801-2
FASHIONS AND FANCIES.
THE COQUETTISH SUNBONNET.
KIVER GIRLS.
How refreshing is a day on the Silent High-1 way after the fuss and turmoil of the town! Not that the highway in question errs at all ou the side of siloase. By no means. There are the throbbing of the faunches, the rhythm of many pairs of sculls, and the happy, laughing voices. But in a quiet backwater one may come into one's own, again, the possession of oneself, after living in other people's lives for so many weeks of stress. The River Girl is looking very swot this season. Her frocks are doinliness itself. She has discovered that liner is apt to crush and crease, especially is a boat, and, therefore, she prefers riyella, which never shrinks, and is made in a greater variety than over of pretty designs. Very dur. able, light, and soft, it makes capital gowns for golf, tennis, and oroquet, and for river wose is quite ideal. Several self-coteurs are represented in it, navy blue, cardinal, pale blue, grey (sc fashionable this soon), and the mixtures are equally attractive. In one of the costume cloths there sa soft and pretty mingling of pale blue, "green, and amber, and in the twoeds there is another in similar colours but with a hopsack offoot.
THE STRIPED DESIÓNA.
A very attractive viyolla costume is in this tweed make, a creamy white with very slender stripes in Wedgwood blue, perhaps the most universally becoming of all the shades of bino. The girl who wears this has quantities of fair hair tossed up lightly and softly above a pair of bine eyes with delicately defined eyebrows. The little coat has short bell-shaped sleeves that do not reach the elbows, and it opens straight down from the embroidered in Wedgwood blue in a pattern shoulder, showing a blouse in finest cambris of trefoils. The coat is short enough to show the white kid belt which matches the shoes, Sleeres to the wrists are part of the blouse. and come from under the short, plain ones of riyells.
∙IN WHITE OR CREAM?
In choosing a gown a girl often wonders whether she should have white or cream Let her decide upon the latter. A com plosion needs to be absolutely perfect to stand with impunity the proximity of mass of dead white; and even porfect complexions are subject to change with weather condt. tions. Petunia chocks go badly with white gowns. Cream colour, on the contrary, dora net unkindly elicit and publish all the sallow tones in the skin, as white does, so very cruelly. The tone of cream colour in some of the rigella tweeda is perfect, warm, and smiling, not dull and sulky looking as some shades of aroam too often are. One is in stripes like basketwork, and is of sufficient solidity to fall in charming folds. A sown of this on a panting girl has a skirt short gh to show the insteps (and incidentally work brown stockings and shoes to match), with three rows of cream-coloured braid above the hem, and placed exactly their own width apart. The skirt, itting closely on the hips, has man of
the narrow a impunen waien in no wa grotesquely ungraceful. On the contrary, it flows out about the hem, and has a grace of its ora spart from and supplementary to that of the wearer. The bodice is square over one of the neoful blousettes in insertion with high collar and long sleeves.
IN EMBROIDERED CRASH,
A Princess gown in cream-tinted crash is vary richly and thickly embroidered on the Lodice and down the front of the skirt, the design thistles, and their decorative foliage very good effect, especially as some of the loaves were outlined, with a line of palest groan. A touch of green was introduced in the collar and again in the sleeves.
THE FASHIONABLE FOULARD.
The enormous success of foulard is one of the features of the season. It is soon more especially in stripes, half an inch wide, grey and bisck, black and white, brown and cream, green and white, green and black, blue and white, or bine sui pale grey. Almost always these gowns are Princess shapo, fitting to the Sgare and with the waist in Its natural position. The stripes, when well managed, give an appearance of great slimuess to the figure, and 'there is nearly always a little trimming down the books of dresses now, which is also a very
· Fecoming addition.
IN THE MATTEN OF HATS.
AS SHAKESPEARE TEARD IT.
'TEMPEST' WITH ELIZABETHAN · PRONUNCIATION,
QUAINT PERFORMANCE,
foom contaw the yelloo sands And then took hands
Coortsied hwen you have and kissed The walld waiys hwhist.
