WHAT I WOULD TELL AN ENGLISHWOMAN IF I DARED,
BY ROGER DE CHAFELEUX.
THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, SATURDAY, JANUARY 9TH, 1909.
lishwoman does, she needs.vory little cosmetics. I would suggest that water with a little lemon, fresh air and exercise, regular meals, and sleep. are the "beantifiers," and that a woman can be
FASHIONS AND FANCIES.
The rage for sequins cannot be mid to be over, for it is almost se great as ever, but for
THE BAYONET AND ITS HISTORY.
beautiful without an ocean of tumultuous undulathe moment bugios are the crave, combined with Royal United Service Museum, writing in the f
tions and hillocks of fancy curls.
The Englishwoman is beautiful-but before analysing her charm I would like to agros with the reader on the meaning of "Beauty," Nowadays we are liable to fall in ecstasy before a smooth and transparent skin, tiny, pink ents, a glorious maas of hair, a roguish or dreamy Parisienne, the stormy eyes of the Russian beads. Very becoming to the arms are these by the cavalry branch into the British Army,
eyelastics,
may
the Italian woman is more coquettish Sho The well-travelled reader may object that knows stories of balconies, intrigues, and billete doux. But that is no longer coquetry.
She may quote the Andalusiar's fan, the dalightful thongh artilleial laughter of the bolle, or the enticing, haughtiness of this
would-be cold American.
beada, Dred to every colour in which evening upon them in fringes, in fat embroideries, on dress materials are made, these are lavished
brace a and bretelles, and even on isoo itself. As an instance of this last, a pair of Alencon aloeves has the design outlined in small jet but one wonders if it is exactly according to the canons of art to decorate late with beads, the washable with what cannot be washed. In this connection, what can be said of the young American bride who having her black lace stockings sown with her monogram in diamonds upon the instep Art is forgotten in the rush for something new, something striking, some
eye. full red lips, pearl-liko tooth, or swooping
Many men, whom they describe woman All these coqueteries are elemental The whose beauty delights them, will often speak of coquetry of the Englishwomen is
more her chief perhaps her only-attraction; it subtle. One never realises that she is be the light in her eyes or the delicacy of coquettish until one has been caught or her, compaion, fine color of her hair or a hurt. All the time she is "having her own bewitching diraple (men are known to have fallen way and handles admirers with utmost in love with even less than that), leaving side skill and apparent indifference. She re-thing audicions. All other facts and details, including these all maine impassive and superior, and plays. important factors of beauty Propertion. She has not ovan the exense of passion. Passion symmetry, and expression.
iont of fashion in England, nowadays.
not, and hoars, though listene not. She says not out, slie munches. She sees, though, xis looks little, but her words carry a world of meaning: Yet, if I had to rotate briefly my views of
The true sense of the beautiful is somewhat
person has little or no artistic tendonoies. xars, especially in England, where the average fancy that few lovers to-day could accurately donoribe the shapo of the face of the woman they
She does not laugh, she smiles. She does
To hark back to bugies, it is noticed that these are smaller and more regular in shape than them known by the name sovie graze ago. A tunic out in points, all of which are ontlined fate-coloured Japances silk is made with a
The little isce vast with fringes of bugles in the same colour.
Mr. B. E. Sargeant, Assistant - Curator, latest issue of the Cavalry Journal on the article boing illustrated with photographs history of the bayonet, deals in an interesting and informing manner with the subject, the the various types of bayonets. The taganet, he says, may be claimed to have been introduced for it was first issued to Dragoons, though at that time they might perhaps be regarded as mounted infantry. The weapon was notually known in France during the latter part of the sixteenth century, but only in a sporting capacity, and in Cotgrave's Dictionary: Hrst published in the year 1611. It is recorded: furnished with knives or a great knife to hang. Bayonette, a kind of small flat pocket-degger,
at the girdle like a dagger. As a
military arm the bayonet was not very much met before the year 1650. It was, however, in vee in 1747, for in the "Momoires de Jacques de Chastenet,
When I was in command at Bergues, at Chevalier, Soigneur de Paysegur," pablished at Paris in 1747, it is stated in chapter vill Ypres, Dizmade, and Laquenos, all the parties
admire. We call beauty what is mere protținess the Englishwoman's appeared. I would say bodico between the big the front of the that I sent out arossed the canals in this
A MOST AGREEABLE SURPRISE.
found: her beauty is refined and healthy.
