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PARIS, November 14th. Nothing is more marked than the atti tude adopted by the theatres with regard to the present craze for black; they nim-
Are you one of the thousands suffering with ply ignore it. This is most significaat, as the leading actresses in Paria are eczema, itch, obstinate sores, ringworm, ulare always dressed by the leading designers or other painful disfiguring thin-disease P. "If of Paris, and what one sees worn by, you cannot have tried Zam-Bak, the world. renowned discovery that has revolutionized women on the stage is an indication of treatment of skin-sores and desk wounds. what designers wish to see worn by
Zam Buk is precions herbal balm of er. women off it. The fact that a black dress tradinary purity and refinement, and it is as rare a sight on the stage as healing and disease dispelling powers are amaz- coloured one is off, proves very decisively ing Wherever applied, Zam-Buk speedly that designers are determined to combat soothes the fiary itching irritation and penetrates the prevailing preference for black by into the underlying issues where it extermin-
ates the germs of skin-disease. every means in their power.
In a previous letter, I referred to the collection of coloured toilettes wine, Paquin, Clé, Lucie Hamar and others prepared for the production of Maurice Donnay's charming comedy "Amante" at the Gymnase. Since then, I have been to several other First Nights (Paris is inundated with them just at present after the long spell of Summer idleness) and was able to gather further impressions of the mode ahead, as indicated by the toilettes displayed.
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Vogue The review Michel caused a sensation even for Paris. the costumes, designed and executed by Paul Poiret, being even more splendid than bus been seen for many a long day in the Gay Capital. Unfortunately, as documents of future fashion, they were not of much avail, seeing the majority of them were fares or characteristic in type, bar such as they were, they were objects, af pure asthetic delight. The Commère, without which no French ro view could very well manage, wears a very beautiful evening gown that is a mixture of black velvet and green satin, the satin being that strange mixture of blue and green that all Paris knows now by the name of "Poiret green." Over a simple slip of this were draped two gathered side panels, of black velvet, the ends of which were finished with bands of black fox, bands of jet drawn round the waist to form, girdle effect," and bands across the shoulders and looping the top part of the arms were the finish- ing touches to this creation, worn with grace and distinction gy Melle Blanche Bittier.
For the new piece at the Capacines, one of the smallest and most clegagant of Paris theatres, Lucien Lelong prepared a dazzling collection of toilettes, and here, as elsewhere, not one black one wie. included in the collection. This designer appears to be very fond of silver. bugles. La trimming, for amongst the creations of his worn by Melle Gaby Morlay in this review there is a charming négligé in silver tissue embroidered with silver tubes and edged" with banda of monkey
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crêpe Romain, embroidered in the same medium In the last act, Melle Morlay wears a coat-frock in raven blue velvet, showing touches of carmine embroidery, and motifs of Venetian point lace finish ing the cuffs and collar. Another original coat-frock effect is carried out in grey velours de laine, three bands of the same material, cut into tiny strips so as to imitate fur, finishing the wide, bell sleeves; the same, bands being placed round the hipe just gelow the waist; the hem of the skirt and the high, Russian collar are finished with a single band, somewhat deeper than those figuring in the series of three. I might mention, Also, a quaint pyjama suit worn by Melle Morlay, showing a coat in jade green velvet finished with deep bands of silver braid; and pants in black satin.
For Melle Marcelle Monthil, who takes part in the same piece, Lelong designed a royal blue velvet coat frock, encrusted with motifs worked in silver, the front opening over a panel of silver grey woollen material; and a tailored jacket, in à mixture of red and steel duvetyn lined with Coney seal and worn with a black chiffon velvet skirt.
These tailored jackets, lined with fur or of fur lined with aalin or brocade, are much worn just now when the tempera ture is not quite cold enough to excuse the donning of heavy fur coats. Most of them are in seal, opossum or squirrel, with a lesser quantity of beautiful models in- ermine and sable; they are made very full and sloppy" in shape, with sleeves that appear to have been added as a pare after thought, and a roll collar that can be buttoned up close to the neck if necessary; they are particularly bandy as they can be worn with a skirt and smart casaquin or else with a one-piche frock in serge or heavy crêpe
Writing of crêpe reminds me of a de lightful half-season coat Madazue Cassive
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"PRINCESS MARY.
BUSH OF CONGRATULATIONS..
A London telegram says, it is stated that Princess Mary will be married early in 1022. Congratulatory telegrama "pour- ed into Buckingham Palace upon the announcement of the betrothal
The following communications have passed between the King Emperor and the Viceroy
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From the, Viceroy:
On behalf of India, I beg very respectfully to offer heartiest congratu lations to Your Majesties and to Her Royal Highness Princess Mary upon her betrothal to Viscount Lascelles and to exprese an earnest wish that they may, long enjoy every happiness." From His Majesty the King-Emperor: The Queen. and I are greatly touch-
wears in the new piece at the Marignyed by the kind message of congratula
theatre. It is long and straight in line, with the suggestion of fulness drawn in at the hips, where the front cross-over. fastening finishes, with a big mother-of- pearl button; inside, it is lined with black satin, but the original note in i all is a deep collar of chinchilla, and wide, bell sleeves slit five or six inches on the inside of the arm so as to droop back and reveal a deep band. of the same fur lining the inside instead of the out side of the cuffed
tions on the betrothal of our dear daughter sent by you in the name of the people of India. Please express to them on behalf of ourselves and Princess Mary our Warm thanks and assure them of the pleasure with which we have received their good wishes at this happy mozient."
When it is a question of hats, designers are not quite so refractory towards the ostrich plume the fringe of which, caE prevailing, inflacace of black, perhaps cades over the back brim and reaches to because they realise how difficult it would the waist, the whole suggesting a hand be to persuade women to give up wear some cape of shimmering white chenille ing a shade which, above all others, is Mme. Laparceria also wears a most be becoming and economical for head-wear. coming head-dress in the first act, com- Black, therefore, remains in triumph on posed of three immense white plumes the stage as well as of it, and with these, mounted in the form of the Prince of with dresses, planes and jet are the Wales fouthers design, plus one extra chief mediums employed for trimming. long one that comes from the back and With Lewis, the celebrated Buc, Boyale wizard, coils over her shoulder in front. evidently favours the former, judging by this aho wears an evening frock of alter creations of his to be seen wherever smurt nate panels of black brocade and silver frocking is essential to the success of tissue, play Madame Cassive wears a droop hat
Apart from these three models I have in black velvet trimmed with an ostrich seen nothing extra startling, the general plume that is more like a row of deep impression being that modistes are hold fringe hanging over the back at the hating back their most cherished creations Corn, Laparceria, in the revival of "Zaza" for the actual winter showing. In the at the Benaissance theatre, wears in the meantime, tight fitting little turban. final/at a black velvet Gainsborough shapes for morning or travelling wear hat mounted with an enorm hit and wide brimmed napoleonic shapes for
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