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THE CHINA MAIË MASATURDAY, OCTOBER 21, 1961.
LOGAN GOURLAY Dateline: Paris
(Signed) FOR THE AWSKYBADOS
The Norman conquest of M. Borel-winning France for the hamburger
Paris.
WITH a docility that is surprising and uncharacteristic, the French are submitting themselves to a revolution. It is a gastronomical revolution, a coup de table. So it is of major significance in a country where food is of more importance than anything except politics.
The lender of the revolution. is a 34-year-old Norman called Joeqties Borel Single-handed he has set out to reform the French eating habils—to sterm the Bastille la carte.
And so far he is triumphant, He is, it garues me, to report, converting the French to the hamburger,
When he started, the experts sud "We French have an abhawrence for minced meat. 11
'I WAS ALWAYS
CERTAIN I WOULD
MAKE A FORTUNE
uvvupled 22 (imys,"
should only be used for stulting a mind like an arrow with an means each chair and slool was or garnishing." Some of them unerring aim for gala. consklered themselves wils, ou they added: "Nut to mince wards, you are doomed fatlure,"
Doughty
He opened his first hamburger
Appropriately, M. Borel, after 10 heaven in Paris a few months graduating from business col- po. I Nourished immediately, inge, started his career working Now he has five, open day and with a large firm which makes might in Paris and serving ham adaufg machines. But he de burgers as fast as they can be caled it offered a limited future. mage, which, according to liăn,
"s approximately IWO per He drovered that the che- minute, or 120 an hour.
zule: and food industry offeret
But Burel is a doughly Not - It he had fought at znan, Agincourt, us his ancestors did,
the greatest opportunities for he would not have admitted de- "Last Sunday we had a record Lxpansion in France. feat. 1 as ainly face with day th one of the places, In
a black moustache like an in- few hours we made over 4,000 He opted verted faut bow, He also has new trunes-about 1350, That years
عايزان
restaurant. Three years later,
19MARIOS
29.GU.196" 11.ERTRE 18 ENTRATA &
THE ENGAGEMENT is announced of Duke Sosthene de la Rochefoucauld, a member of one of France's historic families, to Irene de Luart, 'grand- daughter of the Duke de Bisaccia.
the
The duke is 64. His fiancee is 26.
Making the most memorable remark of the week, the duke says - "I'm sure. she is not too old for me.'
fourteenth century every
fourth generation of my family Gascon
itus
produced someone who nado a fortune. One of my
after learning an be ancestors made it from slaves, the business ("specially how to avoid being cheated, by the whether from shows. We have staff" he launched a compzey nissed for the Inst three to open Paris's trat cafeterias generations. So I am keeping
and self-service mack-bars,
Up the tradition.
Normans have always
Today he has six, plus 18 canteens, which he operates in had a head for business. We large factories, plus the ave say that we like to live close to hamburger heavens.
the farthing."
M. Borel, who has an insati- He laughed able appetite for statisties, told laugh. me: "When I started I reckoned that the French food industry was capable of expansion to a fimover of six billion new france per annum-about £400
allion.
D
Millions
ence,
a sharp,
Siesta
loud
Oliver's
reluctant decision
I
MUST add thankfully,, as an honest footnote, that
I met M. Borel for dinner.
not in a snack-bar but in
He now works close to his one of the threo-star restau- millons from 8 am to 8.30 pm rants, Le Grand Vefour. every day except Sunday. Ie There are only four in Paris has J strict timetable with specified hours for correspond. awarded this distinction.
It is owned by Monsieur interviews, conferences
upsland- and 15 minutes for siesta after Raymond Oliver, an
Gascon who has lunch-In one of his own estab- ing bearded
few rivals ns the greatest expert shments, of course,
on food and wine in France.
