THE CHINA MAIL, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 1961.

WOMANSENSE

YOUTHFUL

LINES

IN the infinite variety and variations of the fashion world there is scope for the designer with years of accumulated experience and for the newcomer with initiative and ideas. Today young designers are helping to change the face of fashion.

In London many new styles begin la Belgravia" and Chelsea rather then in Mayfair. They attraet the "mart young set" who are ready to adopt extreme lines whße avolding" "beatnik" modes.

.

by JEAN WISEMAN

An elegant dealgner is Belinda

Miss Bellville belleves in probably make elegant dress- Bellville, who has tackled al- making fabrics work-using, for and-jacket teams for "anyone most every aspect of fashion. example, an almost transparent from 18 to 45". including writing and photo- navy wool with novelty white graphy. She began her design check, and plealing the skirt so ing career by concentrating on that each pleat is white striped, debutantas but now his clientele which includes such Oyer in Chelsea, Kiki Byrne International names as Elizabeth has established a reputation for Arden. Her ellents ke her hor amart Chelsea look. She flair for shape and fine, her use designs and manufactures models of outstandig wool fabrics, her for her own shop. lack of fusstriess.

Mrs Byrne says: "Sophisticated but simple clothes suit a wide age group, 'Gimmicky clothes are only worthwhile if they are cheap and can be discarded quickly."

Accurately

She is usually a year or so ahead of the trend and has been On lour

featuring long waists and casy-" At bodices for some time. She

Her feat is lo produce in- Twenty-two-year-old Mary has now moved from the "grey divídugi clothes

quality Morrison, chosen as tady-in- flannel" era into brown

and materials ot really economic waiting by the Queen for her mottled belge/brown flannel prices. Her personal touch-like current louir," "solerted ward Skirts have a flared or pleated Belinda Bellville's is untnis- robe from Mist Bellville's look.

inkable in every gannerd, designa, It includes a plik featherweight wool sult with a Because she makes a very Today's young designers have peg top skirt and a short jacket limited number of each design, their fingers accurately on the with cut-on sleeves. Channel Kk Byrne often able to ac pulse of present fashion, es- neaming runs through the quire short lengths of very pecially as it applica young pockets and an overblouse beautiful fabrics. Al present, people and young marrieds, turns the sult into a three-piece, she has on almost transparent They are gulding a new genera- A new "narrow" soft white Scottish wool cloth in off-beat on (as well as many of the wool coat is another Rem In the browns and greens with a fine older) into secking the best both wardrobe.

black check or stripe. It will in fabrics and fashions.

It's sheer LUXURY

from ...and such

Balmain

colour!

From BARBARA GRIGGS

Paris.

AFTER Pierre Cardin's fiery, pace-setting collection, Pierre Balmain's

show was a reversion to the pure classical opulence Vendome

of the Place

like going to Drury Lane after a blistering session at the Royal Court Theatre.

These clothes seemed destined silk with a great hugging cape for same unimaginable life of of white mink? wealth, luxury and splendour-- as, of course, they all are,

I only asked.

Other spectacular sights: a full-length satin cost in peacock green, lined with thick lace

Journalists diverted them; selves during the show by pues encrusted with ribbon embrol ing for which regal client a derle, flung over a full-length particular dress was designed dress.... (Balmain sometimes gives the gamo away with namnes like Fete a Isfaben).

A

LONG COAT

Line js never the most

long full cost of pale Imperant point with Balmain, But once mare there were lean manderin silk lined in dull olive: little suits with classic jackets worn with an evening dress in und very straight skirts. made orange, and oilve silk, to show off the wonderful Jackets are occasionally ampie

Blenderness which gruelling ses slons nt Elizabeth Arden's have given a girl,

SPECTACLE

Almost no black; the collectlon Garg with colour almost all the way through.

onwards

From six o'clock falmain becames pure spectacle

-part from some faintly sober strapless sheath dresses in very fine crepe or chiffon. (If this mania for ne crepe continues something radical will have to be done about the way slockings stay up. Thin crepe throws every totall of the knobbly suspender into high relief),

and loose, slit up at the back. Colour is dazzling.

