.8
PARIS FASHION NOTES.
FROM OUR SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT. ISABEL RAMSAY.]
DISOVISED YUR. "
THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, SATURDAY, JANUARY 9TH, 1926
What interested me the most, though, in the whole collection was the coat and the far sections. Nothing is more amus PARIS, November, 1923
ing than the way in which fur is being Jenny is one of the few among the
treated and disguised this season. fashion monarcha of Paris, for all their rabbit, musquash, haro and opossum, I As to candy cleverness, who is able to create perfectly straight-line dresses and yet spirit could return to earth and contem- am sure the dead animal himself, if his impart jug that one touch of individual-plate a fashion parade cår: Jenuj or one ity that makes all the difference between a simple dress that is a monotony, and
of the other big designers, would fail to recognise himself. a simpla dress that is a masterpiece. Another priceless feature of Jenpy's models, is the air of well-bred distinction they are capable of leading to almost any type of woman who don them. De cause they are never monotonous does not mean that this designer relies on startling effects of fine and colour for her Successes. On the contrary, the obtains them much more cleverly and effectively by means of subtle harmonies of colour, and long carving lines of impeccable
grace.
EXQUISITE COLOUR SCHEMES.
W
CHINCHILLA BUNNY
Certainly no bunny that aver drove a farmer to distraction, would recognise his former pelt, once it has been taken in hand by a Parisian furrier, and clipped, dyped' and faked, and anally, launched into the world, labelled "Chin- chilia," Likewise, no musquash rat, at ever terred away vs, life in recognise " what hau
Americ, would
BATA C
when made up, toning and choosing each with infinite care, and calling the finished product, Taupe Ambree," (amber mole). Anything softer or more fascinating than this fat can hardly be imagined. "Jenny is using it mostly es & means of trimming, although I noticed one or two models in the general show each width being outlined with a tiny room, that were fashioned of this fur, piping of gold lame-an idea Jenny made
formerly been hus humble brown coat, once it his been through the elever hands, and prevented to covetous! remininity in the form of a wonderous, Last week, like most of the big cou-shining sealskin coat,,But, furriers bare Buriers, Jenny showed her mid-season
not been content to improve upon Nature collection to a chosen few in the fashion in this way only in the matter of these and social worlds of Paris. The diitin- rew skins, and their latest triumphs, is guishing feature of this, I thought, was a transformation they have made of the the exquisite colour schemes and shade toft skin of young calves. They are cut- combinations. Her skirts are quite shortting it the size and shape of mole skins, and all of them show fuliness. introduced discreetly in the form of under panels, godets and plents. Some of the skirts of the lighter frocks are inlet all round with shaped godets that snake them look like a charming collection of attached petals. Cre of the models which achieved the most striking success WAS acne-piece walking frock, called
appropriately enough Mosaique. The bodies of this was straight in but, and fitted with long sleeves, and the skirt was entirely inlet with gudets of the same material but in a deeper tone; a vest, collar and eas of painted leather constituted a novelty of the season. Jenny is fond of contrast ing different shades of a same colour in this way. Another model. "Cross Coun.. try was carried out in kasha in two shades of rosewood, the long, straight egat being "in a dark shade, and the straight, one-piece frock with tiny flat pleats to add a touch of novelty to the skirt, being in a lighter shade.
THE KASEN VOGUE
a feature of. for the first time in the fur models she exhibited at the Exposition de Arte Decoratifs. One black velvet models, was finished with a deep collar coat, that was among the successfu! of call's skin.
DAME AUX CAMELIAS.
Ut velvet coats, there was any quantity. There were evning coats and cloaks for evening wear, and evening coats for day wear, and nearly are were inished wich bands or notifs of fur. There was one Kashas a matter of fact, is the pre-ly like the voluminous wraps which were black evening cloak that looked amusing donating material in Jenny's collection. worn during the 1880 period of dress. It is used in a most of shades, generally. It was wide and quite circular"in cut, one being harmonised with another to and dipping rather at the back; outlin obtain pleasing citers. With the lightering the edge was a double band of white and more neutral shades, such as beige, and black lax, so that, when the manne Rosewood and grey, it often happens gain swept into the salon with it drawn. that they will be thrown into "relier by meaus of bands of kasha or else some for all the World like the ill-fated Dame' closely round. her in front, she looked other material, in a vivid colour. This aux Camelias come back to life. will outline the hips, and, occasionally, it is wide enough to extend almeat to the
Another bottle' grum velvet boat was arm. Another novel way in which Jenny into a Greek key pattern. Ancther was trimmed with bands of beaver worked up harmonises two materials in different trimmed with strips of the beautiful shades, is to make the top half of a golden transformation furiers are mak sleeve of a dark shade and the lowering cf beaver. But, most criginal of al half, from the elbow to the wrist, of a light shade. As sleeves," slightly puffed, reside friend, the tabby pass, finishe. Was a coat made of the skins of our are showing signs of returning to faabion, this proves a most effective way
with a collar and a deep band round of using one material as a foil to. 30-
the hem of bearer. Furriers, of course, other. There another model 1
restrain from wounding the susceptibili admired tremendously, in, which this fur by its real name, and old a con tica of their fair cliente by calling this isiea of the double sleeve was
Coling little "wild" in front of the ried
Out, It was n dinner dress. showing a long-sleeved conic of black cuspiciously like our old by friend. ent"; but, for that, it looks velvet and a skirt of geld lamé veiled in black ner; the gold lame was repeated This has been used a great deal for motor rugs during the season, but rarely, be- fore for garments.
was
in the sleeves, these being of velvet to the elbow, and of the lamé from here to the wrist.