Horrk, bark, the wattch digs barrk
Howgh, wowgh,
Harrk, harrk, ay hair
The stryne of strooting chaoticlair,
Cray, "Cockadiddladoow!"
This is not an agony-column cedo, nor a usw rival to Esperanto. It is simply "Shakespeare as spoke." In fact, as may perhaps have been noted already by some neato readers, it is the familiar song, "Come unto these yellow sande, as it sounded in the pars of Shakespeare himself.
So also it will sound again before a modern audience at a remarkable performance of some ones from "The Tempest and "Twelfth Night," to be enacted with the old pronunciation by University College students.
B
In view of this interesting revival of Shakos peare's own speech, representative had a talk with one of the pro
Daily Chronicle femors who is responsible for the arrangement of the scenes.
LOST MELODIES.
THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, SATURDAY, JULY 24, 1909.
i
THE END OF THE WORLD..
IN THIS WERE THE CASE, WHAT SHOULD
WE ALL DO?
{BY MARCUS WOODWARD.] --I think," said the Philosopher, could drink a pot of beer."
that I
This, perhaps, was not surprising we had walked ten miles over the hills, and a jolly old inn now stood invitingly before us. I caited for his beer.
His thirst somewhat quenched by the wian of our country, "The world," said the Philosopher, will end to-merrow"; at which a shepherd, a him at a rustic table, looked startled. ploughman, and a gamekeeper, seated before
"And it is in no way remarkable," he went on calmly, "that a man should die after drink- ing a pot of beer. Only a few days ago sight Italians, in West Virginia, drank el a pot of beer, aut on the morrow their world onder rattlesnake was found in the barrel. This bear very probably is poisoned."
The landlord quailed; the shephord, the ploughman, and the gamekeeper looked unessy, Shepherd", went on the Philosopher, "you will tand your sheep for the last time; plough man, you will plough your last furrow; game. keeper, you will shoot your last stoat-to-mor. row. For to-morrow the world will end.
WU TING FANG.
"We all know it, but how few realise it. No duabt you have heard of the famous Wa Ting There is no possible doubt, asid the pro-Fang, who, when about seventy, looked about fossor, "that Bluskespeare's verse was pronoune forty. And this was because of the writings on ed almost as differently from what we the scrolls of his bedroom which he road daily upon a modern stage as if it were another language. In many ways much of the melody Reading these writings, Wa Ting Fang world
I am young, I am healthy, I am cheerful, is lost by our modern pronunciation. Strange, for instance, as this immortal song may look say to himself: Why, of course I am, and in ite phonetic spelling, it will be found far therefore I am. And so, if we would realise more nanorons and beautiful with the works that to-morrow we dia we should say often, To- spoken as Shakespeare intended.
morrow the world will end." Instead we say, The world' will last our time--and all for
Wn Ting Fang, but he well know how to take another pot of beer."
(The landlord may or may not have heard of hint, whether or not intended.)
I
The main differences, you will notice, am the Elizabethans' ay, as in day or something that our i was nearly always pronounced by noar it, while their 'ay was pronounced like our in fact which survive in the sailors'
Ay, ay, sir Accordingly, in Ariel's song, hear the strain, becomes Ay hair the stryne. When Byron wrote There let him lay, for There let him lie, he was not necessarily making a a mistake, but might have been writing pure Elizabethau in his own spelling,
a
Philosopher," that on the morrow life on earth But suppose we did coalise," went on the would, as it will, end: what should we do, seeing before our very eyes the coming of the wreck of matter and the crash of worlds?
"When it would be equally easy for her to f gain her end by straightforward and direct methods, she delights to resort to duplicity and
sinuous means,
"Woman lives in the old, old world, she thinks oil thoughts, she feels old emotions, is moved by old impulses, drosses in old gewas, and is thrilled by world-old hopes and fears.
"Her fonduese for evidence of bloodshed and laughter shows in the most pronounced way her utter savagory.
"Woman is an eternal savage, whose only salvation lies in the fact that sho always has been and always will be barbarian."
OUR CIVILIAN IGNORANCE.
