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PARIS FASHION NOTES.
| THE SMARTEST EVENING GOWNS. WHITE AND MAUVE LEAD THE THE WAY.
(FROM OUR SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT, ISABEL RAMSAY.]
PARIS, April 19th.
No matter what the season or what the temperature, the evening dress is always a necessity; moreover, it is always a joy, for where is the woman who does not revel in choosing this gown of dainty fabrics and subtle colours, which, above all others, is likely to add charm and grace to her appearance t Therefore, I am going to tell you this week of the charming creations which the couturiers of Paris are turning out in the way of evening frocks and evening ensembles,
FLOWERS STILL FASHIONABLE.
MODERN MOTORING. DANGERS AND ITS VIRTUES.
TOY THE BIGER REV. KERESET HENSLEY KENDON, BISHOP OF DURHAM, IN
Are still fashionable for even- ITS ing wear. Mostly, they are worn high up on the shoulder, sometimes at the waist, sometimes linked in a kind of daisy chain scross the back. Many of the flounced net, frocks I have just describ
THE EVENING STANDARD. "I- That the onlooker sees most of the game
incorrigible individualism of the English- man that inclines him to this relatively unsociable instrument of travel: perhaps it is only the irrational list of speed for its own sake, which is the sinister charac teriatio of our time. Whatever the cause, the fact is beyond question, and it pro- mises more and worse risks to all who use the high roads.
There is however, another side to the
ed, if the founces are cut out in scallops is an aphorism which has been abun picture, 3lotoring has something better dantly authenticated by experience. It to any for itself than the record of multi- extends certainly to the ease of the piring perils. It has brought into exist
is a lesser tendancy to wear just one bloom, two or three smaller blooms being
sible view
ehce a new race of artisans, I have
or vandykes, are finished off with a lower on each point. Flowers very often de carate the hanging end of a scarf. There motorist who sits beside his chauffeurcome to form a very high estimate of and takes an independent and irrespon- the professional chauffeur. He is still the road and its happenings generally a young man, though his pro- fession has now lasted long enough to preferred, as this enables one to choose For some years. I bave occupied that posi-hare middle-aged men among its nem- three graduating tones to harmonisation, and, as my episcopal duty compels bers. Temperate, intelligent, self-res me to be incessantly motoring, I allow peeting, well-mannered, extraordinarily with the shade of the frock,
helpful-the chauffeur is a very valuable Suffering womankind will be relieved myself to think that I have acquired some addition to British citizenship.
There are, of course, black sheep " to know that a fashion edict has goas title to the authority of a well-informed
observation of the professional chauffeur, ferth decreeing large evening bags for and detached witness on the vexed ques-in every flock, but, in my experience and this season. One of the latest models is tious of motorists and motoring. In he is such a man as I have described.
beaded affair that is long and narrow this article I propose to set down some think he compares very favourably indeed and worker in amazingly intricate of the conclusions to which I have been with the type which he has replaced. The worst conduct on the roads is hardly ever that of the professional chauffeur, FAVOURITE COLOURS FOR EVEN-designa, mostly flora in character that led."
Of all the many and multiplying nor is be responsible for the worst ac ING GOWNS.
allows for ample space for handkerchie!,
this motoring drama is the owner chauf First of all, there is the matter of powder, rouge, lip stick, purse and the dangers of motoring I give primacy of cidents. The true villain of the plate. colour. As to this, there seem to be but other necessities of life a woman must place to the motor-erclist. He is almost feur, who knows neither, the mechanism two favourites, white and mauve. There needs carry round with her. Even the always young; be is often reckless, be is of his car, nor the rules of driving; nor
༢° ་ "it.
not rarely accompanied by a young lady the courtesies of the road.
