PARIS FASHION NOTES.
[FROM OUR SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT, (BABEL RAMBAY.]
THE "HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, WEDNESDAY,
COMMON SENSE IN CLOTHES.
PHYSICIAN ON FASHIONS OF TO-DAY.
BRITAIN'S FALLING BIRTH RATE.
SERIOUS 1925 FIGURES.
"The birth rate
MARCH 10TH, 1926
THIS AGE OF WASTE.
1.
(DY PLOVESBON A. M. LOW.]
PARIS. January 24th.
It is many yeary since science was Sir Robert Armstrong-Jones, the well- You have no idea how beautiful Paris known physician, lecturing at Gresham wates, as a whole, during 1995 was the dabbled in the black arts and the scientist of England and regarded as the perquisite of those who look in her winter garb. For over a College, Basinghall Street, on the sub- lowest recorded except. during the war as a man whose stock-in-trade consisted week now the snow has been falling with jeet of "Physic," had some interesting years 1917 and 1918" This statement of a cat, a skull, and a couple of black a atrady persistancy that has resulted in observations to make upon ** clothes," Faru being shrouded in a mantle of show from the top hat of a man down to the ment issued from Somerset House re the stage when natural discovery, the velvet curtains. We have almost reached accompanied the preliminary announce- a foot or so deep. You can't imagine how high heel shoes of a woman. There was, garding the birth and death rate figures attempt of the world to explain the com enchanting the gårdens of the Palais he said, very little to be said to-day for the past year. It was added that
moa evants of life, has become more im- Royal look in this guise, as though the against the annitary and salutary way the death and infantile mortality rates portant to the man in the street than a snow had lent them an added patine of that women clothed themselves. In both were equal to those recorded in the pre-social knowledge of Greek or Latin." mystery; neither can you imagine the old persons and young it was very neces-
vious year.
For England and Wales as a whole Even the stockbroker is intrigued by his reckless splendour of the Piner de in
sary to retain heat, for losing it meant the rate of births per 1,000 of the total son's knowledge of wireless and is in- Concorde, or the fairy-like beauty of the
lost vitality, and
therefore
doctors population was 18.3 last year. In Lou-terested in the working of his telephone.
don it was only 18.0. For the 105 county
Possibly the most remarkable illustra- Champs Elsees, anless, of course, you
always · recommended the wearing of boroughs and great towns (including tion of our lack of progress in the world have been fortunate to be in Paris when flannel next the skin. It kept the body London) the figure was 18.8, and in the of to-day is the manner in which waste
fromis countenanced. 158 smaller towns (population
We may boast of our civilisation and our politicians may make have seen it for yourselves. If you have temperature normal, the use of it also 20,000 to 50,000) the rate was 18.3.
rapid preventing "too
evaporation, The return in respect of the death cunomy the watchword of their platform (crude) rate shows that the rate perppeals but scientific education and dis although in the case of night attire, when 1,000 of the population of England and covers alone can prevent wastage.
Our everyday lives teem with examples to irritate it with rough flannel material, for the great towns For the smaller
towns the rate was 11.2, and in London tion. and during sleep linen and cotton gar- it was 11.7. It is explained that the Men figure for England and Wales relates to the whole population, but in the ease Just now, they are going about muffledents were very much better.
it has been covered in
snow,
and you
with
you will no doubt have carried away you, as well, a memory of Parisiennes
and of how charming they too looked in the skin was resting, there was no need Wales was 1929, which was the same as a waste that is terrible beyond descrip
their winter garb.
MUFILED IN FORS.
гр
HOW WE WASTE COAL..
up to their ears in furs, of the varieties erred in this matter by wearing flannel of London and the groups of towns gay which we throw away in tens of thou-
I predicted in a recent letter. The very Primas, which for night attire were very the civil population is concerned.
rich, so swathed in sables or chinchilla, the rich wrap themselves round in mink
undesirable.
