THE CHINA MAIL, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 6, 1961.
WOMANSENSE
THE CHANGING SHAPES OF FASHION
Romantic line from Italy
antonelli
linea altalena
Tendency sketches from the Italian illustrate a new fluidly romantic line.
LADY
your
collection
LUCK
CHINA MAIL
horoscope
FRIDAY, OCTOBER 6
AQUARIUS (January 21- February 191: Try not to monopolise the Conversa- tion this weekend and pay more attention to what others have to say.
PISCES (February 20-March 20): An evening party will get off to a slow start, but will gather momentum the night progresses.
114
ARIES (March 21-April 19):
Avoid making any substan tial cash outlay until you have checked your Snancial | records.
TAURUS (April 20-May 201: A domestic responsibility may prevent you from ac- cepting an Invitation for u short journey.
GEMINI (May 21-June 21):
The resignation of 4
-little furs
from France
THE trend
toward
more feminine clothes for autumn looks timid beside the all-out romanticism of the Ita- lian collections.
Fuller, rounded shoulders, newly voluminous sleeves and much fur trim mark day clothes, while evening gowns ure frankly "great lady" in their use of furred and em- broidered velvet.
by
LUCETTE
CARON
Fabrles, of course, are always the star of Italian collections. Wools are supple and flecey, of alry and dry, while soft brushed types like shetland and camel's hair make sults. For evening. favourite fabrics are brocades, matelasse, velvet, cut velvet, crepe and chiffon. Usually even- ing dresses are jewelled or em- broidered, In many glowing colours.
Body Hines are sinuous, with waistlines everywhere. Klæber Some are placed up under the arma and flare from there to the hem. Others lightly follow the line of the body to the thigh, then widen gently to the hem. Collars are not only back, they are large, upstanding, framing the face romantically, eighteenth-century La an
manner. They are particular- by dashing on capes, which are often double, also in the Hals follow eighteenth-century fashion.
Capes, in fact, are all over the place. Every designer shows theni for both day and evening, often with brief, wide sleeves, in which cuff-warmers can be set for cokler climates than Italy.
Dresser are still generally slim, but follow the romantie mood in n return to draping, cowl necklines and blousing low en the hips in order to keep the waistline deflued.
Longer skirts
Despite very short skirts on the streets of Rome. couture designers hemlines for autumn cover the knees. The knee-high skirt doesn't sult the elegant, romantic clothes mood.
Italian Accessories highlight the trend to elaborate unlique jewellery, already noted here in imports. Cascade jewellery, gold fringe And taskels, decorate many afternoon and evening dresses. Suit pins are eften large cascade types.
the romantic trend in using plushy fabrics,
•
Coot dress from Jacques Heim uses a slow curve, subtle colour of anthracita in wool. Diagonal wrap-around with sido fastening and fringed wool collar.
Paris
designers
have
Jean
Autumn holi from Jean Patou of Paris reveal half the head, tilt or drops for flattery, Left, a side-tilted boret for late-day, in deep pink satin porches a pink camellia at front. Right, draped turban of blue and silver gauzo in wom
woll back, with cloud dorcending to the shoulders.
PATOU'S AUTUMN HATS
coloured jewellery, the subbued:HE Paris couture house of Jean Paton has always
⠀
ichness of jet looks newly chic. T Army endorsed Hellire
in jewellery, with caviar bends extremes to which other designers have gone. The same replacing mumbo bends when: gues for hats. Patou doesn't like what he calls "the hard making blb or many-strand look" of hats that completely conceal the hair. necklaces. Since clothes have a = daintler, more feminine look the For this season, Patou endorses the half-covered lank, flexible use of tiny booda la Many hats are like chignons, baring the front of the head. more graceful
complement.
Even large huts are worn well back with the brims fram- They are often done in grey or bronze, rather than bright golding the face and snuggling close to the nape of the neck. Paris hats recognize the dominance of the open neck- Fur pleces include the ubiqul-line and are styled and sized to fit within that framework inalde the Materials range from soft velours and shaggy melusines the fur hat, usually matching and
or silver.
lous terr
circlet worn
larger shapes, upturned and seeking inspiration in antique open necks of suits and c through shiny satin and leathers, to ganzes and veilings. side-swept brims. Many are jewellery, using burnished obviously made to snuggle in- darkened gold
the circlet, and the muff, some-Veilings are not appended ornamente, but make the entire in curved and
worn as a single cuft hat. side large fur collars.
elaborate forms. The chatelaine, times that greecful swing of chain Instead of conventional furs, these pieces are liked In striking with an ornamental fob, is seen with suits and as a fastener for contrast furs such as ermine, sweaters when
the ocelot, lynx and kit fox. shoulders.
