THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 1961,
Roderick Mana
Roderick Mann off on his travels.
HAD arrived-tired, sleepy, and a trifle irritable at six in the morning And they had given me c room direct-
ly above the bar.
19
"I asked for a quiet room," I
said.
"Yo zuk: The my said.
dringing
IS MALL
auf 10470 120
E th patrik
ALLINN,
TO GO round the world to stop off at will report on the places he sees and the romantic-sounding islands where the women people he meets. In this, his first report, are beautiful and the sun is always shining-- he takes you to India's top school for snake that is the daydream of many of us. To bring charmers; to the famed Taj Mahal; and lets that daydream a little closer, one of our top you listen in on a conversation he had with columnists is on a round the world trip. He a Tibetan refugee at Katmandu.
meet the dons-at
the College of
Snake Charmers
Agia for the
!!! ! wiil thril piatis. and ! WIN 0911 the WDY
VINE
And the las
The S
Tier Mah.
axer.
PR
Though
D
would nVI
Sept
PHONE Pengige af
And so
Suspect
1.
Por N
for t flix'
forbid, but
har las b
free home
By B.
I
N
every Hab
Why At the
A
11|
itu
secmed the ponde
Coward's 4.0%
ITARS
Aura But I had my most
1 tl Capecente in Indu
Alkot 13 bule putande 17.in
for mit glopped the car "El
torsted." he
24
1
ther J. A selmoot f S....k Charm is waits fream nege Manu Burd. 1
ow snake. amove any All The Lake hartues ifi
1.
In ve
The
S
WAN
1.
│.:
<
1: A
wrong people trave
Challenge
When
ordered
Timedly
a steak For
RAOKE, Juneh
enjoy Instant Food, bl
1 knew
I would have a surfest by the
time 1
was through
The Wall
steak.
SWEK MILA
The Ashoka.
State conteviled
Up until th
My hotel,
and beach here"
impendiately
Interest
ed and he turned the car off
the mar road and drove 10.
a mile up rocky track until
We vouja ku no further
JaFl
We then
walked the alt-muie to Molar Bund, winch Suried out to be a small village of about 100 buts.
and
A bed was brought out the chef. 70-year-old Hiranth. Essed ou to greet 45.
Yes. he said, this
wus
AND MY BED-SIDE SEAT AT A
'COMMAND SHOW' COSTS ME 45s.
Canter cujar was
bod
i- hought out their by-kres
Ifa
ou pipe
15
Swaying
He grinned
blackened # gin. The snakes were still shihering about so. I did nol arg
we
on,
"Enery man
should have four wives A Hindu wife to bear children; a Persian unfe for conversation: (71 Afghan wife to keep house,
1170 મ Turkish wife to beat example to others."
As
an
pard up: 30 rupees (aboul 45), and
pressed through the crowded traffic of nyped the obras, way. ** carte, goats, elephants, A siray bicycles and sacred cows to
the Taj Mahal.
and began
around
1124
1241.
from its basket itself wrap
chuc
who gungly fully
мото 15 seared of snakes" Sand Htranit, "though
niany
ז ת1
15
Stunning
A
town: an to de-
my
com-
Mar
The snakes were still slithering about, so I did not argue. I paid up.
devou
the
same
know,
extre
Arranged
dead are placed on towers to ne: Hing in the valley at the foot his way, still grinning. be devoured by vultures.
che Himalayas.
Then it was time to fly back As we watched the
I knew I would enjoy the to New Delhi and prepare to bathing and praying in the place when I read on my hotel move on. water my hos! said: "You brochure;
"Devil dances PET- The driver who picked me up know, India is not лearly
as formed
monks from at the airport was the spiritual as we like to make out. Buddhist monasterics in the man who had driven me To
on the lawn of the Agra earlier in the week, New Delhi itself, built by the We are not quite so materialistic evening British. is dull
as America and Britain perhaps, hotel by the light
"Master." he said, "you have of bonfires uninspiring monument
but we are getting that way. Advance notice required."
come back." What are all those people Well, ported Empire glory.
I didn't stay
That master Lit. they long praying for, do you think? For
for the devil dances, but is always good for an enough 3 found Benares infinitely health,
happiness. wealth, and
I did meet my first Tibetan. He dve rupees. more interesting. Every day strong children. The same was one of the hundreds who
down to the things you pray for in Henceforth," wrote Edward thousands scurry
your swarmed over em, ter the world be divided banks
the Himalayan of the Ganges to bathe country.
passes when the Chinese have been vitten See" le rust forward un
into tam classes them as has in the waters. Many actually Today
India has progressed invaded Tibel. from the bullock cart age into Now seen the Taj Mahal and them clean their teeth in it.
he was living in arm pauctured with little blue
He was getting married, he said "Actually," tie as hasa't."
the bicycle age. holes. Bes
And whereas foothills just outside Katmandu, said, in two weeks' time. It bad panion, an Indian business man, in the '40s the expectation of coming into market only occa- all been arranged. The girl had danger. We love the antidote
it is 47. sionally. Hiranth thrust a cobra at me.
bern picked by his parents. we But the task of holding
as it appears. The Ganges,
My interpreter from the botel behind the neck.
