THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 16TH, 1924

GRAND OPENING

SALE

AT

PIONEER SILK STORE

CHINA BUILDINGS

QUEEN'S ROAD CENTRAL.

FOR 15 DAYS ONLY

Buick

Buick has more than Twenty Body to choose from."

Styles

No such variety is offered elsewhere, regardless of price.

Buick leads in Body Styles

For demonstration please call at

HONGKONG AND KOWLOON TAXICAB CO., LTD., SHOW-ROOMS:

33 & 35, Des Voeux Road Central.

When better automobiles are built, Buick will build them.

PARIS FASHION NOTES.

NEW WINTER STYLES.

FROM OUR SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT, ISABEL RAMSAY.]

མ ྣ་ས་།

PARIS. November 11th.

The Winter collections are appearing in the salans at the style ervators, and. though the geteral lire of the new gar- ments is the same as those presented in the Autumn openings there is a develop ment, and a refinement is observable in the latest models which makes them signi ficant and particularly interesting. Jus as the Creator tried his hard of Adam before he made Eve, so the style creators try their band on the Autumn fashious and finally evolve from them the ultimate perfection of the Winter models, which are the ones that serve the real Parisienne through the social season that begins with the October races and finishes with the January balls just before the season begins on the Lôté d'Azuṛ.

The straight line, the Directoire and Chinese influener and the use of rich fabriés characterize the winter styles. The sheath is still the type of gown, but the best of the couturiers have found many ways of varying it and of enlarg ing its narrow skirt to something like comfortable proportions. Taking the typical evening-gown as an example, we find many of the most subtle variations The classic inobtrusively introduced. evering-gown remains the beaded sheath. This was true last summer and even last Spring, but, given this general truism, subtle changes of line have crept in. The sheath last spring was sack-shaped. hanging loosely from the shoulders, fit- ting the hips loosely, and reaching. to the ankles. Now the sheath is fitted closely over the bust aid even below it, giving through this fitting the indication of the Empire waist-line without cutting the figure with a demarention. The skirt length is much shorter, from twelve to eighteen inches above the floor and, cot! content with, this. the evaturiers have further liberated the limbs by cutting the hem into deep points. This fashion has proved so revealing that gartery have be come an important article of evening jewelry. This however, seems rather extreme to a number of ladies, so the epeturiers have been forced to recant a little. They have done, this gracefully by introducing an under founce, which, though cut in points like the hem of the skirt, has the points placed so as to fill in the spaces left by the dentilated hem. One, two or three of the founces are often used, thus preserving the modesty of these charming evening-gowns, while at the same time making them comfort- able and decorative for dancing. The colours most frequently used in the even- ing clothea are Sight and delicate.

Fashion's word is that. Black looks poverty-str.cken in the evening," and ac cordingly, everyone wears light colours. Usually these light colours are interpret-

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Always in Season.

ed in crepes, georgette, lined of course, circular front. The fat back is actually crepe de chine, crepe satin, crepe Romain part of a narrow skirt, the circular front and Nicolette; in fact, any of the hand-being superimposed on this, attached the some silk crepes are perfectly the thing length of the side seams, and across at for these evening gowns. The favourite the waistline level in front, and com- trimming continues to be the bead, the pletely covering the narrow front of the sequeir or strass. Strass is the most skin, which is slit to the knees to give! magniâcent, but it was a little overwork freedom in walking or dancing, though ed last winter and so is not as good this the slit, being covered, never appeara year. However, it has its points and The gathered apron tunic is used on a when it is used to express a charming number of gowns, being attached in the design, it is irreproachable. One example ame way, but usually stopping short of is a gown of rose pink crepe satir em the actual skirt hem. The tu border or broidered with brillianta flock of embroidery border finishing these deco- comets is the design. The comets seem rative aprons gives then a smart forward to pursue each other about the robe, with flare. astonishing sweeps of their tails, which

Long tight sleeves or no sleeves at all, are made of graded brilliants really for is the rule in the smart clothes of to-day. all the world like the portraits of comets the idea being to make of the arm a to he found in the Astronomy Looks single long anuroken line which will Arather fascinating design worked out harmonize with the long unbroken lines) in multi-cloured strass depicts fireworks,

with shooting stars of green, and red fire of the gown." The dressiest afternoon gowns have no sleeves, like the evening hall and falling sparks of violet and gowns. A few have an apology for a yellow and blue. It is really very amus-leave in the form of a long scarf wrap- ped closely round and round the army

ing.