HELPING SOBRIETT. whose power of adhesion to the saddla
aro more white frocks to be seen of an flat envelope type of bag is much larger
of rules or her sense of responsibility. Anong the causes which are making for evening this season than there have been than last season's Gold and silver kid is out of all proportion to her knowledga for many a day; but they are rarely continue to be considered smart for bags, The audacity with which break-neck risks sobriety in the nation, I give an im- There are white frocks although white kid and white maire are provoked is only equalled by the portant place to motoring. Drunkenness just white. mixed with gold in the form of em- finished off with designs embroidered in hilarious glee with which escape is seen
make them go faster and faster," was broidery, bands of panels of lamé or cut steel, coloured silks or imitation enjoyed. You see, sir, it's their girl brocade; there are white frocks mixed jewels, is perhaps considered mors the the observation of a young miner who with silver in the same way; then there thing to carry with one of the white was discussing with me the idiosyncrasies are white frocks heavily embroidered all evening frocks I have just mentioned. of motor cyclists, and I think that there
Bags of the peggy type, fashioned of may be some truth in his words. over with crystal and pearl beada, favourite treatment, by the way; then, velvet, silk or brocade fasten with clasps.
a
PILLION PERILS.
be criminal: drinking while on
bers of chauffeurs are practically, if not duty is felt to be dangerous: great num professedly, total abstainers. It is still too common for well-intentioned but very feurs. I am very sure that the general foolish persons to offer drink to chauf feeling of the profession would welcome the disappearance of the practice. Here again it is the owner-chauffeur who it
there are white frocks into which a note that are charming little Dresden china for many terrible, accidents. There are the principal source of danger.
heads. There are also vanity cases to be seen that are no more than larger editions of these same charming heads.
of colour is introduced by means of ribbons, flowers, embroidery or bands of other material, so that the term white frock" covers quite a large field of colour as well. I went to see Vionnet's spring collection the other day, and was struck more than anything, by the whole- sile use of white in the evening gowns.with which they are worn. Gold and
HEELS AS HIGH AS EVER. As to footwear, it goes without saying that even shoes are of gold or silver lamé or of brocade to match the frock
Pillion-riding is admittedly responsible many experienced motorists who would Motoring has meant for thousands of not hesitate to urge ita legal prohibition, people a great widening of interest. When, however, I consider the enormous Education has opened their eyes to the amount or innocent pleasure which it historical treasures of their own coun enables, I shrink from so drastic a stop. try. They regard with intelligent in- terest the famous buildings of England, But the danger is very great, and we must hope that in time the fair pillion and feed their cultivated fancy in the riders themselves will realise that there scenes of great achievement." The Day- are exceptions, to the time-honoured rule, ight Saving Act has proved unprece
dented opportunities for satisfying their Amor omnia vincit.
desires. It is the cheap motor car and the motor-cycle which enable numbers of
Glaring headlights and the absence of
fruitftl
Defective cara, inadequate brakes, tram-lines, the ignorance of drivers, and the deafness of pedestrians are all but too common. No deaf person ought to be permitted to drive. The new excel lence of the roads seems to go along with a greater tendency to skidding, and in vites the dispersal of children spinning tops far across the tempting smooth surface.
motoring in spite of its formidable and waxing risks.
the most
There is, indeed, one aspect of the subject which, at this season of the year, dweller in the country, and must cast a cannot be abacat from the mind of a shadow of anriety over enthusiastic advocate of motoring. The preservation of British birds, the pecu. liar pride of our island, is certainly hindered by the noise and movement (to say nothing of the reckless and cruel interference) of motorists during the nesting scazon. This injury is the mere difficult to remedy because, for the most part, it is unintentional and ursuspect- ed. But it is a very grave injury, none the less and deserves the careful con-
A few days later, I called in one morn-silver kid appear to have made their rear lights on bicycles are ing to see Paton's show, and here again, final exit as far as fushions are concert-causes of accidents. The first are abso-shop assistants, small clerks, school tes- lutely blinding, so that for a space the thers, and artisans to take advantage of there was the same wholesale display ofed, as they are rarely to be seen these dazzled chauffeur has to proceed by their increased leisure. These conside
rations must be allowed to incline the white in the evening models, so, with days. Moire and silk poplin embroided-faith, not by sight," a very perilous pro balance of advantage to the side of
cedure in motoring, however sound it these two great designers sanctioning ed on the toe cap and round the vamp may be in theology. The fast is extreme white, there can remain no doubt about look dainty with certain types of frock unfair on the chauffeur. If the head its bring one of the fashionable colours Coloured satin, too, is worn quite a lot, lights could be mitigated and the rear but mostly in shades of tan, champagne, the roads would be much safer after lights on bicycles could be insisted upqa, of the season.
tabac or that lovely tint known as dark. THE MATERIALS CHIEFLY WORN.