A nearby guide was mumble have discovered, contains radio- million people most of whom said the Tibetans bathed only if he had mouth was forced ing away the usual tourist stuff am.! Sarm fanes revealed.
once every 10 years and I saw matter? abon how long the Taj Mahaictive substances which give it live in squalor:
This explados whom sleep powera. "The Ines grow again," he took to build and how much it curative
reason to disbelieve him. said Che must be careful."
ever one is st, but I was not interested. Why no
from it." It
the best
from IL. suppose
The important thing, j
I cannot, says Nehru, be left sation with me, me standing up snake-homing exhibiti
Further away were the bura- was that here seemed to me,
enterprise, which hove
tomb the
Empress ing ghats
dead
"You know Queen?" believes in the monstrous philo- cremated in the open and sophy North Mumlaz-i-Mahal, buil!
between are 1632 and 1650 by the their ashes cast into the Ganges, lte Boeus min very
who loved her Shah Benares is a holy city, and Nehru steers the Jeban, Fifth Mogul Emperor of many believe that to die there wards Socialism.
means to pass on to & higher Incarnation. So the city is per- Great lies in a tomb live miles manently full of old people. Devil dances
anxiously awaiting the end. "I hav becn F201 expensive nothing as magnificent 25 the The burning ghats show. Ar aid, "iye of cur Taj Mahal, but I And he did gruesome sight. But less shock- I made one side trip while be people. A Command Per- leave this bit of advice ing perhaps than the Parsee I was here that I will not easily formance,
funerals in Bombay, where the forget to Katmandu in Nepal,
so that m-
open
came
No dved the University of Snake
Car Top
people from all over the place- Cluna,
- learn how to TB 20 Ceylon catch snekes. extraci their poleon, and charm them
year They hud seed steak.
apparentis, bu then 1oft
Nehru's Pitcai
A
mane 1 an election Posit
110
"How call you she Government which kans zerzet
Cow
tourists a cleBenger
Next day stuks de hope&tand from the Aloka mem
Friend here were most anxious that ) should scr a fair cross-seu dien of India Delhi, Benares, Calcutta. Wilh Of
have ever seen them Afme
~RAL and
all
Over
A
He himself had been working with snake, since he was eight.
Hena rany snakes were there There W.X 121 thr &”4RTT" About 1,000), per and they
ond python. stakes o everythi Snake charmers went out frem tur ear-wheels. his village to work and towel: A: Thu clos 11 all over India. Would I care to see a performance?
would
White
sat cross-legged an The bed, five of his top practi-
NOW-
take
E
good look!
RONSON
H.ranth
Well, he had something. really is a stunning sight.
أحمد
It is not as by a business life was only 32, tooting 440
exezpl Judia.
His grandfather Akbar The
[ Sikandra. He left
course, demanden money.
& Wi
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Ages 15. A. KETEER & COLLAD,
behind
where Hindu
thousands of in the streets in o
10
I wished him luck and asked had any say in the
"None," he said, "but then, 90 per cent of marriages
infected places like Calcutta-is gigantic. This was the Tibetan's conver India are still arranged by
В are
GREAT ANIMAL STORIES,
ONE of the most delightful animal books of recent [years was Seal Morning Hutchinson), from which this :s on extract. In it, Rowena Farre described o child- hood in a remote croft in Sutherlandshire, where she lived with her Aunt Miriam and Lare, her pet seal
SINCE ancient
times
it has been known that seals are attracted
by music and singing. They have perhaps the largest
vocal range
among mammals.
Their
reportoire
includes
grunts, sneris, barks, peculiar mewing, bisses, and a wail that often rises from a deep bass to
a treble.
Lora's musical talent carne out early. When I played a simple time al a fairly
bars of steadily
| Nace with
slow
ascending and descending
notes she made valiant efforts
to follow the music in a tuneless
wail.
Within a week she was able
Imagine
having
to play
private 10
proft"
of grand and private So slowly but surely
Fis country
to
wind:
"No." NO.
"You know Brigitte Bardot?" "Yes." "Which better?"
I said I didn't know. He then grinned widely, revealing giant blackened fangs, and dug into some his pocket bringing out uncooked rice and meat which he handed to me.
I told him I would ent it later, and he went happily
by ROWENA FARRE
DRAWING BY BARRY DRISCOLL
•JUNIOR *DULCIBEL"
second fiddle to a seal!
Black S
to get through Baa-baa
Boy withcul
Sheep and Danny
a break, and was beginning to his home outside
learn Where My Caravan Has Rested.
ότι
in
the parents.
"The women I am to marry obedient and good I will grow? to love her. In India we belleve that if a marriage does not beg with great passion then it can not end with great hatred "We shall be content."
He dropped me off at the hotel and I gave him the extra- five rupees, as he knew I would. Then I went in to packs my, bags,
Now I'm off to Bangkuk
London Express Service.
centre The caravan had ap parently got loose from its moor- ings and was rushing towards a head-on collision.
