THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, WEDNESDAY, JULY 19rя, 1989,
NAPIER JOHNSTONE'S
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PARIS FASHION NOTES. [rzox OER SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT, HANSI BANJAY.?
PARIS, June-12th. The silhouette rentinues so persistentis to remain simple and unchanged that one wonders how it is the Paris lunatic asy- lams are not illed to overflowing with designers who have been driven distracted trying to create now models. Onn "chemise" frock is as much like another in cut as are two stockings; one draped gown "(seeing the extreme simplicity of modern draperies) as much like another as a couple of pens in a pod; and yet, because Parisiennes, are perhaps more conscions of their individuality than any other women, they demand that every дет model created shall be entirely different from the millions al ready launched, and every line, no matter bew simple, have in it that which will perafit them to express their own pur- ticular personality. And because Parisian designers, apparatly, are blessed with in- exhaustible imaginations, they perform this daily miracle.
Seeing that the line remains unchanged and unchangeable, one of the first things they did was to create new materials and
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the second to invent a host of new la A. G. DA ROCHA
25
for trimming and decorating frocks and giving them, by his means, a alightly differ ent line and a slightly different character. The first of these stratagems has been to lacach a bewildering mass of new materials on the market; There are so many of these that it would be hopeless to try to remember thera all, especially as most of them live only, a few short months, at the end of which time they are ousted by some fresh, creation. is mixed with wool ar silk or linen, and Cotten these are treated and tarned and arranged in every conceivable way in the general effort to produce something entirely new. Of these new materials the most popular are the hundred and one light crepes that have been launched within the last year or so. Every day there appears a new crepe with a new name, but there is very little, after ally! to distinguish it from its predecessors, and they all are alike" inasmuch they are all essentially light in texture and semi-trazsparent. Then there are a host of heavier materials which are turned over to the tailor, for the confectioning of coats and skirts, cloaks and capes. Zeman, cloquella and piquelaine are amongst the most favoured of these. As well as creat ing new materials, manufacturers have taken all the old ones and treated them in such a way that there are now innumerable types of satine, brocades, moira, serges, garbardines, veiles, organdies and such familiar materials. With the return of a Summer sum have coma, too, the hundred" and one foulards that Parisiennes are so fond of for simple morning dresses, Nary blue, as usual, takes pride of place among those, and the preference this year seems to be for white stripes and designs rather than colours. Made quite plainly and trimmed with dainty lace, net or organdins touches, there is certainly nothing that looks fresher or more youthful.
"Nicole Groult, who is always to the fore with novel ideas in any emergency, has succeeded in creating a line which is sufficiently like the existing straight line. not to be an innovation and yet a new line for all that. This consists in designing quite plain, long sleeveless coats and plac ing them over a plain dress in some bright shade, and allowing the front panels of the coat to open to show this under-dress and the long sleeves to appear through the armholes of the coat. A belt with a de- corative buckle draws the coat into a fairly low waist-line. Such an idea sounds simple and not extravagantly novel, but when one lives in = Paris peopled with woman garbed either chemise" frocks or full, suck-like, blousing jackets bunched into the waist, the sight of such unnsual lines comes as a shock, The "Nain Jawe," a model of this type, was in black cloth opening over an under-dress of bright canary yellow; the coat was fiuished with pipings of yellow, and a broad belt fastened with a brilliant steel buckle in front. The same idea had been carried out in blue and orange shades, and, for purely Summer wear, the same idea had been cleverly interpreted in blue linen and pink floral cretonne, the design of the latter material being picked out with a pink silk chain stitch. Hats made of the same materials were designed to be worn with each of these models,
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same. figured material as the bodice. At other times she is an amusing little, sleeveless jacket, caught in with a belt and with two shallow pockets in front.
This designer has also carried out this idea in dresses made of a lighter fabric, but has modified the detail of the long, straight coat effect by making the bodice part fit in alightly to the figure. In some of these
As a finish, this designer sbows a pen models, too, there were long, very wide chant for bright-lored linings and beat sleeves in place of the sleeveless effect with pipings to match the lining.or embroidery. the alcoves of the under dress showing trimmed to match dress or coat. Her even of a dress Hats are always, made and through. A charming example, "Soeur Apne was in black crepe Marocain eming toilettes are nearly all of the "period" broidered in a medley of light shades, the type of bress and betray an influence dating whole of the wide, full skirt part and the back to the days of one of the Lopis, others, equally long, wide sleeves were lined with again, have something Spanish or Oriental crepe de Chine in the new mauve shade about them, which proves how complacent known as "violine," and the skirt part Dame Fashion is in her present need, when oponed over an under-dress of crepe de she permits such departures from her Chine in the same shade. "Narghile stanight-line, draped type of frocks.“ was also in black, crepe Maroccain, pro- are elsewhere. The canotier type is pre Hats, Chez Grouit, are smaller than they fasely decorated with white soutache and contrasted with a lining in
ferred to most others, and the Tonkinese pale coral pink crepe de Chine. Aamart shapes are also smaller here than those one cantier hat in black crepe Marcccain, fin- sees as rule. An idea Madame Groult iahod with white soutache and a piping of Most of her big hate have long strings at makes a great deal of is that of strings. coral pink, completed the harmonious note of this toilette." Paienne" was a mixture tached to them and thase either tie under the chin of are allowed to stream down and Another notion Nicole Groult seems very. add an extra note of trimming to the list.
of black crape Maroccain and Paiseley.
fond of is the three-piece costume, but a
three-piece costume executed in an entirely
original way, he takes a plain material,
allies it to a plain, loose-fitting bodice in BASEBALL GAME, SATURDAY,
figured material made with a turned-back
collar and no sleeves to speak of, and then
adds a short hulging, coat-cape, effect made
of the same material as the skirt part of the dress and trimmed with scraps of the (Vontinued on next column:)
HAPPY VALLEY.
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
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7 parts.
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EILEEN SEDGWICK la "TERROR TRAIL.” Episodes, 1 & 12.
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