"blonde." Black satin is always smart, As to material, most of the models
especially if something striking in the scein to be fashioned crêpa Georgette,
way of buckles is added.. A simple yet especially the beaded models, of pante becoming idea is to outline the vamp and velvet, of moire and of crêpe de Chineinstep strap with a row of diamente. I noticed at Paton's, even an evening fAnother idea is to add a piping of gold cloak made of white velvet gathered into and substitute gold heels for the ordi- a form round the shoulders by triangularnary black ones. Silver looks well in of old-fashioned honeycomb smocking, this way, too. Heels are as high as ever but there is a definite change in their and topped by a deep block fox collar shape, for the carved Louis heels are
THE WORSE OFFENDER. Another charming frock I saw at a smart slowly but surely being ousted by the thoughts from the perils to the tragedier most formidable, because they are the gathering recently was in white velvet tapering erban ones that the creative of motoring. Children and dogs are the.
Noise is bad for nesting birds: it is genius of Perugia is responsible for. "I and was fitted with a tablier fronta a exquisite example of the art of lenst intelligent and the most intract- bad also for mankind. Here again we Both, in recognise in the motor cyclist the worst embroidered in gold and silver, thread this bottler recently when I went with able enemies of the motorist. and bordered with a band of seal. Many the rest of Paris to see Spinelly playarying measure appeal to the chanfcffender. The succession of sharp re- feur's heart, and in his humane efforts ports, beginning faintly at a distance, of the latest evening wraps are made of the part of a circus rider in a farcical to avoid them he may too readily rush and growing on the ear until it reaches
play Le Dompteur, ou L'Anglais tel qu'on le Mange. In one act, she enters into disaster. There is no darker and a crescendo of violence, only to dis away more afflicting mystery in human life in a long-drawn-out sequence of failing in a white-tulle circus frock, no tights than the absence of any discernible re- sobs, is absolutely torturing to the stud. and a pair of the most adorable white lation between human fanit and its con- dent, the sleepless, the sensitive, and the and black check shoes fitted with enor mously bigh black patent leather cuban sequences. Where the first is least the invalid. Motor-cyclists speak indeed of POPULARITY OF MAUVE.
last may be worst.
beneficent instrument styled a. "silencer," Small children are, of course, irrespon- It must have been so named on the para heels As others usually follow where Now, as to the other shade, mauve. Peagi leads, it is safe to assume that sible, and cannot be fairly blamed for doxical principle tueus a non lucenda, This is even more comprehensive than from how on there will be a decline in
any folly they may exhibit, but they rush for of its existence there is no sensible to their doon with a persistence which evidence. white, it includes all that gamut of the rogue for Louis heels.. shades ranging from deep purple down
white velvet and lined with black velvet, so that they can be worn with effect Feither side out.
to the palest lilac, and even shades such,
CHILDREN.
The mention of children turns my
sideration of all bird-lovers.
may defeat the best chauffeur's endes- If the inventive genius which is in- Yours. Yet, when the tragedy has been cessantly improving the mechanism of as mauve pink, bois de rose maute and HUSBAND AND WIFE OF 102. accomplished, and the poor little victim motor vehicles would direct itself to the of the motor has to be retrieved from removal of this intolerable feature of the others than just border on mauve. At THE OLDEST MARRIED COUPLE IN the scene of its destruction, how poignant motor cycle, it would confer a notable is the sorrow of the wholly innocent boon on society, and cleanse motoring of THE COUNTRY. -- any fashionable theatre now-a-days, it
chauffeur as he reflects on what the small one of its worst drawbacks. As thinga creature meant to its parents and what stand at present, the noise of passing ia possible to count dozens of women dressed in some shade of mauve; -per- haps it is because this is a kinder shade Green-street Greet, Farnborough, was potencies, of happiness and achievement motors renders life along the roadsides, were done away by its premature death! in the neighbourhood of large cities,
Parents and school-teachers cannot be by night than by day to the ordinary 102 in April His wife will attain the skin that is not immaculate of blemishes. same age in August. They are probably too careful to impress on the childran almost unendurable at holiday times and Whereas white frocks are invariably the oldest married couple in Great with whom they are charged a wholesome allied to some other material or colour, Britain. these mauve frocks are exclusive and
rely mostly on the soft becomingness of the shade itself for effect. Day frocks made of crêpe de Chine, crêpe Marocain and similar fabrics of a heavier type, are finished with tucks, pleats and buttons, evening frocks are mostly made of crêpe Georgette or net, and are a mass of flounces, godeta, panels and flowing scarves. A favourite idea with a number of designers is to ally a close-fitting bodice to a skirt that is a series of scalloped or vandyked flounces, over- lapping each other, and graduating from a deep to a light tint. Bome go further,. and dip the skirt at each side in a point. AN ORIGINAL METHOD OF
UBING NET.