SWEEPING STATEMENTS ON DRESS,
that online the sides
THE, WIDTH OF SKIRTS.
carry awards, but they bad bayonettes with bayonettes were as long as the handles, the ende handles one foot long, and the blades of the
of which were adopted for putting in the barrels of the fusils to defend themselves when attacked after, having“ fred,
or clar, and are more easily satisfled than the that her beauty has two qualities seldom to be of the Empire bodíre is aflame with small besil fashion.. It is true that the Foldiers did not! Greeks of old whoso standard of beauty was any thing
but yagu .
matching the tint of the bugles, and from the ent of either band depends a fringe of bugles After all, wo are perhaps right, and measure-. ments are not everything. A woman may bo It is a painful statement to make: re Round the underskirt, cat close, narrow and How many clinging, is a band of bead embroidery match. beautiful without being 5ft 5in. in height. Itement is growing rarer. is not necessary that "the upper arm be 13i. in en on the Continent have mistaken aning that in the vest. The only relief from all circumference, the calf 14hin, the ankle Bin, the doubtful character and class? It is not only the arms and falling an inch or so over the aristocratie or well-bred lady for a person of this red is in the long hee sleeves closely fitting noso as long as the forehead is high, the foot that thousands of European ladies dress se hands.
This earliest type of plug-bayonet poséessed" neither guard nor metal pommel, the bandlo oneseventh of the height, and her throat easily they should not, but they often lack the natural
being of wood. Those with guards and pommels circled by the thumb and second finger of her dignity which becomes persons of their rank Three yards in the atmost width allowed to of metal were introduced in the year 1680 and two hands joined together?"
and education. In Englund such mistake would the modish skirt about the bem, This forbids existed up to the year 1706. It must be remain- Proportion, none the lese, is essential. Tall be almost impossible. The Englishwoman the wearer to take long steps or to make any bored that the musket at its crigin, in the commands respeel. Thanks to physical training, Budden, nupremeditated movement. The kures sixteenth century, was a most heary and or short, a woman may approach perfection if to the national love of apart, her body in healthy; have to be kept close together, and the feet must awkward weapon. Invented abroad, like al- she is proportionate. And she is, in England, thanks to her bringing up" and lor religions be near companions in order to maintain the most every other military weapon (for none can perhaps more so than in any other country.
The English woman is beautiful, and it is education, her mind is also healthy. Health and exiguous line of the narrow skirt. Those condi. be claimed by Great Britain), it was necessary reflament are the chief characteristica of Eng- tions are not appropriate to busy lives, but to fire it over a rest (fourchette) since its weight probably the greatest and most agreeable sur-Boh beauty, and perhaps the reader, for the answer as well as anything else for a novelty to prevented its being discharged without thin prises England has in store for foreign visitors wake of this sincere acknowledgment will forgive those who live to dress. Unfortunately, howesistance. The process of leading was very the writer the dreadful and sweeping statements ever, but few Englesh figures look well in these slow, and Sismondi even states that it occupied
lishwoman Dresses." he is about to make concerning How the En-very dinging skirts and short-waisted bodices. quarter of an hour. Elsewhere it is stated, on
English figures are es good as any in the world; good anthority that six arrows could be dis but the English carriage loaves much to be charged while the ransk of it was being loaded. desired. In chilliood and girlhood as he does not seem to have been very popular, For some time after the year 1647 the bayonet and stooping are too much allowed, just as any perhaps owing to the size of the muekot then are with our boys in public schools. Fencing is the proper cure for this defect. Fencing touches used, and no doubt for this reason ne mention grace without stiffness, whereas drill fails in the is made of it in the "Mareschal de Bataille” latter partienler,
of Lostelnau, a work published late in the year 1647. *8 ROOD, however, 1.8 the fusil was introduced the excellence of the hayonet was at once recognized, and the first French regiment to be armed with it was that of the Fusiliers, afterwards the Rayal Artillery the function of the Fusiliers being to protect the guns,
to her shores.
Yot, if I darod, in spite of her lovelinssi, I would give a few hints to the Englishwoman conseruing her appearance. I would tell her that her brow is generally a trifle low, and that
she emphasises this foot by covering too much of it with her hair, forgetting that the light of the forehead laminates the face.
