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THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, SATURDAY, DECEMBER 25TH, 1909.
70-1
(1158-1
ing
AFRICAN GAME TRAILS,
[DY THEODORE ROOSEVELT.]
FIRST RHINOCEROS.
it stood the pots and paus in which the porters beavy as a fattened ox. The herd I approached did their cooking. Here and there were larger consisted of a dozen individuals, two of them fres, around which the gun-bearers or a group huge balle, their costs having hired a slatey of askeris or of saises might gather. After blas, their great dewlaps hanging down, and nightfall the multitude of fires lit up the the legs looking almost too small for the maSKİYƏ darkness, and showed the tents in shadowy out. | bodies. The reddish coloured cows were of Ear line, and around them squatted the portare, lighter build. Eland are beautiful prestures, their faces dickering from dusk to ruddy light, and ought to be domesticated. As I crept to as they chatted together or anddenly started ward them I was struck by their likeness to some snatch of wild African melody, in which great clean handsome cattle. They were gras all their neighbours might join. After a while ing or resting, switching their long tails at the the talk and laughter and singing would gradu- dies that hung in attendance upon them and ally die away, and as wo white men mat around lit on their flanks, just as if they were Jerseys
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our fire the silence would be unbroken except in a field at home. My bullet fell short, the JOHN J. M. BULT,
When wo killed the last lions we were already on safari, and the camp was pitclied by a water- hole on the Potha, a half dried stream, little more than a string of pools and seed beda, wind,
down through the sumscorched plain, Next morning we started for another water hole at the rocky hill of Bondeni, about eight miles distant
Safari life is very pleasant, and also very pio- by the queer ory of a hyena, or much more turesque. The porters are strong, patient, good-rarely by a sound that always demanded atten humoured, savages, with something child-like tion- the yawning grant of a questing lion. about them that makes one really fond of them. If we wished to make an early start we would Of course, like all savages and most children, breakfast by dawn, and then we would usually they have their limitations, and in dealing with retora te camp for lunch. Otherwise we might them freness is even more necessary than kind be absent all day, carrying our lunch with us, ness; but the man is a poor creature who does Wo might get in before sunset, or we might be nat treat them with kindness also, and I am out till long after nightfall, and then the gleam rather sorry for him if he does not grow to feel of the lit fires was a welcome sight as we for them, and to make them in return feel stumbled toward thon through the darkness, for him a real and friendly liking. They Once in, each went to his tonit to take a hot are subject to gusts of passion, and they bath, and then, clean and refreshed, we sat down are now and then guilty of grave misdeeds and to a comfortable dinner, with game of some shortcomings; sometimes for no conceivable sort as the principal dish. reason, at least from the white man's stand- point. But they are generally cheerful, and when cheerful are always amusing; and they work hard if the white man is nhle to combine tact and consideration with that insistence. on performance of duty the lack of which they despise as weakness. Any little change or excitements is a source of pleasure to them. When the marsh in over they sing; and after two or three days in camp they will not only sing, but dance when another march is to begin. Of course, at times they suffer greatly from thirst and hunger and fatigue, and at times they will suddenly grow sullen or robe! without what seems to us any adequate cause; and they have an inspnsequent type of mind which now and then leads them to commit follies all the more exasperating because they are against their own
no less than against the interest of their employer. But they do well on the whole, and safari life is attractive to them. They are fed well; the Government requires that they be fitted with suitable clothes and given small tenta, so that they are better olad and sheltered than they would otherwise ba: and their wages represent money which they could get in no other way, The safari represents a great advantage to the porter: who is his turn alone makes the safari possible.
the
When we were to march camp was broken as early in the day as possible. Each man had his alotted task, and the tents, bedding, provi. sions, and all else were expeditionsly made into suitable packages. Each porter is supposed to carry from fifty-two to sixty pounds, which may all be in one bunille or in two or three, The American fag, which flow over my tent, was a matter of much pride to the porters, and was always carried at the head or near the head of the line of march and after it in single file same the long line of burden bearers. As they started, some of them would blow on horns or whistles and others beat little tomtoms; and at intervals this would be renewed again and again throughout the march; or the men might suddenly begin to chant, or merely to keep repeating in upison come one word or one phrase which, when we naked to have it translated, might or might not prove to be entirely meaningless. The headmen carried no burdens, and the tent boys hardly anything, while the sises walked with the spare horses.