Mr. John E. Taylor, öf Hillside House,
Mr. Taylor, who until quite recently took a brisk walk every day, believes that a glass of beer and a pipe are conducive to long life, and is a staunch opponent of prohibition. Ho retains his sight and hearing and his memory is perfect He recalls many interesting events of early Victorian days.
Among his recollections are:
Shaking hands with the "Iron Duke."
Laying the red cloth for Queen Victoria's coronation.
Helping to erect the Great Exhibi- tion building (now the Crystal Palace) in Hyde Park.
MEETING THE IRON DURE. He met the Duke of Wellington while engaged as a youthlal carpenters on the Hyde Park work.
Mr Taylor was born near Bethlem Hospital, and he remembers the quaint makeshift arrangements in, connection with the first railroad in London.
Writing of not reminds the of the scarves that accompany nearly all of the frocks this season. These are either of net, tulle, ninon or georgette. Mostly, they are plain, although I have seen sortie charming ones in beaded net and those days," he said, it used to in printed, tulle and georgette. Many of the latest evening gowns, those destined: for the matron rather than for the jeune fille, show. n-low neck that is com pietely filled with a talle empiecement 61. the same shade as the dress so that this melte into it as it were. Instead of finishing in a hard line round the neck, it ends in discreet folds and ties in long ends at the back, or on the shoulder Quite an original idea, and a very be coming one to the woman whose neck and shoulders are not as round and plump as they might be...
be quite a common thing, for us lads to 665. that we could walk faster than Effing Billy. Certainly the trains used to crawl along very slowly. At first there were very few railway stations, so plat- forms were erected here and there at special points and people paid to take a position on them to wait for the trains, which, of course, did not travel with any punctuality, de
dread of motors. The effort to secure spaces, where children may play in detyr ought to be greatly strengthened the new perils which attach to their 68 playgrounds.
memorial treatment of the high roads
The statistics of exime for England and Wales for 1924 show that the ritks of motoring are growing with startling, rapidity, as the number of cars and cycles. increases." Offences against the Highway Acts, including motor cases. which in the period 1898-1903 averaged only just over 40,000, amounted in 1924 to nearly 200,000. Meanwhile the number of motorists is rapidly multiplying, recent writer in the Spectator (April 3rd, 1928) dwells on this point
A
On November 30th last there were 167,763 more motor vehicles in usein Great Britain than on the correspond- ing day of 1924, the totals being 1,423,293 on November 30th, 1925, and -1,250,530, in 1924. The amount paid in taxation during the twelve months ending November last was 216,502,139, as against 214,733,186 in 1921. These figures represent an increase of 13.35 por cent. of vehicles in use, and 12.25 per cent in the revenue. Of the motor vehicles in use on November 30th last, there were approximately 588,000 cara, 490,000-motor cycles, 332,000 com- mercial cass, and 84,000 hackney vehicles.
It is a truly terrifying reflection that Although I was born in London I the number of motor-cycles increases like the Farnborough district, because the daily." Great Britain is now the lead- fresh aid helps to keep one well and in ing country of the world in the manufac
ture of motor-cycles. Perhaps it is the goed spirits
every week-end throughout the year.-- HERBERT DUNELA
THERE'S A LONG, LONG TRAIL
of
Bugs, Fleas, Flies, Beetles, Mosquitoes,
all killed br
KEATING'S
THERAPION No- THERAPION: No. 2 THERAPION NO. 8
Mà 3 for Madóm Dimecko No. 1 for Wood & Miche
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