses and blouses atlowing a large expanse of back
greens, rede, depend for their by Annyblatt have all the soft-. that in most women is decidedly charm on the weaving of yarns ness of wool and allk, In natural unbeautiful especially if they The use of rabbits hair with white, pale green, brown, and are of the elegantly lean, kind wool, of artificial silk with real turquoise-blue, such
cotton and their shoulder-blades stand silk, and of wool and blouses and dresses are correct out well under a covering of no-silk has much improved the for the town a well as the thing but skin.
texture and colour of materials country.
FASHION UP TO NEW ACCESSORIES
DATE
Gold And Silver
Gold and silver trimmings seem to be more popular than ever this spring for day-time frocks. No garment is too practical or too matter-of-fact to dispense with a touch of these two precious met tals if it be no more than a gold or silver button or two. Many. semi-sporting materials-woollens and wool mixtures—have a dis- creet thread of metal introduced into the weave.
For other and more dressy occasions, but still daytime ase; designers are trimming woollen afternoon frocks with narrow bands of gold at the neckline and touches of the same materiai at the wrists. I saw one praticu- larly attractive model from Ĥ well-known house which carried out this idea with a great deal of charm. The dress was ma- donna blue wool, and the three gold neck bands were arranged so as to form a kind of: shoulder yoke that was rounded in front and that descended in a cowl- like drapery in the back.
"Popular Blouses
The use of lame for little day- the blouses that will meet al- most
any occasion, is also very popular this year. Worn under a sult coat they are discretion itself should you wish to dosa few com- missions in town before going on· to bridge, and once the coat is off you have a little garment that holds its own in a roomful of traditional afternoon frocks.
I notice, too, that twisted lamé is being used quite successfully by many miners to brighten dark straw hats. A certain "halo" model I saw recently was carried out in a fine black straw, the turned-up front, brim being softened by a little roll of twisted gold lame that cut the hair line in front and passed through the
New accessories for sports and tailored suits are printed striped net scarfs; they are becoming and different.
It is smart to dye, clvet cat pale blue and thus beat the leopard, which can't change its spots. Specially attractive ef- fects are achieved with an end- of-the-day... bolero accompanying a blue crepe frock.
Humble, daisles' are fashion's favourite nowers. Mainbocher:
of sponsors quimpes and hats millinery daisles. He also likes daisy-embroidered ribbon belts tied with a bow both front and back.
"brim to us in a tiny bow at the
base of the crown at the back.
And don't forget that gold and silver jewellery is all that is sought after at the moment.. For morning wear nothing is smarter than a pair of clip-on earrings carried out in both materials, the goldforming the centre and the silver the outer edges of the lobe clips. Wide sliver and gilt sporta bracelets help the girl with, thin arms to wear her short-sleeved jumpers and, blouses gracefully.
P.H.
LADIES!
HAVE
your Hair Waved by hand by
- our Expert
Barbers.
Excellent Results. Moderate Prices.
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48, NATHAN ROAD.
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Manager:- AH LIU.
Mang's MEN'S HATS
TOPPE
Cleaned, Dyed
and... Remodelled
New Manila Hats for Ladies in all colours
Gloucester Arcade.
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PARIS.
"UN AIR EMBAUME Flacon de Luxe Grand Model
A Hygienic and Refreshing Perfume in great favour on all Overses Markets.
OBTAINABLE FROM—....,,
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THE PHARMACY.
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ZONE ON & CO.
THE SON CO.
SMCERE CO.
AGENTS:
VICENTE ATIENZA & CO.
No."64, NATHAN ROAD, KOWLOON.
TEL. 57155.
FAST COLOURED COTTONS
Shirtings, Poplins, Linettes, Stripes, etc
Dresses
Curtains
Sunshades
Decorations
for
Indanthren I
·Cushion Covers
Shirts & Pyjamas
Children's Clothing
Uniforms for Schools
Professional Clothing
Tennis Court Screens
Indanthren I
Fast to washing, sunlight, wear and weather.
TACK SHING CO.,
Queen's Road, Hongkong. (ons block before Central Theatre)