THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 21st, 1923,
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PARIS FASHION NOTES.
(FROM OUR SPECIAL-4CURUESPONDENT, ISABEL- RAMSAY.]
PARIS, August 19th. The Autumn tailor-mandes, which the opening week of the showing of the big collections has revealed, are sleek and tight-fitting asid far more inclined to mould the figure than the loose jacket which has been popular during tho Summer months and which is suggestive! more than anything of vigour and free- dom of movement."
The materials I have seen most of are plain surface clothes, reps and similar Fabrics, and a new kind of erspe-jerary that looks as though it will become very popular before the season is much älder.: Velvet will also join the list of materials for Winter.
Braidings and pipings of materials will be used a great deal for prisuming the early Autumn suits; there will also be nach military braid alious, generally in a varnished for, and this wil be laid ou in strips aml crisscrossed in places so that designs that look like a collection of betic ought--neil-crossem - games' result.
For the very firat nip of Autumn. designers have prepared a ennt somewhat longer that reaches to the knees both: front and back; the netual coat is not this: length, but the additional length is sup plied by means of one or more circular flounes laiti on; models that aim rather show a circular at being recentric. flounce that dips to a paint on one sido in front and therefore hangs down auch Eger than the rest of the cont general. these conts are of good hip than three- length. but never moro quarter length.
In
Some of the quarter costumes show a leather belt fitted with one or two wallet- shaped pockets. ene's of these pockets: being provided with divisions in which to store, mibney, piff or powder, Moly nous, particularly has designed a mu ber of chic morning walking estumes with these quaiat additions,
for
The skirt of uat-of-door clothes has not been lengthened to any appreciable degree, and, in fnet, several of the "new" deigners are continuing to make skirts as short as they were three or four years age, when it would bare appeared as hero to war 1 skirt that was not a good four or five inches above the ankle. The length of the ter skirt will vary in the fature according the length of the coat, and the
with the three-quar ler exit, which Autumn and Winter. will call for a longer skirt; whereas shortish hip and losose sac const will be allied to skirts ensiderably
house tried the short shortened. One
Skirt with the three-quarter coat, and the effect was so indieron that, by common consent, all have now recognised the fact that length of cont and length of skirt new two details which must harmonise with each other and for which there can be no hard nul fast rule when ous is consideral apart from the other. Moire silk will be used dot for threece costumes, and an attrative new material known as crepe jer. y will figure in the guise of coat frecks and long Cap
Some of the carlier
minles T have just seen are trimmed with Dipinge of fur (they are too narrow to b
into
ho
bands) which are enreef and formed spipral motifs of dregation on the coat of costuin; tiny pipings of fur are for finishing off the (also used as a means.
seams of
a coat or skirt, or, again, to de corate the edge of a short coat where it grips the hips,
Sleeves in the Autumn will be much more moderate in the matter of ent and volume, and one revival at lenst will be that of the |old-fashioned čvat sleeves
be
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A favourite model for collars
that is made of material in n searf shaps, which closes up round the wek and is trimmed with bauds of fur or strips of embroidery. Another variation of the scarf collar that bids fair to become popular as a means of brightening up an Autumn frock or co- tume is the scief collar with long ends. that
at bang like stoles and enn vither be left to hang down in front or so be thrown back Jerom the shoulders of the wearer,
The rockade that has taken possession of Paris like a fever for the past few mouths is slowly giving way to the hand- made motif as a bent of trimming for bats. The idea of ribbon still
prevails. but, instead of being pleated up inte different types of exckade, it is pleated and gathered anh rucked and fulled and
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The Priner of Wales, in a message to the British Empire Exhibition, of which We must unite
of Parisian milliners have been capable of he is president, says: devising. As Sutumer fades away and Autumn brings in its wake more stail in making the British Empire Exhibition moods and tnore subdued fnsbions, hats a succes worthy of our race. I shall hope will be trimmed almost exclusively with a to see many friends from the Dominions ribbon metif of some sort, anil the enckade and Colonies at Wembley Park in 1924. will have' definitely become whim of the
past.
The Autumn shinpe will continue to be seente of this ensemble" theary, and, ali small, although a materatesized picture
her hats for the coining son have been
or to
hat
will be ranched, the brim of which will be bowed over or "elched" slightly dress stame, and with no other, Al mail expressly to be wore with a certain Velours will not be narticularly
popular aya material: its place heing taken by the street bats are black or of some colour, velvet and thick fluffy felts. For infance, to be worn, and the majority are finished nee, according to the suit with which they are tognes made of thick velvet ribbon thick atin ribbon will be one of the with so little trimming that it is hardly features in the matter of shape and worthy of mention. Those to be worn with dresses silk or brcende have some bright material. These toques will be morn fur
of ban than anything in shape, and they will colour introduend into them. One quaint mode. I saw was high of crown and darzow side,f him, like a man's top but, and it was trimmed with a bunch of cack feathers
be trimmed with two smart sitt.
bow that will stand out on the
or else, for those who prefer a less turba lent type of "Inmming, they will be trim stuck me in front,
ined with two extra long loops that will The cloche bat will be worn during Au- Jung down over the shoulder of the wear-tumn, but it will be slightly larger than er. This type of hat will be worn a great deal with, the veryday tailor-made model. for preference when this is not trimmed with fur.
For
the shape that has bees to enrmously popular during the Spring and Summer, The brim will be wider but the remain about the same.
mers will
mean, menti.
Ostrich fentberk, straight and glycin- The fashionable colours will be brown e, or a bunch of loosely curled tips (two and hinck, and, by brows, I
three are placed on the right side of ally the whole gamut of Autumu tinta the crown of the cloche and picture types Trimming will remain about the same, in of hat.
that it will be inclined to be flat than Poiret is doing his bet to bring back otherwise, and there will be hardly any of into favour a kind of Mandarin hat that it to speak of. The quantity of material is trimmed with a long tamel of ostrich put into dresses will be compensated for feathering.
Another model verging on the by the scarcity of material "lavished on centric is the large Marquis, showing a millinery. ̈· Srim-bound with ribbon and turned back on two sides
most noticeable" features of of the nil the Autumn collections I have visited so far in the tendency on the part of designers to creata hats to match the frock with which they are intended to be worn Nicole Groult has, always been a great (Continued at foot of text colum.)
A smart little hat that is being worn In quantities at every sea-side resort in Franco just now is a little fit on hai made of crochetted thenille which has a quaint attori worked into its mesh. Channel launched it, and she is making it in bright and light colours with the pattern in. darker shades to tone worked round the crown,
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