But even he is contributing to ile is experi-
"This year my company will have a turnover of 20,000,000 new francs, Next year 30,000,- now francs. By 1975 1 estimate A turnover
He of 700
never smokes, seldom francs. Of about drinks, and constantly plans the revolution.
new enterprises. He said: "Next menting with, of all things, fro- year I am opening a luxury zen food and to opening u
million new £50,000,000.
that interests and exelles me, are thetory to make and pre-home and the foreign be excel- It 19 building up a business restaurant. Many more if it factory which will make it in succeeds. I am also building a large quantities supply the not just making mones, which i pare all the food for the snack- "But at least it will be would not know how to spend.
lent food inade to my recipe. And when we have ver- Then I want to organise a fected the freezing formula 1 મ small would make a fortune. From supply of sandwiches and snacks will be as good as the food I
for food and five "But I was always certain I
opened
This shameful thing
BY the time I was elected to the LCC this year, it was all over bar the weeping. I had at once asked to be put on the Town Planning Com- mittee.
I was lucky. But at my very first committee meeting it be- came clear that irrevocable steps had been taken.
The LCC had "whole-heartedly supported"
every sluge
we are
are doing
to St. Paul's
BY LUCILLE IREMONGER
Thundering buses shake
to
scheme, the first fruits of Bs very altars. At its fest lies which illed nie with dinay, a qualid bazaar.
As for a St Paul's was concern- "Wasteful, these English!" 49 ed, if this was a fair sample of the Chinaman sald un seeing the what was to conie, we hid bentnik girl sitting in the dust-
mutted it again.
bin, "We would not have thrown that 013€ away for It used to be said of the Turks another five years!" that they were surprised afresh This desecration, we had each year by the coming of win hoped, would at last be un- ter. Must we, too, always fall done. For Hitler gave us a to perceive the pattern repeated second chance. Miraculously before aur eyes?
his bombs failed to destroy
Three hundred-odd years the Cathedral, bat swept 11 ago the Great Fire devastated free of much encroaching the old Clothle Cathedral which had stood on the top of Ludgate ugliacsa.
Hill since Norman times.
And had not the Minister saldų
in March, 1955, as he approved
It gave us an opportunity the London Development Plan,
to build another, fit to com- that he hoped for a truly pare with the finest in worthy sottine for Wren's Europe.
famous Cathedral?” Had he not marked out a "precinctat zone?" Had he not himself Jooked over the shoulder of Sir William Holford?
Ruined
What a site! In the heart of
n capital city, on a bill, on the banks of a mighty river!
Wren buin V3
Cathedral.
↓
noble
Monster
Yet in 109s we find him one
too happily gazing at the plan But before he could lay the for the uren north of St Paul's, foundations a creeping blight of chock-u-block with modern
50,
A VIEW OF ST. PAUL'S -'Wo REC
now busy undoing the rood work
done by the
Luftwaffe."
Of course, space le expensive, new buildings
between
It is the measure of the soul Newgate-street and the Cathed-
phops had ruined the Betting. buildings, offices, shops and flats. of a mercantile people whether rat, which has for months mude He was even forced to slew we and trying to chop down the they are prepared to give their my dreams hideous. building round on its former height of one 260ft. monster. grand bulldings space. The taxas to fun into the cramped He realices, even an he does Venetians, those great mer- You will not be able to no
space left to him.
not that what comes off one chants, did
Krudye St on to the site and there look All hope of a grand approach block: mus! go on to another. Mark's its square yet think of your last upon the entire north was lost, and from no viewpoint "Especially if, he hopes"- the development value of land face of the cathedral hefure it could his masterpiece be sera lo re it is conveyed to the LCC at the entrance of the Grand is obscured once again. proper advantage.
"the total Boor space in this Canal! part of the precinet is not to be reduced."
Did the Minister really think that he could have his floor Today, nu we stand in Ludgate space and a worthy setting? Circun, what splendid perspective meela the eye? A dirly slab of green steel rullway bridge,
Fussy
An we walk on un Latdgain
, what unfold before unt
A mean, fussy strool of second rale offices and shops.
And the cathedral at the top Wo can see only eno shoulder of the main facada,
It is not until we round tin
Space
hotch potch of buildings with To replace ike crumbling
baking blocks is picking up a these brash, new, everlasting-
animajo kili a stlek,
All
bar..
own
which will be sold at all the serve here. Or almost as good. petrol stations in France, 1 am Now there is a large demand also about to try a mobile for frozen food and it la not snack-bar which will go to enough to concentrate on my the race-tracks and football restaurant."
matches.