Bulmaln showed 4 linen redingote in vivid sky-blue over alien sheath in lettuce-green with a tiny sky-blue toque.

Lettuce-green and all the most vivid blues were today's ameing colours, but there were masses of white, raspberry-pink and pale-

pink as well.

Innovation: Д passion for

stripes. A raspberry-pink sleeve

coot

had pale-plik and white spes running up its side, with to be the fabric of the flannel siceve scams which turned out

suit beneath,

Curiosity: a brilliant red wool top scat dolled at random with enormous black danger spots,

TINY HATS

And for high summer he uses the same idea in a peries of dazzling silk prints, orange and yellow silk coat lined with white over a matched sheath and a tiny white flower hat; Jade mixed with blue and violet for another wrapper esat and sheath dress

And so on.

Pretty detalls: removable Bertha-copes in embroidered organdie worn with young ball match....Victorian dresses to gibbons of fine velvet knotted high round the throat.

It was all very, very, very

Balmain,

=(London Express. Service).

KIKI BYRHE

Marinel

BELINDA BELLVILLE 3

Fale Price Henne

White

kiki Ayane

2

-Rad Wret Cloth

bound

white braid

Mark white theek fine

wasted.

Pink White

Mentid mounted

Win

BELINDA BELLVILLE

* fine turoy your!

BELINDA BELLVILLE

TOP LEFT: 1. New fared line with low waistline, casy bodico and cut-on sleeves, In brown or brown and beige flannel. (KIKI DYRNE). 2. A "Chazel type" outfit with new riested skirt in ding black and white checked worsted, red soft wool" blazer, bound with black-wook brald-and white blouse. (KIKI BYRNE).

LADY LUCK

YOUR CHINA MAIL HOROSCOPE ·

MONDAY, FEBRUARY 6

AQUARIUS (January 21- February 19): It may be difficult nt times to live up

to the high reputation you have established for your- self, but it must give you great satisfaction neverthe- Iesa. PISCES (February 20-March 20): By being overcautious you may let a uniquo opportunity go by, and you might take a chance on a small gumble today.

ARIES (March 21-April 19): Preparo yourself for o forthcoming business dia- cusalem by anticipating the pointa likely to be raised

and formulating your re plies. TAURUS (April 20-May 20): Your appreciation of the value of money puts brake on the umount of hospitality you are prepared to give.

no

GEMINI (May 21-June 21):

A

in Authority person may resent baling criticlaud matter how valid the Justification, and you should. weigh your words

very carefully indeed. |CANCER (June 22-July 21):

An exchange of a purchased artlelo may not prove very satisfactory, and you would be well advised to hold on to what you have got. LEO (July 22-August 21): The pleasure which pepple

dorive from your generosity may be marred if you can't resist hinting at the cost of your gift.

VIRGO (August

22-* September 22) Your con- stant search for security will bo strenuous, but in the end bring the desired. results.

LIBRA

(Soptember 23- October 22): If you insist on having too many irons In the fire at the same time, It is inevitable that the quality of nome of your work will suffer. SCORPIO

(October 23- November 21): By asking. an older person to help you with your problem you will find a very sympathetic.ear and experienced guldance. SAGITTARIUS . (November 22-December 21): An un- usual proposition put by a friend may be well worth considering, but if you feel you must reject it, do'no as tactfully as possible. CAPRICORN (December 22- January - 20); The most satlafactory outlets for your artistic endeavours aro those, most directly ex- pressive of life and truth. YOUR BIRTHDAY: If your birthday is this week, you will find a symbol of good fortuno in a gift of an electric torch,

JACOBY on BRIDGE

I was the last board of a long duplicate session and South who happens to be one of our

both really great players was tired and in a hurry to get the hand over with.

He won the opening club lead and noted quickly that-

while

three na-trump was a spread, his four-spade contract appeared to be superlor for match point purposes.

