Following Bohan
a
THE CHINA MAIL, THURSDAY, MARCH 16, 1961.
WOMANSENSE
FASHION
name to watch at
THE young man pic-
tured on the right has considerable reason for looking pleased with life: recently he pulled off a pleasant success in his first crack at a new job: he has taken over where Marc Bohan left off
designing the wholesale collection for Dior-London: and we all know where Marc Bohan went from there.
بعد
it-s The name-remember
he is 30 Philippe Guibourge: years old, and has worked for 10 years in fashion; spending five years Arst with Jacques
whom he has Fath, for terrine admiration, and who, he says very simply. laught him everything about fashion.
Hard work
J
FTER that, he worked four A years with Lanvin-Castillo, and when Mare 13oban, who is
Was a personal friend, pointed Dior's new designer, Philippe Guibourge
his top assistant.
-
to become
hap meant
For Philippe non stop hard work since Nov- ember; he worked very closely on the Paris collection with Mare Bohan, and the very next day when the rest of the team work on the London wholesale collapsed quietly--had to show.
start
This gruelling round wil continues in future he will have 10 design four collections A
year, as well as working on the two Paris ones with Mare.
No clues
ONE question
interests me considerably. When Marc the London Bohan designed wholesale collections for Dior, legs inde- he worked more or pendently, and the first show of each season-put on long be- show-never fore the Paris gave away any vital clues.
Philippe Guibourge Is not. only on the same wavelength s Mare Bohan; he will also work with han in the principal Paris collections; in consequence, will be difficult for him NOT to give London a most interesting of the next collec- foretaste
them coming up.
it
I wait his with curiosity.
seconl
how
The Baroness says money spoils her dress sense!
I
SPENT an hallucinating
half-hour
wock last talking to a very beautiful Woman ahout her very beautiful wardrobe,
She is Baroness Thyssen-
Tillan-haired ex-model, Fiona Campbell-Walter.
For a short trip to London, har wardrobe included two de- lectable Chanel evening
hats, one I particularly love, a simple Nefertiti shape in white organdie."
ENVIOUS...?
Alled with a
surge of the
FOR any woman reading this uld pea-green, 1 can, however, offer a ray of consolation.
"I was much better dressed when I was suits
a working-girl," said Baroness Thyssen,
in glittering tare; three more for day, in brani turquoise and white check, thick lug tweed and "my dreariest one" a crisp navy jub with gilt buttons that looked singularly undreary to me.
and PLUS a Balmain coat
gold dress in glorious black, and orange brocade, fur collared,
AND one of those wickedly simpic Balmain dresses. in pine-green velvet.
cuntains
Her wardrobe also sults from Balenciaga ("I go to him for smart sulls"),
and
Dior with Givenchy and Lan
alt weighed vin-Castillo have
in.
"No, I have no idea how many clothes I have-but my husband makes me give some- thing away every time I quire something."
Ac-
Purchased on this trip: lots of pairs of Charles Jourdan shoes
and two hats designed by Peter Shepherd.
rmly.
"I didn't have too much money to spend, I had to think hard before I bought anything. and my wardrobe was planned right the way through.
chocsing "Now I'm always things in rush and I some times make ghastly mistakes,"
Lundon Express Service).
Dior
PICTURE BY VIC BINGH.
One of the prettiest drosses designed by Philippe Guibourgé for the London Dior wholesale collection-a supple blousing bodice, over a gentle downwards drift of skirt in a translucent print of pinks and whites and pale lilac on chiffon.
-(London Express Sarelca).
CHILDREN'S CORNER
Is Purr-Purr Guilty?
-Hanid Hears Both Sides Of The Story
By MAX TRELL
"Tweet, tweet, tweet," Enrico.
said
1 wasn't until Hamid placed "NOW REALLY, Purr-Purr," said Hanid, the Shadow Girl the magic talking-ribbon around "didn't know such a mar-with the Turned-About Name, the Canary's neck that she un- vellous milliner existed in this to the black Kitten, "you prom- derstood what he meant. Country: he has made me two Ised to behave yourself and you
FROM PARIS
LOOK FOR-
Smoother, smaller coiffures,
without gently rounded, but curls or waves, boyishly short in back, with flat cheek curls.
•
•
•
Revival of crepe, in woot with
satin back, in silk, both new supple light weight,
all over Paris for dresses.
•
becoming
haven't done so at all!"