QUAINT HEADGEAR.
If the
size causing me to underestimate the distance, and away they went at a run, one or two of the cows in the frat hurry and confusion skipping elban over the backs of others that got in their way-a most unexpected example of agility in auch large and ponderons animals. After a fow handred yards they settled down to the slash- ing tret which is their natural gait, and dis appeared over the brow of a hill,
The morning was a blank, but early in the alternoon we saw the eland hard again. They were around a tree in an open space, and we sould not get near them. But instead of going straight away they struck off to the right, and dugoribed almost serai-circle, and though they were over four hundred yards distent, they wore such big creatures, and their gait was so stendy, that I felt warranted in shooting. On the dry plain I could mark where my ballots fell, and though I could not get a good chance at the hull I finally downed a fins cow, and by pacing I found it to be a little over a quarter of a mile from where I stood when shooting.
THE COMICAL WART-HOS. On, the first march, after leaving our Hon camp at Poths, I shot a wart-hog. It was a good-sized sow, which in company with several of her half-grown affspring, was grazing near our line of march. There were some thorn- trees, which gave a little cover, and I killed hor at 160 yards, naing the Springfield, the lightest and handiest of all my rifles. For flesh was good to eat, and the skin, as with all our
THE FIRST RHINOCEROS, specimens, was saved for the National Museum. It was about nine miles from camp, and I I did not again have to shoot a cow, although dared not leave the eland alone, so I stationed I killed half-grown pigs for the table, and bears one of the gun-bearers by the great carcass and for specimens. This sow and her porkers were sent a messenger in to Heller, on whom not rooting, but were grazing, as if they had we depended for preserving the skins of the been antelope. Her atomach contained nothing big game. Hardly had this been done when bat chopped green grass. Warthogs are coma Wkamba man came running up to tell, m. mou throughout the country over which we that there was a rhinoceros on the hillside bruted. They are hideous beasts, with strangs three quarters of a mile away, and that he had protuberances on their cheeks, and when left a companion to watch it while he carried alarmed they trot or gallop away, holding the us the news. Blatter and I immediately rode tail perfectly erect, with the tassel bent for- in the direction given, following our wild-look- ward. Usually they are seen in family parties; ing guide, the other gun-bearer trotting aftor but a big bear will often be alone.
us. In five minutes we had reached the opposito weather is cloudy or wat they may be out all day hill-crest, where the watcher stood, and ho at kag, but in hot, dry weather we generally found once pointed out the rhino. The huge beast them abroad in the morning and ovoning. A
was standing in entirely open country. pig is always a comical animal: even more so
although there wore a few sonitored troes than is the case with a beur, which also in-
of no great size at some little distance presses one with a sense of grotesque humour- from him. We left our hornes in a and the notwithstanding the fast that both dip of the ground and began the approach; I boar and bear may be very formidable creatures, saunot say that we stalked him, for the up- A wart-hog, standing alertly at gaze, head and proach was too easy. The wind blow from hita tail up, legs straddled out, and ears cocked to us, and a rhino's eyesight is dill. Thirty forward, is rather & figurs of fun, and not yards from where he stood was a bush four or the less so when with characteristic and five feet high, and though it was so thin that donese he bounces, round with a grunt and we could distinctly see him through, the leaves, scuttles madly off to safety. Warf-hogs nie it shielded as 'from the vision of his small beasts of the bare plain or open forest, and like eyes as we advanced towards it, stooping 1 pig- though they will often lie up patches of and in single file. I leading. The big besat brush, they do not care for thick timber stood like an uncouth statue, his hide. Bla ok in the sunlight; he seemed what he was, a mouster surviving over from the world's past from the days when the boasts of the prime ran riot in their strength, before man grow so cunning of brain and band as to master them. So little did he dream of our presence, that when we were
hundred yards off he actually lay down.
After shooting the wart-boy we marched on to our camp at Bondoni. The gun-bearers wera Mohammedaus and the dead pig was of no service to them; and at their request I walked out while camp was being pitched and shot them a buck; this I had to do now and then, but I always shot males, se as not to damage the species.