The top hat has gone out of fashion ex
Deaths of infants under one year of age numbered 75 per 1,000 births in Eng- land and Wales London returned the much lower figure of 67, compared with
What made England great? Why was the country a land fit for heroes before the Wart Coal, nothing but the coal sands of tons every day. It is wasted at the pithead, where antiquated machinery supplements conditions of the Middle Ages; it is burnt in furnaces which throw
steam engines which lose 60 per cent. in à manier that makes even the act of waste, mast inconvenient.
or squirrel, the well-to-do den "sealskin cept for use at weddings and funerals. 79 in the great towns and 74 in the 20 per cent. to the winds, and used in
nutria, astrakan poney, whereas the rest of humanity keeps itrelf warm as hest can in imitation aiskin, reindeer. gazelle, marmot, sixsliky, thipmunk, and rabbit, disguised neath so many imitations and called by so many names that a mother rabbit would never recognise her offspring.
or
OWD
In keeping with the fashionable are tine, there are numbers of coats to be seen that show a definite fare from the
Others, are more hips down.
Iesa straight back and front, hat have godets introduced each side so that a flaring line is suggested. The more popular fine, though, is the straight coat, made in
smaller towns.
[CONTRIBUTED.]
All this energy goes begging at a rate that would bankrupt the world's supply were we to continue without hope of new methods. The smoko that gives us fogs and steals thousands each year from the pockets of business men and shopkeepers is worse than a loss; it brings in its That a Ball is, and is bound to be more train the further wastage of disease. successful if all, or most, of the partici-Coal by-products more valuable than the pants are Masked, is a statement that, fuel itself are thrown away to the tune surely, admita of no qualification.
of over £90,000,000 yearly. At a modeat computation, £100,000,000 is lost on our coal in twelve months.
It was very charming, dignified, and im- pressive, but those things had to give way to comfort; moreover, it was very badly ventilated, and no moisture could TO MASK OR NOT TO MASK get through it. Collars were apt to grip the neck; they were rather a constric-
TIME THE GREAT PROBLEM. tion which was bad for the returning dow of circulation in the veins. As far as the trunk and extremities were concern. ed it was bad to wear a belt, and far better to have clothing suspended from the shoulders. As to women-be spoke with bated breath-their hats were now made for shingled hair, and, he consider We human beings are but children with cd them much too tight for ordinary out the child's absolute unselfconscious Went. Women were more apt to neural-ness. We love to be, and to behave as The price we pay for comfort is appal gias, glands, sore throats, and laryngitis children, but we detest the thought of ling. Our motor-cars use about 10 per cent of the petrol we purchase to carry than men, which was the penalty they making ourselves ridiculous.
How much to be envied are those grown-us along the road; the rest we pay to lose had to pay for observing convention. High heels had a tendency to deformity, ups who, fearing no ridicule, and very through exhaust pipes and radiaters. as they threw the body forward, and the seldom getting any can behave as, and To estimate this useless (7) residue at oints were cramped, and they got in- be at case with children of any age in £50,000,000 per annum is to err on the Hammation and pains.
any mad pranks,, however absurd..
ride of moderation.
.
Unfortunately, most of us need some outside stimulus before we can shed our
It is not only in the realms of the manufacturer.and the engineer that man. glaring example. Our lighting bill, the and the savage, costs about fifty tiraes as dividing, commodity between ourselves much as it should.
voluminous proportions so that it can he
Apart from those things the lecturer crossed completely over in front. Sleeves said that he thought, on the whole, that, are fairly wide nadi, quite lain, and col. quite apart from the exposure of the selfconsciousness, and no aid to forget-kind is spendthrift: the household is a Apper part of the chest, woman's clothing oneself is so potent as anonymity. ing to-day was exceedingly sensible; they almost let himself go when be reaches The staidest citizen of Hongkong can restriction, and, but for their stockings, same pastures are the Kit Cat Club, th had been enfranchised from too rigid pastures new and fresh-whether these they were very warmly clad.
Piccadilly Grill or the Hammersmith Palais de Danse.
lars are huge affairs that quite cover the shoulders with an extra covering when the coat is open, and daubic over and snuggle up round the neck to the tops of the ears, when it is closed. Needless, to adu,
HAIRDRESSING AT N.S.C. there are no pockets, except in the lining. This, by the way, is always chosen in n BARBERS INSTEAD OF BOXERS. most decorative type of figured brocade,
Sportsmen of the old school had they printed crêpe de Chine or lame. Many looked in at the National Sporting Club of the big furriers are fond of lining their vue might last month, says a London more expensive coats with gold or silver paper, would have been amazed at the secne. Instead of a boxing contest they linings, adding, in the case of crmine or would have seen mmaculately attired white rabbit conts and capes, a narrow young men with wavy hair busily engaged in waving the hair of eight charming piping of lamé between each row of skins.young women. They were competitors But for every-day wear, choose a decora- for a prize of £40 and a silver challenge tive ugured silk lining, in grey, nattier the latter to be held for one year. The contest was arranged by well known West-end hairdressing company, and was open to all hairdressers and assistants who used the
blue or jade green and you will, not only be, in the forefront of fashions 28 ex- pounded the furtiers of Paris, but you will find you have fitted your coat with a fining that will wear well, ha add a charming note to your dress when you "throw your coat open.
