SP
ANGUS MCGILL CASTS A HUMOROUS EYE
AT WHAT COULD WELL BE A TAILOR'S NIGHTMARE
I'm looking backwards at fashion... mainly for men
cuffs and then flared slightly,
The twenty-first century should see us back in the clothes of the Middle Ages. And why not? They were comfortable, sensible and comely. We could do a great deal worso,
JOHN COLE took the pictures
IXTY arduous years of writing Mainly for Men The sleeves narrowed ot the have left me hale, hearty and 93. My memory We wore Regency shoes with is happily unimpaired and I had some good advice square toes, Regency hats with for you on how to grow old and keep your wits crowns and tightly up- did no good. Men showed their but I can't remember what it was.
curled brima,
These have been eventful years for men's TO0 POPULAR clothes. As the present has got steadily more disagreeable the tailors have gone more and more deeply into the past for their inspiration until- well just look how we are dressed today.
I vividly
Tem'è m -
ber how it all
began. It was
in the far-off
Arites.
strange,
that
Un-
easy ilme be-
fore the occu-
pation of the
planets.
Sir Thomas Steele then Just plain
Tommy Was beginning his career and The Mouse- trap, now in
its 60th year,
was just get
ting into its
stride.
The Arst
luok
back-
wards was a
smoli
one
Greatly
dar
ing.
the
tailors
pro-
duced the Ed-
wordian took.
It had its
day and then suddenly it was
over,
killed by that certain 29-
Jussin
DI
fashion, popularity. The Teddy Sadly we waistcoats
Boys took it over,
Inid our fanicy
Ical.
and
Next, in the early sumbre 'sixties, the allors introduced first the Victorian Inok then, when that falled, the Regency look. This one was a huge success.
we
had Our
By the end of 1902 become Regency bucks. trousera hid narrowed further, so tight now that they were cut to follow the shape of the leg. Men with calves were
The 1982 Look. Give them
halt a chance and the tailors will have us dressed like Covoliers, all bows, slashes and lace. The teenagers of the period will
be known as Charlies,
delighted. Men without them said that things had gone fou for this time.
legs once morethis time snug- ly clothed in nylon hose.
would not monsieur prefer meet
a younger
said.
lady?"
DELIGHT
Uncle
to
"This is not yet widely known he here so don't you go writing any)
dumn-fool tommy-rot about it," he said. "Don't want everyone guzzling it."
I have been guzzling myself with some delight this week. It is a lovely wine, a beautifully
Peregrine balanced wine, a wine for special
Henry VIII wasn't much good at putting up with things. 1 can't understand how he put up
his with
clothes. However, This was the most elegant they saw us into the 21st cen male fashion for generations, tury and it was a great relief But, in time, it too hecame too when. 15 years ago, the Tailor popular. A new generation of and Cutter ushered, us Into the Moines 1957, one of the fine a nobleman called Baron Brin-
Middle Ages.
teenagers became known as the Brum Boys, perhaps after Beau Brummell, er possibly because the greatest excesses in this, as in 30 much else, appeared in Birmingham.
So, in desperation the fallora looked even further back and, in 1071 produced the Early Georgian look.
M'glared at
glass
The wine is produced in vine- of La Roche aux yarda ai Savennieres, ruled by
card. Long may he reign.
-Loniton Express Service?.
After being overdressed for white wines of Anjou. more than a decade it was a sweet relief to be able to go to the office in tights and a simple colehardie. This slim, sensible (unic,
Directors
hip length and buttoned H.E. Rt. Hon. The Lord Burden down the front was cheap,
C.B.E. J.P. (Chairman) comfortable and comely,
P. Wilson.
Bul this too became passe and here we are, back in the styles Animal Husbandry Consultant of the Stone Age. None of the tailors doing either.
Trousers were banished. It was a sensation at the time and many of us refused to obey. The associations were 100 dear. We I suppose I shouldn't grombie, had-Worn trousers through good times and bad, and they had never let us down, We would not lightly throw them aside.
But in time even the diehards bought their first pair "{ breeches and long white stock ings and thus attired we facel the troubled seventies.
But as crisis succeeded crisis the clothes of George I no longer seemed adequate for the times. So, about 1982, 1: Was succeeded by the Cavalier look, As Cavallers we felt we could fare whslever the planeta handed out
It's
surprising We haven't reached this stage much sooner. But the furs of wild beasts itch and are hard and dangerous to come by.
And bare legs aren't welcome when you reach my age. Some- times, when 1 sleep, I dream of
trousers.