I would tell her and, at least, she would not dislike this repark that her eyes, with her complexion, are her chief charm. The eyes of the Englishwoman have shades of colours which are truly unique; transparent grey, ideal blue, warns purple even-like the velvet of certain pansies and stranga hazel-brown, with vague tinges of green, which remind one of the deli-
· oate buns of mysterious rocks washed by a sea of liquid turquoise. The eyes of the Englishwoman also romain "young" longer than any other eyes, and it is, perhaps, the reason why so many aged ladies in this country remain pretty, almost fascinating, and are good to look upon. What makes the ayos of Englishwomon o wonderful is not only their colour, but the fact that they are at the same time childish and slightly pathetic. And to add to their fascina tion they share, with the eyes of the fair Scandi navions, that frankness and purity which stir the soul and command respect,
IF I dared, I would all the Englishwoman that the beauty and mass of her hair form yet another of her enchanting privileges, but that sha seldom knows how to use that privilege.
THE WRONG COIFFURE"
From the factory girl who trima her hair in the most appailing, manner under her black sailor hat to the society queen who wears mona- ment of ourls, friceties, and other spoils taken from someone else's head, the Englishwoman dresses her hair too little or too much. Hor coiffure is either careless or too elaborate. I
would also tell her this:
If I dared, I would say: "Badly! At least, the overwhelming major. ity of Englishwomen dress badly! And then I would wait for the worst, for you have, madam, the somewhat naive conviction that you are an expert in matters of taste and elegance,
Madam, you dress better than you did ten years ago, but you are still far from artistic elegance, far from dressing as your beauty-- that jewel deserves to be set.
"I'm Directoire in front,
וי
each,
THE NEW TREATRE TOQUES." Whether the attempt to substitute small toques for the huge lints that obstruct the view To dress well requires something more than of so many visitors to the theatres will succeed money, and even something different from taste; or not, any failure will by no means be due to a mysterious "knack," which, being a 'natural the designers of the new toques. They are gift, is never acquired. How otherwise could fascinatingly becoming. One is in black twisted one explain that certain English ladies, with a chiffon, dat on the top of the hood, but with Sir James Turner, writing in the year 1670-71. perfect figure and ideal features, dressed by the shaded cherries falling in a fringe at one side, a mentions the use of the bayonet in the following best Parisian "conturiers"—"look a sight," if | little.wreath of the green cherry, leaves making words;--“And indeed, when musketeers have I dare use this strange and popular expression? a border above them. This toque falis low upon spent their power and come to blows the butt- It is one thing to have a dres od, and the hair de the back, forming agrada arcoping end of their musket may de an enemy more hurt another thing to "wear" it. Scores of line. Another is in black jetted with falling then these depicable swords which most muske- Parisian humble trottins, with no figure to loops of dull jet bends at either side; and yet teors wear at their sides. In such medleys, paak of, tiny eyes, little haired a snub another is in black velvet with a three-fold rope kuives whose bindes are one foot long, mate both 100, and wearing a dress costing a few of pearls twisted in and out, with a band of for cutting and thrusting (the shaft being made france, made by their own deft fingers, and a velvet, Bloe tissue is the material of another of to fill the bore of the musket), will to hat "improvised" with a bit of folt, fre stitches, these dainty little toques, the shade Nattier, with more execution than either sword or butt of and two feet of ribbon, will look a picture of cherries and snowy cherry blossom for trimming. muskot." Thirty years before the close of the delightful elegance as compared with a classically Others are in purple, hellotrope, dull grcon with seventeenth century. the bayonet was beginning beautiful English Lady wearing a gown and a metallic petalled flowers, according to the present to assume a recognised position in the vocabal hab signed by the landing tits f the Duerator Te
ary of arms. In the year 1871 a corps. was de la Prize-
À SUCCESSFUL, EVEN Kaised in Francs armed with fustle and bayonets. THE MISTAXES OF THE ENGLARYWOMAN.
following year on April If I dared. I would tell the Englishwoman back," said a tall, stout woman, speaking of her 2 a warrant was issued by that she lacks gracefulness in her attitudes, new gown. I'm much foo fat to wear the establishing a regiment of four more in
King Charter The effect was far raised in tweirs. especially out of doors. She lacks not only Directoire shape till round. eleganos and grace, but femininity he does from bed, and the wisdom of the wearer was to besides, on cors, to be commanded by Prince not know how to walk, how to hold her skirt, be applauded. So few of us know what suits us Rupert. The soldiers of the several troops were. how to use her arms, how to carry her head, how hest, and of these who do, but a small proportion ordered to carry one match-lock musket, with a to step in or out of a cariage.