NORTH

123

AX1070

❤AKQ2

◆K7.5

WEST 45

30704 +802

EAST

AQUB

103

204

BQJIDS

K8702

SOUTHX (D) -

J432

85

AQIE3

MAS

Both vulnerable

Botila

West, North East

Pesa 24

beneath

1ặ

RIGHT: Open weave belge wool makes an outstanding sult with narrow self- coloured wool braid mounted on wider braid for the neat and firm edgings. (BELINDA BELLVILLE).-

Радз

The bidding has been: North Kast Bouth West Pans 1+ Puss Pass

14 Paza

1 Priss 44

Pass

Pass

Piss

Opening lead—4Q

34

Pass 2

You, South, hold:

LOWER LEFT: Ensemble in new polo blue lightweight flannel. The pleated skirt, tlo collar jacket with seamed sleeves and other features indicate the advanced trends of our young designers. (BELINDA BELLVILLE).

CENTRE: Oult designed for Miss Mary Morrison lady-in-waiting on the current Royal The tour. In finest pink and white wool, the skies is out with a slight peg top effect. collarless Jacket has channel

blouse seaming through the high pockets, The has small cut-on....cap sleeves. (BELINDA BELLVILLE).

STORIES FOR BOYS AND GIRLS

Willy Toad's Story

-He Tells Shadows How He Got A Black Eye--

who'd want to: punch Willy In the eye? Why?!

By MAX TRELL

KNARF, the Shadow Boy with the Turned-About Name, came coat pocket. hurriedly Into the room.

Knart put his hand in his "All right, Willy," he said.. He sat himself down by his "Tell her yourself. Come on out sister Hanld who, as it hap- and tell her.” pened, was drawing a picture of a Toad.

"Now that's a said Knars.

funny thing."

At that much to Hanid's as tonishment, Willy Toad hopped out of Knart's coat pocket. He had a black eye,

Hanid caught him in her hand, She held him up and looked at him.

"And there, under a shady tree, I discovered just what was looking for!"

I

Hanid, spid "Why, Willy," surprised, "were you looking for something?"

"Of course! You don't think

I hopped all the way across the park just for no reason at all!”

Ordered him off

"But I thought it was to ad- miro the sunshine and to smell the flowers and to catch Flies" said Hanlu.

Willy shook his head,

1-6

Squirrel wanted Willy to get off the toadstool,

The grandest evening en- sembles were all called Fete a Londres I'm happy tu say. being one of the simplest as well

Hats were minute and side- es one of the prettiest a long, tited. But nl:si I can't see them narrow sheath in crinkly pink looking good with anything but

Almost finished

"Hurry up and finish your allk with a wide deep sleeve a very neat chignon, And most

story, Willy," urged Knorf. Jacket in the same pink.

of us lost these extra inches of "What 197"

"Yes," said Willy, "1 found Kanid asked, Fate imprevue — Unexpected hair long ago.

just what I was looking for - looking up quickly, then look- Party-shows the sort of clients Balmain's top

a toadstool. It was growing right coats were Ing down at the picture ahe Balmain is designing for.

"Somebody did punch you." under that shady tres. So what get off and when I shouted delicious-loose, short and deeper was drawing. It was nearly fn- she said to

Willy.

"Who was did I do? I hopped right on top and yelled and screamed back If a chum rings you up end sleeves, ample; often rilt up to Ished, all except one eye.

11?" says "Fling on something pretly, the waist at the back. In china-

of the toadstool and sat there. that I wouldn't do any "Well," said Willy, we're all off to the Milroy, could blue shantung, over a cowl-necks

"I don't For what is a toadstool for if not thing, he just stood up on his bushy tail and hit me square you dig into your awardrobe and two-piece in the mame beautifulture you're drawing. I just met like to mention names, I don't for a Toad to sit on?"

in the eyel" like being a tattletale. It was whom?" A fellow with a bushy tail who lives up in a tree in the park. e diga for nuts. Figure it out for yourself."

hope to find a stunning ankle- blue, with a tiny toque lo match, length sheath in white ribbed for instance,

Rupert and the Winter Sale-4

Mr. Bear, strides onward in very determined way to reach the bus stop. Look what for of others are coming here,” saya Rupert." Why am all the ladiča of the village catching this but, 'Mummy2"**"** i expect they all chave the_num_idea an 1- have,"

rawers Mrs. Beat, "And just

what is that ?" aska Rupert, But- at that moment the bus rumbles up and they all crowd in, talking brightly. Still we go together? says Mr. Badger. **We might help each other?" " No, we might fight over something we want")" laugha för. Bear.” And Rupen la more mystified than ever. ALL RITUTE, REIKAYUR :

"Well," and Knarf, "that plc-

Met

kim."