INDIGNANT
RECENTLY met an
I Englishman m P
with galety and who in tones of high moral
panache. But by 1995
situation had become
that measures
the indignation, told me the fol
O grave
of an unprece- lowing story....
dented gravity were essential.
He had been sitting in a
The tailors of England rase, boulevard cafe, he said, and hadi
as always, to the occasion. They produced the Tudor look.
noticed that two elderly women
at a neighbouring table
he envied but could not identity.
in
A. J. Miller, M. R. A. C.
Plo Farm Monegament and Agricultural Consultant H. Miller
Farme thepector
W. G. CasO
General Administration
D. G. Wilson
Office Manager Oldney K. Mann.
FARM ADDRESSES
"Willowdana" Farm,. (Special Fattening Unit) Ford End,
Ivinghos, Bucks.
Chapel Hill Farm, Haslingfield, Cambridge, Cambridgeshiro,
were
Glen Moor Farm,
Tolleshunt Major,
like
Nr. Maldon, Essex.
It was the end of breaches drinking 2 long iced concoction and again there was furore, Thu Establishment rose
He called a waiter and, point- anger, Dame Rita Tushingham Ing discreetly, said: "Nd caused a rumpus in the Lords. one of those, please," John Osborne, OM, wrote
The waiter's eyes opened wide letter from the Bahamas. It with interest and surprise. "But
JACOBY BRIDGE
-on
Jackets, which had grown shorter again, got very much longer,
Jack brond NORTH'S takeout double and the They had shoulders and shaped waists,
A British Crossword Puzzle
6
$7
18
4
9
10
11
12
13
14
115
16
18 19
120
₤21
22
23 24
125
26 27
28
30
131
32 33
34 35
36
139
37
38
[40
spades under
nt South's one
The queen of no-trump bid South's king and correct. There spades under North's acc. Then were erlaently was also nothing wrong with he could not have been thrown [the two, and thres no-trump in the lead, and East would bids, except that North and have made itve tricks with his South cach held the rock bottom, bust hand. minimum, so that the Arial con- track was doubtful, to say the least,
V+CARD Serisen♦
Falling to do this, he still could have saved the day Inter inis by simply letting ong of South wun
the third the opening din- High spades go on amond to duomy, came to his heart lead, band with the king of spades, lcd the queen uf hearts and played dummy's see when the queen was cover.d, cashed two linore hearts and oled that East's nico spot was new the top heart. He then finessed dummy's queen of clubs, cashed both black nces and threw West in the lead with the queen, South had eight tricks In, and since West was down to
20
NORTH
ABSZ VABTS +44 #AQO
WEST (D) AQJT VR4
AJ 13952
EAST
10904 ❤9052
7
1983
SOUTH 4K2
K
North A
Double Para
The bidding has been:
Exat South West Pass Pass
2 Pass 24 Pass
3
?
You, South, hald: AK963 563 $752 4812
What do you do?
A---Bid three spades. You have shown notblog op to this point. TODAY'S QUESTION West and North pass and East bids four hearts. What do you do now?
Answer on Monday
POCKET CARTOON BY FRIELL
Old Tree House Farm, Hoath,
Canterbury, Kent.
Woodside Farm,
Maltmans Hill,
Smarden, Kent.
A.B.A. Farm. Quaenedown Estate, Woodchurch, Birchington, Kent,
Bursland Farm, Claphill Road, Gravenhurst, Bedfordshire,
Bitt View Farm, Lower Btook Road, Wext Hanningfold, Exox.
Church House Farm, Baydon, Wiltshire,
Meadow Farm,
Stradbroke, Norfolk,
New Buildings Farm, Holbeach at. Marka, Lincolnshire.
The Dungalow, Marsham-le-Fen, Lincolnshire.
THOUSANDS OF BUSINESSES
HAVE CUT ACCOUNTING COSTS WITH BURROUGHS
SENSIMATIC MACHINES!
The time-tested, profit- saving advantages of these machines can be equally beneficial to your business. Simple
operate, Bur roughs Sonsimatica handle all types of figurework and provide accurate, up-to- the-minute records in less time, atsubstantial savings,
Burroughs Bonsimatio Accounting Machine
Burroughs Typing Benalmatio
Accounting Machine
CALL YOUR
Burroughs
MAN
For Information, phone or visit:
BORNEO SUMATRA TRADING CO. (HK) LTD,
Business Machines Department, 20-23 Caxton House, Duddoll Št. H.K. Tel. 27105.
ANGLIAN PIG BREEDERS
Props: Introductions, Ltd. Livestock Dealers Incorporated 1951
26/36 Shaftesbury Avenue, Piccadilly, London W.1 England.