There was a loud crash as the xylophone fell to the floor, pushed off by Lora's exuberant playing. The audience rose to its feet.
After a short pause in which to recover their breath, people uttered more fulsome exclama- tiona of delight; "Marvellous, Isn't she?"
The melodeon player got up He did not appear too happy at having to follow such a popular performer began to realise Why professional actora SO heartily dislike children and enimals taking part in a play, when they are around nobody else gets a look in,
His misgivings proved to be CUITECT He failed as lament- ably-to-make an impression in competition with the loudly singing Lora as had the first performer.
With
*:
great good humour he walked back to his seat defeated and Lora again took the plar- form this time
to mouth organ.
play
After supper I made up my mind to take things in hand little
For my part. I very much wanted
to hear the melodeon..... player in action. but if the the evening
of Aberdeen, Uncle, as the first artist took her being stage-managed by others. second half where local talent used to per- place at the far end of the room, She was lifted bodily on to the followed the trend of the first She also began to pester me form. Uncle Andrew became that I should shut Lera into his top of the piano by two stalwart that pleasure seemed unlikely to for my mouth organ, but found obsessed with the idea that Lore study until it was her turn to males so that the audience would be fulfilled. to her annoyance that it emitted should be a guest
He arrived perform.
110
sound in spite of being one evening in his ghawed with vigour.
brake to
collect her and me.
She gave a loud sigh of des- We set off early the following peration. This produced a blast morning I had packed twp
Veto
managed
to sing a
get a good view of her, and the xylophone was placed before her. I stood by her side, ready to polat to the notes, in case she should be overcome by a sudden
Wails
While the rest were busy eat- nveigle Lora into Uncle
The study most unfortunately
blowing and sucking feebly; in a to enjoy the ride of the ceilidh any bid Hebritten few noter or on Bag-ban Black Sheep. The the music started her plexus1
1 had left her.
visiting us sent her a toy trun A well-known s singer of mouth chorus would not have been able now?". pet. Lora soon learnt to render music (unaccompanied singing) to compete with that, and the
and
of noise from the mouth organ suitcases, one ontaining my But he and several of the fit of nerves at the sight of so me and talking I managed to and galvenised Lora to fresh belongings, the other Lora's guests veloed this suggestion at large an audience and momen Andrew's study and close the efforts I set off for a walk. Instruments, and her mackintosh once. She must stay.
tarily forget her plece. When I returned in about an The brake bounced over the The singer smiled charmingly. My presence proved unneces- door on her. hour Lura had learnt the blow track, but Lora took the bumps and started off with the assur Bary. She took the beater from suck method and there she was, and jolt's calmly and appeared ance of a professional. She me and started off with aplomb Wes not soundproof and, when state of almost complete on the
air before the audience strained forward. Walls at being excluded from exhaustion, for she had been I led her inting
Things
"drew?" the the drawing-routs inevitable happened: Lore rained calight murmurs of "Yes, I re- the doing this apparently, ever since where it was to be held bly ber head and fored her way cognised that bit."
of the guests Dome- feelings about the forthcoming from deep bass to a seal top
incredible.
glong at once to let her A young friend of mine, after proceedings were dublous Ch Even a full Covent Garden isn't she playing Danny Boya hal attempt to
**Quite
keep No. I'm sure she m't. ent-spliting blasts on this when was comirky and had consented singer wisely gave up there and perhens the tight bend told her severely to be quiet it was held for her to start the evening with a song, then
The audience were hysterical Anal slither of the beater along Another admirer sent her a malodeon player was to fake
KARANG Ae van Loud applause greeted the asistive free flowing ter small xylophone complete with the platform next followed by with laughter, They had not the length of the Instrument dusts and the patch Bidin beater she would holds the Lora elving an exhibition of heard anything as good as that which denoted the end of Danny immediately below the eyes beater In Her front teelle rides lophone playing. That war to for a long while her
Makaryad Boy and was followed by bang пру noto fo
comprise the mist half of the When a certain amonitor vociferolie calis for an encore, bodily ristorov
with Tristratich at th pointed
had been restored someone Ostry on d Undle, beat belt awed to as per ller set-ikposed practising there would be a break for suggested til Lasa be allowed any in
pouring down har there various Instruments throyal supper. During the second half, to perform arat and the human thought, the front row, pop with un almost to distraction at times, ansonges other extractions. Lora faction Inter that she would fat sisting of the other prospective It became necessary to put them warto ang to pay plano her lite act off her chest and performers looked a bine dissing in which I need tardly
The evening finished with out of her reach and allow zer
kubra started to arrays, "It was blatantly: oppurent
曲
order I made her sit by my side. The result
no legs
Scals
W
t
[to play them, only for short Bo fer good, for willing to listen to others courred at the way tilaga: were, hay, Lora olkmans the rest of us.
1 announced Where ya taas mured by Uncle
periods in te vender Lus, the wood
At undle of solder went to hold, troverted vorentoerted decisiver, busty that he got on to a spaced and
ked to pha was out of my ? kind whicing notes left viYLE