ANTIQUE JEWELLERY
“Jet
worn on
THE changing shapes.of Tushion are leading to
The drop earring is largely replacing the button for day- some changes in accessories, time wear. It is used because notably in the revival of hats are small, one-sided and little furs and the trend to head hugging, hair is shorter, and large coliars come up antique jewellery.
around but away from the face.
As long as clothes remained within the straight and narrow, and colour dominated size Jewellery, and the rope or bib of to be generous, and you
bellliantly coloured hearls bus may well be the lucky re-
Colours in the collections tead been the single most prominent cipient.
to dramatie combinations of accemory for several seasons. YOUR BIRTHDAY: If this black with while or green,
red But clothes are going into and fuschla is your birthday you should peony pink
with emerald and dr curves, requiring jewellery that Enve very little to
worry green, peacock and dark tur- looks more designed. less as if about in the way
things qualse
In a minority are the it had been strung together by develop during the coming paler shades: camel, greenish or some indiens with primitive art year.
almond
steel grey.
talent.
CHILDREN'S CORNER
Learning The Alphabet
Teddy, The Stuffed Bear, Can't Remember It-
By MAX TRELL
superior at work will im-THERE'S one thing I'd love
통하고 몸을 했다.
no use trying to hide it, young man,"
"You'd better tell us," cald
to know," Teddy, the Mary-Jane, prove your chances of early stufted Bear, saying to promotion.
everyone in the Playroom, "but
CANCER (June 22-July 21): I just can't remember 11."
fivened by an
And poor lie Mary Jane with
the shocbutton eyes and
The weekend may be en- Teddy was sitting on top of the painted smile on her rag-
amusing the big chair in the middle flirtation which will not necessarily commit you to future meetings.
LEO
the Playroom.
of Redy face, aid, "Please tell us, Teddy We'll do anything th help you. Won't wa" the zold, turning to everyone in the room, Everyone said they would.
He didn't any ali this in
Rochow very loud voice, but
(July 22-August 21):or other everyone in the Play-
Sot up straight_ Resist the temptation to be room fell silent, perhaps because aftort-tempered with a per there was a kind of sadness in
By this time, Teddy had set ke someone himself up straight again and son who seems to delight in Teddy's voice
asking for something he knew taken his arm away from in provoking you.
he couldn't ever get. VIRGO (August 22- Suptember 22): Clear up a misunderstanding as quick- ly as possible in order pave the way for a natie Almut Nanies, and Mr Punch of silence, Then everyone burst factory business arrange- and his wife Judy and Miss into laughter.
ment,
LIBRA (September
October
Everybody looked
front of his face,
"I don't know
АНСЯ my and that's what I'd like to Knarf and Hanld, the Shadow know," he said. to Children with the Turned- Again there was a moment
Gloria, the beautiful China
"Teddy doesn't know his AB 23- Doll, and Mary-Jane, the plain 22) Contact &tle Rag Doll, and General Tin, Ce," they all shouted,
Win Tin Soldier, who
Teddy didn't tow whether
person who has been help-the ful to you in the past, and standing on guard by the door, to laugh or cry,
and iawatha, the Small-Stac "I shouldn't have told you,” from whom new advantages Wooden indian, who was sitting he kept mying. "You're n
may well be obtained.
on the floor in the corner of the making fun of me"
SCORPIO (October 23-. [room, with his blanket over his
head-every one of them looked
November 21): A business at Teddy. They all wanted to associate may prove dif-help him. ficult, and you would be ad-
Poem to remember
714
"HYO'LI do anything to help yOIL." Mary-Jane told Teddy,
C is for Can't,
D is for Darc,
Et for Ealing.
F is for Fat,
G is for Greeting,
His for Hat,
I is for I,
Jis for Jill,
Kin for Kit,
1 for L
M is for Mover,
H is for Nalia,
Ols for Over,
Pls for Palls,
Qle for Qualis,
And I is for Bulle, And S is for Enalia,
And T is for Trails,
Uls for Under,
V is for Vex,
of
W is a Wonder,
visert to lonvo further Finally Hand enld, "Teddy, king to teach you your ABCA, discussions over until noxtdenr, what is this thing wook. BAGITTARIUS
X junt X
The last two ato easy!
One Is Y
The ofiter in Z-ZI
"We're not making fun you at all," saki Kaart. "We're
that aren't we?" you'd love to know?"
"Yes," mld everybody. Tuy "Yes," Bald (November the room. "what is it?"
everyone elso In put their heads together.
"There, you are, Teddy," zald 22-December 21): If you
"Toddy," said Hánid, "all you Mr Pund, "All you have to do and anticipate a quarrol with a
have to do is to remember this is to memorise this poem
yu'll know your ADC," jen."
that Hanid This is the pesm
Teddy's athomed
And the next part of the
relative thin weekend, do Then, suddenly, Teddy looked your utmost to avoid a very named. te put his arm and the others bought up to moeting
in front of his face trying to hip Toddy to remember his day, Teddy sat in a chair re-
KAPRÍČÓRN (December 22- January 20): A prosperous relative may have an urge
hide his head in the seat of the Ance: chair.
