THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 15TH, 1922.
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MACHINERY, DEPARTMENT..
PARIS FASHION NOTES,
[PROM OUR SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT,
ISABEL HAMSAY.]
PARIS, October 10th. Paris-that is, the Paris lying between the Champs Elyseos, the Rue Royale and the Rue de la Paix-is in a state of fever just now. The first tang of Winter has arrived and, with it, the first "collections" of models at the big conturiers to show what Parisiennes, and women in other lands who follow their example, will wrap themselves in during the chilly season.
One of the Erst to show his beautiful wares to the buyers and others, was Moly neux, a feat. le accomplished in the presence of several hundred members of the elite of Paris, and with the aid of soft music and a bevy of beautiful mannequins headed by the young godess Hebe, reputed to be the most beautiful roannequin in the world. There were a hundred and eighteen models in all, including worcing dresses, coats. skirts and three-piece suits, afternoon gowns, tee gowns, evening gowns, travell. ing coats. afternoon coats (as a French- woman rarely goes out without covering up her visiting or reception coat with a light coat or rape) evening, wraps and fur couta-the latter costly and dazzling enough to upset the equilibrium even of a nelle riche
The two most important features to chronicle in this display are the tendency. towards shorter skirts and the use of dyeil. fur. All those who learut with regret that the days of untrammelled skirt liberty were to be a thing of the past may- now rejoice, because judging by what I sch Molyneux, the reign of terror of long skirts and trains is not going to last, and no later than this "coming Wintr we shall see women going about again in skirts at least to, if not aboye, the ankle. The fact that Molyneux showed so many short or shortish akirts in this collection is a sufficient guarantee of this, because Molyneux is a couturier whose opinion and will count in such matters. Therefore, mesdames, you can all take your skirts that you" lengthened or had designed long last season, and set to work shortening the hem by as many inches as you like, cor fident in the knowledge that all Paris will be doing likewise within the next Lew months.
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ADVERTISEMENTS
In the coals and skirts and morning. dresses, Molyneux showed a preference for red, brown or black and white combinations. One model was in a "terrific " red shade, and the coat was made to flare out from the waist and with a beetle-shaped back, like the family heirloom jackets that County Cousins generally don when they come to town on a visit. This was, however, an ex- ception to the general rule, as nearly every coat-and-skirt model showed a jacket that was perfectly straight and caught in, below the waist (though not nearly so low as hitherto) by a simple belt made of the same material as the suit. Coats and short jackets have been cut on fairly straight. lines for some time; therefore, there is not much change in these new models, except that the line is, if anything, much straigh ter and they are far less wide, resembling very much the smart little eac coat of by gone days, with the difference always As well as this that a belt is added. straight line, Molyneux showed a decided liking for the Russian style fastening high up round the throat and down the left side. Stare of the most attractive models were Lible for Chicos, on Top-Boor of 6, TO LET.- Spacious FRONT ROOMS, made in this way of black cloth trimmed Queen's Road Contral. Apply to GANDE, PRICE
[268 with bands, buttons and motifs of ermine & Co., Lrn. fur. The severity of the style and the contrast of the white against the black made these quite startlingly effective. SALE-7/9POWERPLUS INDIAN, Nearly always, they were worn with a close-Fectrically Equipped, about 1.950 miles fitting toque with a Russian peak effect in front, and trimmed with bands of for to match the dress.
Of materials there was no lack. As well as the usual serges, there were celours de
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Letters are lying at this Office for
Bozee QY, RF RU, KW, TH, TU
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perfect running order, apare plugs, valve, tyre, tabes, sprockets, oit, and Aviation spirit, $650. Apply Box V1 fo Daily Press Office. [267.........
"MIZADO." Barker Road, near the Tram Station. Apply to DINISON, RAM & G1338. [286 November 14th, 1922,
laine, broadcloth, ordinary cloth and tweed;OR SALE or TO LET - Furnished trellaine, pikaine, poplarge, velours lida, velveteen and cheviotte de laine, amongst the new fancy materials, and leather and molerkin fur amongst the eccentricities of the afternoon's display. The leather coat and skirt was trimmed with bards of pony skin, and the moleskin model showed & skirt of fur with a cape-coat effect in cloth, trimmed with bands of moleskin and lined with grean. A small green hat trimmed with moleskin completed the original effect,
An effective three piece suit also designed
no
BE LET-GODOWN-Spacious Two storied Godown, situated on, the Praya near Bowrington, Canal and containing appro
imately 5,000 square feet on each floor. To be Let to the end of the year-Apply %, office o
193 this paper.
on original lines, was in black velveteen far from being beautiful, but, as there is a trimmed with strips of red leather; the category of women who inevitably profer dress worn under the coat had red smart and original ideas to simple and Georgette sleeves, and a small red leather aesthetic ones, there is a chance that this hat was added to match. With the new fad will catch on and become the rage exception of the collection of black and of the season. White monkey fur is the white effects and the models where red was chief, offender in this matter; because it the dominant acte, the choice of colours fell lends its long, lank strands so well to the on browns (golden rather than nigger) art of the dyer. When monkey fur is be- beige, biscuit and pain brulé shades; there yond the purse of the would-be elegante, were also one or two suits in, cream, conturiers will come to her aid with white designed for skating wear. These were goat's hair, treated so as to imitate monkey extremely effective, but hardly practicable, and dyed in the same way Another except in a country where dust is non-medium that is used and gives the impres existant.
sion of a well-conditioned poodle dog cur The skirts of all these models were led round the neck of the wearer, is exactly infinitely shorter than those of last season. Tike the white, fluffy touterial that used Not only is Molyneux favouring the old to figure sa n hearth-rug and be the ankle-length, but, in some instances, he is pride of suburban drawing coume some showing his belief in a return to skirts years back. Now, it is being woven in a above this "plimsol-mark" of fashion. And finer meth and with a finer strand, and, the most important detail of this return once having passed through the hands of to a line we had been told was doomed to the dyer, is being used to trim the latest disappear, is that, not only is he making Parisian models. At present, dyers are his tailor-mades and morning dresses with confining their imagination to the launch- shorter skirts, but he is fashioning his ing of one ebade only but this certainly overing gowns in the same way. Nearly makes up for a lack of diversity by being all the models of this Winter collection an intense grass green. The designer, also, have skirts that are distinctly shorter than is confining his imagination to the extent those worn last Winter, and there were of using this dyed for only in the form of even one or two models with quite short collar and cuffe to his coate, and evening. skirts and no train.
But, as everything is supposed to There are no startlingly new ideas for come to him that waits, it is no doubt likely trimming, with the exception, of course, that feathers as well as fur will BOOL dyed of the dyed fur that I mentioned at the make their appearance a beginning of my letter. This ia cer-in every shade known, to the dyer tainly startling enough-to-please the most Next week, I shall write in detail of the ardent disciple of modern art. It is evening, gowns, cloaks and wraps that
(Oontinued as foot of next column.) figured in this collection
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