EVENING WEAR.
J
Houses are warmed by fires placed on
In the kitchen we are as bad or worse.
outside walls, open grates lose half the To those to whom a disguise is neces-beat" we have purchased at 40s. per sary before letting go of their every dayton, and kitchen ranges must be lit and selves, there has been no such golden furnaces kindled to warn a mass of bricks. opportunity this winter of shedding all and iron before ouc little piece of meat mundane cares.. as is promised at the can be made hot for 20 minutes. Masked Ball on March 18th
During every meal we pour money The disguise, the Spirit of Carnival,down the drain. We burn lights we do the Music from the two Bands, the lure of not want, we waste expensive food simply the unw, and the introduction, just because we cannot use the energy of that: for the evening, of the touch of Romance, food without employing the many waste- all tend to put the individual, however ful processes still needed to keep our the very best terms with himself. disgruntled he may be during the day, on
bodies in working order.
years ago.
Then
What man can usefully consume a 7s. 60, meal, not to mention a dinner at £1 18. After a meal the food value of the scraps is quite per cent of that of the meal itself. It is an old joke that the leavings of salt, pepper und mustard have made the fortunes of many a grocer. In 1823 the joke is against those who pay to-day's food prices.
It is a pity that Diplomatie: Usage Prevents an open invitation being sent to some of our friends in Canton.
What history might be made in a corner of the Ballroom, or over a bottle of cham- pagne, that mighty healer of wrongs, real or imaginary, if a few of the leading method of hair-waving of the crganisers. foregather in the Spirit of the evening. particular spirits of Hongkong and Canton could
In our personal habits we are terrible Over 1,000 members of the public wit-and stage a local Locarno net.
offenders against the laws of economy. nessed the contest, which was staged on indeed would the Masked Ball of March Clothes are calamitous; people will have the famous ring in the centre of the bail 19th go down in Hongkong history along them, and they join the list of goods which Curiously enough, the majority of the side that other Bail at Brussels over 100 bring fortunes to their happy providers. audience consisted of men, mostly bald.
A man's clothes actually affect bis in Over the floor of the ring had been placed As a side thought, does this not all come. A doctor in a carpet, and all the women models were bring to the fore the great and beneficent muit would get little 'business, he must one-piece washable accommodated on blue enamelled chairs, good that would eventuate if that Cos-waste quite £50 each year on decorating while at their elbows were placed white mopolitan Club that was to the fore ahimself with the modern medicine man's enamelled cabinets resplendent with per few months ago was in existence. In the regalia. fumed shampoos, cosmetics, and other Spirit of friendliness generated by the And politicians talk of economy! It is articles..
atmosphere which, it is hoped, will per-science that has as its one object the Sharply at eight o'clock the official vado the City Hall on this occasion-and prevention of waste. timekeeper struck bell," and the brat which would be a necessary ingredient of destructible may be a law of nature, but Taat nothing is his model Ermly by the fair and put it disagreements would be straightened out assisting our pocket, and ye continue round. started. Each competitor seized a properly run Cosmopolitan Club-more the element of time prevents creation into curlers. Then followed a series of and more friendships would be formed gladly to spend £318,000,000 on drinks. operations which lasted nearly an hour. I in a single evening than could be brought Even there are wasted as a "bobby and Finally, all the apparatus used was about by weeks of barren discussion in cleaned, and fire judges entered the ring cold, official Board rooms, amidst formal used up in food value.
in remnants. Those millions are not all to indge the results. One of the judges surroundings. directly he got into the ring found that However, that is getting away from the his artistic temperament could not be present question which is that of Mask controlled, for he whipped out a combing. That anyone will deliberately choose and began to comb one of the heads of to come to the Ball unmasked is not to the models. He was reproved in such a be though of for a moment, but the dan manner that in his embarrassment he ger lies in leaving the question of obtain stepped into a trag of cosmetics, and ing a Mask too late bare ten days with his elbow, knocked over some bottles is all that there is before the Ball.