Purr-Purr Hanid had taken In her inp. She now shook her finger in front of the Kitten's
nose.
Naughty kitten
"You're a naughty little Cat," she said.
Purr-Purr looked up ni Hanid and said nothing.
Then Hanid remembered about the magic talking-ribbon. She now hung this around Purr- Purr's neck.
Not telling truth
It turned out that he meant the telling Purr-Porr wasn't truth at all.
"She tried to put her paw in morning." my eage Just this sold Enrico.
"I was only trying to be po- lite." said Purr-Purr. "I want- ed to shake his hand. What's wrong with that
Immediately Purr-Purr began to speak English.
"What did I do now?" she You asked Hanid.
#1-29
"ho tried to put her paw in my cage," Cuonry told Hanid
"Glub, glub. glub." answered Alphonse and Suzanne.
Hank dipped the magie talk- ing-ribbon into the water of the aquarium. Then she understood plainly what Alphonse and Su- zarne were saying.
Philippo Guibourg&
His teacher
Was
Jacques Fath
WHEN IT COMES TO SHOES DOES FASHION MAKE SENSE?
NO
says Chapman Pincher
A who
T last here is a woman agrees with me thot the way most womon
merelal whims of the designers.
fashion
No wonder that Dr Emslie writes in the medlen Press: more "Women are becoming and more the victims of a relentless order which condemns them to wear shoes of constantly
in which varying design
the drive is not the preservation of foot form."
Yet all they have to do to escape being victims of this or- der is to refuse to buy the next monstrosity.
Eloquent
RISE OF THE 'BANGER'
by Jane Rogers
WHAT is the smartest thing to serve at a dinner-party right now, in London?
Sausagos.
The humble 'banger' is at the top of the menu at all the smart parties, all because of the wave of inverted snobbery sweeping London's society set. It is no longer considered smart to have slaved, even metophorically, over a hot stove all day. The most chic meals must look as though you have thrown them together at the last minute, hence the popularity of the sausage.
It is never served straight, of are immersed up to their waist- course, that would be going too lines. Half an hour in a warın far. First of all it often turns oven and the sausages have up in an Anglicised version of soaked up all the liquid and are
sizzled the classic French dish Cassou- gently
to Π
golden let. The sausages £re cul into brown. Another top party dish bite-sized chunks and simunered In sausage-en-a-stick, cooked for an hour in an Iron pot Kebab-style with allees of appla together with a few handfuls and onion. of haricot beans and some chop- Cooked sausage which has ped pork laced with plenty of been hired makes cheap,
addition garlic. Another version of this meaty
10 B
hurs dish is the American 'Boston d'oeuvre if it is mixed with es
which Baked Beans'
ong of crudities'—chunks of raw caull- London's top hostesses, Fleur flower, cormat and celery which Cowies, invariably serves to her have been dipped In seasoned guests.
salad dressing.
Kebab-style
the
The sausage appears on scene again at buffet parties, cooked in country cider, This time the sausages are put hilo a shallow baking dish and elder is poured over them until they
What does a traditional Eng- lish
Teally sausoge
contain? Bread, alas, in certain quanti- ties ut finely chopped pork meat and seasoning too.
"We don't waste anylbing." told mo sausage firm proudly. "We aim to use every part of the pig bul Its squeak."
one
LADYLUCK
YOUR CHINA MAIL HOROSCOPE
cripple themselves in stupid IF I comment on the medical shoes
"'in to be
the and aesthetic objections to at A cocktail fashion" is near-cortifiable winkle-plckers
party. women invariably claim behaviour.
they have never worn such com- Dr Margaret Emslie, in a fortable shoes, medical article, castigates teena- Yet they silp them off under Kers and grown women who the first available table and progressively ruin their feet by now cannot get rid of them wearing
(5) and quickly enough when fashion stiletto heels.
experts declare they are on the Women's feet plodding along way out. with such obvious dificulty in One sees a few men of doubt- great needle-nosed barges, have ful maturity wearing winkle- never looked so ugly in my life-
Lime
winkle - pickers
pickers,
But in general there could be Poised on dagger-point heels no more cloquent demonstration designed to provide the maxi- of man's mental superiority (hau
walking and his consistent resistance to being mum Instability de maximum damage to floors, driven into foot discomfort they teeter along. advertising conform with the directives of their enslavement to the com- fashion dictators.
to
And the other point of view...
