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(Continued from page 5) embroiderers. They are much considered by the Chiness for their knowledge of medicine, but their vengeance is feared, and more so, being feudal, is earned down from father to gon through many generations,
The women's costume is much prettier and quite picturesque. They wear, multi- coloured, embroidered opper garments and short skirts, with innumerable silver and other ornaments in profusion, which jingle as they move. Through the care haug very large silver rings, and round the neck are strung necklaces of beads, coins and other charms, whilst a bright blue sash is wound round the waist, But most peculiar of all is their striking headgear. It consists of a three cornered kite-like arrangement, covered with dark silk the two cornera projecting at the sides give them the appearance of horns at a distance. This is firmly attached to a skullcap, which fits the head closely and is tied tightly to the hair, and they are said to take them off only when they go to bed. Bown to each corner are strings of beads and coins. Round the calves of the legs they wind a blue cloth in the form of pulties. The shoes are large well-made and beautifully embroidered. They make all their clothes themselves, and although many attempts have been made to pur. chase their strange garments not even the Chinese have ever been able to obtain any of them. They possess some very hine herds of cattle, which the women usually mind as they graze on the mountain side. A very peculiar dialect is spoken by them, but they have no written language.
A CORNER OF HUNAN.
Uncommon.
region was over-run with bandita and robbers, but they have recently been very severely handled by the Hunanese troops, a company of whom we found stationed at every stage between Hong Kiang and which the Kweichow frontier. The river
cargo- is navigable to the smaller type boat up to Chen Yuan In all the year round, is, however, infested with pirates, and is now very seldom used by travellers on this account. Besides, owing to its tortuous, winding course, twice the time is occupied on the up journey, ne by road, which is more direct,
On entering weichow one is forcibly. brought to notice two outstanding features the wild, barren, mountainous nature of the country, and the extreme poverty ut its inhabitants. One cannot help but wonder why the Chiness applied so beautiful a name to such a region a
weichow it is most probably another result of the topsy-turvydom of the Orient, and one must look on the other side, as it were, before one arrives at the Western meaning. Kweichow being interpreted means precious tract or region--but a more harren, unproductive country could scarcely be found anywhere elec in China outside the Deserts of Mongolia or Binkiang. According to the Chinese proverb seven-tenths of it are mountainous, and it certainly has the appearance of a sea of mountains. These mountains, although rising from a table land, are however, less elevated than those of Yunnan The climate is moister, and more unhealthy on account of this marked mountainous structure. Moisture and dense fogs prevail throughout the whole province, and out of the whole five winter months scarcely twenty-five fino days can be found, and the soil is the most unproductive that can be found in any part of China. No wonder poverty, misery and wretchedness abound everywhere!
TOWARDS KWRIYANG,
About twelve days are occupied in the journey from the Hunan border to the capital, and I found Kweichow's reputa- tion for scarcity of fine weather to be well maintained, for out of those twelve daya only the last two before reaching. Kweiyang were fine. Every other day it was either drizzling, raining or snowing; dense fogs prevailing on the mountain tops, such that one could scarcely see ten yards ahead, with a keenly-bitter wind bloying over the mountains accompanied by a Ene sleet, that was almost impos
In the sible to face, made travelling most difficult and very unpleasant. evening it often clears up, and the sky sometimes becomes clear and starlit, and one makes sure that it will be fine on the morrow, but morning after morning the same climatic conditions prevail. Is this a land where the sun never shines one asks oneself.
