THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 6TE, 1992,
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PARIS FASHION NOTES.
[FROM OUR SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT,
ISABEL RAMSAZ.] . '.
PARTE, July 31st. There is every evidence that the waist line is going to be higher next season. One of the latest and most significant signs of this is the high "belt. So many of the dresses one sees now have a deep belt which begins, it is true, way down below the normal waist line, but finishes so high up that the lasting affect is of the waist back üt its old position once more. This is certainly only the first step; the mert will be to do away with the pretext of the deep belt and boldly restore the waist-line to its normal place. Another indication je to be seen on 'short conts and the long ers which a topsy-turvey Summer has compelled women to wear at a time of the year when they should be going about in organdies and crepes. This is the grudnal disappearance of the girdle and the substitution in its place of a belt. As this is always more or less wide, the | space Between the belt and the waist-line is léssoned considerably and the impression of a lowered waist linens well.
Dresses, especially those destined "far"} evening weir. Show a greater tendency to blouse than ever, both buck and front, and this effect of fullness, is rather ettkateed by the wide msh which is twisted round thi waist juist below its normal line and ex tended almost a quarter of a part down. wards, ending in long ends on the side or at the back.
Panels still hold sway, but the general effect of evening gowns is to be less "Patrugh bhan they have been für some time. A to the line, it still remains long and clinging, and the aim of every Parisienne, in con- sequence, is still to make or keep her fare as much like a strip of spilunetti cas pussible.
The length is decidedly nearer than the ankles. Some of the ultra-modern designers continue to favour the short-skirtel pown. hut those who follow along the line of least resistance are all making their gowns with long skirts, and the majority of them are adling long trains as well. They even threaten to bring back the long, trained skirt for wear in the street, but whether women will submit to this tyranny or not rehins to be seen. It seems impus- sible to believe that the same wonen who have revelled so whole-heartedly and for so long in the grace and freedom of short skirts could tolerate a return to the clinging babbles of long ones; but women are strange beings and, submit to strange conditions in life, so it is quite possible they will follow sheep-like in the ath their desigters mark out for then, and let down their skirts to trail in this Winter's and as willingly as they took them up years ago. They have already olayed admirably to the extent of adding on hindering trains to their evening gowns, and nearly all brides of the moment walk to and from the altar with several yards of white satin trailing after them.
Another abomination which designers are (doing their best to bring back into favour
is the crinoline. To do this they are making) use of tulle and lace evening gowns, making them extremely full and adding undermenth a circular wire frame, which wobbles with every movement of the wearer. "So far, they bare not dared place this frame lower than the hips, so that the impression still remains of a period frock of the time of Louis XIII. or thereabouts, but the inten- tion is clear, nevertheless, for all the machiavellian cunning of the Rug Kings: There were even one or two lace frucks mounted on a frame in this way, worn ut Longchamp during the recent racing Carnival, but most people thought or hope that they were merely examples of toilettes which come under the heading of eccentriciries, which appear for a single day and are then forgotten and which no úne takes seriously. It is the up- pearance of so many similar models at smart weldings, balls and social functions with which the Paris season closed that has caused them to be regarded as serious features of fashion and items to be. Treckoned with when choosing or planning. one's own gown. It was too inuch to expect that designers would remain con- tent with the graceful line that has held swag, despite their efforts, for so long. Its simplicity was too exasperating, and gave them too little scope for the play of their imagination. Now, that. they have at last succeeded in break- ing the spell and compelling women to clad themselves in garments having other nex, there is no knowing to what extent they will run riot and what eccentric, unlovely lines they will impose on their followers. "Be prepared for the worst is a warning they might well issue. to their fair clientèle." Whatever the future holds in store for us in this respect, the present is still so full of beautiful and charming things, that such pessimism müst be condemned as ungracious. Long, grace. ful lines are still tote in evidence that any others, and flowing draperies than stif unnaturalcurves and pleats. Soft materials such as the hundred and one different types of silk crepe, satin, tulle and lace are utilised to fashion these graceful creations. There
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219
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quite exposed; this brings the line rather a stitch or a strap, leaving the shoulder-tip high up in front, as a ruke to the base of the neck, but as it permits of all the shoul-
is very little chungel about the except der line being exposed, and this very often that one with sleeves would seem to be the prettiest line a woman bas, she does as incongruous as a sporta akirt with a not lose thereby.
train. The sleeveless evening gown begin
The simple line and the simple style of
11
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USUAL PRICES.. BOOKING AT THE THEATRE,
REMOVAL NOTICE.
.HAVE REMOVED TO
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(Between Our Former Premises and Blue Bird's)
On display New Stock of
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by being optional; it has now reached the the straight, draped gown permits the use point whers it is absolutely necessity; of rich fabrics which would be lurdly pos- As a matter of fact, this habit has spread sible on gowns of a more elaborate cut and to such an extent that even gowns for design. One of these is silver land. No- wear on "dressy" occasions are leveless also, and they are made of such rich and thing more dazzling and becoming can flimsy materials that there is practically material, with ropes of pearls as a finish or be imagined than a plain gown in this nothing to distinguish them from gowns for wear only in the evening and they a cluster of soft-tinted flowers at the waist could be made to serve equally well on both to add a discreet note of colour. For this occasions. The décolleté more favoured reason, women who are conscious of their than any other just now is that which is Personality in dress will eling to straight, formed by taking the two perfectly simple lines as long as they can-but it is more than likely that designers will win in straight tops of
* Corsigo 2nd
OIL-TIKED="ITS BOAT "1200"„BUIL* XY WAL-BALLBY, 4 00, JED, untching them on the "shoulder with the end and that a reign of crinolice and
trailing skirt terror awaits the woman who Boller Makers, Founders and Constructional Engineers and Repairers (Continued at foot of next column.). follows the fashion at any price.