He told me this with a certain Badness in his fringed omlls—a reluctant bow to the inevitable,
Sadness
"Nobody has really tried be- fore to change the eating habity in France. I have already shown you can do it-if you provide good food and servicį. Fur
Monsieur Oliver, example, It la not the old- fashioned American-style hum- ravished the palates of burger I am seiling. It is only Colette, Jean
celebrities including the the best meat and it is not cock- Simenon, also
ed in grease.
who
Jins many lato
Cocteau, ond told me with sadness that recently he had to "Eventually I will have a tender to the Spanish throne, turn away Don Juan, the Pre- shain all over France."
and ex-King Feter of Yugo So the revolution spreads. But available in the restaurant.
slavia. There were no tables
there
st! many Alerce I got the impression, but he opponents. Apostles of reaction, They include a few Cornmunist that he would not have been was much too pallte to say so, depatlas-the richer ones who desolate if he had been forced dine and talk politics every to turn night in the plutocratic three king. star restaurants.
away the hamburger
(London Exprasa Service).
A British Crossword Puzzle
22
13
19
111
5
16
8
12
14 15
16 117
18 19
20
21
22
23 24
25
26 27
28
29
130
31
32 33
34 35
36
37
38
39
40
ACROSS
DOWN
All of refuset 5 In a receiveri D Drink. 10 Conscious.
· 1 Gave way.
2 This is t
11 Budden blows, along Newgate-street 13 It can't bear being thin We could pay for the space your eye, seeking your cathe13 Achleve. in time we could even dignify There is not even a peephole 18 Sels up. If we wanted it badly enough, dral, will be repelled by a 14 Colour.
gh, stout, wooden ience.
10 Sort of wood in work att the whole ot Ludgate "Hi, when we open up St Paul's in it, such as rome construction 21 Skirting. Churchyard. Far from doing englacera offer to the idle gazer 23 Horse for a nativet that, we are now buay undoing and this is your buleness
al other people's business-23 Livo-stock.
the good work done by the Luftwaffe on the north,
Look well
"
What we, want around St people to pay the price of a
top mercenary Are wo corner and stand upon its focs Paul's, and all around 8t proper setting for our Cathe- Inst discernible, Discernible,
29 A besiert
31 Meal.
14 Trouble.
Ori
On the contrary. daunting notice: Keep out Guard Patroll"
30 Girl nice enough to eat? 37 Flinch. Those dogs are awake. But 30 Definite article. the guard dogs who hould 30 Wide open spacet have kept this elto unaneumb 40 Bullock. ered as a contribution towards
It bears 21 Creature made of wood? "Danger! Doga
the Minister spoke, for
3 Had a break,
4 For sticking cheap jewellery?
It's not ungramninilcalf
¤ Curve.
7 Maintain,'
& Destroy,
19 Sharp Uke an accent.
17 Pasture.
It never really newl
20 Volatite girl7
22 Since.
24 Tax returns
25 A washer?
27 Make reparation,
28 Winners break them.
20 Bellow.
30 She's never. Intel
33 Hur!.
30 Enjoy that crazy gardening?
that a full and dirvet view is at Paul's, is what Wren's males. deni? Must we apall the thin that worthy setting of which a Regents, D Grid, 11 Coup, 12 Nipun, that is, if we back Into the c. classical Cathedral de for a he'purth of ter? entrance to a cobbler's slicy and manda, mot floor space but Imquint achingly up at It,
*pace.
Look well, at the, model, Just made publle, of proposed
YESTERDAY'S
CROSSWORD-Across 3 Shipper, 7 Rotate, 16 Sons, 10 Stent, 17 London, for all the world, and Down: 1 Frog, a Flagons, 3 Strip, 4 feed, Premises, a Resent, Posts, 16 Rest, 10 Bust, 21' Rebuked, 22 Adores, 23 Danaity. for all time, havo overalept,"
16 Rostrums, 11 Coo, 13 Pesters, 14 Dat, 10. Spared, 19 Nuddy, 19 Dent, 20 Fish.
~(London Express Bervice).