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A NEW YEAR'S DANCE IN NORTH

BORNEO.

shining brilliantly on palm and plantain, bat under the vast gable roof there was a gloom only somewhat relieved by six small lamps banging against the supporting poles. The space between the side platform and the dancing platform in the centre was filled with a constantly moving crowd, there was the head chief of the Tonom district, and Gangaan. the chief who eat off the head of Mateali the rebel after he had been killed by a Moxim gun. The platform sank towards the centra even without the weight of the dancers, and with thom it sagged like a sheet with a load in the middle. Some Morate squatting or porohed along the edges of the danging platform helped with their weight to keep it more horizontal.

thoi-Da-Kabo Kabo Kobe" anh than a oird chant that rises and falls and xi es again. The women only are singing now. They are taunting the met, and their strange worda mean in our tongue, Onco you used to got hoads, but the Goserament now forbids it. and you get heads no lonier."

It was the night of the New Year sports at Tenom, which beyond the end of the railway that runs inland from Jesselton, the coast town For a couple of months before the word had gone through the forests that there would be

The dancera clanfed all the while, and each be reat sports with prizes, for which all

group changed after five or tun minites native tribes who would might compets. The with others front below. At times all the eat- brown people had como in from far and near,

sido ring of dancers were wonen. The light and the now district magistrate was laugarfell upon the rich brown limbs, and every now ing his arrival in grand style.

Early in the morning the games had begun with water sports on the Pades river raft races of the Mooruts, "gobang" rates in native boats called "gobangs," and "walking the greasy

to pole," which was fixed so as project far over the water. Coconut palms rose above the large leaved Jack trees, but higher than any palms. grow the beautiful gray-trunked Durian treos.

On a long stretch of sward a great swopilan contest was held a match with the long blew. pipes through which your Moorut svode the tiny arrow That will kill st eighty or a hundred yarda.

Little people, these forest folk, the men with long black hair; most of them were tattooed, and many bad tho oyelashes poked out Their dress was simple, consisting of no more then the "showat" or red lain cloth, long, and tied to hang in a fail behind. They showed quite a number of skin diseases, and seemed rather proud of them. Some Tomagong women from the Pagallau river wore green leaves and flowers in their hair, and many of the women had calls of brass wire round their legs and arms. There were Draks from Sarawak, with hoopoo feathers in a kind of looss turban, and à group of Bisaya boya from Loongban, of the tribe re- puted to bava econlt power in bringing death to dislant enemies by strength of will

In the afternoon a general more was made away from the river to the square enclosure near the Chinese "Kadais," the two-storeyed houses with shopa below, which make the only buildings at Tonom, excopt the resthouse and the two houses up the hill for the magistrate and his assistant, This ground presented a yet gayer scons than the river in the morning, and abose fiattered lazily the far of Britial North Bernes, a lion in the centre of a Union Jack.

At one side there was a little shaded bamboo There are no "grand-stand" for the ladies. white woman at Tenom, but Malaye and a few Chinese and Hindoos brightered the scope with silke and muslins, while two daintily drossed Japanese, with their feet in new white kid, walk- ed on clogs round the field under gorgeots um- brellas, accompanied by a well-brod Chew dog, The band of the Indian native police st Jesselton had travelled up-country for the ocoasion, and the manager of a tobacco estate, a railway engineer, and one or two minor oficials. bad come as guests of the magistrato to help manage the sporta.

"Sata: dus: teegal" Off they go. There were flat races and obtacle moes over bamboo frames and under pinned tarpaulins, and through enspended barrels, there were egg and spoon races for the Moorat women, shy little creatures who kept together in a crowd ander a camphor tree. Some of these had brought in from the forest tall narrow baskets of "damer," a resin got from about the roots of a tree, sud this, as a' any monthly Tamu or market, they were converting into brass wire with the help of the Chinese shopmen.

The children were not forgotten in the sports, and in addition to the youngsters' Lot raaes thore were many ecius to be "muzzled for in bunketa of choking dour. Many a brown- skinned young rascal did I sa gasping for breath long after he had secured the silver prize.

To me the wonderfal part of the fete was the scene at night round the swing ing platform the. Moorats had built for the strange danses referred to at the beginning.

A

Loads of cooked buffalo-meat slung on bamboo poles had been sent to the native camps, se a mach prized luxury, for the feasting, and outside the dancing platform, just undor the shelter of the wider spreading roof of Nepali palm Wore rangeil many and buff brown, green,

jars of tapi, tha rica spirit. At one side there was separate and fixed platform for privileged on- lockers, chiefs of tribes, and any of the Eng lishmen who cired to join them. The latter- were each exposted to drink tapi ceremonially with one of the shiofa, and I drank with Kotam, a Tamagong Moornt, a chief from Amboi village Wa stooped down one on each side of the great jar and drank, looking into each other's eyes. Two green bamboo shoute, as tubes to suck from, projected from the sunk, lid of the jar, and between these tubes a small green cross-piece floated in that part of the. liquor above the loose stopper und showed the quantity withdrawn.

The dancing platform was shaped like a circular plate sloping down to the centre, and was held up in air by buaches of short poles leaning against one another like a stand of arms, and tied together at the meeting point by thongs of rattan. Outside, the moonlight was

and then a strange ory went up from all the crowd, including the people outside and all beneath the canopy of the roof, a strange noise. like the yelping of a pack of wolves.

A dozon square bottles of gin were brouglit supplement the to the chief's platform topi.

Hitherto the men and women in the dances

had kept in conventrio eircles, moving liko wheela upon a central hub. Now, however, they wore springing up and down more and more Tiolently, till they reached a frenzied climax, then quieted down, and desconded from the plat frum, leaving it empty for others to take their places,"

The new performers were all Pelusos, and were those whose song was quoted at the begin- They included Tomani aing of this article. people and Raudon and Dalit people, for there dro many celebrated the return after a head-hunting or pedition, and another was a song of courting, in which the men, shoulder to shoulder, with their hand raised like the pawn of bagging dogs, circled round a knot of woman in the centre praising their beauty.

tribes of Peluans. One of thoir songs

Long aftor I had lain down to sleep that night I could hear the sound of revol and tho squeak of the bamboo framework ringling with the chant. ing and all the other sounds.

Two days after, in one of the loveliest parts of the Penotal Gorge, I was looking for crocodiles on the stretches of sand at the water's edgo, when I saw the corpse of a dead Moorut, and in my recollection of those days, the sight mingles with the weird eseme of the dance on the sing. Sometimes it is the rhythmic ing platform. motion of the dangers that dominates, seen through the smoke of native pipes-smoke

that curled in fantastic wreaths into the lofty roof of Nepah paim-sometimes it is the form of that dead creature of the forest in the blazing sun or noon, seen through creepers that bung like cascades falling from tree-tops far ap in the sky, with a butterfly floating on the air, 4 gorgeous "Brookiana barred with intense and vivid grean.-A HUGH FISHER, in the Pall Mall Gazette.

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