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After crossing the border, the road follows a winding course through that extreme south-western section of Hunan that is bounded on the south by Kwangsi and on the west by Kweichow. It is in this mountainous part of the provinco that the three large rivers, and their numerous tributaries, that make Hunan one of the most well-watered provinces of China, have their sources, all of which ultimately empty themselves into the Tung Ting Lake in the Great Hupeh Plain. After one leaves the Yaoze country, the road continues through a serica of well-watered valleys, sheltering innumerable villages, bounded by undulat ing hills covered with long course grass cultivated bere and there with patches or plantations of resin and oil-nut trees which seem to be quite an important feature of this region. One continually meets numbers of coolies carrying baskets of these oilnuts--the natives in almost every village being engaged in the crush ing of the oil, which eeems to be their THE HOAD AND THE MULE CARAVANS, E chief and only industry. The only other The road, although the main one, is in oropa cultivated being rice and turnips, a condition that can only be described. which latter seem to be the winter crop. as wretched in the extreme. It consists of large blocks of limestone, worn smooth These turnips grow to a very large size and for the most part broken up by the both white and red skinned and form the staple diet of the people. Other than hoofs of thousands of mules and ponies rico very few cereals are grown in this that have for years been travelling two and fro, and the pen and the imagina- regionie wooden flon fail to picture what a veritable to-when The houses are well-built
sbeer drop structures, and one sees very few brick or nightmare travelling is reduced
of four or five feet where some mountain stone buildings, except an occasional fit rains. Sometimes there is
The temple or pagode here and there. people are not so ragged and there is no stream has washed away the under soil; that air of extreme poverty that is so then again where the stones have all been evident everywhere in Kwelchow, washed in a heap, interspersed with Architectural places where the mule sinks in soft mud The most features of this part of Hunan are the up to his middle, and how these poor innumerable very fine bridges that span animals extricate themselves with their the numerous streams one is continually charges without breaking their lege is crossing every day. The supports are of wonderful to contemplate. The road is gigantic blocks of granite, but the bridges never repaired, but still the struggling themselves are constructed entirely of mules come and go, year in and year out, wood, with innumerable gables, and until they finally drop by the wayside to beautifully carved wooden cornices that be abandoned to wretched half-starved usually ornament temple and ancestral dogs and wolves. Many a skeleton one. halls. Each end is covered with white passes by the wayside of a caravan route. plaster, on which are painted very pretty When a caravan halts for the mid-day pictures and scenes, studded with numrest, and the packs are taken off, while berless plaster josses, birds, animals, etc. the mules grase for an hour or as on the In fact, as I afterwards found out, they hillsides, such a sight of backs covered are mostly called Bridge Temples, and in with large sores where the packs chafe the centre of the larger ones a couple of presents itself that would make the S.P.C.A weep tears of horror; but except rooms are usually built in one side where for a little twitching and swishing of the it were, by the black outlook that is before a monk resides, He generally has stall and has displayed for sale all kinds tail when the pack is put on again and them. It ie all very well to say they can of joss sticks, josa paper, candles and the never-ending journey continued, no grow cereais. Can they 7 In the first These notice seems to be taken of it, except in place, it is quite well-known that the poppy will grow almost anywhere," on any other religious paraphernalia. bridges also serve as rests and shelters severe casts, when the matoo rubs in for travellers and carrying coolies, little oil. Of what avail? There are no goil, or mountain-side, and the soil of wooden benches being let in on either side. Homes of Rest for worn-out mules and Kweichow was specially adapted to it, for I found the natives very friendly every ponies in this part of the world; only this reason, and of all the area that used where, and they treat one with great death brings them their well-earned rest. to be under poppy cultivation, cereals respect, but the majority had never scen And the mafoos who walk these weary would barely grow on one-tenth of it a foreigner before and I was consequently miles day after day, year in and year The question resolves itself therefore into an object of much speculation and out, up and down slippery mountain-what will become of the nine-tenths of sides, through rain, snow, and drizzle the population who have hitherto been fording swollen mountain streams, tramp living on that nine-tenths' area under curiosity
ing their twenty to thirty miles a day, poppy cultivation now that that area has over wretched road? One marvels at become barren and unproductive again? their stamfon and endurance, and the This is the very serious problem with bareness of their lives. The trennons which the people of this province are life advocated by Roosevelt pales beside
alternative is fairly obvious. The present that of a anfoo on the tablelands of suddenly called upon to solve. The weichow and Yunnan distress amongst this once opium growing population is assuming such proportious, that it is gradually drawing it to brigandage and lawlessness, and, no relief being forthcoming, is plunging thousands into starvation and misery.