YES
Jill says Butterfield
"R
| 66 | IDICULOUS." When-
ever you hear
man say that word with half-raised eyebrow and silly-little-woman notc
D
in
his voice, you con but your life he's tolking about fashion.
of a
stand that we prefer elegance to comfort.
Personally, I couldn't care less About getting metatarsalgia, clawing, callusities, or ever common or garden hammer (oe. But actually, according the experts, I won't get them any- way. For my new shoes are absolutely right by all the old medical standards.
The pair I am wearing today are the newest thing in Paris.
They are oval in shape (room to wiggle the toes in), with a two-inch heel.
I'll bet
DUT I am willing to wager D that within days some car-
caricature toonist will
will Боте schoolmaster them, and
some medical
them, ban
man
Adam rolled against Eve's fig will discover they give me the leaf, Cromwell costigated the worst kind of hallux valgus the chiropodists' cleavage, and even Victoria and complex in Albert had, a bit
tussic book. For, according to men, about the bustle.
there is always something wrong But I never expected to hear with womens shoes. the
Mr Chapman word from Pincher. For Mr Pincher knows All About Nature.
He knows about World Affairs. About the quickest way to get to the moon or have a baby.
But he does not know about
women.
He Ands it hard to
under
And whatever we. do on the is considered by fashion front men to be foolish.
But here's one foot nole to set the scoffers thinking.
The greatest proportion of fool ointment, corn plasters, medl-. cated powders, and bunion balms are sold-to men.
FOOTNOTE ON THE LATEST STYLES......
FOR MEN
her paw
Again Janid gave. Parr-Purr sharp look. "How can you shake hands somebody who has no with hands? Enrico only has wings, hands with can't shake
What they said somebody who has wings. And, Hani neted to the "Do I have to tell you?" besides,"
"Furr-Purr stuck with asked Honit. "You know very Kitten, "you haven't got hands, down into the water and tried
either." used well!"
to catch us!" "She was trying to grab me,"
Hank turned to Purr-Purr. said Enrico. "That's
I think, too,"
"What do you say to that, nald Hanid.
you naughty Kitten?" she ask Anally Purr-Purr
admitted
ed. that perhaps she wasn't exactly trying to shake hands with the Canary-perhaps she was try- ing to pull him out of his cage
Sho's been good
Buttons
even "I've been good," said Purr- WOUCT,
simulating jewellery | Purr. "I haven't done a single
thing wrong.” with relief motifs, in gilt with
Hanid gave Purr-Pure a sharp pastel stones, in horn, wood or bamboo.
you haven't
·
End of the pointed-toe era in shoes, with the slender, fial, squared-off lee at Roger Vivier, the thicker heels at Mancini.
Large and rich fur range, with pastel tones preferred, new fure like otter, Afghan JUTE, Creamy and sand-colour broadtall.
Clans, glittering, dull ham- mered, or painted, seen every. where In accessories, as heck- Lapee.
bells and bag handles, butions.
Furr-
look.
"Are
you sure
wrong, done anything Purr?" she asked.
"Not a single thing, not a single thing," said Purs-Purr
"We'll just see about flint," said Hanid.
Hanging from a bracket over- he was the cage in which Enrico Canary lived and sang.
Swinging on porch
At this moment, Enrico was gently on a "wooden swinging perch inside his coge. Hinnid called up:
"Purt- "Enrico," she said,
do any Purr sald she didn't thing wrong. Is she telling tho truth?"
what
and cat him.
"That's the only wrong thing I did." Purr-Purr insisted. “And. anyway, I really didn't do it
"You did something else," said Hanid.
"I didn't," anid Purt-Purc
Goldfish in aquarium
"I wasn't fishing for them at ail," said Purr-Purr. "I was just wetting my hand to wash my
face."
Hard to know
"Oh dear," said Hanid, "it's hard to know whether you're telling the truth
not, or whether Alphonse and Suzanne and Enrico are telling the truth, either."
or
On the other aide of the room So instead of punishing nay stood the aquarium where Al- body, Inuld gave Alphonse and of food, and phonse and Suzanne, the two Suzanne a pinch Goldfish, swim around In a gavo Enrico a snippet of fresh carrot, and gave Purr-Purr a garden-like bome.
kaucer of fee creara.
Hanid called over to thern
"Alphonsel Suzannel
Tell
me, my dears was Purr-Purr naughty today?"
"I'm sure you're a naughty Kitten, but I love you just the same," Hanld said,
FOR WOMEN -London Express Sarvice).
