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THE HONGKONG DAILY BREEL, SATURDAY, MARCH 14μμ, 1914.
BETWEEN FOUR CAPITALS.
KWEILIN TO KWEIYANG.
INTRODUCTORY,
(Contimied *)__
Very few foreigners make the journey between the capital of Kwangsi. and Kweichow except occasionally stray missionarice, for the reason that Kwei chow being the most inaccessible of all the Southern Provinces, without any direct means of communication, the capital being twenty days overland by caravan from Yunakufu, the nearest point of railway connection, and fifteen days overland from Chungking, the nearest point of water connection, on the Yangtze lines quite out of the beaten track, practically unknown, inhabited by tribes. of aborigines, descendants of former races, whose name is legion, and who differ in origin, custom and language from the Chinese, and over whom the latter have little or no control, living as they do in the most inaccessible moun fainous districts, only descending into the
THE SAME TO-DAY AS IN towns in the plains on market days to
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barter and purchase the few necessities that they require. Few people outside, missionaries know anything about that section lying between Kweilin and Kwei- yang, and to the outside world it is to all intents and purposes a livre ferme.
THE COMMERCIAL ROUTE, There generally speaking, between the two are only two recognized routes, capitals: What is termed the commercial route and the Kwun Tai Ma Lu, or the. "Big" Mandarin Road. The trade route grew up, so to speak, with the cultivation of the poppy and the growth of the opium trade of Hwoichow before that time there was no trade, or very littlo, except that which was carried on with the aboriginen, in the sking of wild animals for which Kweichow has always been famous. With the growth of the opium trade, however merchants came from all parts of Kwangtung and Kwangsi to buy, and trade followed the course of least resistance, the West Biven as far as Liuchow; from there merchants travelled by the smaller type of junk, or cargo boat up to Kachow on the Kwei chow border to which point the Tu Kiang, one of the tributaries of the Liuchow river, is navigable at all seasons of the year. From that point it was only nine days or so overland by mule caravan to the Capital Most of the opium grown in the southern part of Kweichow found An outlet via this route to the big markets of Kwangtung, that of the northern part going out vid Chungking to the big towa on the Yangtze. Some time prior to and ensuing tho fall of the Manchu Dynasty, when the firm measures taken by the Military officials for the suppression of the cultivation of the poppy in Kweichow, and the neighbouring provinces of Yunnan and Szechwan, were so rigor ously prosecuted, and the opium industry killed, this route gradually lost its com mercial importance and the upper reaches of the Tu Kiang River became the haunts of pirates and opium smugglers, and since the revolution all traded this route has stopped on this account, such that to-day no one dares to travel in this region, preferring the somewhat longer round-about why the Big Mandarin
onsidered the onl
safe mate
from Kweilin THE BIG "MANDARIN ROAD. Owing to the latter-day importance of the new trade between the two capitals, this route was seldom teed except by a fow travelling officials, and of later years its existence seems to have been quite lest sight of, as it is not marked on any of the recent taps. This is very strange, as it is an excellent road, and kept in very good condition: the natives in each district being responsible for its upkeep and repair, as far as the Hunan-Kwel- chow frontier The Kweichow section I will, however, doal with later on
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PEOPLE, CUSTOMA, ETO: There are no towns of any size to be met with in the whole of this region. Scattered here and there along the road are small inn stages for travellers, usually consisting of from Bity to sixty dwellings, most of which are wretched ipns, where one has toy and snatch a night's rest in spite of vermin which abound, Thess inn slagte era es a rule situated in a valley fed by some mountain stream. Timber being plentiful in these parts, the houses are fairly well built wooden structures, roofed with the bark of pine trees and brushwood. The chief occupar tion of the antives being the felling of pine and bamboo poles, which are fosted down stream to the several small timber stations there they are made into rafts. floated down to Wuchow and ultimately find their way to Canton,
Rice and turnips seen to form the staple diet of the natives in this region.