Luckily a very simple Mask that fulfills be made at home, or a tailor would prob ably be able to cut out something that
can pass." Dominoes for such as have then, are excellent is a cloak for one's identity and many kinds of Fancy Dresses are effective as a Mask. The whole point at question is Time.
.
י
400 MILLIONS A YEAR The science of medicine strives to pre- vent wastage and to kill the bacteria that wage a war of attrition upon mankind. The edginger strives to save fuel and the scientist tries to supply our needs from synthetic waste, so that more loss may bi avoided.
For evening wear, there is a tremen dous vugüe for white rabbit capes. Of course, there is nothing to prevent you from appearing in a cape of white ermine. for a change, if the whim scizer yo's and there is no obstruction such as a limited bank account, to prevent you. But, otherwise, slip a cape of white rabbit over your evening frock, having previously seon that it is lined with jade green satin or black velvet, and you will realize why so many Parisiennes are doing likewise just now. These capes are quite plain, are devoid of slits for the arms to pass through and are fnislied merely with an enveloping collar of the type I have just described. I was present last weak at the of hair wash, much to the amusement of the purpose of a disguise can easily thought," the most permanent effort of first night performance of "Passione the audience. ment" a charming musical comedy, for which the music had been written by that compoter of fairylike melodies,” André
For your evening frocks, mesdames, Messager, so that it is useless to add that it is being hailed as one of the choose lamé or lamé brocade for the more elaborate onca and velvet or beaded triumphs of the season. As it is being tripe Georgette for the loas elaborate given in the Theatre de in Michodiere, ones and for all informal wear, and you the new banbonniere theatre that has will be following in the footsteps of Paris, If everyone gets busy on the problem of become the rendezvous of all smart Paris, whose smart people are all going about disguise sow, at once, there will be no I took particular notice of the dressing robed in such attire just now. I write agonised last moment searches for and of every six women there, I noticed beaded for want of a more comprehensive old thing to serve to cloak one's sins of two were wearing white tablit copes word. for, at a matter of fact, beaded procrastination. "There were two sisters who attracted
are far thore elaborate and com- general attention by appearing in black plicated than they have ever been before, sity for a successful Ball, and all barfi is only science, that makes any prat
Meanwhile as Munic is the prime neces sequin dresses, over which they drew Spangles figure a great deal in what one the unique chance of choosing their own white rabbit capes, into the collar of each calls by the general term of a bead programme of favourite dances, it behoves was pinned a deep red rose. As they dress. Likewise sequins, the latter to all to be up and doing to get their cou both had black hair well oiled and drawn an extraordinary extent. In fact the pons tiled up and sent in as soon as down about their bead and onto their smartest evening frocks now are being possible. Ferb ap cheeka like one of Fish'a ladies, the effect made of net entirely covered in black or was rather extraordinary, and certainly coloured spangles. There is a great sigue dances not included in the list which
It should be added that if there are Very striking.
There is no demand for short fur coats rose and fade green also look effective, Ball, it is only necessary to send the for moonlight blue spangles. Bois dex number of people wish to be played at the in Paris. Practically every American the one essential feature of such dresses names of them in to have them included woman and girl who disembarks at Cher is their design, which must be as simple in the programme. It must be distinctly bourg prior to descending on Paris, has as possible, and their ornamentation, understood, however, that no change can at least one for jacket tucked away in her which, as much as possible must be a be made in the voting Est, which was smart American luggage. But Parisiennes negligeable quantity, all the effect coming compiled after consultation with the will bare none of them.
from the glistening note of the spangles leaders of several Banda na to which themselves.
Dances drow the most encores.
(Continued on next column.).
43
ary.
Education teaches us not to waste all, and tells us how to use our brain. so that the effort of thought may not con- sume food and fuel in a wasteful manner) Even the bricklayer is not forgotten by clence The Department of Industrial tells him where hodily energy, is thrown Research photographs his movements and away without useful result by unnecessary motions in lifting bricks.