can deny themselves the pleasure of being at the collar of handeliers, and also one bayonet or All her attitudes seem rigid. If the tried to top of the fashion. The Directoire gown is great knife. be otherwise it would amount to affectation. A suited only to the slight. It can be adapted by
The bayonet was issued to the Fasilier painful dilemma, indeed: she must either be the exercise of supreme skill to those of co-regiments in England for the same reason that naturally artificial or artificially natural! There fortable proportions, but the modifications have
It was given to the corresponding troops in is little or no harmony about the average to be carefully thought out, and this sort of skill France. The first English regiment of Fusi- Englishwoman's movements.
is extremely costly. Some figures are fairly Bers was the 7th, raised in 1585. At first the need hardly add that there are exceptions to satisfactory as far as the waist, but the apparently chief duty of the Fusiliers was the protection of this rale-and that whom su Euglish woman is inevitable "spreading" is but too evident below the guns. The plug-bayonet was no doubt a really graceful no human creature is more fairy-it. And no one would suggest the application like and fascinating
of the wire shapo mentioned among Chinese Tory great assistance to the Fasilier, but it was
Proxy."
certainly an impediment in so far as, while it tortures in James Payn's novel "By
was fixed in the muzzle, the weapon, could not be THE LONG SLEEVES,
fired. Again, it was of frequent occurrence With sleeves to our wrists and falling over that after a thrust the bayonet conne so the hands, we are saved much money on flawedged into the barrel that it was impossible to For these can now be three-batton length in extract it with ordinary force. The result stead of twelve or sixteen. Even for evening wear these very long sleeves are worn with these two masin disadvantages was the introduc evening dress, and her again the thrifty-minded tion of a new bayonet which when fired, still
price can rejoice. Three-button gloves cost from 3. imitted of the fusil being fired still* This upwards. Very long ones are treble that at the lowest. This makes a difference in the Mr. Sargeant, thon proceeds to trace the bay-
sword-bayonet.
Madam, you grow used to one way of dressing your hair and cling to it for the rest of your dags. Why not sit one morning before your mirror an easy task and try now" coiffaros until you flad the one that suits you bortot forgetting altogether the exigencies of Fashion P May 1, further, respectfully remind you that here, again, proportion is essential? I have seen amali Englishwomen with towering odifices of curls who igenuously believed that it made them look taller. I have aden slender ladies with a high, pointed hairdress, which made them look more Blender at hattened, then hop
persons with a broad coiffure which lessely.
Similar remarks apply to almost overy detail of
Englishwoman's physical
[]] "arrangement." She
dazzling earrings, even if mature has endowed her with somewhat large ears, forgetting that the diamonds will attract attention to the size of her ticular about her boots, but not always about, disposition of the dress allowance, and in the onet's history down to the latest ono-edged
the
auditory organa.
wear
I could esa y multiply such examples, but I hear your objection, madam. You Kay: We Englishwomen are a natural, so impulsive, so genuine, that we care little about such trifles. We are women, British, women, uot dolls!?
No, not dolle, madam, But one may be eoquettish without being a doll, and you and coquettish, as much as, if not more than, any This is what I other woman on earth! would tell you if I dared
WHY THE ENGLISHWOMAN IS DANGEROUS.
The Englishwomen is coquettish, always and everywhere, and what makes her coquetry so dangerous is that she never loses her self.
consciousness.
I
Be
the details.
She is constantly making mistakes, She selects the wrong colours, waars dresses the lines of which do not hamucnies with her style of beauty; and, above all, hor, elegane is never complete, or is marred by some painful error in If I dared, I would say that one sees every day in the streets of London ladies who wear an elaborate hat with a modest tailor-made costume, or a wonderful gown with a cheap and absurd bonnet. The Englishwoman is always par her gloves. Why?
11e68.