Rupert and the Paper-fall-2
Mr. Bear looks carefully at ile These are lists of names papers. and addresses in other villages."! he says. "Here's Robin Dow and Daisyham-and Little Winking and Punyville. There doesn' scem to be a list for Nutwood. How did they arrive? Did the wind blow them ? Or did an
airplane drop them?" didn't hear a plane and there was no wind at all," replies Rupert." Then Mrs. Bear interrupts." Come along. It's bath time," she says. and taken Rupert off to the_bath. rontti Even in his bath, Rupert can't stop wondering about the mystery,
ALL DIGUTE RELENYED
to
THURSDAY, MARCH 16
(8) AQUARIUS
(January VIRGO
(August 22- 21-February 19): A sodden September 22): A small in- decision on the part of formal party tonight will your partner will prove of prove a great success, and considerable benefit
you sho'd arrange for fur- both of you.
ther n. etings with tho same people. (February 20- PISCES (2)
March 20): An important LIBRA (33) (September 23- October 22): If you can persuada a friend to alter his hostile attitude towards a member of your family, you will feel much happier your association with him. SCORPIO (10) (October 23-
November
person
must not be kept waiting tedny, And you should make due allowance for all possible delays. ARIES (11) (March 21-April 19): Re careful not to involve yourself in a pro- tracted legal action. Use to all means short of it eure the situation. TAURUS (9) (April 20-May 20): Suppress your ng- gressive attitude towards temporary obstacles; try to avoid them instead of meeting them head on. GEMINI (7) (May 21-June 21): Your recent optimistic mood will be shown to have been fully justified.
|CANCER (4) (June 22-July. 21) Jealousy will warp your point of view and cloud your judgement. Fight it, no matter how Justined you may think it is. LEO (8) (July 22-August 21) Satisfy yourself that an unusual plan you have in mind will under no cir- cumstaces threaten your present security.
ת!
21): Your strength of character will help you patch
and
over
4 di cult ensure success after a short period of frustration. SAGITTARIUS
(12) (No- vember 22-December 21): A person born under Taurus will be greatly at- tracted to you, but to his regret you will not be able to reciprocate his feelings. CAPRICORN (1) (December 22-January 20): A surprise you have been planning in connection with a forth- coming birthday will be an unqualified success.
YOUR
to
LUCKY NUMBER: Count the letters in your first name and add the total the number shown in brackets after your sign of the Zodic. This is your lucky number for today.
JACOBY on BRIDGE
ONE of the most interesting
chapters in the Fry hoolt discusses
and means to waya lose with any partner. In other words, he points out habits to avold and one of the worst habits is the trap bid.
South's four spade bid is o perfect example of the trap bitt. South hind a rotinu over- call of East's opening heart bld. West bid two hearts; North two spades; and East three hearts.
At this point South decided to pass. Perhaps his reason was he did not want to push the opponents into four hearts; per- haps he forgot that it was his turn to bid. Anyway, he pass- ed and no did West.
WEST 476
QIDS 475 AKJ004
NORTH
31
• K 2003 102
• KQ 1084 75
EAST (D) A 13
AKIBA +03
AQ 108
SOUTH MAQJIA
❤70
◆ AJBO
32
No one vulnerable
East
Bouth West
North
I ♥
14 2❤
ZA
Now North decided to go to
3❤
Pass
Рок
three
three
spades. He felt that his spade call would close
Pack
44 PALS
Pass
Рава
the bidding.
No
one would
Opening lead--♥ Q
V+CARD Serwoke
Fash Bouth Wcat Pets 14
Q-The bidding has been
North
*♥
3. dhe
Pasa
Paus PRES
Pass
You, South, hold:
AKIES WIN $A9745 43
What do you do? A-Bla thren no-drung. Xow aro not afraid of olihér a Mầm mand or spado lead,
TOTAT'S QUESTION Your partner has jumped to four hearts over your fix of three diamonds. What do yo do in this instance?
Answer "TongsTYW
double; no one would bid four hearts; his partner would el- ther go down one or make the contract.
North's reasoning was per- fect. As you can see East and West can make exactly three hearts and North and South exactly three spades. But, un- fortunately for North, South was there to spring the trap. South bld four spades.
but
the
Nothing very bed happened. South went down one trick in- stead of making a nico part score,
point is that helpless. He had to luga no matter what ha did,
North had been