WILD BEATS' ROADS. Next day we marched to the foot of Kili- makin Mountain, near Captain Statior's ostrich farm. Our ronto lay norosa bare plains thickly covered with withered short grass. All around us as we marched were the game herls, In addition to the canonical and required rebras and bartebeests, gazelles of the two costume of blouse or jersey and drawers, each kinds, and now and then wildebeests. Hilker parter wore a blanket, and usually something and thither over the plain, crossing and recrons- else to which his seal inclined. It might being, ran the datsy game trails, each with its au exceedingly shabby coat; it might be, of all myrist, hocf-marke; the round hoof prints of the things in the world, an umbrella, an article zebra, the heart-shaped marks that showed where for which they had a special attachment. Often the hartebeest herd had trod, and the delicate I would see a porter, who thought nothing etching that betrayed where the smaller antelope whatever of walking for hours at midday under had passed. Occasionally we crossed the trails the equatorial son with his head hare, tradg of the natives, warn doop in the hard soil by ing along with solemn prido either under an the countless thousands of bars or sandalled open ambrella, or carrying the umbrella (tied feet that had trodden them, Africa is much like Mrs. Gamp's in one hand, as a country of trails. Across the high voldt, in wand of dignity. Then their headgear varied every direction ran the tangled trails of the according to the fancy of the individual. maltitudes of game that have lived thereon Normally it was a red fez, a kind of cap only from time immemorial. The great beasts of the used in hot climates, and exquisitely designed marsh and the forest make thereon broad and to be useless therein because it gives absolutely maddy trails which often offor the only path no protection from the sun. Bat one would
way by which a man can enter the ombre wear a skin cap; another would anddonly put depths. In wet ground and dry alike are also one or more long feathers in his fex and found the trails of savage man. They lead from another, discarding the fez, would evert to village to village, and in places they stratch same purely savage head-dress which he would for hundreds of miles, where trading parties wear with equal gravity whether it were, in have worn them in the search for ivory, or in our eyes, really decorative or merely comic. the old days when raiding or purchasing alaves, One such head-dress, for instance, consisted The trails made by the men are made much as the two ears. Another was made of the skins longer and better defined, although I have of the skin of the top of a zebra's head, with the beasts make theirs. They are generally of squirrels, with the tails both sticking up soon hippo tracks more deeply marked than any and hen ing down. Another consisted of a made by savage man. But they are made banck of feathers waren into the hair, which simply by mau following in one another's foot itself was pulled out into strings that wore steps, and they are never quite straight. They stiffened with clay. Another was really too heid now a little to one side now little to intricate for description, because it included the other, and sudden loops mark the spot where the man's natural hair, some strips of skin, and some vanished costacle once stood; around it the an empty tin ost
flist trail makers went, and their successors have ever trodden in their footsteps even though the need for so doing has long passed
and we renehad
away.
A KHAKI-CLAD CHIEF.
If it were a long journey and we broke it by a neonday halt, or if it were a short journey camp ahead of the safari, it was interesting to see the long file of men |. apprenal Here and there, leading the porters... Our camp at Kilimakia was by a grove of scattered through the line, or walking along shady trees, and from it at sunset we looked aido, were the askaris, the rifo-bearing soldiers. across the rast plain sud saw the far-off many. They were not marksmen, to put it mildly, and tains grow umber and purple as the light, waned. I should not have regarded them particularly Back of the camp, and of the farmhouse near efficient allies in a serious fight; but they were which we were rose Kilimaki Mountain. excelent for police duty in up, and were beautifully studded with groves of trees of many also of use in preventing collisious with the kinds. On its farther aide lived a tribe of the natives. After the leading askaris might come Wkambs. Their chief, with all the leading one of the headmen; one of whom, by the way men of his village, came in state to call looked exactly like a Semitic negro, and always upon me, and presented me with a fat hairy travailed with a large dirty while umbrella in sheep, of the ordinary kind found in this part one band; while another, a tali; powerful of Africa, whero the sheep very wisely do not fellow, was a mission boy who spoke good grow wool. The headsman was dressed in English; I mention his being a mission boy khaki, and showed me with pride an official because it is so frequently assorted that mission donment which confirmed him in his position boys never turn out will. Then would come by direction of the Government, and required the men with the flag, followed by another him to perform various acts, chiefly in the way blowing on an aptelepe horn, or perhaps beat of preventing ia tribespeople from committing ing an empty can' as a from; and then the long, robbery or murder, and of helping to stamp ent lina of man, some carrying their loads on their cattle disease. Like all the Wkomba thay hail heads others on their shoulders, others, in a flocks of goats and sheep, and hards of humped very few cases, on their backs. As they saltle; but they were wnch in need of meat, approached the halting-plues their spirits rose, and hailed my advent. They were wild savages the whistles and horns were blown, and the with filed tooth, many of them stark naked, improvised druna beaten, and perhaps the though sons of them carried a blanket. Their whole line would burst into a obant.