TOWNS EN ROUTE,
..
Two days journey from the Kwangsi border is situated the large walled city of Wu Kiang Chow, built in the centre of a well-cultivated plain watered by the large river that drains Contral Hunan This, being the only city of any size in this section of Hunan, is the centre of a thickly populated district, and is Chen Yusn Fu, there days from garrisoned by, hve hundred modern troopa Hunen border, is the only town of any After leaving Wu Kiang, Chow one travelstance in the western part of Kwel for five days through a wild, barren chow. It being the
crossing three
TOWNS, PEOPLE, CUSTOMS ETC.
navigation on the Fincipal terminus of
River. In the
79.3
The Best Phok-me-no. 12 The best Toul 1 The best Digertive, AGENTS:
MacEwen, French & Co.,
mountainous mountains, the scene, former prosperous days of the opium IN THE CAPITAL-
parallel ranges of
following
on the mainstay of the province
the
Hongkong, Caton, Macan, Swatow and Amoy
Province
of my a highway robbers in days gone trade, it was a large mart for the distribu In the capital the state of affairs is by before the city of Hong Kangtion of gords, two Bithe of the exterios very serions indeed. The suppression of reached This is a very large sub prefectural city at the confluence commerce of Kweichow being
Merchants Luen River and one of huence of the there; but now there is no export from all branches of trade, has paralyzo a large junk-building centre, also export the province except a few hides, conse forcibly added to the already wellnown having loss their staple trade, and having ing tons of that thick bamboo plaited quently it is suffering with every other poverty of Kweichow, with no other no other product to export, their business to fall back upon. rope used for hauling the larger junks town in weichow that has no industry resource to fall back upon,
One travels for days through a over the Yangtze rapidner jake to
Another two days journey,
sion of poverty stricken, tumble-down is practically at a standstill. The for the most part the winding course of cities with houses in ruins and the people financial state of affairs is even worse. the Yuen River, brings one to Yuen Chouings The villages here and there The residence of 8,000 Yunnanese troops accomplished Fu-the last large city of any importance consist of a collection of huts or hovels in and around the capital during the last alnost in this extreme western part of Hunan. thatched with coarse grass and brushwood, two years, and their disastrous expedition 16 stands on the right bank of the Yuen with not a decent dwelling amongst them to Chungking where they seco
to the dregs Now they have gone away, leaving
the Provincial Treasury River, which at this point is spanned by The most after wretchedness and misery nothing has
Government, a very fine roofed bridge, about half mile long with rows of shops on either prevailing everywhere.
The unproductive soil of Kweichow was exhausted. The side of it. This city is only some two
tion of the poppy, and now that that only the resource of printing ad tab, dollar border
Done eleven Altogether
for the people to fall back upon to replace in the Treasury. These dollar notes are. occupied in crossing this section of industry has been killed there is nothing and every ten sent notes with no Hunan. Fine weather prevailed through out, which
it. Nothing can replace it, as cereals will quoted on the market today, at 70 per when a product bringing in some thirty 400 caal One can readily imagine what million dollars per annum to the people a disastrous effect this has in general on and of which amount the province would already stagnant trade, and unless some Kweichow will bo -After leaving Yuen Chow Fu the road benefit to the extent of some million monetary help is soon forthcoming, and does not follow the ever-winding course dollars in likin collections, in addition tome means devised to restore the of the Yuen River, but pursues a more to the inevitable squeeze estimated at equilibrian of trade
(To be Continued.) direct course through a most barren, twice that amount, going into private soon faced with the unpleasant prospect unproductive, sparsely-populated region, pockets is suddenly swept away, and no of Provincial bankruptcy. for five days, until Chen Yuan, Fu is substitute made for if it cannot be reached Until a short time ago, this wondered that the people are stunned, us
APRUFOS OF THE POPPY...
days journey by road from the Kweichow adapted for little other than the cnitiva being in dire niece for funds, has
reserve
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MY WORD
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FLEAS BEETLES MOTHS
Famished
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