"Met him? asked Hanid.

"Willy Toad. That's a pleture of Willy, isn't I?" Knarf asked

The other eye

"A

Willy's story Squirrell"

"I have to finish drawing his other, oye," she said as she laid "Why did he do it?" Hand the picture down flat again and asked.

started to make curved lines with her pencil around

"I don't see how that got you a black eye," said Hanid.

"Go ihead, Willy," urged Knart again.

"Suddenly," said Willy, "as I

such

"Oh my! And what happened next?" asked Konid worriedly.

Dug up chestnut

"I rolled over the ground hold-.

Yes, I suppose It could be,"

was Bitting on my toadstool, ing my hand over my hit eye. Hanid smiled. She held the pic- ture a little away from her face

exclaimed down came that fellow with the But with the other eye," sald me to Willy. "I saw Bushy-Tail push and studied it for a second or Hunid. "A Squirrel punched you bushy tall. He ordered

get off that toadstool! But I over my beautiful toadstool and two,Yes, it could be a picture in the eye!"

start digging under it as fast as of Willy Toad.

Willy didn't say "Yes" and he didn't move,

"I looked him straight in the he could. didn't say "No." He just sat eye and asked him what busl still in the middle of Hanid's nces It was of his to order me, up? I saw him dig up a big, "And what did I see him dig hand;

a Toad, to get off a toadstool brown chestnut.

Shouted and screamed

"You see," said Willy, "hol had buried that chestnut under) "He had no right to make the toadstool even bofore the! you get off, Willy," agreed toadstool had even been there. "It happened this morning. X He said I was sitting right "Toadstools grow in the rain. But Kadri put ħla hand on was hopping across the park, up on top of his dinner, And I said. It had just grown up that very her wrist and stopped her the bills and down' the valleys, I wasn't sitting right on top of morning. But Bushy-Tall should

"You're doing it wrong, and

pig, his dinner at pil. Anyons could have told mo. I wish he had. Kasef. "Willy's got a black "Every how, and then I stop, see I was only sitting on top Then I wouldn't have this black eye."

pe to admire the munshine, or of a toadstool and nobody, eye” to smell a flower, or to cafols especially follows with "bushy Poor Willy But you wouldn't "It don't believe it," said a Fly. Then on went again, fails. ayer ate load louts for have had sour story, other, Hanta. "Willy wouldn't let anys hopping up and down unli - their dinner, a BRAND said. Harid body punch him in the eye. He's nally reached, the other side. So this time he shouted and And that made Willy feel betw

got more sense. And anyway, of the lako,

yelled and screamed for me to ter (at (once)-

Willy took a deep breath. the Then he began:

Tempty spot where Willy's other

eya had to be,

Hantd.

Then he ran out dummy's nce, king and queen of hearts. East put the eight spot of spades on the queen of hearts and South overruffed with the jack.

CARD Senseks

432 A76 4K3876545

What do you do?

A Your best bid is to jump to five diamonds. This will certainly get your partner to move to the Bam if he likes his hand. With a conservative parizer you might táko full charge and ask for aces with a four no-trump bid.

Now South had to lose thres

trump tricks and a club and was

down one.

"Tough luck, partner!" 'mur- mured North.

"Tough luck, nothing!" said South, "I chucked the hand,"

Do you see where South went wrong?

If youth had stopped to think. he would have discarded his TODAY'S QUESTION

losing club when Eost ruffed the Instead of bidding three spades queen of hearts, From then on over your three heart bid your all he would need to lose would partner has raised to four hearts. be the ace and queen of trumps What do you do in this caso?

and he would have made his contract.

Answer Tomorrow

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