hoads were curiously shaved so that the hair ilufts stood out in odd patterns, and they carried
mall bows, and arrows with poisoned hoads.
WITCHING CAMP.
On reaching the camping-ground each man at once set about his alottal task, and the tents were quickly pitched and rum patiu order, while water and firewood were fetched. The tents were pitched in long lines, in the first of which stood my tent, flanked by those of the other white mon and by the dining tent. In the next line
were the
THE KING OF THE ANTELOPES. The following og redu Cap fain Slatter. Wo kept among the hills. The long drought was still unbroken. The little pools were dry, and their bottoms baked like iron, and there was not a drop in the water- courses. Part of the land was open and put cook tant, the provision tent, the store tent, covered with a thin forest or bush of scattered by kinuing tent, and the like; and then mimosa trees. In the open country were many. came the lines of small white tents for zebras and hartebeests, and the latter were the porters. Botwoon cach row of tents was
broad street. In front of our own tents in the found ever in the thin bush. In the morning wo found a small herd of cland, at which after first fine an askari was always pacing to and fro, some stalking, I got a long shot and missed. and when night fell wo would kindlo a camp fire. The eland is the largest of all the horned pre- anil sit rond it under the stars. Before enoli
tures that are called antelope, being quite as
of the porters' texts was a little fire, and beside
A DESPERATE CHANGE.
Walking lightly, and with every sense kayet up, we at last reached the bash, and I pushed forward the safety of the double-barrelled. Hol- land rifle which I was now to use for the first time on big game. As I stopped to one side of the bush so as to get a clear aim, with Blattor following, the rhino saw me and jumped to his feet with the agility of a polo pony. As ha rose I put in the right barrel, the bullet going through both lungs. At the same moment he wheeled, the blood sponting from his nostrils, and gatioped full on us. Before he could get quite all the way round in his headlong rush to reach as, I struck him with my left-hand barrel, the bullet entering between the neck and shoulder and piercing his heart At the same instant Captain Blatter fired, his ballet entering the neck vertebrae. Ploughing up the ground with horn and feet, the great ball thiao, still head towards us, dropped just thirteen paces from where we stood.
This was a wicked charge, for the rhino meant mischief, and camo on with the utmost determination. It is not safe to generalisa from a few instances. Judging from what I bave heard. I am inclined to believe that both lion and buffalo are more dangerous game than rhino, yet the first two rhinos I met both charged, whereas we killed our first four lions and firat fone buffaloes without any of them charged, though two of each were stopped just
trates what I have already said as to one animal they were on the point of charging. More over, our experience with this bull rhino, illus. being more dangerous under certain conditions, and another more dangerous, under different conditions. If it had been a lion instead of a rhino, my frat ballet would, I believe, have knocked all the charge out of it; but the vitality of the huge pachyderm was so great, its mere bulk counted for so much, that oven auch a hard hitting rids as my double Holland-than which I do not believe there exists a hatter weapon for heavy game-could not stop it outright. although other of the wounds inflicted world have been fatal in a few seconds.
Leaving a couple of men with the dead rhino, to protect it from the Wkamba by day and the lions by night, we rude straight to camp, which we reached at sunseat. It was necessary to get to work on the two dead beasts as acou as pos sible in order to be sure of preserving their skins. Heller was the man to be counted on for this task. Ho it was who handled all the skins, who, in other words, was making the expedition of permanent valus so far as big game was con- earned and no work at any hour of the day or night ever came amiss to him. He had sirendy trained sight Wkamba porters to act as skinners under his supervision. Ou. hearing of our success, he at once said that we ought to march out to the game that night so as to get to work. by daylight. Moreover, we were not comfor table at leaving only two men with each carcass, for lions were both bold and plentiful.
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1464-5