The military parado at Aldershot for the the following pangent criticism by a German benefit of the Imperial Preas delegates aroked mot so much on the military display itself but on the igrerance of civilians:-
The review, most especially the parade, at Aldershot was to a German the most remarkable thing imaginable.
field was a splendid one, the picturesqueness of The sight of the soldiers lined up across the the Highlanders heightened by contrast with the dull black uniform of the Scotch Brigada on the one sile and the almost pretty looking troopers on the other. "nd
Lancers, Dragoons, bright Artillerists, and romarkably fine horse- Hosh helped produce a very fine picture, ed by any Gorman, for all Germans háro However, all this would not have been remark generally seen reviews by the dozen. What would have struck him was the remarkable-to of a lot of civilians with their ladies reviewing the Garmin mind almost unimaginable-thing regimental troops very much like commanding generis: antually walking down the line of officers sud men, eyeing them critically and re- marking upon their appearance!
There seemed a certain element of humour in faces of the reviewed and the laughing and it-in the contrast of the compulsorily serions pretty faces of the reviewing ladies. It was
sign of the times a sign of the power of the the most unmilitary thing that probably ever happened. At the same time it is no doubt a Press,
Hemarkable also was the comparatively small number of people who had turned out to see the "I think, in the first place, we should all stop show. In Berlin thousands upon thousands of Of course, sa still in the west and north,*u*
work all save those few engaged on work of private citizens would have taken the treable to was oo, while the ow of yellow and similar vital import to themselves and their fellows.travel out to the parade grounds and would have words, was a round snoo, that we have grown doutor would go on with the half done waited for hours to see all they could, too lazy to speak at all. In the main, far as operation, the nurse still would hold the cup of modern dialects are concerned, you may take it water to the sufferor's lips, and preacher would that Shakespeare spoke with what we should not stop improving the occasion, but all doing tera a Birmingham secout.
necessary work would throw down their tools."
And the scales would drop wonderfully from
"But at that time the Midland dialect was
fessed himself' inland bred."
"ENBIL'S" CHARMING SONGS,
the classical English, as spoken at the Universi- our eyes. We should begin to think in good tea and by cultivated Landeners. The York-carnest, many for the first time, With the shire and West-country dialects would be world sliding to its doom we should attain the comparatively barbaric. Orlando was making no idle boast when he pro-light. The crash of matter would be the So Shakespeare's ourselves, and see our fellows in a new, true knowledge of good and evil. We should know
universal signal for the soul's awakening. k it happens, we have excellent authorities
Thongh the world ended ou a mid-summer to refer to in regard to Elizabethan pronuncia-eve, the end would be a real Christmas-day for tion, not only in the old rhymes, but in actual humanity. Goodwill would reign. Suppose the grammars of the period. In the matter of gamekeeper here were in the midst of a feud melody an even better example would be, with the shepherd: his first thought would be perhapa:~~-
to send a telegram, 'My dear shepherd, all is forgotten and forgiven.'
Fall faddom fayre they father lays Of his booans are mad.
Thaw air pairis that were his syse. Nothing of him that dooth fad.
Boot dooth sooffer a say change." It may be mentioned that Miss Hocking, the student who will play Ariel or Erril, as it should be pronounced-rehearsed these songs for The Daily Chronicle representative's benefit, and nothing more skerming could be imagined than the true ring of them. They will be sung to contemporary, er almost con- temporary, music selected by Sir Frederick Bridge, and the effect of the scenes as a whole which will be presented under the direction of Mr. Daniol Jones, M.A., should make the Shake- spearean performance one of the most attractive Events of the whole fair.
FIRST THULGAIN.
"If our first thought were that our fellows were good fellows, our secend, I think, would be that we were no better than our fellows, and had led mistaken and foolish lives. We should have loved our neighbours; that, and many see that if we had been less foolish we should things, we should see with new eyes in the day of doom. And the ides would take hold of na We must make reparation; we must do justice to ourselves and our fellow-beings before the end,
We should see on a sudden that the
world was beautiful and life a boon. Then would come the desire to have and to hold some of that beauty of the earth while there w
time.