Wireless is another terrible example. We waste, hundreds of horse power in communicating signals, over a few miles without enough energy at the receiving end to move a feather.
lical attempt to safe and cronom
Our leaders have not yet realised the mockery of flag days for hospitals, and hospitals fight for progress as tauch as they fight against disease. What would for the Navy? Would it be less logical the man in the street think of a flag day
the blind. than purchasing coloured ribbons to help With a yearly preventable waste of anything up to £400,000,000, we should pause to think. Add a few noughts to that figure by all means it is only a drop in the ocean of waste in which we cheerfully bathe the whole year round. Evening Standard:
+
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TO BE PUBLISHED SHORTLY,
THE DIRECTORY
AND. CHRONICLE
1926.
FOR CHINA, JAPAN, KOREA, INDO OHINA, SIAM, STRAITS SETTLE MENTS, MALAY STATES, NE THERLANDS INDIA, PHIILÍP. FINES, BORNEO, Ero.
SIXTY-FOURTH ANNUAL
ISSUE
Parc
Abridged Edition.
812
THE DIRECTORY covare the notable events, ports and cities of the Far East, from Netherlands. India to Siberia, in which Europeans reside.
Not only if the Directory as full and complete in each ease a it can be made, but sach Colony, Port or Settlement is prefaced by DESCRIP TION, carefully revised each year, the majority of which will serve an or GUIORS FOR THE TOUR, giving every detail in connection with the places, their History
opography,!
ota
ing
Information in these Descriptions, consist- of a hundred interesting articles, packed with tacts concisely set out ad containing statistics of the Thing of each Country and port, would alous suffice to fill a large volume,
The Book is printed from New Type specially reserved for the purpose, and uniformity in every arrangement greatly facilitates refaronos.
Besides the usual Alphabetical List of Firms, the Directory gives the CLASSIFIED LISTS of TRADES and PROFESSIONS at the larger Commercial Centres.
The ALPHABETICAL LIST of RESIDENTS in the Far East contains the names of over 20,000 FOREIGNERS
arranged, with the Initials as well as the Bur names, in strictly Aphabetical Order, so that any name can be found instantly.
THE MAPS AND PLANS
of the principal ports of the Far East have been engraved by one of the most eminent Firms iz Great Britain and are annually corrected and brought
tup to date.
The CHRONICLE covers the notable #vanta together with the Texts of all the most import als Treaties concluded with the countries of Eastern Asia, the various Customs Tarifs Trade Begalations, Chambers of Commerce, Scales of Commissions, Consular and Court Food, Hongkong Stamps Duties, Signal Codes, Chinese Festivals, Tables of Money Weights and Menrares and other Com." marcial Information.
It is published at the Office of the "Hora. LONG DAILY PRISS."
The Directories and Descriptions are of 100.
O
OSMA
Feriaz Tientsin Peitaiko
Boedhow
Chinkiang
Naching
Chinwangtac
Wahu
Krukiang
Tankow Yoshow
Antung
Manchurian
Trade Ctres Shai
K
Canton
Kowloon
Lappa
Shameni
Kongmoo
Nanning
Wachow
K'Chan
Newchwang Iching
Pakkoi
Dairen Port
1.
Arthur Chefoo
Changking"
Hotnow
Hangche
Lungekow
Ningpo
Menglem
Wathiwei
Wanchow
Hokow
Baninao
Sitemao
Mokda
Fooshow
Tongyueh
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Amoy
Changchar
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Kirm
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Langkow
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JAPAN & FORMOSA.
Moji
Nuganki
Koolang Taipeh
Erkolata
Shinozard
Kyoto
Ozats
Tammi
Anping
EASTIES EXPERIA ̈
Vladivostock
Nicolajewak
Beonl
Cror (Korea).
Wassan
Chemulpo Kanan
Plagne
Kokpo
Bongolte
Hozerang AKM 178 DEPENDENCES, MADAD, FICK INDO-CHIRL
Hanoi
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Hus
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Perlis
"ÉTRAITS EFFILAMENTS Singapors, Penang, Malacca, Pror. Wellste
Bataris
SHYHERLANDS INDIA.
BRESH, AND
Barang
Soumbaya
Padang
det: Court of Bann
AMERICAN - SquaBRORE IN CHEMA AND JARÁK, OFFICIZE OF COAT & BITES STEAMERS