And the hats! For one charming hat seen in the streets or in restaurants, how many hor. rible monuments of multi-coloured feathers, which crash the hair, kill the features, and do not even match the dress? It were easy to be cruel
width of the margin left over from it for choco-
CTUBIUS. Sho often wears jewellery in the daytime, later The lace sleeves are very becoming and seems to be unable to strike the middle line to the arms, hiding defects and enhancing between refined simplicity and artistic elaborate whiteness and a graceful shape. Miss Irene Vanbrugh wears very pretty sleeves in her green gauze gown in the last two acts of "The Builder of Bridges" at the St. James's Theratre. The gauze is cut to outline the arms with abso lute precision from shoulders to wrists without a single interruption in the shape of fulness or trimming. Ent under this severely simple sleeve near the top of the arm is a short one underneath, ending a couple of inches below the shoulder in a wide band of silver embroidery, and plainly showing through the upper sleove with very pretty effect.
But it is not only the material, the style, the colours which are objectionable, it is the war in which they are worn.
TEN WOMEN WITH MUFFE
A few days ago, in one of the most Even in the most trying cironmstances,
THE FAVOURITE STONE. fashionable thoroughfares of London, I even in her rare bursts of enthusiasm; or
Tellow diamonds are the favourite jewel this still rarer moments of passion, she sees herself, watched the ladies with muffs. Out of ten I and her sgo whispers gently into her ears counted, five held the muff in front of them, as year, but rabies, emeralds, and sapphires, have, as ene carries a heavy parcel; one held her mult always, their devoted admirers. Lorgnette chairis Mind, you are flushingli... e Take care, and skirt with the same hand; two kept rubbing are still worn. One of these, in diamonds of fair your hair is becoming undone!
their pink noses with it; one swung it with one size, can be bought for £100, Those in rubies, ware, you any losing that
pin
there. often hear you speak, madam,, of the hand as if it had been a toy; and the tenth emeralds or aspphires are the same price. Less Frenchwomen's love of beauty and of-herself, carried the huge bundle of precious skins like a expensive are chains in pearls and coloured true Parisienne. England was vindicated. enamel. The length of aneh chains is fifty-six of Parisian beanty-culture, beauty devices.
I heard the lady speak; she spoke German, inches. They can be adapted to purses or small inform you that there are more
gold boxes containing the powder-puff, the regret to beauty specialists in London than in any other with a Viennese nocent.
Now that dresses are made without pockets, latest shape for these being an apple opening city.
Your journals are crowded with special articles on fovoliness your magazines full of the ladies carry handbags, mysterious re round the centre Pearl collars are as much advertisements for the development of this, the ceptacles which contain at least a puree, a mall worn as ever. Earrings are quite fashionable diminishing of that and your periodicals mirror, a handkerchief, and a powder-paff. It again, and some of the long ones are very pretty. Among possible presents for men are scarfpios, contain portraits of pretty women more than gives their hands an occupation. But how Am anything else. Your interest in actresses, is of many English women carry that big with grace, sporting or otherwise, gold and jewelled sleove- links, waistcoat buttons, studs, Albert chains, almost incredible keenness: You know their or simply case?
Yet there is one time of year when almost plain gold or gold and platinum, fat repeaters features, their life-story, by heart. Their beauty every Englishwoman is dressed with ele and chronometers cigar and cigaretto" cases, and ulegance haunt yon
And how well you make up? What art!gance, and appears not only beautiful physically, match-boxes, and every variety of articles in While the unfortunate ladies of Paris, Rome, but charmingly attired. She le faultlessly leather.-X. AND Z. in The Globe..
during the summer. The English dressed and Vienna still use the fallacions rouge, you
a refreshing delight for the eyes. have long ago realised that a olend of pink pow. summer-girl der over a thin coating of cold cream looks bet. Clad in spotless white or in light colours, she is
elegance incarnate, for she neglects--for ance ter and "shows less,
to make herself beautiful," and all she requires then is to feel comfortable and coal without ton mach carelessness.
COSMETICS AND COQUETRY.
Beauty shows are constantly being organised in this country; beauty prescriptions are ovÐT in demand; and when you hear of a fashionable wedding you almost tear the pages of your awwspaper in she looks like
Her muslin dress is simple and refined, her large sin bonnet picturesque, dainty, and strikingly artistic, and the most severe critic
frantic anxiety to see what could but admire her.
In conclusion, I would tell the English- You crave for beauty, madam--and you al- most make yourself ugly in your strenuous Wous that she generally overdresses, lacks style and the instinos af elegance, and that she desire and efforts to enhance your loveliness.
If I dared; I would tel you that when obeys at the same time too blindly and too in woman has the good fortune of owing completely the dictates of Fashion-if I dared! an ideal complexion, us the average
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