But the most remarkable thing of all—always speaking from a German standpoint--was the ignorance of almost all the civilians present of things military. Hardly anyone knew the names of the regiments. In Berlin every child would have known better. Nor would anyone have asked to see where the "door of the gun opened, as someone did who "inspected" a troop of soldiery passed holding their unsheathed cannon.
And if one related in Germany that a small swords in front of them, and that even an officer standing near by could not explain the mystery of that troop-who they were or what they duty might be well, one would not be believed.
The Artillerists marched out of stop. The cavalry rode and looked fine. The infantry, however, does not come anywhere near the Ger man soldier as far as erect, good merahing is concerned, with the exception of the King's Company of Guarde if that is vorrectly quoten
who are a very fine body of men and remind me of sarching troop of some German" élite regiment. The Highlanders are a class of their own,ast to be compared with any existing soldier They were the prettiest sight on the field.
A thing absolutely unknown in Germany is smilitary police. There is no use for one. The German Army would not know what to do with it, if it had it
0. T. S.
London the Fashion Centre of the World
Among other delights of the three days will have the driver of a goods train backing into of Good Tailoring—.
And you world England is the Home Buddha, in which Indian ladies and goatlemen and strolling away through the woods beside the be Homerio tableaux, and scenes from the life of siding, clambering down from his engine, will take part; also morris dances, and a general line, into the green deeps of which he had often dramatic entertainment in which many well-locked with longing eyes when, roasted by his known actors and actresses participate. Mr free and the sun, he had passed by. And he William Rothenstein is making the designs for the stalle, &c., which will be decorated exactly as at a country fair in Hogarth's time.
DOES UNEMPLOYMENT MEAN INCAPACITY?
AN OBJECT-LESSON FROM LIVER FOOL.
Mr. Josepha Bibby, in Bibby's Annual, main The zirer girl shows great catholicity ofpacity, just as typhus is a penalty for insanita tains that unemployment is a penalty for inca taste in her bate. Hardly two are slike.
tion. Is says:--- From sunbonnets to bechives there is a variety that makes one wonder, and the odd iling is that they sil sent to suit the wearer, whether the great brim that makes a completo background for hair and face or the little round bat encircled with roses; the toque carried out in flowers and tilted coquettishly on one side or the round straw angle, and is, perhaps, the most becoming of any. There is something in the straight line that is nnanalysbly pretty.
COQUETRY. IN A SUNDONNET.
That we may not be thought to be meroly theorising, we may perhaps be pardoned if give an illustration which has come within our own personal knowledge during the last twelve mouths, as showing the direction in which we ability brought about by the poverty of our are drifting as a nation, owing to lack of present ideals. working The firm with which we have the honour to be associated has been erecting, during the past yoor, new offices for themselves and a modera printing house for the P. P. Press, with whom There may have been a time when a sun-they are closely associated, We needed, first of bonnet was worn without any coquetry, but all. on the river there is no possibility of such a thing. The up-to-date creation of chiffon and ribbon cannot, he donned without brightening of the eyes and that earl of the lips that shows shining teeth in a smile that 10mally bewitching. That making with its restraining ribbon or velvet falls about the hair in a manner that shows its pretty colour, and the little rolls in which fashion diotatre that it shall be worn. Soms of this senser's un-bonnets are immense, far too large for some of the little ladies who wear them, None undor 5ft 10in. should attempt them. They dwarf anyone under this height.
FEATHERS NIR RIVER WEAR,
cartain
to
་
AN MIPORTANT SAVING
would lie on his back under the trees and join Can be effected if you order your clothes from London his soul to the songbirds. And you would have the stokers of a steamer stopping their JOHN J. M. BULT,
engines and coming up on deck to see how the sun might eet when it could never rise.
"Over all mankind would come a craving for freedom. Townsmen would feel that at any cost they must get away from towns and houses, from ugliness and 'evil, and seek beauty and good, clear skies and far horizons. Freedom that would be the universal ery.