SOW, LITTER AND YOU
You can cash in off our Pig Breeding develop- ment with guaranteed profits which bring a for better return on your money than is average.
Multiple breeding spread over the Home Counties is scientifically planned to reduce production costs. Indeed, many of Britain's largest specialist pig breeders are among our clients.
As pointed out in a recent B.B.C. European Broadcast concerning our company, our systems of breeding pigs for the public is "very original and profitable to pig owners".
Our proposition is this:
We will register you as the owner of pedigree breeding sows of championship class and line for breeding at our combined breeding and fattening Model Danish Piggeries at Ivinghoe, Buckingham- shire, and will pay you a fixed price for the litters farrowed, which will guarantee profit returns at above average rate. You will receive payment of fixed profits at six monthly intervals, together with a certified account. The sows are fully insured against all mortality risks by arrangement with
leading Insurers who recognise our high standard of efficiency, management and production.
It is not possible to give full details here but if you are interested in participating on a minimum outlay of £100.0.0d, please write or telephone our local agents:
PACIFIC AGENCIES CO., LTD. 403, Hing Wai Building.. Queen's Road Central.
Telephones - 36201, 33184, 20008.
Telephone
Gerrard 1618 (3 lines)
Gerrard 6309
Regent 2040
Regent 2047
Cheddington (Leighton Huzzard) 328
(Farmore Advisory Barvico) Telegrama
"Piggibank Lesquare LONDON. W. 1
Cables
"Piggibank, London W. 1
FARM ADDRESSES
Houghton Tower, Horncastle Road, Woodhall Sps, Lincolnshire.
Toombs Farm, Brookfield, Combridgeshire.
Fairfields Farm, Wellsyke Lane, Woodhall Spa, Lincolnshire.
Nelson Lane Farm, Haddenham Nr. Ely, Cambridgeshire,
Brick & Tile Farm, Great Wigborough Nr. Colchester, Essex.
Orchard Farm., Bandoro Leno, Bouth Park, Reigate, Burroy,
Chatley Farm, Midford Stoke,
Limpley Stoke,
Bath,
Bomerect.
"
Bradley Road Farm,
98 Crockerton, Warminster, Wilta,
Park Farm, Bury Road, Haughley,
Nr, Stowmarket, Suffolk,
Bealesbrook Farm, Upper. Hofton, Halesworth.
Suffolk
ACROSS
1 Shoots a line.
6 Plant.
Get outdo
10 Hirsute,
11 Supple.
12 Strike.
13 Time a persont
14 Deposit.
10 Wood.
10 Constricted.
21 The gallery.
23 Sight advantage.
20 Fish that siceps?
20 Agreement.
at it's rally.
32 A cooler
34 Everybody,
30 Cable holder.
BT Bird-brainst
30 Youth.
30 Exhauled.
40 Turns brownt
DOWN
1 Are owned.
2 It's heaven-sentl
Wool
No one vulnerablo
North East Borth
Double Pazz
1 N.T.
TASH
2 NT. Par
INT,
Pars
3 Be there.
4 Very thin.
6 Zodiac sign.
6 Period.
7 Kind to do office work?
Ù Injure.
15 Feel your way.
17 Forcaler's record?
19 Query.
20 Minute.
22 Don't settlel
24 They do boring work.
25 Corrects.
27 A little land.
20 You've got one!
20 Tubers.
30 What the wise cat?
23 Layer of paint.
13 Ha1à not all therol
YESTERDAY'S CROSSWORD. - Across 3 Clipped, 1 Needle, & Attempt, 0 Asps, 11 Wils, 12 Dards, 15 Pole, 16 itet, 17 Loter, 18 Dent, 19 Fads, 21 Cabinet, 23 Tennis, 23 Dangles. Down: Snub, 2 Detalls, 3" Clips, 4 Lets, 0 Prepared, 0 Delest, 10 Blooring, 11 Woo, 13 Rinsing, 14 Dot, 18 Placed, 10′ Dates, 15 Fete, 20 Last.
PARE PARE
Opening Tead—♦ J
diamonds, he had to give Soulh
his ninth trick in that sull
West, could havo benten 10: band in two ways. To start with, ho could have dropped
Chess News
By LEONARD BARDEN
Solution No. 0113 : 1 ... - KL? chi; 2 KXQ, KL-DE "Av. eh K-Kli, ki-ng mata or Kixa mate.
Landon Veprasa Katrics
Dr.
"in the old days, Heinrich, we could have solved this prohlam honourably. Adenauer would have BUITM mondu Kennedy Berchtesgaden while
to tod
prepared a little billskrieg i
London Zaprešo Borsten,