"Now, now," saki Mr Punchi, drying to sound stern, "there's
A is on Any
BA Book,
clting alphabet reim ovet and over again. But whether he learned the siphabet or not u anyone guers,
Paris shoes show iittie change, since the square toe is now
a firmly established shape, instead of a beginner
as in New York. The rapler -
Patou also believes in colour for hats. Since most Women choose autumn clothes for daytime in basic colours Poton believes they need the colour accent to brighten the costume and flutter the complexion.
Poppy red, gladiola pink, periwinkle blue, autumn toe is unsuitable for curved foliage colours, brass and bronze make up the "Paton col- clothes, while the soft, slipper lection. Gold and silver frequently sparkle among the type shoe, gracefully tapered colours. Black appeurs only with white, in a bold hounds- until is toe suddenly squares
tooth check.
off, looks right.
Bronze aki
also grey are
The antique Interest has brought much interest In jet, whose polished and faceted the softened more subtle colour black can look so elegant with palette which is accompanying the curved clothes silhouette uth day und evening clothes. After seasons of brightly into fashion.
For day car Patou likes the small hat, a tilted favourite shoe colours, replacing bandeau with an attached head scarf to be tied under the black or tan as winter neutrals.chin. Textured jersey may make the hat, with the hood Accessories, in general, reflect in solid colour jersey. Another combination is fur, such as civet cat, combined with poppy ret jersoy for the hood.
Patou The beret promises to be another success. versions are worn either at the back of the head, or tilted to one side. Stitched, small and neat, they appear even in late-day satin, trimmed with an outside flower. For day they are a little larger, made of every imaginable
JACOBY on BRIDGE fabric and fur.
SOUTH'S spade overcail
is
very sound. When his part- ner rules him to two spades, South is justified in inviting game by his bid of three. Need- less to say, North accepts the game invitation.
South Lakes the first heart lead with dummy's ace. There
is no point holding cft, Also there is no point in postponing the club finesse, He needs to take it twice and should try it right away.
When the queen of clubs holds, South is certain of his contract. He also es a chance for an overtrick it everything goes well.
♥*CARD SerisBCC,
Q-The bidding has been: North
South West
24
14
East
Pask
Pac
Double Роля
You, South, hold: ARDO3 43 4152 4842
What do you do?
A-Bid two spades 'only, In spite of syur king of spades you have a horrible hand.
TODAY'S QUESTION. West and North pass and East bida three hearts, What do you do now?
Answer
Tomorrow
15
EAST (D) ATX
KJ743 +AKS 4582
NORTH
ABC% ❤A82
$10954
WEST 4234
995 Q9652 4703
SOUTH AEQJUS
100
+1072
4AQJ
North
Esat 1❤ Pass
I A
Pass
Pis
and South valserable
South West North
Za
FAR
PAM
Opening lead—▼ B
He starts that play by cash- ing one of his high trumpa and then leading the ale of spades (not the Ave) to dummy's ace,
Since both opponents follow to this second trump, he has no more trump worries. He takes another club nesse and enshes his oct. This drops East'a icing. Now South overtakes his Ave of spades with duramy's'eight, discards his remaining beart on tire lost, club and conceden two diamond tricks.
Rupert and the Secret Path-33
When the stranger is far enough
⚫ scrap of paper hero. I didn't sway Bingo hurries to the ruined know it was inportent until the bukling
**You knew he was
'schoolmaster was no excited about bare? says Rupert, Was that your piece. I wcexwed it up and why today 4ked me to join you
threw it away somewhere. I can't "No, not slogather," remember where.** ** There's a bit matters Bingo. knew zonson here ** calla Rupert, “Would that
·had been here because I too found be it? **
ALL RIGHTË BALLREAD.
Large hate in the Patou collection have their brima turned up, often alanted, or rippled. Hounds-tooth check trimmed with stiff grosgrain ribbon givca one model a dashing tailored air. The same check is used as facing for a brass-coloured velours hat and for its narrow crown band.
Patou believes in the plamorous late day hat, which has always been worn by Parisian women. Bonnets and turbans are his favourites for this autumn, in draped gauze, lame or velvet. There is a pink and gold lama version of maid's cap, blue and silver gauze turban and a large halo of black veiling.
SIT DOWN AND HAVE YOUR DINNER!
BUT I'M NOT HUNGRY MUMMY
DO YOU HAVE THIS PROBLEM ? GIVE YOUR CHILD
!
PALADAC
THE TRUE ORANGE FLAVOURED VITAMIN PRODUCT WHICH INCREASES YOUR CHILD'S, APPETITE.
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