THE HOMING INSTINCT, "Over many of us would come a great desire. to go home. We should go home to our would ran to her arms. So the crack of doom mothers; every man who could reach his mother would be the mother's hey-day.
"When the last day dawned we should all mattered. The housewife would smile when ber experience a very pleasant feeling that nothing muid, harrying to depart, amashed her chalcest ten set. All the little trials of life would fade away. Teeth would cease aching, the lame would walk, and the blind would see."
The Philosopher paused; the shepherd, the ploughman, and the gamekeeper started, as from
great stability and rigidity in the structure,
slowp. obtain absoluto accuracy of register, without which such fine printing as is found in the present number of Bibby's Annuai be produced. The kind of structure most suitable for our work we found to be re-enforced
could
not
erecting buildings of the required stability was ammato, and we discovered that this method of the patent of a Frenchman, to home we paid due toll.
Nearly the whole of the up-to-date printing machines and plant came from America or were of American origin; and a still heavior toll. was paid to Uncle Sam for the use of his inven-. tive brain in this direction:
Tell me,
"what would you do if you knew the world ended to-morrow P***
And the shepherd, the ploughman, and the gamekeeper with one accord pushed their now empty mugs towards the landlord.
WOMAN-THE SAVAGE,
UNGALLANT ORITICISMS BY A FROFESOR.
Frofessor Starr, of the University of Chicago, who occasionally startles the world with unex- posted and sensational criticisms, has made another bitter attack on woman-kind, in which be anys:
"It is impossible to civilise woman, for her fundamental nature is barbaric, and the con- tinuance of the race depends on the rigil assertion of this difference between man and
I challenge anyone to show'à single first-
"Her religion is also notably that of lower
The electric motors, however, came from Germany, but this was not a very heavy item. The old rule that forbade the wearing of The Carraro ware with which the building is feathers with river dress is openly diere. faced, and which gives it a cleanly and pleasant garded, especially in Houly week. Iminense appearance, was happily of British origin, sud chip hats loaded with ostrich plumes are seen to was the gas-producing plant which drives in punts and skis and on launches at these the machinery. times. But flowers are far better, and can the foreign inventor obtained a toll on
But taking
the whole of the outlay together, anything be prettier However, if a girl once begins up wear feathers in her hats she never suore than three-quarters of the entire building lase achievement by woman in literaturo, leaves them off. She finds them too becoming for it paid us mach better to give him this than, solence, or ar
and plant. We do not complain that he did so, It is the same with the raffle, disfiguring 18 it usually is to the general outline. No one who to go without the improvements with which he culture. She is always seeing signe everywhere. has worn a raffle leaves it off with anything but furnished us. reluctance. But there should be a sumptuary
Explain it how we will, the feet cannot be She is the chief supporter of spiritualistic law forbidding the shortnocked to put them on, controverted that in our modern factories and mediums. She founds new sects in which the so very ugly is the total disappearance from
ip pur great electric power stations the most religious attitude of savagery is given now back view of the interval between the head and up-to-dato machinery will be found to be either names. the shoulders The ruffle is often too thick for imported or of foreign origin. even the swan-necked. What must it be, tiren, for the shart woman with about half an inch of throat? Most dopressingly hideous! If the wearers could only see themselves they would be convinced but if a thing is fashion- able they see it by itself and not in connection with the outline of the human shape-X and 2. in the Globe.
Ek
It must be as clear as neonly to anyone who will think the question ont, that employment cannot be found for the now reoraits of our industrial arany unless we are generating inits Live talent in sufficient volume to extand the Neid of industry in harmony with the growth of population. This, we submit, we are not doing, and the cause will be found in the self-seeking deals which inform our activitios.
"The twentieth century womanshows herself no farther advanced than her jungle sister by her love of bright colours and by decorating herself with birds and the fors of animals, also by her love of jewels sad perfumes.
† In the fondamental principles of her char- acter and in her instincts woman has passed through the ages unchanged.
Her savage ingenuity in gaining her ends through deception and treachery luas become proverbial.
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