PAIRY-LIKE CREATIONS,
two
The evening models are mostly made of gorgeous lame, bracade beaded Haterial Jenny's beaded dresses are always eich affairs that look us though they had beed designed for some Eastern princess Not only ordinary beads, but seed pearls, crystal beads, apangles and diamente enter into the embroidery of these fairy. like creations. Here, ns, in her colour day frocks, Jenny introduces endless harmonies of graded shades of colour. One of the most effective of the evening gowns, to which the charming name of Pluie d'Argent" is given, is nothing less than a wide-skirted frock"!" silver amé, entirely covered with an embroidery carried out in silver spangles and longshaped pieces of glass, so that, as the mannequin paraded round in is, the light reflected back from these myriads of shining specks almost dazek
onc
Most of the suits are straight and of them are very simple, both in cus, and in design. The costs reach, just below. the hips, and the one-piece dress, worn underneath, is generally composed of two materials a dark shade forming the skirt, and a lighter shade forming the top part this seme material being also used as a lining to the coat. THE CONT-FROCK.
name of
X-RAY MARTYR FOR 15 YEARS. DEATH OF MR. BLACKALL.
U.S. INDUSTRIAL EFFICIENCY.
LESS WASTE AND BETTER METHODS.
20 OPERATIONS.
Landon papers last month announced
WAGES UP AND PRICES DOWN,
ful heroism, of Mr. Reginald Blackall, States Department of Commerce pro- the death, which ends a Hfe of wonder A striking example of how the United
X-ray pioneer. Mr. Blackall-a martyr the annual report of Mr. Hoover, Secre the London Hospital, radiographer and motes national efficiency la furnished by
to X-rays-died at his home at Leigh-tary of Commerce, describing "one of on-Sea He was only 44 years of age
the most astonishing transformations in" Mr. Blackall had suffered from X-ray
economic history" brought about by co- dermatitis, which results in inflammation operation between the Department and destroying the kin, for over 13 years
the industrial leaders of America.
and had undergone no fewer than 20tion of waste and improving the methods Since the work of studying the élimina operations The great improvements of management was begun in 1991, Mr. made in recent years in the protection of been held under the auspices of the De- Hoover states, 900 group conferences have operators concerned in the highly dan-partment, while more than 200 committees gerous work were largely due to his new co-operating with the Depart
ment on various phases. experiments,
X-ray work and started at the London He was one of the three plourers of
Hospital in 1800.
HANDS AMPUTATED,
Some of the accomplishments he notes
rating capacity, wider provision and use are the greater efficiency of the railways, a 60 per cent. increase in electric gene- of business statistics as a stabilising in- fluence in reducing speculation in com- modities, the expansion of industrial re Mr. Heard, his executor, told a research, and millions saved through sim- porter a pathetic story of Mr. Blaskaita plified practice, sufferings, which he bare uncomplain- ingly. He said:
Mr. Hoover quotes the British figures When Mr. Blackall went to the to show the superior industrial efficiency hospital there was no method of pre- of America. He points out that the venting injury to operators, and he British wage rate in 1920 was 130 per undertook the work knowing it would, and the wholesale price level wus 193 per cent. above the pre-war level, mean death sooner or later.
while in 1921 the British wage rates and wholesale price had dropped to 70 and
He soon contracted the disease and had to have a finger-nail removed in 1003. Amputation of three fingers followed. He was so ill in 1920 that he had to retire from active work, but at his own request still acted in an advisory capacity.
The disease had spread so much three years later that both Mr. Blackall's hands had to be amputated, but he never complained, and set to work to learn to write with an artificial hand so that he could continue to be
of use to the hospital. His favourite remark to people was: I'm still cheerful: not down and out by a long
chalk,!"
A grant of £75 a year was made to Mr. Blackall by the Carnegie Hero Fund in 1923, he was granted tull pay for life when he retired from active work at the hospital, and d publik subscription of £1,000 enabled him to buy his hous at Leigh-on-Ben,
him to his room, and his last operation Fer the past year the distase confined
took place three weeks before he died. He leaves a widow.
MARRIAGE RUSH, LAWS OF THREE NATIONS
COMPLIED WITH.
America bustle" found practical expression in the circumstances of a marriage which took place in London last month.
Lich, a New York surgeon, arrived in The bridegroom, Dr. Clarence W. England from the United States on a Thursday and went to the American range for an immediate wedding with Consulate, Cavendish-square, W., to ar
adopted daughter of Mr. Irving Swan- Alle, Germaine Sakakina, the French Brown, a member of the American colony in London..