One

lore modest, but quite as elegant, are partially covering it but carrying out the pale tinted gowns embroidered in the long line. The majority of gowns, pearl or crystal beads. These often form however, for a nor-dancing tea, ray, or long stripes, meeting the upper poists of for bridge and mab-jong parties, have the destilated skirt. ard dividing the the full-length sleeve which descends on

gure into long panels, which gave height to the hands in a miten effect. and slenderness in effect. Coloural beads

Sack-lines vary considerably, but tone are also used, mostly in crystal.

rule seems invariable-they are never cut particularly charming model was of white low in front. The most extreme of the eren- crepe satin embroidered in ruby coloured ing gowns are deeply cut out in the back beads Another white gown embroidered offen in a V. semetimes in a shape- in coral hus had ar. immense success. and this decolletage can be higher-er

Turning from the evening gowns to lower as the wearer's taste dictaten.“ their accompanying wrap, we End still. Actually, the most modern things to the delicate colours, but in velvets or wear a rather high decolletage, round or metallic cloths and brocades. The classic shaped, except on really full-dress occa- form for the wrap is the narrow, straight sions. The afternoon-gowns have rather cape, with more or less of a collar, which high necks often round, sometimes V is usually of the same raaterial as the shaped-and some of the long-sleeved cape. As these capes are often shirred gowns have high collars which mount to or gathered about the shoulders, it is the cars. These are, in appearance, the logical that the collars should be shirred smartest thing going, but one must be or ruffled about the neck and that is very devoted to fashion, to be willing what they usually are. Poiret features to imprison the neck in a mounting shirring particularly, and several of his collar, which, though never stiff, is none evening wraps show the cord shirring the less a bit constricting after the long- tending from the neck of the enpe down freedom that our necks have enjoyed. to the hip level, while several other de Most women prefer to give the close effect signers make wraps shirred down on to about the rack by wearing their pearls the shoulders. Many of these wraps are tight about the throat, often placing them reversible, being of valvet (either the as high as possible under the chin. We light chiffon velvet of natural silk or the

FOUR STAGES OF DRUNKENEESS.

new panne velvet made with artifcial are still trying to discover how the pearls stay there. Perhaps they are held in silk pile) on one side, and of a lame place, like the planets about the sun, by brocade or a crepe-textured gold cloth centrifugal force. Perhaps a hidden bit on the other. It is potahle that velvet of court-pinster does the trick, or per- seldom appears in the gowns, although it haps the ladies who wear them there are is very frequently used in the wraps. really willing to suffer for beauty and Dressy afternoon gowns usually take endure the sensations of alow strangula. the sheath gown as their point of depar-tion in order to keep the pearls well tare, but a number of them depart from placed it quite a distance. It is is this type of gowa that the-circular cutting of skirta still appears, and to the best advantage. The circular flare is not so marked as it

During the hearing of a case in Ayr was last winter, and consequently mul- tiple godets do not appear, but the flare Sheriff Court the Sheriff said to the ex- is used in reduced form, and goes to amining solicitor," But what is the good add grace to many a figure. Some de- of aslong the witness what state of signers who are particularly devoted to drunkenness the accused was in? Surely the narrow silhouette assure this by maka man is either drunk or he is not ing their circular skirts actually tunics, drunk The solicitor On the con- which entirely cover the skirt beneath tary, my Lord, I would put it to you that there are four clearly defined stages or For example, there are a great many states of drunkenness, which I might des gowns which have the fat back but acribe as the jocuse, the bellicose, the

(Continued on next Column.) lachrymose, and the comatose."

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