It strikes due north from Kweilin, and every available patch of ground is cultivated, but except for occasional it is six days before one crosses the Hunan tracts in the valleys, and at the mouths border. From thence it follows a borth of small mountain streams, there is very westerly course through ha sparsely little land available for cultivation. The populated, thickly wooded region, passing ratives seemed greatly interested in me. through the large cities of Wu Kiang and upon enquiry I found that many had Chow, Hong Kiang and Yuenchow Fu, never seen a European before Whenever some twelve days being occupied in reach a halt was made they immediately ing the Kweichow border, from whence crowded round, watching my every move- it is eleven days to the capital. The whole ment, which at meal times who very journey occupying about a month. embarrassing, as they would persist in X-
EN ROUTE UNI
amining everything I ate. I used to give Owing to the wintry weather that them the empty tins, which were highly prevailed in Kweilia during the last fortnight spent there, snow falling almost Prized and uned to create great discus every day, accompanied by a bitter north tons, and some very amusing remarks were passed as to their origin one gets easterly wind and sleet, provented us making a start earlier, as the carrying used to that kind of thing after a while coolies would not badge an inch, so we had to wait for a return to less incle ment weather. A break came at last, however, and we were able to set out on our 600 mile trip with sunny blue skies prevailing, although the air was keen and frosty in the early mornings, a much better augury than when we left Canton some two months earlier,
TOWARDS THE BUNAN BORDER. The Kweilin Plain is left at a distance of come fifteen milca from the Capitali the road following the course of the Fuho for some forty milen, when it bifurcates, one following the Canal, joining the Yangtze with the West River basin, towards central Hunan, and the other our route following the course of one of the tributaries of the Fake for dome thirty miles through a thinly populated, wild, thickly-wooded district, where tiger, panther and leopard roam, One rides for some three days through some of the most beautiful sylvan scenery imaginable, pine forests and bamboo groves, following for the most part the courses of mountain. streams and rivalets. Then there is a eady climb for two days over two parallel ranges of mountaine, ascending and descending “almost perpendicular ataircases cut out of solid rock, some 2,000 feet high. These two ranges divide the Yangtze from the West. River water- sheds forming a natural barrier between the two previnder. Once the sumumi is reached, after a steady day's climb, a most magnificent panorama of mountain Ecenery presents itself. Nothing but a veritable sea of mountains, covered with thick ping forests, stretches away as für as the eye can see on the horizon, In the early morning before the sun rises the cloud effects in this region are very fine indeed
The only landmark dividing the two provinces, is an old tumble down stone gateway, built in a narrow defile, with not a sign of habitation within miles. A most desolate spot imaginable,
"["The previous articles were published on- December 31st, 1913, and January 6th, 1014]
IN THE YAO-TZE COUNTRY
The whole of this mountainous region of South-Western Hunan, and that dis- trict stretching along the northern border of Kwangsi, and westward towards the junction of the three Provinces of Kwøl- chow, Kwangsi and Hunan, is inhabited by the Hwang (Yellow) Yuos or Ynotze,
#1019-1
which being interpreted mean jackal, Those people are a district race af aborigines, bearing no resemblanco, what- over to the Chinese in language, dress or customs. They prefer to live, scattered through the most inaccessible mountainous parta, in isolated families or small groups, only descending into the plains to barter for the few necessities that they require from time to time... Very little is brown of them, as they differ from all other aboriginal tribes, are very difficult to approach and do not like strangers. They seem to be of Burmese origin, as they bear a striking resemblance to the Shans found all along the Rarmo-Yunnan Frontier
Mobile
They wear the hair long, and are of very short, sturdy stature, and the men have practically no hair on their face. They are much better dressed than the Chinese, and the women's costume is very picturesque their strange headgear giving then a most peculiar appearance,
The men wear short trousers, barely reaching to the knees, kept up by a very strong prettily worked leather belt with a pouch or pocket attached to the centre, made of deerskin, in which they keep their tobacco and a short pipe. Stuck in the side of the belt is a very formidable looking sheath knife, which they carry for protection, and which they are said to be able to use with great dexterity. The upper part of the body is covered with loose leather jacket, with short sleeves, the outside of which is painted with some kind of resin or black paint, which makes the jacket waterproof, and has a soft shiny rubber-like appearance. Their chief occupation is hunting wild animals,
and they are very dexterous in the trap- ping of deer, fox panther and wildcat, which abound in these almost inaccessible mountain regiona. On a market day” any of the market towns they may be seen in twes and threes bartering their skins for cloth and silk threads, and other necessities, the women being very clever (Continued on pipe 6)
A Story of Suffering.
Headaches, Dizziness, NervouSNESS, STOMACH TROUBLE, LOSS OF APPETITE. Banished by
MOTHER SEIGEL'S SYRUP.
Mrs. M. Coombes, of 28, Beaconsfield Road, Eat Lenzios, Capte wring on Augen 7th, 1913, sayı *——— Somo years ago I suffered from acute samich disorder, and bring temble to obtain a sure, became so werk aad run dawa, that I was almost unfit for anything
mike My appslite was very post, and alter meals I was always lutiess and droway, with a feeling of oppression in the region of the chest, and shooting pains on the shoulders and back. – After this had gone on fer some time I began to be afflicted with sucking headaches, apelis, al dumners and perfour-
was deprived Renhe pains became a acute eventually, that
night after night, and consequently becaDO O physical wreck of sleep,
વન
minar of torture...recated fo-all- manner of so-called renches, cone of which shorced me more than temporary relief, as that he began to lose faith; Conergacally, when Mathe Seig i's Syrup was first renzended £ fels sazie diffidence in making any more experiments. How- ever, the fiend who advocated my giving it a trial, was so persistent and so convinced of the elliency of this meclione, thet i fixally became merced to follow her advicevavarsd
•† The advice proved 17 goo I that before the first bottle of 'other Seigel's - Sylup was 15 vred, I walceing quteadɗucet weman, and thyes buides effected whit has proved to be a permencit curie. Since then en occasional. dose of Msher Sigel Syrup has kept me in the best of health,
* Indigestion, if neglected, can undermine the strength of the strongest man or wonias,. In þirs, Coambes sose it- mundo der-weak, inistrabis, and unit for work. If you suffer as she did, why not follow her example, and Let Mother Saiger's Syrup remove the complaint. Takizdaily, after meals, zyd you will soon feel the Leucht. But frmly refuse all substitutes
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(175