He found the Consulate closed, in Apart from unusual pelts of this descelebration of the American Thanks cription, the outstanding feature in the giving Day, and as he was to sail from cut and laid on in patterns and intricate York he had to compress an elaborati fur world today is the fact it is being Southampton the following day for New motifs rather than in straight picors or procedure into three hours of Novelaber bands. Some of these patterns are complicated as lace or embroidery and add greatly to the general effect of rich news and imaginative splendour, that is the keynote of modern fashionz.
WHISKY IN SHAM BIBLES.. WOMAN GOVERNOR AND OIL MAGNATE.
GARAGE FITTED AS BAR.
za
A somewhat humorous situation has developed in the State of Texas, with Mrs. Miriam A. Ferguson, its governor, as the central figure.
the Ku Klux Klan, threatened to violato Her enemies, hom she identifies with the rules of political chivalry by im peaching her for undue sentimentality in pardening more than 1,000 convicts. To this she has replied by issuing a pro clamation offering £100 reward for the rest and conviction of any rich citizen committing crimes for which peor people have been sent to gaol,
97th.
French marriage law roepeeting French The complicated provisions of the people living abroad had ficat to be com plied with. The parties next called at the Faculty Office, which speeded up it machinery to obtain, the approval of th Archbishop of Canterbury aud to pro vide the necessary licsace. Then a motor car journey was made to the Paddington Register Office, Harrow-road, W., where the registrar was ready to play his part. Waiting thero Wes Mr. Russell H. Rhodes, American Vice-Consul, who at tended as 'an official witness.
By American law Mira Lieb does not other visit had to be paid to the Ameri becomo a United States citizen, and an-
can Consulate to obtain a visa andi manently in her husband's country, documents enabling her to reside per-
WOMEN BANKRUPTS.
LARGER NUMBER IN ENGLAND IN 1924.
One of the featurca of the 42nd general
Numbers of coat-frocks were to be seen, explaining ita necessity, after dwelling the bankruptcies of 1924, just issued by In the proclamation and in interviayaanual report of the Board of Trade on for Jenny understands how to fashionch the case of a labourer of 18 who was this most ungrateful of garmente, and sent to guo! for sharing a thin pint yet give to it a certain youthful grace of corn whisky with friend behind a
big party given by a multi-millionaire oil magnate.
Why, he had bis garage fitted up like
the number of women who have failed the Stationery Office is the increase in
in business enterprises.
30 failures, the total for 1924 was 417, Compared with 1993, when there were embracing a larger variety of trades than in the previous returns. Twelve per cent.
a regular baz, with brass railings and of the women debtors had no oceapa
tawilost on the floor. He gave a dinnertions..
at which 600 pints of liquor were
Bil
The trades in which the greatest num
drunk, and to his guests he presented ber of failures among women occurred as souvenirs 300 imitation Bibles and were: 300 cancs each containing a pint of whisky.
of line. One that was rather effective hedge, Mrs. Ferguson thus describes & was carried out in raven blus repe, and showed a front of rosewood crêpe de Chine, tas original touch about it being that, the frout panels of the frock tum. ed back to show that they were lined with the same crêpe de Chine Another model carried out in navy blue, was trimmed with rows and rows of diferent. | coloured buttons which looked curiously like so
many tiddlywinks countera Othor navy suits were worn with warm. looking red lacquer jumpers, sometimes The governor proceeded to state that plain, sometime heavily embroidered in the same millionaire appeared at a foot- gold thread or coloured silks. Rosewooddrunk as a boiled owl and waving his ball match on Thanksgiving Day, was harmonised quite a lot with navy Blue, and, another combination of cane, presumably filled with liquor." colours that Jenny is making much use Mrs. Ferguson also publicly accuses a of in this collection is that of rosewood district judge of drinking boot-leg and turquoise blue. The effect is both whisky a few moments after sentencing soft and youthful.
Drapers
Milliners and dressmakers
Grocers
Clothiers and outfitters Confectioners
52
20 18
: THE BRITISH RATE,
per cent, respectively above the pre- war level.
America's wage rates and wholesale prices, on the other hand, were so and 120 per cent. in 1920 and 129 and 30 per coat, respectively above the pre-war level in 1924.
£30 TO KILL A RAT.
At the sessional meeting of the Roys! Sanitary Institute at Plymouth, Dr. G.
Borthwich, part medical officer of youth, said he had found that by fumigation of vessels with cyanide and cyanogen chloride the cost of killing each rat was about £23, while fumiga- tion by sulphur cezt about £19 per rat.
The total amount of the liabilities. of the women bankrupta came to £441,853, and the assets to £148,157.
There were 27 bankruptcy cases during 1924 in which the liabilities-exceeded
to imprisonmont a batch of boot-leggers. £10,000..
ין
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1926.
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. THE DIRECTORY SOFors the notable evants, ports and cities of the Far East, from Netherlands India to Siberis, in which Europeana reside.
Not only is the Directory as fail and complete in cach case as it can be made, but each Colony, Port or Bottlement is prefaced by a DESCRIP TION, carefully revised each year, the majority of which will sorve as an accurata GUIDES FOR THE TOURIST, giving every detail in connection with the places, their History Topography, etc.
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